Ford Y-Block Question...

[HeX]

Looks like I'm buying a 1955 Ford Wagon with a Thunderbird 312 Y-Block...

I have to admit that I don't know ANYTHING about Y-Blocks... The engine is just a lucky coincidence... I've been looking for a wagon for a while (and found this one after the last one that I REALLY wanted ended up being too far and too hard to get)...

Any info or sources to look at for info would be much appreciated...Just trying to learn a bit about the motor and what can be done to hop it up a little (it was recently re-built, thankfully)...

Thanks,

Tim

[286merc]

Sounds like a nice ride. Here are some good links including how to tell if it is REALLY a 312 and not just a sales pitch.
Ask away with any questions here also. Im into Y's as well as several others here.


http://www.ford-y-block.com/yblockpage.htm

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/phpbb2/viewforum.php?f=3

[Rocket Scientist Chris]

One of the best things that can be done to the early Y-block is upgrading its distributor to the later dual advance unit. The '54-'56 Y-blocks used the Load-O-matic distributor that was a vacuum only advance. It was calibrated according to the carburetor used on the engine. Therefore, a 2 bbl engine had a differently calibrated distributor than the 4bbl engine. In '57 (and through '64), the Y-block got the more modern dual advance distributor that we are all familiar with. It has a mechanical advance along with a vacuum advance. Alot of early Y-blocks got carburetor upgrades over the years, but the distributor was ignored. You cannot run a late model carburetor with a Load-O-matic! A Load-O-matic connected to an intake manifold vacuum source like a dual advance distributor will result in WAY too much advance.
When you look at the '55 wagon, check out the carb/distributor combo. A Load-O-matic distributor can be identified by a flat, large diameter vacuum modulator. Some (I think it was the '56) had twin modulators. If the owner is really up on their Y-block knowledge, they will be able to answer the question of what type of distributor and carburetor is actually on the car.
Hope this helps! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

[Deyomatic]

You can get that 1957 dizzy from NAPA for about $50 or so, rebuilt.

On that '55, take a GOOD look at the front crossmember, the one under the radiator. In 54, Ford paid a guy to drill holes in that piece, so water drained from them. In 55-56 there was no such guy, so water would sit in there and eventually rot it out, really bad. The lower control arms are bolted to this crossmember. There is a guy in town here that was telling me about how his father used to have a 55 Ford, and he hit the brakes one day, and the whole front end disintegrated at the intersection.
Long story short, check out that crossmember and if you need to replace it, there is a guy in Hemmings that reproduces them in his garage (in North Carolina, I think) that I'm using on my Fairlane.

It is funny, I've never heard of a Y block that was sold and wasn't "recently rebuilt." Mine was, supposedly, and it leaks alot more than any engine should with a recent rebuild.
I was told, "If it wasn't a Y block, it wouldn't leak."

There are plenty of speed parts available.

There is also a Yahoo Group list for Y blocks.

[286merc]

Good points Chris. And instead of hunting for a late model dizzy and then giving it a rebuild just go down to Advance Auto and buy a new one.
Listed as part # 30-2808 @ $52 with points and condensor. It is the 1965 Ford replacement style with the SBF O ring design, a big improvement over the froze up in block originals!
NAPA carries it also for a bit more $$.

[plan9]

i picked up an HEI conversion kit from pertronix for points distributers... have yet to install it, but the swap looks easy enough and retains the points cap and rotor. anyone ever used this setup?

[Deyomatic]

Plan 9, if this is the Ignitor, it doesn't retain the points or condenser, they give you a magnetic eye and a pickup and it is the easiest mod you could do. Mine shit out in 4 months, but that might have been due to my louvered hood and monsoon season. Either way, I'm back on the points and condenser.

[plan9]

yah deyo, its the ignitor setup... seems like a pretty straightfoward swap. hopefully mine lasts longer than 4 months .. it sure isnt a dirt cheap change