Canuck
12-10-2003, 11:12 AM
Just a little pay back for the help I have received from the HAMB.
Pressure Sand Blaster on the Cheep
Material Required;
-Old BBQ tank, I used a 20 lb. One, but a 30 lb. tank would be better. Remove valve from tank and purge all residue of propane from tank. I filled tank a few times with water and drained and then blew out with air then left it outside upside down till I was ready to use then blew out with air a few more times.
- 3 - ½ ball valves
- 3 - ½ NPT to hose bards
- 1 - ½ pipe T
- 1 - ½ pipe Cross
- 1 - ½ pipe Street T (behind Deadman valve in picture)
- 5 - ½ pipe nipples
- 1 - 2 pipe nipple, cut in half
- 1 - ½ pipe threaded port flange from a hydraulic supply house
- 1 ½ pipe plug
- 1 - 2 pipe cap (I used aluminum cam lock irrigation fittings for ease of removal)
- 8 piece of electrical conduit
- 2 old BBQ wheels
- misc. scrap steel for legs and wheel bracing
- 1 piece 8 long ½ sandblaster hose
- Deadman valve and nozzle.
Construction is shown in the attached picture and may vary according to the available material. The only thing not shown is the piece of conduit. I took a piece of ½ metal electrical conduit, squeezed one end closed in a vice and drilled a bunch of 3/8 holed down the length of the piece. This was epoxied into the pipe nipple that is threaded into the bottom of the tank to serve as a kind of filter to break up the sand and prevent blockage going to the sand throttle valve.
First ball valve where air line connects is On/Off pressure to tank. Second ball valve is On/Off pressure to blaster hose. Third ball valve on bottom of tank is throttle valve for sand. By using a Cross fiting with a plug in the bottom, the plug can be removed to drain tank if required.
Make sure you release pressure from the tank before taking cap off to add more sand and always wear face protection and gloves when using.
Pressure Sand Blaster on the Cheep
Material Required;
-Old BBQ tank, I used a 20 lb. One, but a 30 lb. tank would be better. Remove valve from tank and purge all residue of propane from tank. I filled tank a few times with water and drained and then blew out with air then left it outside upside down till I was ready to use then blew out with air a few more times.
- 3 - ½ ball valves
- 3 - ½ NPT to hose bards
- 1 - ½ pipe T
- 1 - ½ pipe Cross
- 1 - ½ pipe Street T (behind Deadman valve in picture)
- 5 - ½ pipe nipples
- 1 - 2 pipe nipple, cut in half
- 1 - ½ pipe threaded port flange from a hydraulic supply house
- 1 ½ pipe plug
- 1 - 2 pipe cap (I used aluminum cam lock irrigation fittings for ease of removal)
- 8 piece of electrical conduit
- 2 old BBQ wheels
- misc. scrap steel for legs and wheel bracing
- 1 piece 8 long ½ sandblaster hose
- Deadman valve and nozzle.
Construction is shown in the attached picture and may vary according to the available material. The only thing not shown is the piece of conduit. I took a piece of ½ metal electrical conduit, squeezed one end closed in a vice and drilled a bunch of 3/8 holed down the length of the piece. This was epoxied into the pipe nipple that is threaded into the bottom of the tank to serve as a kind of filter to break up the sand and prevent blockage going to the sand throttle valve.
First ball valve where air line connects is On/Off pressure to tank. Second ball valve is On/Off pressure to blaster hose. Third ball valve on bottom of tank is throttle valve for sand. By using a Cross fiting with a plug in the bottom, the plug can be removed to drain tank if required.
Make sure you release pressure from the tank before taking cap off to add more sand and always wear face protection and gloves when using.