how do you shoebox guys slam your rides?

[Sam F.]

im wondering cuz,i lowered my pile,i lowered the rear last night with blocks and removing a few leaves,then i lowered the front tonight,by cutting the coils... the front is REAL close to the bumpstops and the engine is not even in it...

im just wondering what YOUVE shoebox guys have done to get them slammed,


also,how much of a drop do you get when you flip the spindles?
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/image_uploads/242946-car1.JPG http://members.roadfly.com/samiam/shitty.JPG

[Sam F.]

BTW,please excuse the RUST...this is as good as it gets down here http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[Tim]

cut the coils, and drop blocks in the back. you should get 2 maybe 3 inches max on the side to sideswap i think

lookin good

[shoebox72]

How many coils did you cut? 2 is the MAX. I've cut 2 coils and had to cut the bumpstops in half and still basically rode on the stops(only an inch clearance). I've had shoeboxes lowerd about every way possible, except airbags, and I dont even want to mention it here what one rode the best as I don't want to promote heating coils. DOH! was that my out loud voice? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Billy

[the-rodster]

I thought that I saw a new project of the rollback the other day. Where did you find it?

[Rocky]

Sammy, I cut coils [2 loops] flipped spindles, cut off bump stops and used 14" tires to get mine down. Also, my front springs came out of a 51 rag-top before I sliced 'em. It's possible they were heavier than a basic coupe/sedan spring. I used a late 70's trans-am stabilizer bar and that helped with not bottoming out around corners and when hitting bumps with only one front wheel. After oblonging one upper control arm mounting hole, it handled really good! Yeah, it rode a little stiff with the short springs but I like it that way.

[Sam F.]

it was in the daily times! i almost wasnt going to get it,but i figuered i had to get it to keep up with Kenny! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif LOL!

[Sam F.]

like i told shoebox72, i belive i messed up and didnt listen to the lil man in my head....he told me "two's enuff dammit!"

,,but of course i had to think "well,if twos good,then two and a half must be better!",,,ah fuck....oh well http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

[Sam F.]

Rocky,,what do you do to the place where the tie rods mount when you flip the spindles?

[kritz]

granted my 50 ford doesn't scrape as i drive, but it's alot lower than it was....used 2 inch blocks in the rear which actually took it down about 3 1/4 inches(the leaf springs were already pretty much flat.) and in the front(yeah, it's the forbidden method of lowering) collapsed some of the coils.took it about 3 1/2 inches down. everyone says that heating coils is very very bad...i can honestly say that my car rides better having a few inches taken out of the spring travel...before it seemed to float/bounce/drift as i would drive....now it rides nice. i've heard that the lowering spring cups work real nice though...

[Tuck]

nice club coupe dude... that car Rules!

tuck

[magnet]

hey, has anyone ever used these on front?

http://www.rodncustom.com/images/nos3.jpg

how do they work out? is it the alternative to the torch and weight method of lowering?

[59FORD]

If you want extreme low.


The front is a Fatman Fab. mustang II. 1" dropped arms with bags. Inner fender wells raised and fire wall cut back 2 inches to clear the 15" wheels.
The rear was bagged with a custom 4 link rear. Rear frame got a severe C section. The 8" Ford rearend was narrowed 2 inches. Gas tank was put on top of the floor of the trunk. Trunk floor raised also. Rear inner fender wells also raised to clear tires. Raised the drive shaft tunnel and modified the bench seat to fit.

http://photo.starblvd.net/~59ford/1-3-2.jpg

[mytlo56]

[ QUOTE ]
hey, has anyone ever used these on front?

http://www.rodncustom.com/images/nos3.jpg

how do they work out? is it the alternative to the torch and weight method of lowering?

[/ QUOTE ]

I used em' on my 56 Vic. They work well and you loose about 3-4 inches w/ out cutting or heating coils. It's an easy install too. You do need to do a little bump stop work and I'm actually thinking about putting a spacer in my coils to further prevent compression of the spring and bottoming. In the rear I went w/ three inch blocks and a secret shackle trick. This got me about 6 inches lower.

[kritz]

i tried to use a very similar thing on the front of my shoebox....couldn't actually get them inbetween the coils...even with the front end jacked up and tire hanging free there wasn't enough room between them damn coils....maybe mine has different front springs than most?? that's why i ended up heating coils.

[Rocky]

Butt.......I hadda heat and bend the steering arms down...then heat and bend the eyelets on their ends back up. This shortened the arms a little, causing a little faster steering with the penalty of a little more steering effort. Nothing to bitch about, tho. I actually liked it better.

[UNCLECHET]

I used Fat Man spindles. Heated the springs a little also. In the back I started with 2 inch blocks. Later went to 3 inchers. The car rode much better on the 2 inch blocks. Not sure why unless something I haven't found is hitting or it's just screwed up the suspension geometry. Something to look into. I wish the car was lower but in reality without lots of cutting, welding, bagging it's as low as it's gonna go. I feel it's still daily driveable and traditional.

[ric]

[ QUOTE ]
hey, has anyone ever used these on front?

http://www.rodncustom.com/images/nos3.jpg

how do they work out? is it the alternative to the torch and weight method of lowering?

[/ QUOTE ]
I made a set of those and they worked very well, the amount of time it took to make them, I suggest buying them, they are pretty cheap. Used 3" blocks in rear, again, made them out of rectangular tubing and welded them to the Maverick rear I was installing. Got car down low.

[nor cal nic]

drop spindles in front... 3" blocks out back in my shitbox... then we bagged it. don't know how to load my pic on this post but check out my posts by clicking on 'nor cal nic'click on 'show all users posts' then find my shoebox pic. post...
nic

[old beet]

B R, the only part you move is the spindle support. Rite one to the left side upside down. Viceversa. If I remember, a small amount of grinding on the steering arm. Drop about 3 inches. Did it many times as a kid. I think with relocating the lower "A" frames, and with spacers you can line it up OK........OLDBEET

[Tim]

if you search threw the shoe box posts from the last few months you should find it, i think i may have also put it on my nomination post for tech-o-matic stuff

ben asked a billion times dont know what its not on the tech thing, but anyways the spindal swap is here some were:S

goodluck
tim

[luckystiff]

who sells those spacers? i may go that route with the front of the plymouth if i don't do a volare clip...ken....

[nomobux]

Back in 1963 I parked at the public pool in Eugene Oregon, so my dad wouldn't catch me. Used a soldering iron burner to drop it a couple of coils. Then we .. er borrowed a couple of 5.60 x 15 V Dub tires for the front. Got it down pretty good. A little bouncy as I recall. Ah ! The good ole simple days

[UNCLECHET]

Forgot to mention I used Fat Man lowered steering arms also. I eye balled the toe in and drove. Should have taken it to the front end shop for alignment. Just about ruined my new tires. When I finally did take it to an alignment shop it aligned right up. Drove much better. You can get those front spring lowering blocks from Hot Rod and Custom Supply in Florida. However I don't have any experience with those kits.

[fuel pump]

I'll throw my $.02 into this on what I did to my ragtop. I put Jamco springs, shocks and sway bars front and back. Also did the dropped Fatman uprights in the front and 2" blocks in the rear. Here is what I got. Before

[fuel pump]

after

[UNCLECHET]

Fuel Pump, that's a beauty! Does it drive and ride nice. I like mine so much I wonder what they were like when they were new. Mine's kind of a beater.

[fuel pump]

Chet,
It rides fine but the combination of the radial tires and stock streering box makes it a handfull to steer. I've got a Volvo box and Jamco's installation kit to try to fix that. If I'm still not happy after that I'll put a set of Diamondbacks on it. Otherwise I love it http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[Ham]

Made my own front end lowering blocks,(like the ones from hot rod supply), and dropped it about 2-3". Was kinda a pain in the ass installing, grinding out the bolts, etc. Have 4" Jamco rear leaf springs. Looks real good, sorry no pics, and Jim the owner was real cool. Nice to be able to talk to a real person for once... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

[Sam F.]

what are those things that you guys posted? and how do they work,,are they like a spring compressor or something?



what do you guys think about subframing ? i know it'd be alot of work,and the shoebox track may be to narrow to find anything suitable to go under it,but i have more time than money http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

[magnet]

http://www.rodncustom.com/parts_dep/nostalgia/nos3.htm

[C. Montgomery]

my 49 has 3 inch blocks and cut coils, doesn't ride too well but it looks good

[Ham]

They work like the same idea as a lowering block. 1" square tubing the go between the A arm and spring cup. Just grind out the rivets/bolts, slip in between and bolt back up! Easier said than done, atleast for me it was...gonna cut a coil also in the future...

[shoebox72]

Sam, those blocks go between the lower spring pocket and the lower control arm. You grind or drill the rivits out to seperate the spring mount from the control arm install the blocks in between and bolt it back together. They drop the car a fair amount and still ride well. I put them on my 51 Vic turned convertible.

IMHO I would'nt subframe it, the wheels always stickout too much unless you narrow the sub. Besides, a less than perfect ride is what makes lowered cars so much fun to drive. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Billy

[TP]

I just ordered a set of the spacers from nightprowlers-$45.00.I have a set of stepped a-arms I'm gonna use also.4" blocks in the back, which is too much because of scrubb line. I am going to de-arch my leafs in the back and run a 3" block. All the cheap way. TP

[Ham]

I was told there is one of two ways to dearch leaf springs. One of the ways will set your rear axle back and cause drive shaft problems. Ultimately it's a cheap quick fix, but over time will cause some problems. Any truth to this or is this a myth? Sounds reasonalbe...

[slacker_53]

Butt, I lowered my '53 by heating the coils 2" and 4" spacers in the rear. I would like to go lower in the front, it's kinda dragging tail (cool though). And the 4" spacers are a tad extreme, it hits the blocks pretty hard and I've cut about 1 1/2" off of them.

I've got an ad for some kind of cushion that, I guess, goes in in place of the rear bumpers, but I can't seem to find it at this moment. When I do, I'll share it. It's gotta be around here some place.

The front end rides great and the car drives great, even with the www radials.

Can anyone tell me if the front-end lowering kit you pictured will also fit the later shoebox? Are the '49 -'51 front-ends the same as the '52 -'54??

I use ta know, but it's the old age thing.

Flatheads forever!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[magnet]

The website says...

[ QUOTE ]

'49/'56 Ford & Merc, '40/'49 Cad, '55/'56 Ply-Dodge-Desoto, '54/'56 Buick.
#2400
$62.95

[/ QUOTE ]

So i would imagine it would fit...

Its the cheaper way... other than spending big bucks on new dropped spindles... plus you retain the original spring length and ride...

I think i might give them a shot on my shoebox.. and 2" blocks on back.

Sounds like a chance for a good tech "how to" for the tech o matic.

Maybe in the spring...

So the site is
http://www.rodncustom.com/parts_dep/nostalgia/

click on the lowering kits on the left (ignoring the big fuzzy dice)

front kit (2" to 2-1/2") for a '50 shoebox is $62.95, 2" kit for the back is 45.99
total=$108.94 ... without shipping

that aint bad

[luckystiff]

i was gonna do a volare clip on the plymouth but have talked myself out of clipping it. i'm gonna order or make a set of spring pocket drops for the front and if needed cut a coil. i'll do a complete step by step when i do it and post pics. i have talked with a few guys who just made their own, but it may be just a sensible to order a set. got 3" blocks in the back right now would like to go about an inch lower but i don't think i can without raising the driveshaft tunnel. i post some pics as i do it either way...ken....
ps butt .... with your skill you could easily fab up a set of those drops and save yourself a coupla bucks maybe.

[mytlo56]

Slacker 53- They will work on your car.

http://www.brockmancustomparts.com/page11.html

As I mentioned above, we did them on my 56 Vic. and they worked out pretty well.

All that said, I want to do my next ride w/ bags & such...the way 59FORD did. Fenderwells, trunk, and the whole shootin match.

[Sam F.]

man luckystiff,myself,personally, im not into subframing unless there are no any other alternatives(read CHEAPER ways http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif)i subframed a 68 chev PU years back.but that was the only one i did myself.

BUT,my dad is all about subframing tho,everything he owns is subframed! seriously.all ive heard the past two weeks from him is that i should SUBFRAME it..i dont give shit about disc brakes, but the powersteering thing is cool..plus id like to get it really dumped without bags...nothing wrong with them,id love to have them,but i cannot afford http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif.

i hope someone does a tech post on those spacer things on this thread,as smart as i like to think i am,i cant figure out how they work! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


later

[mikes51]

Spacers are simpler than one thinks.
The two "legs" of the A-arm have a big plate (underneath)that is riveted to them. That plate is what the bottom of the spring sits on.

The new spacer is placed between your a arms and the big plate. You use new bolts because you've drilled out the former rivets.

So, your springs are in the same place, the big plate is in the same place, but the Arms got pushed up the distance of the spacers. Your wheel went up along with it.

I've had them. To me they are the same amount of work as cutting a coil. You have to take apart everything for both.

[slacker_53]

Thanks for the input on the spacers. For $ 62.95? I spent that must on dinner last night!

Okay, I've dropped the front 2" already, if I do the spacer thing, will my tires rub the fenders when I turn??

Just asking.

Flatheads forever!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[mikes51]

spacers are like cutting coils, you reduce travel both ways.

slacker,
My tires rub all the time when turning. One good feature of spacers is you can always take them out later if you have to. Or change the thickness of the spacers to fine tune.

[Tim]

could just get ballsy and z both ends of the frame http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[Sam F.]

ahh,ok,i get it now,i was having trouble understanding where they went..

thanks

[UNCLECHET]

Fuel Pump, let us know how that Volvo box and kit works. I need to do something also. My box is worn out and is very sloppy. It's kind of exciting at anything over about 50 MPH! Right now I need to go work on the brakes. They seem to have gone on vacation. HA! Later.........

[slacker_53]

Thanks for the details, Mike

-slacker

Flatheads forever!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[Reggie]

Fatman dropped uprights, volvo steering, posies rear springs with 1" lowering blocks. Had to rebuild tranny tunnel and rear seat to clear new tranny tunnel.

[Rocky]

Any of us that seriously lowered the "box" have hadda redo the driveshaft tunnel and rear seat riser a little...just part of the job.

[JSM56]

what did you guys do to raise the tunnel? did you use one from another car to raise it, or just roll a new one from sheet metal? i am trying to decide for my 56 ford, and i figure it's probally pretty similar. any info would be appreciated.

[Rocky]

I admit, I was crude about raising the tunnel. I cut the tunnel open all the way down it's length....right at the top. I bent the top edges back and used 1/2 of a discarded 4" diesel truck exhaust stack for a new tunnel top. Took a lot of heat and beat to get the surfaces lined up to weld it up with my [then] new Silver Beauty wire feed...

[hillbilly]

[ QUOTE ]
Any of us that seriously lowered the "box" have hadda redo the driveshaft tunnel and rear seat riser a little...just part of the job.

[/ QUOTE ]

no kiddin' rocky.....I ignored this little fact when i lowered my '51....

with a car load of people (7 people crammed in a shoebox), a lowered (2 3/4 coils up front, 4 inch blocks with the pinion angle correction GROUND into them) '51 coupe WILL rub the driveshaft tunnel...with an interesting effect on passengers....after the driveshaft rubs the tunnel for any length of time, it kinda gets a little bit hot....ok, RED hot, the undercoating heats up and starts smoking, the car fills with a not-so-pleasant aroma which sticks around for a LONG time...if you are lucky, it wont heat to the point of catching on fire...

hey, I drank at the time, and there were two cases of beer in it for me after the trip....things ya do for beer...sheesh....

next time I lower something that much, it's gettin a new driveshaft tunnel, with lots of room to spare...

[JSM56]

my car is cut out to clear, i just haven't done any sheet metal work to seal it back up yet. the drive shaft sits over two inches higher than the old tunnel. but the thunderbird rear seat has plenty of tunnel room. my passengers just have to watch thier feet so the spinning shaft doesn't suck them in.

[Wicked Death Chop]

yea, no shit. you still owe me a new set of shoelaces http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif! next time, im callin' "shotgun" http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

[Tim]

yeah i kinda did what rocky did but i used an entire half of a 5 inch peterbilt stack, chrome tunnel;)