So you ain't got a big ol FLAKE GUN! TECH

[abomber30]

This is kindof a two part tech. we will get to the flake soon. For those guys with no sandblasters that have some rusty old parts. Muradic acid "2.50 a gallon" at the old hardwear store does the trick. I bought a couple gallons put em in a old steel tray and set these rusty old backing plates in for a couple hours. damn they come out looking like new. Wear your gloves and goggles and a lil dust mask this stuff is potent. wash the acid off with water and dry what your working with quick because they will rust quick. Put a lil primer on and you are readdy to go Flake.

[abomber30]

muradic acid bad stuff does good work

[abomber30]

clean backing plates

[abomber30]

dry em clean em with a lil degreaser and prime em. I used black laquer primer cause I am gonna use some red flake.

[abomber30]

So next step is to bust out the seymore metalflake in an airbomb. Shake well and don't stay in one spot to long. cover the backing plate till your happy and the coat looks even.

[abomber30]

Then after they flach off a bit go ahead and clear. seymore makes a clear in a airbomb works good but automotive clear is better. you will put a couple coats on and let dry over night. then come back the next day and sand em a lil with 600 grit to smooth em out. degrease and clear again. continue this process as long as you want. here are a couple I did. flake rocks the house!!!

[abomber30]

There it is an easy prolly under 20 dollar way to spice up your car with some flake with no air tools. kind of backyard style if you don't have access to shop equipment. Seymore is the creator if aerosol paint. That makes my hometown airbomb capitol of the world hahaha. Seymore carries green, gold, red blue, silver flake, some temporary tire sparkle and clear coat, and some baddass satin black works good for alot of stuff. I am not sure if they sell direct But we have tons of it at our shop if any of you guys are interested. I think it's 10 a can goes pretty far if you take good care of it. Now you can't flake much bigger than a 5 inch pattern it gets kinda blotchy, but it rocks on suspension and interior parts. later drew

[Plowboy]

I was listening to the London Quireboys in the garage last night. The Song "sex party" came on and I thought to myself, "I wish Drew was Here".

By the way you are the biggest "flake" and you don't come in the can, so to speak. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Lookin' good man, I was just thinking of what I could flake on my truck. I don't have backing plates though. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

[silent rick]

what about coverage? i picked up a can with plans to spray a minbike. will one can do? should i lay down a base coat first? as long as i'm rattle canning it, is there a brand or type paint that i should use if i'm laying down a base coat first?

[scapin38]

i flaked my guitar with green and gold."green for the money and gold for the honey's". does a nice job on smaller stuff.

[Nads]

abomber, it's been my experience that muriatic acid has a way of creeping and staying deep inside metal pores forever. Yeah the parts look great after the initial painting but that nasty stuff rears it's ugly head weeks and even months down the line. I hope you have better luck than I did, but I can't trust that stuff.

BTW, yer shit does look good.

[Snake9t9]

Hey guys, I'm a hazardous materials tech by trade and may have some insight on the use of muratic acid for anyone thats going to use this method.
I noticed that on the gallon jug in the pic above that the concentration of the acid is greater than 31%. This is some nasty stuff and "muratic acid" is just a nice name for hydrochloric acid (HCL). In this concentration the user should not only be using rubber gloves but also some respitory protection. A dust mask just will not come close to protecting you. The vapors from HCL will burn your eyes and do permanent damage to your lungs. So, if you use this method get a chemical cartridge respirator. The cartridges are availible for acids and bases and you will be glad you used one in the long run.
To nuetralize the HCL residue on parts after stripping them in HCL, first soak in a good thick solution of baking soda and water (we use this as a standard method for hazardous spill responses for HCL). After the soda bath, rinse really well in lots of running water. Now, before prepping for paint scrub the part down with rubbing alcohol (IPA). Now your ready to prep the part for paint as usual.
- Duane

[kyle paul]

i think any old gun will spray out flake . i used a devilbles sucton feed gun .but make sure u put a marble in the gun and shake often so it comes out evenly.and also when flaking make sure your bace color is as close to the color of your flake so it comes out nice and shiney.i used black base befor it came out dole after i cleared it and just dident look as good as if it were based the same color kyle
live your life by the law and u wont live life at all

[Unkl Ian]

Snake9t9: any thoughts on Phosforic(sp) Acid ?
I think it's supposed to leave an Iron Phosfate coating ?

[abomber30]

Coverage on the flake it vary's I always use a base coat that helps the color flake. grey primer works well with the silver. black works well with the other colors, On small items such as these backing plates you can bury the flake so you can't even see a base. on a wide spread area it's tricky. you gotta be handy with the steel if you know what I mean.

I use a paint respirator and I was using the acid outside and it's like 10 degrees here so maybee I did not get the full effect of the acid. I was just told to be carefull with it this insight helps. we will see how the paint holds up I washed em up good with degreaser and water before painting we will see. The general purpose of the tech post here was just to get the backyard hot rodder a chance to make his rod a lil flashier "cheap" but yes you do have to be safe so thanks for the acid tip.

For the big flake I have an old agitating cup. it's the cats ass makes flaking easy. I am not the metalflake king but I have a bunch of best flake awards hahahahaha

[67Imp.Wagon]

Did you dilute the acid? if so what ratio did you use.

Snak9t9 is right about useing the backing soda. I would think as long as you soaked them good in the soda that you probably would'nt have to great a chance of any acid comeing back on you later.

[abomber30]

I was told to use it on a gas tank nooone said anyhting about diluting it. Sure does work quick though. The one backing plate has been done for a month don't see a bit of bleed through or anything. We will see.

[Snake9t9]

Nope, haven't ever tried the phosphoric acid trick but I have heard of it. My concearn would be the ability to totally neutralize the acid on the surface before paint prep...not realy a chemist though...just specialize in hazmat handling / response / clean-up and the proceedures to do so.
HCL off gases at a faster rate with increased temp and humidity so with the cold weather it may have been fairly dormant, which makes working with it much easier. It is a great low buck way to strip rust. I used it to clean up several parts on my project...no paint problems yet.

[Hellfish]

The canned flake Drew is talking about turns out REALLY good when buried under clear. I was AMAZED at a Desoto dash he did. I couldn't believe it came froma can. You do need to lay clear over it though... ain't that right, Mr. Exotica?

Thanks for the tip, Drew.

[bottle]

Hy Drew Is the can-o-flake Inported from MEXICO and can I uses my Professonal Ace Hardwear Handle For spray can's?
It dose look good !!!!!!!
Belvidere