TOOLS, Top Welding Tips...

[Junkyard Dog 32]

I was out in the shop this morning, working on a busted-up snowplow frame, and thinking about how long I've been doing this, and how easily the simple things come to me. Like the guys who rebuild Stromberg 97s in their sleep, and paint "mile deep" lacquor and flake jobs.
So, I thought I'd jot down a few "simple" things and post 'em here. Hope you guys can get something from these.

JOEhttp://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif



1) GET IT CLEAN... Take off as much grease, rust and paint as you can. It makes for a cleaner, stronger weld, and reduces the amount of crap going into your lungs.

2) CHANGE YOUR COVER PLATE... I can't tell you how many good welders don't realize how bad they weld when they can't see what they're doing. You can get away with cleaning a cover plate a few times, but it becomes scratched, and bends light, making it hard to get a focus on your weld. Saves on headaches, too.

3) TACK EVERYTHING... In my years as a welder, I've violated this rule from time to time, and usually end up cutting things apart. Tack the entire project. Check it over for form, fit and function, THEN weld it off.

4) LEAVE A GAP... Hold a little bit of a gap between pieces. About 1/2 the thickness of the material is my rule. This gives you a nice 100% weld and in cases of thinner material, eliminates the need for beveling.

5) TACK IT CROOKED... Hold the piece you are tacking at a slight angle away from the side you're tacking. When the tack cools, it will pull the piece straight. Also leaving a nice gap, which as mentioned above, is a good thing.

6) NEVER RE-HEAT A TACK... If you are about to weld something with any weight or pressure on it, after you've tacked it, start your weld someplace besides on a tack. Once that tack becomes molten again, it's not holding anything. Start your weld to where it will be cooling at it's tail before you run onto a tack.

7) DON'T WELD TOO COLD... Many people worry about burn-through, so they turn their amperage too low. Speed is the key. Regulate your weld by where it goes and how fast, not by the amperage. In most cases, you can set your machine to weld 3/8" material and rip the knobs off.

8) TRIGGER YOUR WELD... If you're using a wire-feed, you can weld very thin, rusty material if you trigger your welder. I like to leave my wire speed a little high, and each time I "zap", a little ball forms on the end of my wire. Before this ball is cool, I zap again. Keep hitting your own weld, and let it "build" and "flow" onto new thinner material. After you're done, you can go over the weld, again.

9) KEEP YOUR HEAT ON THE HEAVY PIECE... If you're welding a thick peice to a thin one, concentrate your heat on the heavy piece and, either, "whip" onto the thin piece, or in cases of extreme difference, just let the weld push and penatrate into the thin one.

10) NEVER WELD ACROSS A LOAD BEARING MEMBER... Always weld along the length, and NEVER across a stressed member. That weld becomes a breaking point. You'll see what I mean, when you come to it. The traction bar supports on the Graffiti coupe might be in violation of this rule.


If you have more, let's hear 'em.

[Jester]

very cool this would make a great tech post. everybody jump in

[Petejoe]

11. Keep your welding wire and electrodes in a heated box to prevent moisture from getting into the flux and the formation of rust on the surfaces. A bulb in an old microwave or fridge works well.
12. Use a copper or brass backup plate when welding thin material to soak up the heat and give the weld something to rest against.
13. When welding close to painted or chromed surfaces. Use an antisplatter compound or simple vaseline to protect those areas.
14. Remove the battery cables when welding on a vehicle. It just may save your electrical system.
15. If you encounter problems with the weld not going where you intended or excessive splatter because of magnetic or polarized forces, move your ground to an opposite location or liturally wrap the ground wire around the part to be welded.
16. Safety concerns: weld splatter can and will fly and settle in many areas. Be sure that all flamables are far away. Don't weld on or near a gas tank without either removing it or/and filling it with water.

[Nads]

(17) Bondo is a very poor conductor of electricity.
(18) Don't lend any more tools to the asshole who borrowed your welder and brought it back with an empty gas bottle and no wire. Make sure you retain this in your memory to your dying day.

[Junkyard Dog 32]

19) Just because it ain't still red, don't mean it ain't still hot.

[dadseh]

Dont keep welding when you get tired, it becomes so much easier the next day to finish.

You can never have enough clamps for the job.

when using an arc welder on thinner panels try using the 'special' terminal , (less burn throughs)

dont eat yellow snow.

DADSEH

[Barn Yard Chevy]

24) when doing a large amount of (Arc or Mig) welding in one sitting use your gloves, long sleves, a full face shield instead of goggles or you'll get a nice sunburn on any bare skin...Trust me...
but this is comming from a guy who's been know to wear flipflops when welding... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

BYC

[Paul]

use a double aught tip with a small neutral flame with Acc press. at 7 psi and Ox. at 10 psi,
use 1/16" copper coated mild steel rod, get the material clean and the fit perfect before tacking anything.
make a short tack, like about a half inch to an inch, set the torch aside and work the weld area with the hammer and dolly to get it close to where you want it to end up. cool it with a damp rag, and fine tune the area. keep your welds spread out to keep from over-heating an area.

work slowly and plan every step.

[53choptop]

GREAT TIPS!!

This is more of a Common Sense tip but and as stupid as this sounds:

if you wear contact lenses take them off, I've read and have been told (I have nurses in the family)of cases where they are not taken out and people weld with them and they melt in your eye because of accidental contact with metal and the stick/wire spark.

[Paul]

sometimes the best and fastest way to remove sheet metal for repairs or modification is with the cutting torch,
keep the flame directed away from the area you are keeping and leave about an inch extra material,
this is where most of the distortion will happen, trim the cut edge with snips to remove the distortion, rework with hammer/dolly and file for that perfect fit and weld your new material on as in my earlier post.

[SwitchBlade327]

haha, the flip flop thing is hilarious, when I first started school for auto-body there was this one kid that acted like he knew everything (the teacher had been warned to keep an eye on him) and he ALWAYS wore flip flops. He was welding on a roof one day, in his flops, with jeans that were all tore up on the bottom, with no helmet on. I walked by the truck looked at him, and said "your on fire". he musta thought I was kidding cos he just kept on going until he felt his foot burning. He's been called "Flip Flop" at the shop ever since, half the people don't even know his real name.

[Smokin Joe]

Welding and grinding sparks will pit automotive glass coatings. Cover any nearby glass when using the welder or grinder. Nothing like finding your new windshield is trashed by all those little sparks you thought were just bouncing off it from that grinder 10 ft away.

[kustomolds]

BUtton yer shirt all the way up. I have a burn on my chest that looks like a third NIPPLE..... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Paul]

when widening or narrowing or reversing rims, mount them on a spindle with a gauge set up made of heavy wire or scrap metal so as you skip weld you can turn the wheel to check for true.

[Just Gary]

You guys are awesome. Please keep 'em coming! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

I've learned more real-world tech from a year on the HAMB than 20 years of magazine subscriptions and bench racing with suposedly knowledgeable friends.

[Barn Yard Chevy]

Thought of another one I did to my self a while back...
When using filler rod & gas welding, put a bend on one side of you filler rod. This is so you remember which end your using and you don't accidently pickup the Hot end after putting it down, or end up pointing the hot end at your self & burn through a flannel & two tee shirts before you give yourself a second belly button...

BYC

[Junkyard Dog 32]

A couple more things that I realized that just have to come naturally.

GET CLOSE... I keep my head (eyes) within a foot, or so, of the weld. Seeing what your doing is half the battle. This is especially true with TIG.

STRIKE YOUR ARC RIGHT AWAY... You see alot of rookies flop their helmet down and get nice and comfortable, before they strike their arc. By that time, your eyes are in the dark, inside your helmet, and have also lost their focus on your weld area. Strike your arc as soon as your helmet drops. This is something nobody teaches, and I can't believe I skipped it on my first list. Try it.

JOEhttp://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[lowsquire]

dont weld in your 6" cuffed big E levis. you will burn to death.from the bottom up.

[mecutem]

........avoid wearing "Handy Andy" gloves and flannel shirts while welding. The flames are purty but you look stupid trying to put them out. Steve

[Junkyard Dog 32]

Yeah, that reminds me...

If a guy catches on fire, DON'T TELL HIM...
Just watch...
Its funny http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


JOEhttp://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[carnut68]

Ok here's my 2 cent's, If your tig welding and have high frequency, set the high freq to start, then you won't have to scatch start, Get your tungsten by were you want to start welding flip the gas switch and there's your arc, but make sure you have your helmet down before you flip the switch or (you'll see the light). This will also eliminate burn mark's from scratch starting. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[Junkyard Dog 32]

[ QUOTE ]
Ok here's my 2 cent's, If your tig welding and have high frequency, set the high freq to start, then you won't have to scatch start, Get your tungsten by were you want to start welding flip the gas switch and there's your arc, but make sure you have your helmet down before you flip the switch or (you'll see the light). This will also eliminate burn mark's from scratch starting. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Cool Don.
That Hi-Freq start is awesome when you have some tiny piece that will move if you scratch start.

[Barn Yard Chevy]

[ QUOTE ]


If a guy catches on fire, DON'T TELL HIM...
Just watch...
Its funny http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


JOEhttp://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Oh Yea, There is also the welding test you can do to your buddy. While he's welding slam a pipe or a big hammer on his work bench or something like it to see if he jumps...This was once demonestrated on monster garage...

BYC

[zman]

[ QUOTE ]

Oh Yea, There is also the welding test you can do to your buddy. While he's welding slam a pipe or a big hammer on his work bench or something like it to see if he jumps...This was once demonestrated on monster garage...

BYC

[/ QUOTE ]

I believe that was the "NASCAR welding test" from the 1st Petty episode. And I think Jesse passed. It's a 50-50 shot as to wether someone passes or not.

[Rude Dude]

Always remember to remove cigs and lighter from shirt pocket never wear nylon sneakers when welding. ouch it smarts

[timebandit]

-Never weld with a wide bathing shorts.
A buddy of mine was just ready to go to the beach when a guy popped in to have something fixed in a hurry. So he fires up the mig and welds it together. Problem was he was doing the job on the garage floor, and simply bent down to weld the thing. He earned one painfull experience gettin his balls burned.

[Nads]

(25) Nutsacks ARE flammable.

[plmczy]

What is a good shade number to use when welding? I thought I would ask this after reading the tip about getting up close to your weld. Thanks,later plmczy

[Junkyard Dog 32]

I like a 10 for normal stuff. Outside, in bright lite, I like to go darker, like a 12.




JOEhttp://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[wingnutz]

Buy a can of Anti-Spatter for the MIG cones and surrounding areas!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

TEST...,
What is the Best type of gas to use for MIG welding...,
Stainless???
Aluminum????
Mild Steel??

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

[Weldemup]

Use a chunk of aluminum for a heatsink and its possible to fill large holes by backing the hole up with the aluminum and filling it with your M.I.G.
The molten wire won't stick to the aluminum,but will fill the hole or gap quite nicely.

[Scraper]

Wear good leather boots or at least keep your feet away from the weld area as much as you can. You'd be surprised how quickly rollers can find the spaces between your shoe laces and burn the most sensitive parts of your foot.
Also, don't sit and weld in any position were weld drops in your lap. It hurts...bad.
For the test guestions..sadly it's been awhile since I welded anything,but I'm pretty sure we used 70/30 Argon/CO2 where I used to work,but my memory really...what was I saying? I've never had the pleasure of welding stainless or aluminum http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

[Paul]

when making plug welds,
make the hole big enough to be able to start the weld on the parent metal, get a puddle going and then weld around the hole.

Paul

[Paul]

when tacking with a wire feed,
position the wire where you want the tack,
shield the area with a gloved hand,
close your eyes and make your tack.

[deuceguy]

[ QUOTE ]
(25) Nutsacks ARE flammable.

[/ QUOTE ]
I've got the scars to prove it.

[wingnutz]

[ QUOTE ]
For the test guestions..sadly it's been awhile since I welded anything,but I'm pretty sure we used 70/30 Argon/CO2 where I used to work,but my memory really...what was I saying? I've never had the pleasure of welding stainless or aluminum http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Good answers...! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Can anyone answer what's the best gas to use for MIG welding stainless, and what's best for aluminum??? (Hint..., partial answer previously mentioned!)!

[12pack]

heres my two cents worth.been welding for 20 years,sheet metal shop.maintain your welder,clean the inside once in a while.change your tips on your mig regulary,use good wire not the cheap crap.clean the wire feed wheels,only use steel wire in one linerand use stainless in an nother.as for gas i use tri mix thats what they call it up here in the north.the gas works very well on stainless also if welding mild steel thewelds are much hotter with tri mix.

[Junkyard Dog 32]

AG90 and Argon, respectivly.

I don't keep AG90 around, so I get by with straight Argon for both. I'd much rather use the TIG... especially for aluminum.
Unless I'm welding alot at once.

JOEhttp://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[chickenridgerods]

[ QUOTE ]
Can anyone answer what's the best gas to use for MIG welding stainless, and what's best for aluminum???

[/ QUOTE ]

Argon with the appropriate electrode for material being welded.

[cougardan]

Don't use an arc welder when wearing jeans with split knees.
Those little white threads are like candle wicks. Lifted my hood to see my leg was on fire. Pretty funny stuff after I beat the fire out.
Dan

[SKR8PN]

[ QUOTE ]
when widening or narrowing or reversing rims, mount them on a spindle with a gauge set up made of heavy wire or scrap metal so as you skip weld you can turn the wheel to check for true.

[/ QUOTE ]

If you have a friend with a drum/rotor lathe,chuck the wheel you are working on in it,to check for true. Tack it in four spots,check it again,then start to skip weld it.

[286merc]

Use the proper diameter wire for the job. .023 is ideal for sheet metal, .035 is not.
Many 120V welders can only handle .023 & .030, neither is a good choice for frame or critical suspension work.

Have enough AC current available. The bigger 120V units will draw up to 20-25A. If in doubt have someone measure the AC while you are working, anything over about a 10% drop is asking for poor welds. I have a stiff 240V line into the shop. From there I have a dedicated #10 120V line going to a 30A outlet for the 120V Mig. Changed the plug on the Mig to match.
The biggest problem people have with 120V MIG's is not the unit, it is the AC. But they blame the welder.

For frame and other heavy work I always use the 240V 175A Mig.

And I'll repeat what others said. Spend the money for maintenance, always have new tips and liners on hand.
And stay away from cheap off brand wire. Always inspect new wire, if it has been sitting in a moisture prone area it is suspect, even if the plastic wrap looks good. Look carefully for any rust specks.
Rusty wire will make more of a mess than flux core.

[Hotroddder]

Skip around a lot when welding sheetmetal. Do not come back to an area until you can touch it with your hand.

Tack and hammer the weld. This will relieve the stress, and help keep the panels in alighment.

[Junkyard Dog 32]

NEVER LAY DOWN A LIT TORCH... A curled up torch hose can be like a live snake. If you let go of the torch head, it might spin around and burn you or your new 20" billets.

NEVER USE A TORCH ON CONCRETE... A direct flame or even hot slag from cutting can cause concrete to "pop". You'll end up with all kinds of ugly holes in the concrete, and you might shoot your eye out, kid.

[atch]

wingnutz mentioned spray anti-splatter. i've never used spray, but i've got a can (tub?) that i dip the mig tip in occasionally that works really well. don't know the brand, but the local welding shop has it.