Model "A" body mounting

[Snake9t9]

Getting ready to assemble the body on the 30' coupe and I already have a couple of questions.
I'm using original style reproduction wood blocks to mount the body, but they raise the subrail assembly about 3/4 of an inch off the fram. Am I supposed to trim these down some? How much? Is the body supposed to be this high off the frame? Whats the right way to set the cowl up so it is perfectly at 90 deg. to the frame?...by shaving the wood block under the front of the subrail/back edg of cowl extension?, or? Somebody please...help...? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[HOTRODPRIMER]

Are you using fenders? HRP

[Snake9t9]

Nope, no fenders and this is on an "A" frame.

[HOTRODPRIMER]

The blochs are used when restoring a car ...you may want to cut them down some...when i did a 29 on 32 rails i used /made rubber washers. HRP

[yngrodder]

go to a sporting good store and buy Rubber Hockey Pucks drill a hole in the center and you have rubber body mounts

[du$ty]

i used rubber also...i got horse stall mats at the tsc...and used them to cover my floor and the scraps to use as mounts.sounds like you need to do some channeling.

[dixiedog]

My buddy used the rubber that goes around the straps that hold a diesel tank on a semi, tractor-trailer mud flaps, anti fatigue mats from Lowes will also work good.

[Paul2748]

In a stock model A the block are supposed to mount the body away from the frame - the distance you have sounds about right. To align the doors, etc. use shims under the wood.

[Mild Mitch]

Guys,
Rubber is not a good idea in this case. I know it sounds like it would solve the noise and vibration issues, but...

You need a positive contact between the A Frame and body.
Reason being, is that the rubber will allow the mount bolts to back off as it compresses over the ages. Resulting in a loose body. Not good in this case. You will also have a hellofa time getting all the door gaps and such right. They will constantly change. Doors won't latch at times, etc.
As mentioned wood blocks and shims is correct. Just trim the blocks till you have a smaller gap between frame and body.

[Rude Dude]

Rubber belts on conveyors used at rock quaries break and are discarded usally 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick. Make excellent body to frame cusions. Cloth webbed internally, guys at rock quarry usally will give the belts away for free. Thats were my body mounts came from. Wood is good if restored they were shimed to a line doors and so forth, but with metal floor boards welded in like mine shimming isnt required.

[Jimmy]

Those wood blocks are the hight thickness and you'll need them to mount your body to the frame if the body has an original-type floor with the stamped steel subrails.

It doesn't set the body up as high as you might think because a goodly portion of the block goes up inside the subrails.

Shims are the way to align the cowl and set the door gaps.

Be patient. It takes a while to get it right.

[Snake9t9]

Thanks for all the info and suggestions guys. I am going ahead with the wood blocks. The entire stamped steel subframe assembly is going to be used. I don't want to channel the car because a 6" chop is in the plans for it. Gotta leave a liitle room in it so I can drive it. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif