Chassis Table: How and out of what should you build one?

[Kilroy]

Givin the high price of hot rod chassis, my limited budget, and a desire to do something a little different, I'm considdering building the chassis for my next project.

I've seen pictures of frame tables and understand the concepts behind their design but would like to hear from you guys about how/why you built yours. I'd also like to know what you should build them out of and why, and some little features and or tricks you should incorporate to make life easier.

Anybody have any suggestions? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Thanks in advance and thanks for all the tech so far on tech-week. You guys rock... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

[flt-blk]

Make sure the table is level, not just paralell to the floor.

I use a center line and carpenter square for all dimensions. Everything is referenced off the center line. This keeps everything square and straight.

I would take a picture but it is currently on loan.
TZ

[30roadster]

bttt

[sawzall]

i know (clarke) sowhat is going to be building one so maybe he will contribute..
I have worked for 3 shops that have had "chassis tables" of some sort.

The first was a guy in lancaster PA named bobby meshey HE did, and still does ALOT of PRO STREET and dragster work.. mostly backhalfs. his frame table was basically a workbench made of heavy wall square tubing with NO table top that way you could stand inside the table and do work as well as work from the outside. He made up stancions off of the top tubing to hold things in place..(like the rear axle and front suspension etc) I really didnt like it.. it was cool that you could stand up through the center of the car and weld on stuff.. but it seemed like we were always measuring off of 3 or 4 of the same points of the table.. I always wanted the ability to reference measurements from more places.

WHen I worked for Posies, and dutch was building the extremeliner they had a VERY nice frame table. the table top was one solid plate I think it was 1/2 inch thick.. the base (if I remember correctly) was made out of I beams.. it was big and very very level.. always something to measure off of easily.. this would be my preference if you were not only building a chassis but also some custom body work..

LASTLY, THE WAY i WOULD DO IT IF i COULD.

for about 3 weeks I worked for a place that made wood trusses..the building we were assembling the trusses in had metal PLATES built into the shop floor, furthermore the company had a series of magnetic based tables that could be adjusted in any position to hold the trusses.. and assist the laborors (me) to assemble the trusses.

AS I see it this would be IDEAL as you could build the chassis in the air, (off of a series of SMALL, moveable magnetic based tables) and then as the chassis neared compleation you could lower the frame to the floor and assemble body work off of the plate..

also for me working alone most of the time, in my 2 car garage, this would be the only way to make it fit..

As sawzall said I am planning on building one (as soon as my back is a little better)
What I have is 8 6 foot peices of 2x6 steel tubing that is a 1/4 inch thick. I got them for free. They will be my cross braces. I'll have to get 2 16 foot peices of the same size tubing for the sides. I'm going to leave it open like the first one described by Sawzall. The main thing is to make a surface that is flat and square. I've got about a half dozen frames to build for myself and friends. If you just want to build one frame it's not worth doing. I want to make the legs detachable so I can lean it against a wall when not in use. I know it's gonna be heavy and I may need to use an engine crane to lift it. Another idea I have for it is to have pins at the front and back so I can run a center line down the center of it.
Any suggestions from guys that have them?
Clark

[4gotn1]

The ones I saw at Rad Rides a pivot point in the front with wheel hubs mounted on them. When you wanted to move it you just had to throw the wheels back on and roll it around the shop. They had a removeable tongue so you could guide it.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Lots of ideas here :

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB1&Number=224744&Forum=U BB1&Words=jig&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&L imit=25&Old=3months&Main=224592&Search=true#Post22 4744

[porknbeaner]

I worked in a job shop in the '70s. We did a lot of work for the roundy round guys, and built a few certified chassis (NHRA), while I still worked there.
What we had was a piece of I beam (3"), about 15' long attached solid to the floor with 3" pipe about every 4 feet.
Then we had a second piece with pipes and flanges. about every foot for about 8 feet there were lugs in the floor so you could move the mobil piece in or out depending how wide you wanted it.
It had to be leveled up every time you moved it but it was good and solid, and adjustable. If I were going to build frame table in my place I would probably do it the same way. perhaps on a smaller scale.

[Lockjaw]

Here is a picture of mine. It's simple, fairly cheap and handles almost any chassis except really long wheelbase like dragsters.For that i would use the i beam style. http://photo.starblvd.net/~custommetal/2-2-1.jpg

[atch]

another interesting thread from almost a year ago: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB1&Number=23077&Forum=UB B1&Words=frame%20table&Match=And&Searchpage=1&Limi t=99&Old=1year&Main=23077&Search=true#Post23077

and another one from more recently: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB1&Number=200356&Forum=U BB1&Words=frame%20table&Match=And&Searchpage=0&Lim it=99&Old=1year&Main=199690&Search=true#Post200356

[Kilroy]

Thanks guys...

I'll bring back up to get more of your tricks...

Can you build a ladder type frame without a jig?

I built the frame for my roadster with out a frame table. It just takes more time and a lot of measuring. I started with four cement blocks. Two in the front and two in the back. Then I ran a peice of two by four tubung across both pairs of blocks. Starting with the front bar I leveled it shimming it up as needed. Then I leveled the back side to side. Then you need to level the back with the front or visa versa. After you have the front and back leveled side to side and front to back you can start to lay out your frame peices. You will have to square them up a couple of times. It will take two people to do the measuring.It took me and my wife two hours of leveling and measuring before the first weld was made. Tack your crossmembers in and go back and double check everything. Then carefully weld the crossmembers in. Don't weld one side completely up then move to the other side. Move from side to side letting one side cool while you do the other.
Clark