Edelbrock Flathead Thermostat Question

[Iceberg]

I have a set of Edelbrock heads on my 59A and the stock thermostats are too big for the water outlets. What mfg/part # thermostat should I use? I've heard that you can use a washer w/ a 5/8" hole as a restrictor. Thoughts? I ran my truck last year w/o thermostats or restictors and she got pretty hot during late summer (90+ degrees). The gauge was showing high temp & she lost quite a bit of coolant (approx. 1 ltr) after a days driving. She never boiled over, but she was hot.

[lowsquire]

thermostats wont help overheating problems, just help it get up to temp quicker in winter by restricting coolant flow thru the radiator. flush your block and radiator out as well as you can,that could help, maybe you need to run a thermo controlled fan.
simple answers i know, but the basics are important with old motors.
good luck.

[Flat Ernie]

[ QUOTE ]
thermostats wont help overheating problems, just help it get up to temp quicker in winter by restricting coolant flow thru the radiator.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hate to disagree during the holiday season, but this "truism" doesn't always hold true.

First, let me fix a technicality - the thermostats don't restrict coolant flow through the radiator, they restrict the flow through the engine. Seems a minor point, but it is important to understand the difference. In any event, it does restrict coolant flow... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Now for the rest - I've had several engines that would overheat w/o thermostats, but run fine with thermostates & vice-versa. The trick in knowing which is which is unfortunately experimentation. Here's why:

All cooling system designs are compromises to some extent. Many factory setups were designed with multiple engine options with only the size of the radiator core being "adjustable" at the factory.

There are systems that will allow water to flow too quickly w/o thermostates. The problem here is the coolant doesn't have enough time to absorb enough heat from the engine & it begins to contact-boil around the hot spots further reducing the cooling capacity of the coolant. Another problem is it may also flow so quickly that the radiator can't absorb the heat FROM the coolant. Slowing the coolant via a restrictor or thermostat will help in this case. This is where the washers w/a 5/8" hole restrictor theory comes from for flatheads. This trick does seem to work on some flatheads in some applications & I think it's because there are two pumps in a relatively open system.

My long-winded point is just this: thermostats are there for more than just getting the engine up to temp quickly.

Now in your instance, you may be able to use the original thermostats inline. I have seen folks put them in the hoses themselves rather than the heads & secure them with a hose-clamps so they won't move.

I can't tell from your picture, but assume you're running a fan. If it's mechanical, I hope it's not an early crank-driven fan - they're mounted too low to be very effective & a move to a mid-mounted fan may be in order. Likewise, the generator mounted fans are often too high in non-stock applications. Ideally, you want your fan mounted in the center of the radiator, close enough to the core to be effective, & with a shroud (I know shrouds don't look cool, but...). Also, run about 80% water & 20% coolant in the summer - water really is the best conductor of heat. You might try adding a coolant additive like 20-below, water-wetter, or purple-ice.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[Iceberg]

I'm running a generator mounted fan (not much room in a '35 truck engine bay). I'm also running 50 - 50 antifreeze w/ truck water pumps & a rebuilt '35 truck radiator. I've never had her boil over, but you can tell when she is getting pretty hot. In the summer here in SW Washington it gets pretty hot (high 90's for extended periods). I'll try the restictors & some additives.

[Flat Ernie]

Sweet looking engine & I love those '35 p/u - my dad has one with a *gasp* SBC w/adapter he can't wait to yank out - he's got an 8RT ready to drop in.

With the early style engine & front mounted distributor, it's tough to get a mid-mounted fan. I'm sure you could cobble something together using a double-sheave pulley & the generator mount, but it would start looking tacky.

Try the restrictors & additive & play with your coolant ratio a bit. It won't hurt to flush the system as best you can when you drain it next.

BTW, I like the finned generator cover - is that one of Red's?

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[Iceberg]

When I bought my headers from Red Hamilton (Red's), Marlyn sold me the finned generator & regulator covers. I believe they are Vern T's products. Pretty cool looking & I get lots of comments on the finned generator cover.

[Iceberg]

I love this before shot

[Pist-n-Broke]

Flat Ernie is a well educated indivigual. You must have something in the system to keep the water in the rad long enough to cool it. Good luck
The Wizzard

[Petejoe]

I just run restrictors (washers) on my 37 with 5/8 holes. After having a set of the old style thermostats stick in the closed position and about toast the flathead I threw a set of restrictors on. A good way to hold them into position is tack weld the washers in place at the head intakes. Flathead runs cooler than ever..never over 180 degrees. Yes put in some an wetting agent to help increase the waters cooling ability.

[cadlights]

I have one thermostat left for the 59a heads if you are interested. 5.00 plus shipping.

[cadlights]

bttt

[MattStrube]

Flat Earnie, I read in Tex Smith's book that, unless you are in freezing weather, you don't want to use any anitfreeze. So, 50/50 may be too rich for Iceburg, good point.

[du$ty]

ive heard from more than one old tymer...that ford 289 thermostats are the way to go.

[Flat Ernie]

[ QUOTE ]
I read in Tex Smith's book that, unless you are in freezing weather, you don't want to use any anitfreeze. So, 50/50 may be too rich for Iceburg

[/ QUOTE ]

100% water would be great, but my concession to using coolant is not so much any cooling capabilities, but rather the electrolysis prevention properties when running aluminum heads. Also, most modern coolants have some water pump lubricating qualities that can only help these old-style pumps.

Other than that, I'd run as little coolant as I could and still feel comfortable w/electrolysis using aluminum heads. How much do you need? I don't know - anyone else got an idea?

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[Petejoe]

Water has more cooling efficiency than the store bought coolant. Alot of guys who live in temperate climes install a water soluble oil in their flattys. This is the type that looks like milk (you normally see this stuff for cutting and milling machines. I don't have any proof of this but I would like to think that this oil would work to prevent electrolysis in dissimilar metals.

[Flat Ernie]

[ QUOTE ]
I don't have any proof of this but I would like to think that this oil would work to prevent electrolysis in dissimilar metals.

[/ QUOTE ]

You're right! The water soluable oil (sounds like an oxymoron) is probably the BEST lubricant for the early pumps. I'm not so sure about preventing electrolysis though - it's facilitated by a chemical reaction & I believe the modern coolants have additives specifically for this purpose because of all the aluminum in modern cars (heads, radiators, etc).

But, I can't say the oil wouldn't for sure, just that I know the coolant does!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif