engraving piston tops???

We have a '48 flathead we are disassembling, is it safe to engrave the piston tops with what number they are and which direction they go??

 

most people mark the rods and they are probably already marked as to what hole they go in.

 

Cant imagine a light scratch on the top surface would hurt.

Avoid a number stamp and hammer!

 

An electric pencil is fine. Actually if it's done lightly enough a metal stamp can be used near the center of the piston , not above the rings. I use the electric pencil, but on the underside , on the pin boss next to the rod. I always do it.
Randy

 

I would mark the rods. You would probab;y never have a problem but it may hot spot the piston later. Then you end up with a big hole in it.

 

I actually have several sets with .030, .040 and etc stamped on them it is a common way to mark them when they come from the factory.

Dan your rods should ahve a set way that they go on the crank. Another way that a lot of fellas do it is number the rod on the big end toward the pan rail.

 

I spray with carb cleaner, wipe off, and use a magic marker. The rods are already numbered. If the piston has no dot to show front, mark one for that. Keep in mind, a Ford is numbered different than some others, and number one is not the front most cylinder.

 

Don
No offense intended but which Ford doesn't have the number one cylinder being the front most cylinder? I don't doubt that you are correct I haven't worked on every Ford engine ever produced but I have yet to wrench one that the number one cylinder wasn't on the front of the engine.

 

I use a Dremel...

 

All Ford V-8s since 1932, have numbered their cylinders starting at the right front corner (passenger side) with No. 1 and followed with 2 thru 4 on that side. No. 5 is the first one on the left hand side followed by 6 thru 8. No. one is not the first cylinder on the crankshaft as it is on a Chevy (or other G.M.)

 

So number one is still on the front of the motor on all of them correct? I just thought that I had missed something somewhere along the way.

 

If you'r digging in you probably already know but here's a pic to help the confusing post posted earlier. Courtesy of Mac VanPelt.

Like many others have stated, many pistons come with the size ie: std., .030,.125, etc. marked on the top.

 

the pistons and rods are already out of the engine, the kids marked the pan rails with 1-8 although not really required as said the pass. side is 1-4 and driver 5-8. We have the pistons and rods marked now with "crayon" (you know, the yellow paint stick stuff) but I want to wire wheel the piston tops so was looking for a more permanent solution - I figured since some come with stampings on them it would be okay - the big ends of the rods dont seem to have as much room on them (say like a sbc) to stamp numbers - I havent had a flathead apart in a 100 years so I am re-learning alot of stuff

I always thought on any V engine one piston would be alittle bit farther ahead than the other, and that was always considered #1, does that sound familiar to anyone???

 

okay so I wire wheeled one and found the factory arrow and .020 stamp, is it safe practice to wire wheel the carbon off the tops to clean them up?? thanks-

 

I for one wouldn't do anything like stamping a number on the piston itself. Your's are old enough to vote, and aluminium work hardens with age. That is why they toss out aluminum rods after "x" amount of time. The stuff will fail sooner or later. But if you are absolutely overwhelmed with the compulsion to do it, I'd do the engraving pencil route. I personally always mark my rods, before they are pulled. Like you I haven't worked on a flathead since 1970, so my recall of the rod end isn't so hot.
Good Luck.

 

Okay so I found the factory stamps on the connecting rods now as well, rods 1-4 were actually in holes 5-8, is this a cause for concern? The crank is going to have to be turned on the rods and I need to check the mains...do I measure the rods big ends to see if they are in spec?

 

I was always told NOT to wire wheel piston tops, hand brush and/or carbon scraper.

 

I think the other poster was mentioning that on Chevys the #1 cylinder contains the piston and rod assy that is the most forward on the crankshaft, on a Ford, the #1 cylinder is the second rod from the front on the crankshaft....

Kind of hard to write that down in a "quick" way though..

 

hope that is not true, just got done doing half of them...

 

If the rod journals need turned, just have the machine shop check out the crank. Have the rods re-sized. Lippy