GLASS, How to make a model a windshield frame

[continentaljohn]

Well I was working on my secret project and I needed a windshield frame for it. I checked the prices and way too much for one. So I took the one I had for the RPU and measured her up and to my suprise it the same size as 1/2 gas/water pipe.. WOW. So here we go: and this is what I came up with in the end.

[continentaljohn]

this is what I started with

[continentaljohn]

I first started but cutting the 10' gas pipe into four pieces just a few inches over size.. I was making a 10 1/2 windsheild for a model A and this is my list:
2 at 12" and 2 at 48" .. I used the chop saw..
Then I need to mill a slot with a 5/16 end mill, you also can use a cut off wheel too but I dig my mill. You will need to do this on all four parts.. What your doing is getting to a finish size of .350 full lenght slot in the pipe..

[continentaljohn]

Chop into the pipe with the end mill and finish cutting on the way back to .350 It takes a bit to do this but keep on going and heres a few tips when doing it on a mill.. To locate the next cut with out taking a nibble out of the side try this: return mill to start and blow chips away and move part foward and clamp.
Then drop down into finish slot and move to the side very slow, tear a piece of regular paper and side her in between the slot edge and cutter and just when the paper starts to grab and rip your only a few thousands away and start chopping aand milling

[continentaljohn]

Also when your moving the pipe over and shavings all over the place try this:
Use a spring to hold you riser tightly and free of moving or chips in the vice.

[continentaljohn]

Ok with all you parts slotted to .350 inches clean them up with a hand grinder and free of burrs.

[JohnnyFast]

I'm going to be milling a slot in aluminum bars for a 10" high '23 Model T windshield frame. Is .350" the groove width needed for 1/4" glass plus the U-shaped edge-rubber gasket ? I was thinking that a .312" (5/16") slot would be sufficient.

[Flathead Youngin']

This is why I love this site!!!!!! Ways to DIY and save $!!!!!! I was trying think about how much $ I'd have in a completed car and this is one of those things that can cost big jak......thanks a lot!

[continentaljohn]

Next thing to do is get your sizes and angles Top of stock model a windshield is 44 3/4 were the bottom is 43 1/2.
Well I want a 10 1/2 total height so I cut the sides at 10 1/2 with 45 degree angles.

[continentaljohn]

So with the side cut, I cut the top to a length of 44 3/16 of a inch.. It's a shorter lenght because the sides are and will be tapered 2 degrees.. So that's what I came up with. If you make a taller or shorter one you will have to adjust the lenght.. I also did the top first because the bottom had a radius of the cowl and was hard to measure.. The top was easy 2 degrees with the top flairing out.. Here's a great little fixture I came up with..

[continentaljohn]

Also when cutting you 45 degree angles when you do put the part into the vice of the chop saw it centers itself because of the slot so its easy!

[continentaljohn]

With the bottom I bent the radius with a vise and just tweeked it a bit every 6" till it matched my cowl radius.. With a 2" rise in the center.. and cut my 45 degee ends to a total length of 43 1/2..
With my gauge or fixture I tack welded the top to the sides and then the bottom. I did have to adjust for the 2 degrees with a bit of grinding on the bottom.. Not to worry because it's going to be welded solid.. And that's what I did welded the bottom solid.

[continentaljohn]

do both sides and grind her smooth

[continentaljohn]

Next is the bolts that hold the frame to the posts. I used the same thread that the factory used so I could use the wingnuts.. That was 3/8-24 X 1 /14 long.. I measure down and here's a little jig that help center and keep it in line. Tack weld and check to see if it good and then finish welding.

[continentaljohn]

I know what your thinking , I don't want no ugly bolt hanging out, not to worry. It's covered like the factory one

[continentaljohn]

Next thing to do is attach the top so it has to go on and off. So the glass would go in a off if ever needed. I took a 2 pieces of 1/2 wide X 1/8 thick X 3" long and bent them at a 90 degree.. I heated them so they wouldn't crack on me.

[continentaljohn]

Next I drilled a 3/8 hole into one end so I could weld thru and attach it to the top frame.

[continentaljohn]

Careful not to touch the sides with the tip you can see I nip it a bit.. OOPS when your done slide the top with the legs into the frame.

[continentaljohn]

Now it's almost done just drill a hole about a inch down from the top with a 29 drill bit or .136 for a 8-32 tap .. Drill the frame and then into the bracket. Watch the inside of the frame because the drill bits going thru. Then take it apart and tap the welded 90 bracket with a 8-32 tap and counter sink the frame hole

[continentaljohn]

then put in a flathead screw and your done.
Thanks Continentaljohn

[choprods]

Man John-Thanks-thats great TECH- I nominate it for Tech-O-Matic!!!!

[Kustm52]

Great tech post...tech-o-matic for sure. Thanks....

Brian

[LongGone]

Really nice! How much time did it take you?

Mike

[continentaljohn]

Really nice! How much time did it take you?

Mike
I would have to say a few hours, but if I had know to do the top first, a bunch faster. You know it take most of the time to figure the stuff out and get them silly ideas out and get to basics.. I really started to take a close look at the model A stuff and learned alot, simple but functional.. I'm working on some other goodies and hope to do a better job at pics and step by step.
Thanks Continentaljohn

[manyolcars]

Someone tell us how to make coupe windshield frames

[continentaljohn]

Someone tell us how to make coupe windshield frames
Sorry this one is for a roadster, whats a model a coupe frame look like? side profile?

[zman]

Awesome job....

[Petejoe]

Great work.
Very creative and definitely a techomatic post.
Thanks ! PJ

[continentaljohn]

Great work.
Very creative and definitely a techomatic post.
Thanks ! PJ
Thanks Guys, it was a fun project plus she looks real good too and save a bunch of dough..
JohnnyFast, I'm not sure why the slot is so large? I just copied the original one, I did measure the glass as well and found it to be 1/4. I know it's the same with my roadster windsheild frame. The guy who cut the glass filled the gap with silcone and and it's been good for years.... He didn't like the U-rubber and gave it back to me...
Thanks Continentaljohn

[JohnnyFast]

Thank you, CJ ! Perhaps I'll mill it to 5/16" first and give it a trial fit with the U-channel. I can always make the slot wider.

[Plowboy]

Ha Ha Ha, and when I called you earlier you said you were "working".

I knew better. Nice tech post, but I'll just call you if I need one! Hee Hee

[CAS]

Pretty darn ingenious, John.
Good job explaining the process.

[Jaypee]

Nice work, very nice.

Jaypee

[Adam F]

CJ,

Excellent post....timely as I need a new frame and certainly don't have the dough for a bought one! I just have one question :

What happens along the bottom edge of the bottom of the screen? How does the rubber strip attach to the frame?

Thanks!

Adam F

[continentaljohn]

CJ,

Excellent post....timely as I need a new frame and certainly don't have the dough for a bought one! I just have one question :

What happens along the bottom edge of the bottom of the screen? How does the rubber strip attach to the frame?

Thanks!

Adam F
Adam, the pipe has no provisions for the weather stripping on the bottom or sides but with a few simple strips of flat stock you could weld up a groove for it.. I see alot of folks just leave it out... If you would use solid stock you would be able to mill a T-slot into the bottom. Giving you a slot for the rubber strip.. But you would have to use a milling machine for this...
Thanks continentaljohn

[Adam F]

Thanks for answering my question !