Scanners broke, More re-run tech

[Tinbender]

This is a rather old method used to make flared edges, scoops, and other openings. It’s easy, and a great way to sharpen your metal working skills.
This is another re-run from a while back, but my scanner went T/U so it’s the best I can do for now. The subject is my 46 Stude pick up. I wanted 3”exhaust dumps, but didn’t want them just hanging there. After fooling with some ideas, using poster board, I came up with something I liked.

[Tinbender]

I started with 5/16” round rod. I formed the shape over a piece of 5” pipe, clamped on a bench. I heated the rod with a torch, but it could be formed cold. Once I had the shape I wanted, I held it up to the rocker and marked for the first cut. Rather than add metal for the flare I wanted to stretch the existing sheet metal, so I made the first cut small, and took more out as needed.

[Tinbender]

In this shot, you can see that I’ve already cut more metal out than was originally marked. The other mark is the starting point for the flare.

[Tinbender]

Stretching the metal is easier than you might think. You start by moving the metal out, with a body hammer, while supporting the rest of the metal (the part you’re not moving) with a dolly. As the metal begins to flair, it needs to be stretched. Stretch the metal by hammering “on dolly” Sandwich the metal between the dolly and hammer while you’re hammering. Switch sides often, hammering on the top then the bottom, with the dolly on the opposite side. It’s easier than it sounds, you’ll get a feel for it pretty quickly.

[Tinbender]

This next photo shows more fitting. Go slow, and fit often. It’s easier to cut off more metal, than to put it back on. I’ve also moved the line up that marks the beginning of the flair. If you want a sharp line at the beginning of the flair, place the dolly with a edge along the mark, and hammer the underside at an angle “hammer on dolly”

[Tinbender]

In this picture, I’m doing some final trimming. I like to remove a small amount of material where the sheet metal meets the round rod, so that after welding, it can be ground smooth, without weakening the joint.

[Tinbender]

Here’s the flare welded. I like to weld hot, and deep. Most of the time I make beads 7/16” or longer at a time. A MIG welder tends to “cold start”. There is no pre-heating, so the first part of the bead doesn’t always have the penetration you want. So if you stack tiny tacks in a row, you can end up with a shallow bead, and pinholes between the tacks.
I also welded up the seam between the cowl and rocker.

[Tinbender]

This is the finished product after grinding and dressing the welds. A skim of filler will finish it up. The inside needs to be protected from rust. I like to use epoxy primer and a good underseal. The edge where the sheet metal meets the round rod should be filled with seam sealer first. I like Duramix, or Fusor.
I used a MIG for this, but any welding method will work just fine. Now I just got to get busy, and build a set of small tips to run when the caps are off!
Thanks!

[Rocknrod]

SLICK! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif