Wiring, what did you do??

[Toqwik]

Well, its about time to start wiring the 28, and need some suggestions. I am using a mid 80's gm column, and think its alot of money that I do not want to spend for a kit. Should I just pirate one from a mid 80's gm, or just make one (that I have no earthly idea how to do, but am willing to learn) Any ideas or suggestions are welcomed, or donated wiring harness would be cool also. To

[praisethelowered]

I made my own last time.

Then at some point completely forgot how i set it up. Now when there is a problem a have to troubleshoot it like it was done in Detroit and i lost the diagrams.

So, my suggestion is get one of these kits where the wires are all labeled. That's the way I am going next time.

[old beet]

Save yerself some headaches, get an E Z Kit......OLDBEET

[Paul2748]

I'd go with a kit also. Done two cars with kits and one without. Much easier with a kit. There are some good relatively low priced kits out there.

[titus]

i think alot of the wiring kit available are overpriced also!! i always wire mine from scratch, the kits also come a little overwired, especialy for an early car that probobly wont have much for accesories.

But one thimg i would start with is a universal fuse panel, then just wire in all your others, alot of people make it alot harder than it is, seeing some of the pics you posted your probably capable of learning, i say this in absolutly no offense!!

if your intrested i could anser any Q's you have, im pretty good at wiring and i realy like to do it, ive wired about 5 cars so far and all work fine, i plan on starting my own business doing this someday when i get a little bit more known for wiring (if that happens!)

Let me know, it a simple vehicle to wire, not many circuits.
and its pretty easy to wire in that gm column.

[titus]

oh yeah draw yourself a wiring diagram for your vehicle so when your done if you have any problems (if you wired it correctly you shoulnt)in the future

[Toqwik]

I've always just pulled them out of donor cars, thinned out the wiring I didn't need, and put them whatever I was working on. Never had one problem. But was just wondering as little if wiring that is going to be in this car, if there isn't a better idea. I don't see paying 250 bucks for lights, igition, and charging. Maybe someone needs to build a very basic harness, probably sell a ton of em. I thin JC Whitney sold em years ago for dune buggies.....To

[enjenjo]

I sell Kwik Wire harnesses, and they have a basic 8 circuit harness at a reasonable price. They also have a 4 circuit setup for a real basic car.

[Tinbender]

I used the harness from my doner in my Stude p/u. I even used the block that goes thru the firewall(ran it thru the cowl, out of sight) It worked fine but it's not clean enough for my taste. I'll go with a kit on my 33. Might even change the Stude when I get it closer to the "finish" stage.

[Detonator]

Titus is right, there's a lot of redundant wiring in the kits. Plus those Kit wires with "headlight" or "horn" stenciled on 'em every 4 inches look pretty lame IMHO. I got an Enos panel and a couple of different wiring diagrams and did it from scratch. There are several books out on wiring, and a lot of help here on the HAMB. I've got two left thumbs and no patience, and the only thing I got backwards on mine were the blinker lights. Give it a try, the worse you can do is burn your car up http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[C9]

Buncha good wire, 10-12-14-16 gage.
A variety of colors.
About 20 panel fuses.
Couple of long terminal blocks.
A couple of three fuse, fuse blocks for under the dash - or seat as I did.
Couple of headlight relays.
Ford solenoid in case you're running a GM engine.
Couple of 1/4" aluminum plates up on aluminum standoffs. (3/8" round aluminum sawn to length and drilled for 1/4 or 5/16" bolts to mount solenoid, regulator, fuse blocks, terminal blocks and relays on. Drill and tap several 10-24 holes for ground connections on the aluminum plates.

Make an underdash panel or drill the sheet metal seat riser if you have one and are putting the wiring etc. under the seat as I did.

Reason for so many panel fuse holders is that each circuit in the car has it's own fuse.
One for left low beam, one for right low beam, one for license plate light etc.
It makes for some additional wiring, but if trouble shooting is required it's easy.
Split the wiring under the seat and run each wire to the terminal blocks. Which also makes life easy for additions and trouble shooting.

This is a setup very similar to what's seen in light aircraft and has been trouble free for about ten years.

Keeping a diagram is nice, but if you get the right kind of terminal block you can note on the white strip in the middle - use a Sharpie - what the circuit is.

The way the wires run to and from the terminal blocks is pretty intuitive as well so if trouble shooting is required it should be easy.

Here's a pic of the seat riser in my 32.

[1oldtimer]

wired my friends A and it took:
6 panel fuse holder (pep boys)
headlight switch (pep boys) that has a fuse in it.
headlight relay (for hal conversion)
wire (if you have to guess at gauge size go bigger)
connectors and pigtails
solder and heat shrink tubing
wire holders and wire cover

[SKR8PN]

[ QUOTE ]
oh yeah draw yourself a wiring diagram for your vehicle so when your done if you have any problems (if you wired it correctly you shoulnt)in the future

[/ QUOTE ]

AND MAKE COPIES OF IT http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif That way IF you do something and ruin the original,you WILL have a backup http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Don't ask how I know this........

[tommy]

I've always wired from scratch. Make your wiring diagram before you start. There are lots of books out there. The spotlight wiring book from the 60's shows up on Ebay often. cheap.

I like to locate the components on the drawing where they go on the car. That lets you plan the wire bundles and gives you an idea of how long each wire needs to be. When you draw it out and then duplicate it in wire, you will remember it forever. You may need to refer to the drawing but you'll know exactly where to look. Make a small drawing of each subsystem...charging, ignition, lights etc. and then incorporate it into the bigger drawing.

What a learning experience. If you take the time and do it yourself, your ability to fix your own car will quadruple.

Anyone can fasten preassembled harnesses in a car. Knowing what's in that harness and why is a whole different ballgame. It's not that hard for a basic hot rod.

[porknbeaner]

Done 'em both ways, I'm with oldbeet. The E Z kit is the way to go. Just don't buy the one for a gold chain mobile, get the minimum of circuits, and run all your wires down low where they don't show (much).

[continentaljohn]

I have done both and kits are nice for multi circuits and cars with air and such. I'm not sure how many circuits your gonna have but a few suggestions; Get a simple diagram and plan it out. Use wire markers(stickers), they come in numbers and letters and throw one here and there. Cheap and easy to identify later. Abook of them at a supply house is 5 to 10 bucks and last a life time.. Try use fine strand and if not go to a larger size like 14 gauge stranded wire for 16. Chances are you'll never buy a kit after doing it yourself.

[C9]

While you're at it, be sure and run wires for future expansion.
You can leave em disconnected at both ends and tie-wrap them into a loop.
Be sure and leave some excess for winding around unforeseen obstacles.

I had a radio and heater wire up under the dash and ready to go for the day I put them in.
Got the heater, still draggin my feet on the radio, but the wires in place and ready to go sure saved a lot of work.

There's also an unused wire run up to the alternator and the excess is taped back into the loom.
Not sure what I may use it for, but it's there and ready to go.
Same deal back under the seat, the wire is coiled up and close to a fused source.

[gonowhere]

I also used an E-Z kit, in both my 54 chevy, and my girlfriends 55 dodge. Saves a lot of headaches in the long run(all the wires are labeled every 6 inches or so), and the kits were under $200 each.

[Dan]

I am missing something that I am sure is painfully obvious here, but what exactly are the terminal blocks used for and where should they be located?? Thanks-

[TV]

I've always used an Enos panal,they don't cost alot and they build it to your spects.done deal you supply all the wire and ends they tell you what to use.--TV http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[4woody]

I did EZ, and it really is easy. And certainly cheap enough. Sometimes it is not worth trying to save the last buck.
I also didn't like the look , so I got some stuff called "Asphalted (or asphaltic) Wire Loom". It is a black asphalt-imprednated cloth tube that comes in a variety of diameters. It gives your wires some added protection and has a more palatable, "Traditional" look than all those bright new wires.

[warbird]

I started from scratch when I did the wiring in my '31; but it's a simple roadster without any fancy accessories. Bought a couple of cheap fuse panels from Radio Shack, and a bunch of wire in assorted colors, crimp connectors and loom from a local hardware store. Re-used the headlight switch, new ignition and horn button from local Shucks. Also picked up some of the stuff at the swap meet and had a local shop make-up the battery cable (the battery's in the trunk). Went together in a couple of weekends and only had one headlight problem that had me puzzled for awhile. Came out OK and have had no problems yet. But, for what I spent on all the bits and pieces I could have just about paid for a low-end kit which probably would have saved me some installation time.

Guess you pays your money and takes your chances

[C9]

[ QUOTE ]
am missing something that I am sure is painfully obvious here, but what exactly are the terminal blocks used for and where should they be located??

[/ QUOTE ]


Below is a tiny pic of a terminal block.

All they are is a plastic block with plastic insulating fence between circuits.
Each circuit is a #10 (most times) machine screw termination point.
One screw on one side, a short strip of conductive metal over to the machine screw on the other side.

You can get by without them, but they're a great place to terminate wiring.
Put em anywhere you want.
Mine are under the seat and one example of use is the taillight wiring, fuel tank sender wiring etc. all come in from the back of the car and terminate at the block.
The supply source terminates on the other side of the block.
Very handy when you want to make some simple - and within capacity of the wiring/block - changes and perhaps stack some wiring on one terminal.

Kinda nice too, to split the wire at the terminal block and run a new wire if necessary and you don't get into butt splicing wires.

The best terminal blocks are the ones that have 1/4" glass Buss fuse holders at each circuit point.
They're hard to find nowadays though.

[Rocky]

I've used lotsa nova and camaro harnesses in 40's/50's cars and even used a plymouth horizon harness in a 50 chevy. I've also scratch wired a few...scratch wired the Rocky 33. I've always wanted to use a "store-bought" harness but could never justify the expense. Now, I see E-Z wiring has a 18 curcuit harness and fuse panel for $165...not bad.

[Scott B]

I have only done bikes, but electrical is all the same. My thing is to use all black wire, to keep things tidy. As I string it, I mark circuits with different colored electrical tape. Write down the code I go.

Keep a toner or a meter handy and you can't get too mixed up.

It all is very neat-o when you turn the key...if the smoke doesn't leak anywhere.

[warbird]

Yeah, once the magic smoke leaks out electrical stuff don't work no more! Usually smells pretty bad too http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Tman]

I sell a basic panel made by PARR automotive. $60, it comes with the main lead wired in. It has 8 circuits. 3 fused constant hots, 3 fused switched hots, etc. It has a relay circuit as well as flashers.I priced out the components separately and it comes to more than the $60 PARR gets. You do need to add your own wiring though.

[Tman]

Here is that panel.

[skipstitch]

Hey Quick...I have a how-to in Rev Magazine we did...if ya want a copy...shoot me your snail mail addy to APPLEMAN1234@MSN.COM and I'll send you a free copy... Stitch