How I fixed my cracked brake drums...

[Deyomatic]

I'm not sure if this will help anyone or not, but I've wanted to test it out for months, since I got these drums from NealinCA. You'll notice in Picture 1 that this drum appears to have been dropped sometime during its life. It didn't harm the braking surface, but I was afraid it would throw the balance off, if I ever use them again.

[Deyomatic]

First, I cleaned up the cracked spots with a wire wheel on my grinder.
I took a piece of aluminum bar stock, 1/16" thick and cut it to a little less than the circumference of the rim. I stuck a couple of nuts into the groove with them to hold the bar tight against the cracks.

[Deyomatic]

From there, I just pulsed the ridge with the welder. I didn't know how easily the aluminum would melt, so that is why I pulsed. When I realized that it wasn't going to melt, I started doing 3" beads. I filled it right up, sort of above the surfaces of the drum. The aluminum took some pyring with a screwdriver to break it loose, but it came out easily after that.

[Deyomatic]

The last step was to grind it flat on both planes. It looks kind of porous on the inside of it, where the aluminum was, but it should be a bit more balanced now. I don't know if I'll ever use it, but if so, we'll see if it holds up to the heat.
If I don't use it, it'll at least make a nice looking stand for an end table or something!

[briggs&strattonChev]

hey good job that was a sweet idea with the aluminum

[Radshit]

Great job.......I have one I need to fix on a 9 inch rear...Thanks!

[gettingreasy]

Purdy damn cool, you got bored huh? You ought to just run it for a couple days the take it back off and check for cracks(from the heating up, cooling down).
-Jesse

[Deyomatic]

That 1/16" aluminum was REALLY flexible. I should have snapped a pic to show how much it melted (or didn't melt), but I forgot.

Jesse, Bored isn't really the word for it. I think I'm addicted to my new toy. I'm not even joking a little. I've been looking for excuses to plug the welder in and melt stuff together. I did the same thing on a junk Y block head that I had, today. The corner lip of the head that the valve cover would sit on was also broken off similar to these. I didn't need the aluminum "mold" on that one, I just built it up and nocked it down.
No pics of that, though.

[gettingreasy]

I guess welding is good to be addicted to, I still need to kick my smack habit http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif .
-Jesse

[Harrison]

Smart idea. Sure beats the J-B Weld trick I was threatening to use on my broken drum.

I'll have to give this a shot.

JH

[Spitfire1776]

What irony I spent last night welding up a drum for my fairlane. Outside edge split away at one part.

Should handle up to the heat.

Good idea with the aluminum.....

[Morrisman]

Have you stuck it in a lathe and spun it up to see how much it distorted yet? I can almost guaran-fuckin-tee it won't be round anymore http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

[Deyomatic]

It is more round than it was! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif If I had a lathe, or planned on using them again soon, I would, but I don't. I think it would be more balanced now than it was in the first picture.

[Spitfire1776]

Mines a little outta balance. But not that bad, I'll live with it. Maybe weld a little counter weight on a negative vector.....

[flt-blk]

Deyo,
What Morrisman means is you probably warped the hell out of
the drum with heat. It may appear round but probably needs
to be turned to true the braking surface.

TZ

[Hellfish]

I don't think that would help mine!

http://tigger.uic.edu/~jwisla1/drums.jpg

15 degrees outside + propane torch + BFH = no more stuck drum!

[Fastsporty]

Hellfish,
I can sypothise with ya man! It's been so cold here at night in L.A. I have to wear a beenie when I go out to the shop at night.! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I am SO glad I moved out of chicago!

[Deyomatic]

Even with just pulsing? I only had the voltage set at "1." The middle bolt hole area never even seemed to get hot, I'm betting they get hotter during use than I got this with the welder.

There's only one way to find out! But like I said, I'm not planning on finding out.

D

[Morrisman]

Deyomatic,
It's not the bolt holes getting warm, it's the 3000+ degrees you've loaded up on one side, filled with molten metal, and let cool down.They certainly don't get to welding temperatures when they're being used, but what they do get is even heating, all the way round.

[Junkyard Dog 32]

They're cast iron, too. Aren't they?
If you used steel wire in a typical MIG welder, that probably isn't a very strong bond. Did you hear any clicking and pinging as it cooled?
Pre-heating the WHOLE drum would help against warpage.
I will say it's a great looking result.

That outside rim is just a dust flange to cover the edge of the backing plate. Another option would be to have that whole flange turned down.

JOEhttp://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[Deyomatic]

Morris, that makes sense.
I didn't think it was cast iron, only because it is light as hell, it did click and the slag sort of jumped off as it cooled, so I guess it is iron.