BODY, Crafting skirts with no sewing

[loogy]

So I decided to make fender skirts for my 53 Chevy. I like the look of the surface mount Merc skirts so mine are modeled a bit after those.

I started by making a paper pattern. These happen to be about 1 inch larger all the way around than the stock fenderwell opening but you could make them any shape or size that you wanted.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7080001.jpg

I then made a hammerform out of 1/2" MDF. For this particular form, both pieces are identical.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7080002.jpg

Both pieces were screwed together and the edges were sanded to ensure that they were identical and smooth. You can also see where I made witness marks across both pieces. These will help me align them after the steel is inserted in between.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7080003.jpg

The next step is to lay the form onto a sheet of 20 guage sheet steel. Using a divider spaced at 1/4", I scribed a line all the way around the form. This will be my cut line.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7080008.jpg

[loogy]

The next two photos show the necessity of the witness marks and the alignment of the sheetmetal in between the two hammerform pieces. As you can see, 1/4" is sticking out evenly all the way around the form.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7080012.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7080013.jpg

Now for the clamps. I used as many as I had. I would like to have used more but this worked out OK. I did move some of the clamps around as I got to a couple of the areas that needed more support.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7080014.jpg

At the bottom corners I trimmed out little squares to allow the sheetmetal to fold over.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7080015.jpg

[loogy]

For hammering the edges over I used three different hammers. The one on the left was used for about 95% of all the hammering. Its subtle crown helps make the transition from one hammer blow to the next smoother. In other words, it doesn't make sharp edges that could cause kinks in the sheetmetal. The hammer on the left was used after the flange was about 99% bent. It's almost flat face smoothed out the flange against the form and made the bend a crisp 90 degrees. The third is just a standard ball peen hammer. It was used to get into the fairly tight corners.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7090024.jpg











http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7080016.jpg

These photos shows how much the metal is moved on each hammer blow. Starting at one end, I slowly hammered the flange down, working from one end to the other and back again. I didn't count, but it seems to me that it took 6-8 passes to get the flang all the way flat. If you get greedy and try to bend too much metal at once, you could very well end up with an edge that is kind of kinky and uneven. Taking it slow will ensurethat the flange is smooth and even.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7080018.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7080019.jpg

[loogy]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7090020.jpg
This is what comes out of the form. A perfect 90 degree flange with no distortion whatsoever.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7090021.jpg

Now I need to continue bending the flange all the way over to form a nicely hemmed edge. I'm using a rubber coated dollie so that I dont damage the face of the sheetmetal. You could use a chunk of wood or cover a dollie in layers of duct tape for a similar effect. Just make sure that the dollie or wwod is heavy enough to absorb the blows from the hammer. Again I work this edge very slowly moving the metal only a slight amount with every blow moving from one end to the other and back. The result is a very nice smooth edge that is inherantly strong due to its double layer. You will notice that I did not hem the bottom flange. You will see why in just a minute.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7090026.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7090027.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7090028.jpg

[loogy]

You can see in this photo that I didn't hammer the flange all the way flat. If the flange was pounded all the way over it would hit the backside of the skirt and possibly do damage that could be seen from the front. Also this slight bit of space allows me to place some supports up under the edge if necessary.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010035.jpg

Once the flange was all formed, I started to make the flat skirt fit the contours of the quarter panel. I did all of the bending using nothing but my fingers and knee. You can see in the second photo why I did not hem the flange on the botton edge. By leaving the flange at 90 degrees, it makes it stronger than the hemmed flange therfore resisting bending. This created a subtle flare that was necessary to clear the tire.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7090029.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010031.jpg

I've got the skirt fitting pretty good at this point. Now I need to come up with a means of attatching it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P7090030.jpg

[loogy]

For the lower mounting and support I used a piece of 1/8"x1" cold rolled strap. I bent the strap so that it fit the contour of the skirt exactly. Then I bent it at 90 degrees at either end and cut slots that would register with some pins on the fender lip. After it was all fitting correctly, I hemmed the lower edge over the support and tack welded it together.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010032.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010033.jpg

I used a thick paint stir stick under my clamps to ensure that they would not damage he surface.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010034.jpg

These are the pins that the lower support registers in. There is one in the front of the wheelwell and one in the rear.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010042.jpg

[CharlieLed]

Nice tech post...maybe geemann51 is looking in, he wants a similar setup for his shoebox. Adding an arm with a swivel and the rods/pins to hold the skirt on should be straightforward, you have the hard work done now. I can post some pics of the skirts I have from my Merc if you need to see the attaching hardware setup. Nice job!

[Tony]

Outstanding tech!
THIS is what it's about to 'do it yourself'..

They look great.Nice job!

[loogy]

This is the mechanism that I came up with to keep the skirt attatched at the top. I added a support that goes from the top edge of the skirt to the lower support. To this I added a slotted bracket that holds the retaining strap. The retaining strap is bent at an angle at the top so that as it rises it puts pressure inward on the skirt therefore holding it in place. The device that rises and lowers the strap acts like a spring. This is then clipped over a retaining bracket. The system works very well.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010036.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010039.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010040.jpg

[loogy]

And here's the final product. These are all metal and will require no filler at all.
Since I have never done anything like this, I think that they look quite good. The bottom edges need just bit more tweaking, but overall i'm happy.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010043.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010044.jpg

Oops! I gues I forgot to put the screws in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010045.jpg


Chris

[FiddyFour]

WOW man.. i am blown away! :eek: :cool:

BEST TECH!!! :D :D :D

[Rocket88]

Wow, that is some killer work!
Great post Loogy.
I've been wondering how to modify the skirts on my Olds.
After seeing this, that little light bulb above my head came on.

[mugsy]

Very good post. Nice and clear description and detail. I'm jealous of your skills and I've gotta ask: Are you self taught?
I love metalwork but, have no one to show me anything. I've gotta learn from videos and stuff like your post which means a whole lot of trial and error. Thanks for posting with such detail.
-David

[dabirdguy]

OUTSTANDING! --Thanks!

[loogy]

Thanks guys.

Mugsy, yes, I am totally self taught. I have made a bunch of mistakes in the past and still make a bunch. If one way doesn't work I'll try another way. I learned mostly by trial and error and by paying really close attention to others.
For me personally, I have found that I need to take my time, not be in a rush and really think things out before I start. I lay awake at night trying to find solutions to problems that may arise or just thinking of easier or cooler ways to do things. It just takes patients and perserverance.

Chris

[InjectorTim]

I love tech week

[FiddyFour]

Chris

you have any plan for putting a felt or rubber strip around the edges of the skirt to keep it from rubbing the quarter panel finish off?

also if you have a detail shot of how the "spring" attaches to the top pressure strap?

Thanks and again, my vote for "Best tech week tech"

Traves

[Kartsa]

This is cool post.VERY nice job.

[mazdaslam]

Awesome tech! You win!.

[mikey1610]

Holy crap! I sit here eating my eggs & bacon in awe.

[joeycarpunk]

Excellent tech post, nice job.

[Kev Nemo]

Lot's of people have been asking for this post-including myself. Seeing all the work that goes into, though, I think I'll just shell out the cash for some pre-fab;)
Awesome post and work...

[old beet]

Great tech!!!!! Killer finished job!!!!!...........OLDBEET

[FiddyFour]

Lot's of people have been asking for this post-including myself. Seeing all the work that goes into, though, I think I'll just shell out the cash for some pre-fab;)
Awesome post and work...


Jeeps

i kinda agree with you that buyin a set would be faster an all, probly even cheaper in the long run if you dont have the woodworking shit to make the bucks and forms

but DAM what a killer result!!!

for me, if i could make a set and make em look good... that'd be worth WAY more than the "cost" in time and effort

[LOST ANGEL]

JEEEEZ, you make that look simple. Beautiful work, I am so jealous of you talented guys!-MIKE:eek: :D

[attitudor]

Awesome! I will rebuild the new ones for my own '53 with your instructions!

Mika

[loogy]

Chris

you have any plan for putting a felt or rubber strip around the edges of the skirt to keep it from rubbing the quarter panel finish off?

also if you have a detail shot of how the "spring" attaches to the top pressure strap?

Thanks and again, my vote for "Best tech week tech"

Traves


My thoughts for a rubber strip is to use Soffseal's half round rubber weatherstriping. Either that or use the hollow weatherstriping that you can buy at the home store. We'll see which one works better.

As for the spring attatchment point, all that keeps the strap in place is the "S" shape and pressure from the spring. When the strap is engauged with the fender lip, the bottom of the strap rides on that little flat area in the spring. When the tension is released from the spring, the "S" shape keeps the two intact.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010038.jpg


Chris

[Jethro]

Nice job Loogy!.....you make it look easy! especially working with one hand and taking photos.

[labelkills]

those are bad ass man. I like the elaborate attachments

I didnt build my skirts on my 49 but I did convert the screw fasteners to zeus fasteners

cool tech

[mugsy]

Thanks guys.

Mugsy, yes, I am totally self taught. I have made a bunch of mistakes in the past and still make a bunch. If one way doesn't work I'll try another way. I learned mostly by trial and error and by paying really close attention to others.
For me personally, I have found that I need to take my time, not be in a rush and really think things out before I start. I lay awake at night trying to find solutions to problems that may arise or just thinking of easier or cooler ways to do things. It just takes patients and perserverance.

Chris

Well alright! Gives me some hope and inspiration. Thanks again.
-David

[lownslow]

wow AWESOME TECH ! ........ very nicely done ......

[hotrod54chevy]

lookin good...when you get done choppin that 53,wanna come to ohio and chop a 54? :D look sweet,man...i'd LOVE to get a set for my chebby
creepy

[FiddyFour]

Chris

Thanks for the money shot of the "s" bend in the spring rod.

still in awe on this one man, BITCHIN :cool:

[TheFrenZ]

PHENOMENAL !!!

You nailed it again.Saw you also found some Packard trim.Cool ! I only can say it again,this is going to be a killer kar...great work !

[Psychobilly Boi]

hey man,

10/10 killer tech!

danny

[Brootal]

Wow! That is almost as good as my world famous Yo-Yo Tech! ;)

Nice work Loogy, especially from an 'amateur'.

[praisethelowered]

great post man!

I have been trying to figure out that attachment detail for a long time.

[Squablow]

Wow, that attatching mechanism is way better than the studs and wing nuts I welded to the back of the skirts on my '40. Another fantastic tech with great pictures that go to show that I am a no-talent ass-clown. The car looks great and you make it all look so easy!

[Comet]

Chris, nice work. Well thought out and executed. And a great write up to go along with it. :cool:

[Tony Bones]

Pretty darn amazing work Chris.

[BICKFORD]

that was awsome.i wish i had some skills like that.

[mexicano]

very nice work!!!

[hotrod54chevy]

here's a question that was kinda already asked..what would you say the cost of supplies for this project?estimates including and not including the supplies needed for the wood..hehe..wood..if it's not TOO amazingly high,i might make some myself....if not,you might have me knockin on your door beggin for yers!
creepy

[coupeHEAD]

Excellent tech and fabrication, Chris. They look great! Keith

[Dat Dirty Rat]

Awesome work and great tech post...Your 53 is on its way to being one of my favorites...I not only love but wondered what Packard trim would like on one of these....Fantastic job!

[Chopped50Ford]

awesome tech!

I have been itching to making a set for my shoebox....now I know.

I give this tech a 10....and the Blue ribbon for 1st place.

I know what it is to be self taught....that is the only way I could learn...Taking your time...thinking about your steps and going forward w/ action. Great Job!

[Snake9t9]

Excellent Tech post. I feel as though I've been to "Skirt buildin' school" haha. Very nice. Thank you!

[CoalTownKid]

I can post some pics of the skirts I have from my Merc if you need to see the attaching hardware setup.

I'd like to see that setup!
Jason

[TomH]

Chris
you have any plan for putting a felt or rubber strip around the edges of the skirt to keep it from rubbing the quarter panel finish off?

I was woundering about this too.

You got my vote too!!! (and I did a tech post)

[alittle1]

It should also be noted that you can put a isolator rubber strip, known as Schlagel weatherstripping under the lip of the skirt before pounding it down. This is a C type w/s with a hard edge to go under the roll over. Inner brackets can also be made to hold the skirts on on either side and a clamp down bracket at the top still implies the torque rod therory that Loogy used. A 3/16" wire rod can be used at the edge of the skirt to stiffen and contour the skirt much similar to what you would find on a metal pail. This allows for bracketery to be more readily welded to the skirt and offer superior support.

Loogy did an excellent job and report on making these skirts.

[Ron]

Very nice!!

[loogy]

here's a question that was kinda already asked..what would you say the cost of supplies for this project?estimates including and not including the supplies needed for the wood..hehe..wood..if it's not TOO amazingly high,i might make some myself....if not,you might have me knockin on your door beggin for yers!
creepy

Thanks again for the very nice compliments guys. It means a lot.

As far as an estimate goes, I have no idea. I had a lot of the materials on hand. I would have to say that I would have close to $50 into the PAIR including the wood for the forms, but thats just an off the cuff estimate.

alittle1, do know where I can get this Schlagel stuff?

Chris

[alittle1]

Schlagel w/s should be available at most Home Depot's, Lowes, Menards stores. It is the typical type of w/s that is used with steel insulated doors. The flat roll type is not bad if you appy a bead of GOOP (marine) and let it set up before applying the roll type. Worthy of noting, because of the hard back core of the Schlagel, you have to cut out notches (V's) as you go around the tight corners. The core is flexible plastic which was designed to fit in the saw kerf in the door jam but too hard to bend on the radius of the skirt.

I can see a slight design flaw in your skirt lock. Over time your eye on the fulcrum mount may spread and lose torque to the rod that jams the skirt at the top. My suggestion would be to have a C clip made of the like material pull downward at the wheelwell opening instead and close the loop with a small tack weld to retain fulcrum strength and rigidity. I've used spring wire for my torque rods in the past.

You have the technique for making skirts, now try a fitted skirt and bubble cruiser skirts. Nice to see a young feller taking up the art and willing to share with others.

Thanks again for the very nice compliments guys. It means a lot.

As far as an estimate goes, I have no idea. I had a lot of the materials on hand. I would have to say that I would have close to $50 into the PAIR including the wood for the forms, but thats just an off the cuff estimate.

alittle1, do know where I can get this Schlagel stuff?

Chris

[Kustom7777]

Awesome work and great tech post...Your 53 is on its way to being one of my favorites...I not only love but wondered what Packard trim would like on one of these....Fantastic job!


posts like this are what makes the hamb what it is,,,,,,,,,your step by step is easy to follow,,,i am gonna make a set for my 39 dodge

[alittle1]

Loogy,

Please find attached photo of Schlagel type Kerfed-in w/s. Notice the hard core inside the w/s to roll your edge over on.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y172/alittle1two/KerfedinwsSchlagel.gif

Schlagel w/s should be available at most Home Depot's, Lowes, Menards stores. It is the typical type of w/s that is used with steel insulated doors. The flat roll type is not bad if you appy a bead of GOOP (marine) and let it set up before applying the roll type. Worthy of noting, because of the hard back core of the Schlagel, you have to cut out notches (V's) as you go around the tight corners. The core is flexible plastic which was designed to fit in the saw kerf in the door jam but too hard to bend on the radius of the skirt.

I can see a slight design flaw in your skirt lock. Over time your eye on the fulcrum mount may spread and lose torque to the rod that jams the skirt at the top. My suggestion would be to have a C clip made of the like material pull downward at the wheelwell opening instead and close the loop with a small tack weld to retain fulcrum strength and rigidity. I've used spring wire for my torque rods in the past.

You have the technique for making skirts, now try a fitted skirt and bubble cruiser skirts. Nice to see a young feller taking up the art and willing to share with others.

[Hotrob]

Lot's of people have been asking for this post-including myself. Seeing all the work that goes into, though, I think I'll just shell out the cash for some pre-fab;)
Awesome post and work...

Amen!
Awsome job, but I do not have the nerves for that kind of fab.

HotRob

[54BOMB]

Damn thats a nice ride! Great post!

[trey]

i like metal working, and i like tech posts. so i really like metal working tech posts. that looks sweet man! and easy enough, the average joe hamber could do it. thanks for posting. makes me want to buy a car that needs skirts!

trey

[rustyparts]

Very very kool!!!! you got my vote!

[RustyRedRam]

Wicked Pissah! Wow, this tech is just plain awesome. Great work, great description, great job.

[Nads]

Very nice indeed, you got my vote.

[Jeff Norwell]

Awesome tech post...a keeper.

[skumbag]

kick ass, great job!

[Rolf]

Excellent TECH ! Thanks for the effort !

[loogy]

I made a small modification to the skirts today. It may be overkill, but I was just a little worried about the stiffnes of the skirt. I added these 16 gauge straps to the backside. Maybe it's just my imagination, but they seem to really stiffen up the skirts. I could have added round rod to the flange (like alittle1 said) before I pounded it over but I wanted these to be as thin as possible. Anyway, I just wanted to let anybody who may follow this as a guide for their own pair of skirts.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/loogy/53%20Chevy/P1010001.jpg

Chris

[286merc]

GREAT work. I got one concern tho. How are you going to keep the welded up lower brace from accumulating water behind it and rotting thru the 20 gauge in short time? Since that complete section will need to be air tight maybe POR-15 or similar might seal it???
Living in this part of the country rot is a way of life.

[loogy]

Thanks!

My plan, when I actually get to that point, is to first coat the entire backside with epoxy sealer. I will literally poor the sealer on the backside so that I can let it run under all of the flange and braces. Then I plan to seamseal the living crap out of all of the seams and flanges. I'll use a really flexible sealer so that it won't crack, especially near the ends of the lower bracket where it bends away from the sheetmetal. After all of that, I plan to coat the backside with the same type of undercoating that the Germans use under all of their cars. The Germans use Wurth products (to the best of my knowledge) but I will be using a comparable product made by Fusor, #805. In fact, the seam sealer and the undercoating are the same product. It applies using a special gun that is adjustable to put out a thin line, like regular seam sealer, or to put out a spray, like undercoating. Using the same product for both the seam sealing and the undercoating will mean that they will adhere to each other very well as well as expand and contract at the same rate. When dry, this stuff is damn near bulletproof.


Chris

[hotrod54chevy]

man,i still cant get over how bitchin those look.how much would you charge a fellow HAMBer for a set of those in bare metal? :-D i'd seriously like a set and i dont have the tools/space to do anything besides paint them..any idea what you'd ask for em?
creepy