Sanding tip.

[Nads]

80 grit drywall sanding paper in a drywall board works great. The drywall board is longer and wider than a 1/4" sheet palm block and is very comfortable to use. The sanding sheets come pre cut in packages of 25 and are very reasonably priced. When you consider the time saved in not cutting sheets it's well worth it. For some reason the drywall paper doesn't clog as bad as regular paper and it lasts much longer.
This stuff works great for roughing in bondo work and when the paper starts wearing out it's great for pre primer blocking work.

[hotrodladycrusr]

Nice hint Nads, thanks. It will come in handy when I start sanding on Big Olds this winter.

[MichaelDorman]

Yep, it does work really well, and it's cheap stuf (comparably speaking). I think the design/coating that they put on it helps it keep from clogging up. Ever tried sanding plaster with regular sand papper! Also the drywall sanding screens work well for roughing in bondo and never clog. They do wear out a little faster though.

[LIMEY]

I'm thinkin most of you already know this but when wet sanding a little washing up liquid in the water will help stop clogging too.

[Paul]

and the bonus is you can use one of those long pole handles so you don't have to work in a cloud of bondo dust http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

oh! hey can you apply the bondo with a bazooka?

seriously though that's a great idea Nads!

I'm right in the middle of that phase right now,

I'm gonna get me some!

Thanks!

Paul

[Kojack]

Hey, you're the man. I never knew you could use the stuff. I mean, it's sanding paper and of course it would work, but I've always been busy using the usual 3M stuff. Didn't realize the drywall stuff. I'll be hittin' up OSH more often then.

[warpigg]

since you brought up sanding:
i'll post a tip about polishing cast aluminum.

start with 400 grit and go up to 600-800-1000...

use an orbital sander for best results.

jewelers rouge and a cotton wheel on a drill will give an even better shine, but for flatter / uniform surfaces (i.e. club plaques, uniformly round things) there is no reason to go beyond the paper.

another club plaque tip is to paint first (kinda a no brainer). But i use one shot... (it is the shiniest and leaves no brush strokes) as a second coat, i spray enamel first and brush one shot over it in the larger areas only after sanding / polishing.

i'd show you my plaque work but knowbody is supposed to know what club i'm in...

[Kustm52]

Here's another tip...you know how when you are roughing bondo in while it's green (right after it "kicks") and your 36/40 grit keeps clogging up? Well, take a hacksaw blade and slap the block...all the little chunks will fall off and you can keep using that sheet of paper...doesn't have to be a hacksaw blade, just something thin to "slap" it with. I think I originally read this in a shop tips edition of Hot Rod in the eighties...

Brian

[Zodoff]

or a steelbrush.. just a few strokes over the paper,and its back to buisness.

[fordiac]

when you need to rip a piece of sandpaper, fold it towards the grit side first. then fold it paper side to paper side, and you will have a nice straight line to rip on. try it both ways, it makes a difference.

[JimC]

Good tip, Nads.

For finish work, you can take two flat pieces of plastic(length and width adjustable for different areas)Attach the grit you are using to one side and 80 grit to the "palm"side

The 80 will keep your hands from slipping on the flat board and the plastic will conform to the curvature of the area you are working on,Fenders, hoods, etc,.etc,.

It just takes a little getting use to the rough and tender pal;ms caused by the 80 grit.

But you get a feel for the panel and the degree of finish you seek.

Jim

[Petejoe]

This is sanding related and saves a ton of work. Instead of using body filler to cover your entire panel before giving it the guide coat sand. Buy a gallon of primer called
Z-Chrome. This stuff is high solid and goes on so thick that it'll cover all the small scratches and imperfections, you can then give it the final sand prior to final paint. Works good!

[Nads]

Z-chrome? Is it compatible with urethane finishes? Is it really "hot" and cause shrinkage of red putty? How quick does it dar and can it be wet sanded?
Thanks petejoe, I wanna try it.

[shoebox72]

Good post Nads. But what do you do when you just got done sheetrocking the walls in your newly built garage/workshop and you used all the drywall sandpaper on your cars bodywork??? Lightly wipe over the joint compound with a damp sponge. It's fast, comes out smooth and theres no dust. If only body filler were so easy.

Billy

[Petejoe]

Nads, It is compatible, alot of guys use it with very minimal shrinkage. I used it on the 37 and I loved it. Check out your paint supplier for this stuff. Check out this guys interpretation. Z-chrome (http://www.type2.com/library/body/saprep.htm) here's anotherz chrome (http://www.type2.com/library/camper/fiberpo.htm) Check out a search on the stuff lots of first hand info..