Don't know if that engine is gonna fit in the kaiser...

[Kojack]

Damn it.

I thought it had it and this was gonna happen smoothly. But as we all know with cars it's NEVER that way.

I got a new transmission for the car, and bolted it up. We spent the evening trying to get the motor in, sliding it down and marking where it should go. It looked okay when it sat in there... but when the holes were drilled and the motor set where it's supposed to be, it wasn't going to work. I'm already about a inch off center to make room for that steering box, but I'm still close... I've got less then half an inch clearence between the box and the block. If it runs other then perfect, it's gonna shake the shit out of me when I'm driving.

What's the best route from here? This is a solid car... I REALLY didn't want to tear it apart because I know it's rare, and maybe someday I'll want the orignal motor back in. But it looks like I'll either have to get a new front end and steering system to clear it, or I'll have to rip my floor apart, get a tunnel from another car and weld that in, and raise the motor up so it does clear. Any other suggestions? Or should I just get an adapter and drop a inline in there? Here's how close I am...

[Kojack]

Closer...

[Bugman]

Best way to do it would be to rethink the steering setup, But it would take some doing to make it so that you could put it back if you wanted too. Maybe drop the box down, and go at it with u-joints, but then you may end up with ground clearance issues. A smaller box might work too, but you'd have to find one and adapt it.

-Bugman Jeff

[Unkl Ian]

Three choices: raise the motor,
use a smaller steering box,
Put it back the way it was and forget the whole thing.

[40StudeDude]

Why not simply change the steering box...to maybe a Vega? Seems to me changing the box (and column) would be easier than a whole front suspension...got to be smaller boxes out there...just a suggestion...
R-

[Kojack]

Problem is I don't know anything about steering or suspension... can I get a Vega box to adapt with this older system?

[Fat Hack]

Rack & Pinion.

[RileyRacing]

That has got to be the shortest FatHack answer, ever.

I agree, the most effective answer would be r&p, ala MII. But not really that trad.

Jay

[Fraz]

Kojack, before you get nuts, check out these links. KFOCI club. Few guys have done the SBC swap into their KF cars, so one oughtta know how to do it.

http://www.classiccar.com/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?s=3cff8d784160ffff;act=SF;f=30

http://www.classiccar.com/cgi-bin/chats/chatpro.cgi

When you log into the chat, you have to scroll down to the KF room.

Tell them DaFraz sent you

[Fat Hack]

Hey...I can be concise when the situation calls for it!!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Not trad entirely, but simple and easy...I like easy...easy is GOOD!!

Mustang II stuff would work...or that small Chevy could take a walk and give way to something smaller....inline motor maybe...

Hell, I'm using a rack in my project!!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[chromedRAT]

the situation in my pontiac looks really similar, although my 327 is alot higher, high enough that if i can snake an exhaust system around it, it'll work. but my box is directly below the center two exhaust ports. with mine, i found that i can use 70 chevelle headers, i think by dynomax, and with a little tube rerouting, can comfortably fit full length headers around the steering box and on back. the ones i got from a buddy of mine will fit perfect if i just move the forward tube up a bit. you might consider the same with yours if you can boost the motorvation up on the air.

[zman]

..I had put a Camaro subframe under the front of it. It's not a hard swap on a kaiser and solves some other issues as well, like motor mounts and good stoppers...

[DrJ]

Move it over another 1/2", or whatever you can find. Mopars did it in the 60s. no big deal. Just remember you have to move the tailshaft over the same amount! or the Ujoints will be out of sync.
I can't tell from the pics if the exhaust is above the bx or not but there are manifolds that go up and over so they will clear if the heads are above that box. When it torques under load it's going to be moving away from that box so that's ok, Just don't run a radical cam and it won't bounce around at idle. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Do it. if it's a problem fix it later. if it's not a problem then you didn't need to worry about it.
I dropped a nut replacing an alternator on one of my (stock powered) cars. It never hit the ground but I couldn't find it anywhere. It was a thin little 5/16" nut. Well, I figured out where it was as soon as I drove the car because I was getting engine noise big time in the body of the car. So I got out the light and a mirror on a stick and looked some more...there it was stuck between the oil pan and the front x-member! and the motor mounts were good. they don't have to have that much clearance. I've got about 1/8" clearance between my right Valcve cover and the firewall, but the direction the engine moves when it does it doesn't hit it.
Your engine is going to lift away from the box on acceleration.

[SimonSez]

Is your engine front mounted ??

The SBC in my wife's car is mounted with a Hurst front mount and new rubber biscuits and it hardly rocks at all when running.

You should be fine with that much clearance. If it turns out that your mounts are a little soft, you could replace them with UHMW plastic like C9 has done.

[Rocket88]

What about an exhaust manifold like this? It's off an early 80's Malibu.

[fordnutz]

Offset the motor some more. It doesn't know it isn't centered and will work fine. My buddy does that in all the ones he builds and hasn't had a problem.

[Fat Hack]

[ QUOTE ]

I dropped a nut replacing an alternator on one of my (stock powered) cars. It never hit the ground but I couldn't find it anywhere.

[/ QUOTE ]

Musta been one HEAVY alternator!!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

(I feel your pain, DrJ!!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif)

[Kojack]

Well, I'll go for that this weekend then... just try and scoot it over just a hair, then bolt that bastard in.

How far off center can I be before I start having problems with the rear end? I heard if it's off it can wear parts out more quickly then if it was placed right.

If it doesn't work out... do inlines need a adaptor plate for a 350 auto?

[Fat Hack]

A 250 Chevy inline six will bolt up to your tranny.

The offset engine won't hurt anything so long as driveline phase is correct...lots of vans and stuff had the entire drivetrains offset to the passenger's side. Keep the u-joints at the proper angle and you'll be fine.

[burger]

Kojack,

Here are some MAXIMUM driveshaft operating angles from my company's midship pump installation manual. This information is for fire trucks, but the same theory applies it to your car.

Driveshaft RPM / Maximum Operating Angle

5000 RPM / 3° 15'
4500 RPM / 3° 40'
4000 RPM / 4° 15'
3500 RPM / 5° 0'
3000 RPM / 5° 50'
2500 RPM / 7° 0'
2000 RPM / 8° 40'
1500 RPM / 11° 30'

Max Driveshaft RPM = [(Max Engine RPM/Highest Transmission Gear)/Rear End Ratio]

Let's say your engine spins up to 6500 RPM, .70 overdrive, and a 2.76 rear end ratio.

Max Driveshaft RPM = [(6500/.70)/2.76] = 3363 RPM

Max driveshaft angle would then be 5 degrees, 0 seconds.

Once you've got your driveshaft RPM, make some measurements, figure out your angle, and see if you're safe. It's very common for truck builders to install our pumps a few inches off center.



Hope this helps,
Ed

[38Chevy454]

Just move the tailshaft of the trans over an equal amount to the engine, so that the egnine is still parallel with the frame. I think the up and over exhaust manifold is the way to go for you, although in your picture it is hard to see exactly what is going on heightwise, like DrJ said.

[burger]

PS- Those numbers are REALLY CONSERVATIVE. Have you ever noticed how severe the driveshaft angle is on a lifted 4X4?