Aluminum Finishes - polish/powder/blast

[CharlieLed]

Awhile back I asked how others had finished their various aluminum car parts. Many polished, some painted, some powder-coated. I have Corvette suspension parts that I am prepping before I assemble the front and rear set-ups for my Merc, so I have been researching all the various techniques that I could use to make the suspensions look good without breakin' the bank.
I was just at the local chrome shop and talked with the owner about polishing aluminum (I have the equipment but not the technique and maybe not the time). He gave up one of his "trade secrets": most exposed aluminum parts on a car are anodized, if you try polishing anodized aluminum it won't take a shine. Before polishing you must remove the anodizing. Here's the trick, use EZ-OFF oven cleaner to remove the anodizing!
I have tried to polish some aluminum before and found that it just turned a duller gray. I haven't tried the EZ-OFF yet so I thought that I would throw it out on the HAMB to see if anyone else has used this product for removing anodizing.
Tomorrow is the trial, if it works I'll post pics....

[DrJ]

It takes off "One-Shot" sign painting enamel pinstripes too.
Make sure you only get it on the aluminum...
Maybe spray the parts in your spraybooth/oven? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

(Wife still won't let me forget the time I "degreased" pistons in the dish washer...Turned the white plastic gray.)

[Unkl Ian]

Anodizing is a form of Aluminum oxide.Just don't leave it soaking too long,Easy-off doesn't know when to stop.

[Harrison]

[ QUOTE ]
I have been researching all the various techniques that I could use to make the suspensions look good without breakin' the bank.

[/ QUOTE ]

Suspension parts on a ground-hugging Merc - on a budget?

Dupli-Color AlumaBlast. $4 in a rattle can.

-JH

[CharlieLed]

LMAO - yeah Harrison, it is kinda funny talkin about spendin' alot of money on gilding the lily. I guess it's more like "the straw that broke the camel's back". There's been a ton of cash sunk into this project already, I think that I would rather spend what's left on getting it running reliably than making it a show car...

[lakes modified]

If your not into the polished look, but the patina, then go for Bonneville salt with a little { kinda like 1.5 day's under a leaky tarp in the rain in Sacto Ca. with 75 degrees} and it'll do it every time.it works wounders on bare alum. and somewhat rusty sheet metal.now i have my modified lookin just right.try it and you'll like it.
p.s it even etches stainless steel.

[D Picasso]

there's lotsa ways to polish aluminum, most of them time consuming as heck.

here's how I've been doing it on my motorcycle projects, in this case a '78 Moto Guzzi:

first, I start with a file, a old busted bastard, and knock down as much of the pebbly, grainy surface and seams and casting marks as I can.

then, it's 80 grit time. sand and sand and sand and sand. sand until all the signs of that pebbly surface are gone. 2" brown Roloc disks on a die grinder can be helpful here.
tight spots such as on an intake can be dealt with with sandpaper rolls or careful use of a carbide bit in the die grinder.

start going finer with 150 wet-or-dry and use lots of WD40 as a lubricant.
it helps to cut an assortment of differing sizes of thin wood, like a paint stick, to use as backers, and it also aids in pushing the sandpaper into tight areas. old leather gloves are helpful to keep your fingers from getting raw.

then 220, same program, then 400. at this point the piece should be nice and smooth and uniformly dull.

now it's time for the buffing wheel. I use an old 3/4 horse bench grinder with extended shafts. it's not as nice as a Baldor but it gets the job done.
use a stiff wheel and emery compound, the dark grey stuff. the workpiece gets hot as blazes- wear thick gloves, and a face shield and dust mask.

then run it again with another buffing wheel, softer this time, with tripoli compound, the brownish-red stuff. finish it off with white compound. it'll shine like mad.

I did the swingarm, rear drive, fork lowers and triple clamps on this Guzzi. they were rough and sandcast-looking and covered with horrible black paint but now they look jewel-like.

it helps if you're obsessive, have lots of time and don't mind getting absolutely grimy.

give it a shot.

[CharlieLed]

Say Foiled, you're right on the money, the process is tedious if you want that sweet mirror finish. I used to build Harley's back when it didn't take me so long to heal up from a spill, the work was worth it when it was right out there for everyone to see and appreciate. I guess that I'm in a position now that I'm not willing to spend all the time to make these parts glow if they're going to be tucked up under a lead sled and out of view. Between your process and the methods that fastcat is posting for the cylinder head rework I should be in good shape to get the engine parts and the other visible aluminum parts gleaming. Thanks....

[abe lugo]

be carefull with that oven cleaner. it's basically an acid and will burn through skin like a sumbitch! just a note