PCV valve

[Jimv]

I have a offenhauser 3x2 manifold on my SBC & i want to put the Pcv valvevthru the manifold( to keep the valve covers"clean" lookin) where can I drill thru the manifold ?It looks like right in front of the distributor hold down theres a spot.Anyone ever do this?
I ran it without a pcv but its spittin out oil onto my windshield when i'm on the highway.
JimV http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[CruZer]

My center carb has a hole drilled and tapped in the base and that's where I put my PCV. It still blew a liitle oil onto the hood at speed but I solved that by extending the breather tube.

[Jimv]

I already have a hose in the vacuum side of the manifold, I want to know where I can put the pcv valve instead of thru the valve cover!!
JimV

[CruZer]

Oh, I misunderstood. I put mine in the valve cover.
I hope someone acn answer this for ya'.

[DrJ]

The PCV valve is the part of a closed crankcase SYSTEM that operates at IDLE.
The part that works at speed is the vent hose that goes directly from some area open to the crankcase, usually a valve cover because it's easy to do, to the INTAKE of the carburetor, usually in the aircleaner base, inside the air filter area. They usually have their own sponge-like filter commonly called a "bowtie" that collect the liquids.
You need both these parts, the PCV valve and hose and the crankcase vent hose, for it to work correctly.
Check out where these parts go on a '70s car and try to duplicate the function if not the location.

[Smokin Joe]

Here's one solution for those who don't want holes in valve covers. Run the PCV from the oil breather tube to the base of the carb. The vacume differential keeps the oil vapor from blowing out the breather. Just drill the tube, stick in a grommet with your PCV and run the line back to the carb base. No blowby and you can run those vette valvecovers. Oh, and we welded in a little baffle above the PCV inthe breather so the oil will go by it when you fill and not into the PCV line.
http://photo.starblvd.net/~SmokinJoe/1-5-1.jpg

[Jimv]

Smokin, what cap did you put on the tube?
JimV

[DrJ]

I used a Mopar slant 6 cap on an Olds Rocket once.
I don't remember if it's the same size as a Chevy or not.
It's closed, no vent in the cap except the hose nipple and that's the one you want to go to the carb INTAKE although you may get away with T'ing it to do both.

[Smokin Joe]

It's just a normal cheapie chrome breather. It was one of the old chromed goodies gathering dust high up on the wall at my local performance parts place. It's been up there since I was in High School. 1969 or so. Bought the chromed coil that was up there next to it too. Don't remember the brand. Probably Cal-Custom.

[BLAKE]

DRJ - you got me thinking here... on my 401 I filled the road draft tube hole with a grommet and PCV valve, then ran a hose from the PCV valve to the base of the carb. Both the valve covers sport vented filler caps. Seen this done before and seems sensible enough, but does this sound like a workable 'system' to you?

[DrJ]

[ QUOTE ]
DRJ - you got me thinking here... on my 401 I filled the road draft tube hole with a grommet and PCV valve, then ran a hose from the PCV valve to the base of the carb. Both the valve covers sport vented filler caps. Seen this done before and seems sensible enough, but does this sound like a workable 'system' to you?

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry' but it won't work the way a PCV system should and does work.

You get oil coming out of those breathers don't you?
Or you put your old Gym socks on them like "booties" to collect the stuff...
You are redirecting what sed to go out the draft tube to come out the breathers.
Draft tubes were usually cut like a venturi so low pressure of passing air would draw out the fumes, while drawing fresh air in the V-C vents. Now you have it working backwards.
It's called a Positive Crankcase Ventilation system because it is just that. all the fumes positively get ventilated THROUGH THE ENGINE and burned!
The valve cover breathers defeat the system as it should function.

The PCV valve can't keep up with the pressure at any air flow higher than an idle, in fact, they are designed to restrict the flow.
The majority of the blowby fumes are supposed to go out the breathers into the hose that then goes to the base of the carburetor, inside the air filter where the carb is drawing them into the engine along with fresh air, to be burned.
If you keep the vents open on the valve covers you should keep the draft tube open too.
At least then the mess will go on the frame and not the firewall.

[BLAKE]

Sorry - no mess on the valve covers, intake valley, etc... Everything is nice and clean and the car has run just fine for a coupla years now... I was just hoping to avoid an eventual problem and perhaps make it run better if the current setup was causing minor problems.

Would I be better off capping the road draft tube hole, installing the PVC in one valve cover with a sealed cap (with hose running to base of carb), and leaving the other valve cover vented...? Isn't this the basic factory PCV setup?

[DrJ]

[ QUOTE ]
Sorry - no mess on the valve covers, intake valley, etc... Everything is nice and clean and the car has run just fine for a coupla years now... I was just hoping to avoid an eventual problem and perhaps make it run better if the current setup was causing minor problems.

Would I be better off capping the road draft tube hole, installing the PVC in one valve cover with a sealed cap (with hose running to base of carb), and leaving the other valve cover vented...? Isn't this the basic factory PCV setup?

[/ QUOTE ]

Sounds like you have a fresh engine with all the rings seated as they should be and virtually no blowby, Congratulations!
The PCV valve and hose can't handle High RPM crank case pressures in a "seasoned" motor.
That's what the open vented side is for.
Or what the draft tube was for on an old system.
but with a PCV system, that side isn't just a vented cap. It is a sealed cap or hose that directs all the crank case fumes and oil vapor into the carburetor by way of the aircleaner base instead of just out into the ambient under hood air.
Old system, air going under the car siphoned off the fumes, remember most draft tubes were cut on some angle so the airflow would suck the fumes out?
This actually drew freshair INTO the breather at the top of the engine.
If you get rid of the draft tube and don't direct those fumes to the carb intake.
They end up coming up out of the vent that was supposed to have fresh air going in.
Most of the aftermarket airceaner housings have the pipe for the hose to go on.
I just run the hose up one of the air intake scoops on the '55 Olds I usta have.
I think you have a tight clean engine, if and when it starts some blowby you will probably want to trade the vented cap for a hose to the airceaner.

[Jimv]

all these responces & I still was wondering if I can just drill a hole behind the last carb,infront of the distributor hold down.
JimV

[roadstar]

Jim, I dont have a pic here, but I drilled and tapped a Intake in front of the dist where you mentioned. It seemed to work just fine. Actually you can buy a pcv that treads in to 1/4 pipe tap hole. I'm pretty sure it's a mopar part.
You end up with a real clean OEM looking instalation.
Hope this answeres you question.

[BELLM]

But you still gotta have the larger vent hose that normally goes from the air cleaner to the valve cover. If you have a manifold with a fill tube at the front you could tap into it, I assume you do, otherwise how would you fill oil. Maybe go off fill tube to one of air cleaners with the vent hose & fab a cap for oil filler tube that does not breathe?

[Just Gary]

JimV,
I did just what you're proposing with a single 4bbl on a Edelbrock performer.
1. Drill a hole in the front of the intake for a press-fit oil filler tube.
2. Drill and tap a hole between the carb & distributer for the pcv valve.
3. Weld a baffle under the pcv hole to prevent oil from getting sucked out.
4. Connect the pcv to the base of the carb (I got fancy with a polished ss hard line).

[Just Gary]

Here's a clos-up of the PCV. It's between the carb, distributor and coil.

[Just Gary]

Here's the other end of the hard-line, where it connects to the carb base.

[SwitchBlade327]

Don't mean to hijack the post, and I dunno if anyone remembers awhile back when i was having problems with this stuff, well the problem never got ficed i just drove the thing to the shop blowing out a little oil. I'm not a mechanic so I didn't know what the hell that hose hanging down from the back of the intake was until my teacher at school told me it was the breather hose. He told me it was probaly stopped up and i just needed to take it off and soak it in some gas and clean it out. Is this most likely going to fix the oil coming out of the dipstick problem? Is the hose supposed to be connected anywhere besides where it mounts to the intake or does it just hang down? looks like it had one of them filter things like mentioned above maybe it's just stopped up. Thats the only problem with the old 389 so I'll feel alot better about it if i get it taken care of. All the damn bodywork ain't no good if I'm spraying and burning oil off my exhaust....

[whitewallslick]

FYI, the 63-ish corvette oil fill tube has a nipple for pcv hose hookup & is available through corvette repop shops. WWS

[Grumpy]

I'm at the same crossroads right now. So, if I've got a set of Cal Custom V/C's with no holes, all I have to do is drill hole into front of edelbrock intake to accept oil fill tube, then drill hole into tube, add grommet, and put PCV valve into that and run line to base of carb?! is this correct? I'm a simpleton sometimes http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif and if it is, what type of cap should go on oil fill tube, vented or solid? thanks

[Grumpy]

bttt http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Just Gary]

Grumpy,
My pcv takes a suction off the lifter valley area under the intake, as opposed to off the oil fill tube. Either should work.

I used a vented cap. Air comes in through the cap, mixes with the fumes, and is vented out through the pcv to the carb base. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[photo phantom]

I'm also in this same predickament http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif.
But my problem is that my carb closest to the distributer (3x2) only has two vacume ports. 1 for my distributer and 1 for my PCV. I need another for my tranny (350 turbo). Can I
Tap my intake and hook my tranny to that? Or do I need the tranny to be hooked up to the carb?
And if so, will hooking the filler tube to the intake work?
I know it seems like I'm asking the same questions that have been answered, but I just can't seem to get it worked out in my head.
Could someone draw a diagram with kindergarden level words on it? (I'm stupid!)
RICH

[BLAKE]

You should be able to tap manifold vacuum for the tranny modulator, and for crankcase ventilation you should be able to do what the other posted here... run your carb vacuum port to a PCV tapped into the oil fill tube, This should give you essentially the same arrangement as replacing a road draft tube with a PCV valve connected to the carb base.

HOWEVER, with that said, I'm still not sure why DrJ says this is not a workable system (?). My brain says that the carb is 'pulling' the hot crankcase gases out thru the PCV/road draft tube hole in the manifold (or oil fill tube) and re-feeding these gases to the cyclinders. The hot gases are replaced with fresh air flowing in thru the valve cover vents. Right? Am I missing something basic here?

[Grumpy]

yeah, except, I won't have any V/C vents. my cal custom covers have no holes and won't. I basiclly want to put pcv into base of oil filler tube hooked to base of carb. with a vented cap on tube. nothing else. will this be good? I agree with I'm braindead on this. can't get it to work in my head.!

[OGNC]

Buford, you forgot that most of the gasses in the combustion chamber file right out through the exhaust pipes.

[BLAKE]

OGNC - Umm... no I didn't. I'm talking crankcase gases, not cylinder gases. Since the role of the draft tube (as I understand it) was to pull hot gases out of the crankcase, it made sense to me to replace that vacuum action with a PCV valve connected to the carb base. The road draft tube vented the hot crankcase gases to the air under the car, but this setup pulls these crankcase gases into the cylinders and burns them with the air/fuel charge. The hot gases in the crankcase have to be replaced with fresh air entering thru the vented valve cover caps.

Now... where am I wrong? Huh? Where?

[DanO]

I have a pair of old Cal-Custom valve covers for my 283. I didn't want to drill any holes in them either. I am using an Edelbrock RPM manifold. It has a boss in the front to allow for drilling a hole for an oil fill tube that can then be pressed in. It will be topped with an oil breather cap. This will allow fresh air to be drawn into the lifter valley. In the back of the block (near the distributor), I have the old fitting for the road draft tube. It looks like a small cup turned upside-down with a nipple for the hose. I am going to screw an inline PCV into the base of the carb and run a hose from there to this. This will draw the crankcase gasses through the lifter valley to the carb, with fresh air following. The only concern I have, is that on the original setup, there was a canister that sat in the lifter valley to keep excess oil from clogging the tube. It seems to me that it might be a good idea to use one with what I want to do. Problem is , I haven't been able to locate one.

[photo phantom]

Thanks 62.
I'll give it a shot.
Just need to run down some v/c vents for these cal customs.
Also, I was talking about this subject with a buddy today and he said some guys don't hook up the vac advance on the distributer.
Have you heard of this?

[BLAKE]

I can't imagine a vac advance distributor with the vacuum disconnected..? The whole idea is to advance the timing as RPMs increase... maybe someone else has the stinky on this one.

Anyone have any more input on these PCV setups? Seems to be a lot of interest - let's hear it.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Hey! I've got a stupid question. Reading some of the posts about PCV valves and old valve covers makes me wonder if keeping the old look of Cal-Custom etc valve covers is worth all the hassle. I mean, I appreciate how the old parts look, but it can't be argued that modern valve covers/PCV systems work better. It sounds more like people are into restoration at times than hot-rodding. If you have an old manifold with a front filler tube and you want to run a down draft tube or whatever to keep solid valve covers more power to ya. But, talking about drilling holes and all sorts of jerry rigging seems kind of crazy to me.

[DanO]

BTTT

[Gr8ballsofir]

I agree with 62. I disconnected my vent tube in the rear valley cover and put a PCV in it's place, running to the rear base of the carb. It now sucks fumes out of the crankcase and fresh air is pulled in through the breather.

[29EHV8]

I have an Offy 3X2 setup on my roadster and it was puking all over my windshield too..I put a 3/8 hole in the back of the intake where the 3rd carb is,in front of the dist.Then tapped it and put a 3/8 90degree brass fitting in it.I then took my breather/filler tube and drilled a 3/8 hole in the side of it at the bottom.I then took a piece of 3/8 tube about 1 qnd 1/2' long and welded it on the filler tube.I put a piece of rubber gas line on it and put a pcv on it and then joined it to the brass fitting with another piece of gasline.Works like a hot damn.I might be able to take some pics later........Shiny

[Boones]

I saved most of the post from the last time this came up... but here is a nice figure that I believe DrJ posted of a pcv in the filler tube.

[warbird]

What DrJ is referring to is a "closed" PVC system. Prior to that you had "open" PVC systems where the air was drawn in through the breather in the oil filler cap, circulated through the crankcase and was then pulled through the PCV valve into the intake manifold or carb. If everything else is OK, the open system will work just fine.

You should be able to use any manifold vacuum port to attach the PVC hose or valve. In the intake manifold or carb base, shouldn't matter. One other consideration is that ideally you want the air to circulate through-out the crankcase, so the further you have the crackcase PVC port away from the breather the better. The filler tube set up will work just fine however.

For the PVC on my Cad motor I cut the road draft tube off and welded on a hose fitting adapter. Then ran the hose from that point through the PVC valve to a manifold vacuum port on the base of the front WCFB. Works well so far, no oil blown around and no more oily film on the underside of the roadster.

warbird

[Petejoe]

This would make a good techomatic keeper Ryan.

[DrJ]

[ QUOTE ]
What DrJ is referring to is a "closed" PVC system. Prior to that you had "open" PVC systems where the air was drawn in through the breather in the oil filler cap, circulated through the crankcase and was then pulled through the PCV valve into the intake manifold or carb. If everything else is OK, the open system will work just fine....
warbird

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes the open system will work but when the blowby overcomes the capacity of the PCV valve it will blow back out the breather and oil mist the windshield on a hoodless car. I've seen more than one of these open systems with an ugly oil soaked gym sock stuck over the breather to try and collect the oil coming out of them.
You choose...

[warbird]

[ QUOTE ]

Yes the open system will work but when the blowby overcomes the capacity of the PCV valve it will blow back out the breather and oil mist the windshield on a hoodless car. I've seen more than one of these open systems with an ugly oil soaked gym sock stuck over the breather to try and collect the oil coming out of them.
You choose...

[/ QUOTE ]

IMHO, if you've got so much blow-by that it overwhelms the PCV system, you've got a problem inside the motor that you ought to fix.

Knew some one that bought an early '60s Chev a few years ago. It had belonged to an old couple that hadn't driven it much and it probably had stuck rings. He finally got tired of the mess around the road draft tube and ran a hose from the end of the tube back to rear bumper. Solved the problem, but don't know if drivers following him cared much for the oil on their windshield.

warbird

[C9]

I'm a little leery of the vented oil fill caps.
In particular the ones that take air directly from the atmosphere.
The later Y-block Fords as well as the late 60's 390's had a vented oil fill cap that had what looked to be a horse-hair filter within.
It did not stop the dust etc. from entering the engine and in fact, once the cap was off you could feel grit in the oil filler tube.

With that in mind I made a closed cap for my 462" Buick engine and tapped incoming air from inside the air filter.
Not on the inside of the sheet metal housing and outside the filter.
Clean air, same as the carb gets with the vent line tapped to the inside of the filtered area.

The PCV valve is directly behind the carburetor above the lifter valley.
What helps with the Buicks is their intake 'bathtub' gasket that keeps oil splash off the underside of the intake manifold and away from the PCV valve.
In fact, my dual quad setup has provisions for a PCV valve directly behind the rear carb and I do run one.

I have run the filtered fresh air line from air cleaner directly to a 1/2" thick fuel pump blockoff plate that had an AN fitting for #8 line.
That worked well as did running two lines, one from the blockoff plate and one from the sealed filler cap, both to the filtered air supply area.
That done to gain some crankcase air inlet capacity, but it wasn't really needed.

Here's a pic of the filler cap in question.
It's drilled and tapped for a #8 AN to 3/8" NPT as you can see and also center drilled from the bottom to meet the side drilled hole.
This particular cap, even though aluminum is a touch heavy and the next one will be hollowed out with a thin piece epoxied or bolted on top.

[Flat Ernie]

[ QUOTE ]
Yes the open system will work but when the blowby overcomes the capacity of the PCV valve it will blow back out the breather and oil mist the windshield on a hoodless car.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hoodless being the operative word here. Air going by an open element or even a covered breather cap will act just like the road draft tubes of old and "pull" oil mist out of the crankase and onto the engine compartment & windshield. Run a hood, run a closed system, or design a baffle (probably ugly, but not quite as bad as an oil soaked sock!) around your breather to keep the oil where it belongs...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[chromedRAT]

i wanna thank you guys. i finally understand the PCV concept now. i printed off the previous 2 PCV valve posts and didn't understand what was going on until now, for some reason. not sure what system i will use, but i am really greatful for everybody that explained this and that about this whole thing, now i pretty much know what i'll have to do to run my old tymee chevy script covers on a PCV equipped '68 327. cool.

[warbird]

[ QUOTE ]

Hoodless being the operative word here. Air going by an open element or even a covered breather cap will act just like the road draft tubes of old and "pull" oil mist out of the crankase and onto the engine compartment & windshield. Run a hood, run a closed system, or design a baffle (probably ugly, but not quite as bad as an oil soaked sock!) around your breather to keep the oil where it belongs...

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry guys, but I'm running an open PVC system on a Cad motor in a hoodless '31 roadster. No oil!!

Works for me. Nuff said.

warbird

[bones35]

I know im digging up a old post but its a good one, ive got a question when you replace the draft tube setup with the pvc set up do you remove the internal filter set up or deflectors. my olds 324 has a big can do i remove that when i convert it to pcv. cory

[Bobert]

I know im digging up a old post but its a good one, ive got a question when you replace the draft tube setup with the pcv set up do you remove the internal filter set up or deflectors. my olds 324 has a big can do i remove that when i convert it to pcv. cory

I'm at the same place on a 303+. You need to keep the can inside the lifter gallery since it's a baffle and otherwise you'll suck oil through the PCV. There's a lot of oil flying around in there in a running engine. I think Yorgatron has some experience putting a pcv on a 324.

Just reread your post. Want to be clear that the big can filter near the end of the road draft tube goes along with the rest of the tube.

[hot rod wille]

[quote=Jimv]I have a offenhauser 3x2 manifold on my SBC & i want to put the Pcv valvevthru the manifold( to keep the valve covers"clean" lookin) where can I drill thru the manifold ?It looks like right in front of the distributor hold down theres a spot.Anyone ever do this?
I ran it without a pcv but its spittin out oil onto my windshield when i'm on the highway.
JimV http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

HHey, Jim-----I've got an old Edelbrock 3x2 on my roadster---it has a theaded hole next to the #4 intake runner.I thought somebody had drilled it, but have seen others with the hole.I made up some fittings---I think they are air-brake fittings--and used a Mopar in-line PCV---works great.

[39 Ford]

I drilled and tapped my intake just in front of the Dist., used a 90 degree adapter and a screw in PVC valve. Took the setup to the local NAPA store and got a custom hose and all the fittings. Make sure that you make and install a baffle under the manifold to keep oil out. This is better than coming off the filler tube as you are drawing across the complete valley area.

[bonesy]

[quote=Jimv]I have a offenhauser 3x2 manifold on my SBC & i want to put the Pcv valvevthru the manifold( to keep the valve covers"clean" lookin) where can I drill thru the manifold ?It looks like right in front of the distributor hold down theres a spot.Anyone ever do this?
I ran it without a pcv but its spittin out oil onto my windshield when i'm on the highway.
JimV http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

HHey, Jim-----I've got an old Edelbrock 3x2 on my roadster---it has a theaded hole next to the #4 intake runner.I thought somebody had drilled it, but have seen others with the hole.I made up some fittings---I think they are air-brake fittings--and used a Mopar in-line PCV---works great.


Very nice looking.

[1oldtimer]

i am using a 283 or 327 :)

[RustyBolts]

In my '31 Plymouth with a big block Chevy, I installed an inline PCV valve in between one valve cover and manifold vacuum under the carb and there's a screened breather on the other valve cover. It works fine driving around slow, but if I really get on it, there's too much blowby I guess, and the pressure builds up and a little oil sprays out of the breather and also out through the front timing cover seal around the crankshaft snout. It's a 454 bored out to 468, and really pumped up with a hot cam and high compression pop-up pistons and it's probably got at least 500 horsepower. I have heard several guys with hopped up big block Chevys having this same problem with oil leaking like that through the timing cover seal only when they stomp on the gas too much. One guy I know with a big block Chevy installed four breathers and that solved the problem of oil blasting out of the timing chain cover at least, so I'm thinking of doing that someday, but I kind of hate to have to cut up my old Cal Custom valve covers to install more breathers.

If you watch slow motion older movies of drag racers, you can see clouds of oil mist and smoke spraying out of the multiple breathers when they floor it. Modern drag racers usually have fat hoses running from the valve cover breathers to venturi tubes in the headers to suck the fumes out and burn them in the headers -- or they run the hoses to "puke tanks" to catch all the oil mist and blowby crap that comes flying out of the crankcase.

So a PCV valve works okay on a tame engine not working too hard, but at full throttle, you might need some way to vent the built up pressure in the crankcase that goes beyond what the PCV valve can handle. Also, at full throttle, you don't have any vacuum, so the PCV valve isn't working anyway. The crankcase fumes have to vent somewhere -- so they're going to come spraying out of the breathers if you have open breathers.

After thinking about this, I think I'm going to run more breathers and just wrap a sock around them for long trips. It's kind of Mickey Mouse, but it beats wiping down all the oil mist that sprays out everywhere when I punch it.

[hotrodA]

[ QUOTE ]
Yes the open system will work but when the blowby overcomes the capacity of the PCV valve it will blow back out the breather and oil mist the windshield on a hoodless car.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hoodless being the operative word here. Air going by an open element or even a covered breather cap will act just like the road draft tubes of old and "pull" oil mist out of the crankase and onto the engine compartment & windshield. Run a hood, run a closed system, or design a baffle (probably ugly, but not quite as bad as an oil soaked sock!) around your breather to keep the oil where it belongs...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I'm with you; mine only pukes at over 65 mph. Not a tight engine though. Instead of a sock, I use a tennis wrist sweat band on the breather cap. Gets funky, can it and get another one. Cheap too.

[pecker head]

all these responces & I still was wondering if I can just drill a hole behind the last carb,infront of the distributor hold down.
JimV I read a article in streetrodder magazine a couple of years ago , and did just what they said , drilled & tapped intake , used a threaded pcv , made a flat aluminum sheild under intake , it sucked so much oil it fowled plugs ! so I took a stock chevy valve cover baffle out & mounted it under intake , with a aluminum sheild on the bottom , to block oil ( there is a hell of a HURRICANE going on under intake ) it works very well , but it took alot of immagination . I wish I would have taken pictures . good luck:cool:

[RustyBolts]

I'm with you; mine only pukes at over 65 mph. Not a tight engine though. Instead of a sock, I use a tennis wrist sweat band on the breather cap. Gets funky, can it and get another one. Cheap too.

I like that solution. Looks okay actually. Nice and cheap. Good idea!:D

[jusjunk]

Jim, I dont have a pic here, but I drilled and tapped a Intake in front of the dist where you mentioned. It seemed to work just fine. Actually you can buy a pcv that treads in to 1/4 pipe tap hole. I'm pretty sure it's a mopar part.
You end up with a real clean OEM looking instalation.
Hope this answeres you question.

He is right and if i remember correctly the early like 65 66 gto had the pcv in the intake . i always thought it was a good idea and makes everything look clean
Dave:D