HA/GR in Central Califas

[greasel]

After some intense inspiration at the Eagle Field drags and a few encounters with Leeberz/Toymaker, Kustomdlux and I are setting out to build an inline 6 HA/GR.

So far neither one of us have a dang clue about this other than being able to paint, weld and be effective enough with an engine to make it a reliable daily driver...now we're trying to figure out how we can get away with doing horrible things to the engine without it betraying us.

Step one was to make a stand for the engine to sit in while we take covers off to replace leaking gaskets, remove a 'couple' years of oily dirt smudge that I refer to as a protective coating and make sure it's somewhat mechanically sound before we build a 'car' around it.

Here's where we're at now:

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c249/jon96ctd/HAGR%20Rail/stand1.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c249/jon96ctd/HAGR%20Rail/stand2.jpg

[CenValyCali]

How far are you boys going to dig into it? Just by looking at the pics i'd say your on the right track. Def. going to need exhaust and carb combo. Any plans?

[ThingyM]

We are all here to help you any way we can. Just holler for help.. You'll have more than you can imagine.......

[greasel]

What the heck is up with the crankshaft damper on this 235?! It's not bolted on or fastened in any way, just a typical keyed, press fit shaft.

And the timing cover has two screws/bolts coming through that require the oil pan to be dropped to access them. I'm so confused.

[kustomdlux]

How far are you boys going to dig into it? Just by looking at the pics i'd say your on the right track. Def. going to need exhaust and carb combo. Any plans?

Not planing on tearing into it too far unless we find something that would make us question it. We were able to drive the truck before we pulled the motor out and it ran strong without knocks, ticks, or smoking. Gonna check compression and if it checks out, seal it up and on to the next.

[kustomdlux]

Oh yea, and we are thinking that if 1 carb is good, 3 would be better, right? That may have to come a little later, but it is in the "plans". Oh and I hear short straight pipes sound pretty good, so we will stick with something along those lines.

[bob hindman]

what size motttter....



HINEY...

[kustomdlux]

what size motttter....



HINEY...


chevy 235... at least according to the casting numbers.

[CenValyCali]

What truck?

[greasel]

It was a '52 or '53 GMC commercial truck, not sure if it was a 1.5 or 2 ton. That thing was a handful to drive, my legs didn't really fit between the steering wheel and seat. 1st gear felt like I'd revved the engine and sidestepped the clutch...in neutral. That was likely due to the 6.xx:1 rear end gears and the granny trans gear.

[ThingyM]

I'm with you on the press on damper.. I kept looking for the threads in the crank that weren't there.. If you pull it off, Use a standard damper puller, They don't just pop off.. Me thinks 2 carbs would be better than 3. Unless you add Cam, Compression, and other things.. Start out simple. Then add as you go.....Dick M BTW. Don't make your pipes too short. You'll loose alot of needed HP..Straight 6s like longer pipes. In the 25" to 30" range, 1 5/8" od

[greasel]

Me thinks 2 carbs would be better than 3. Unless you add Cam, Compression, and other things.. Start out simple. Then add as you go.....Dick M BTW. Don't make your pipes too short. You'll loose alot of needed HP..Straight 6s like longer pipes. In the 25" to 30" range, 1 5/8" od

Thanks for that. We are on the keep it simple plan for now, just making sure it's in good enough shape to run as is and we want to get the rail built first. Then we'll start tweaking the engine and doing the cool extras as we run across them. If we have to rebuild, then we'll look into higher compression pistons.

On the subject of 235's, my dad was telling me about an old work truck they had at the first shop he worked at just after he got out of the navy; he was saying they had to rebuild that thing quite a bit from the guys over-revving it on the highway...granted, it was a loader truck for a 'traditional' crop dusting operation, so I know they did unspeakable things to that truck but...are there any notable weak points on these 235's for what we're doing?

[ThingyM]

The main thing with any straight 6 is, Don't Over-rev them..They just can't be run like a V8..Unless Highly modified...And most won't stand 7 grand even when built...

[348chevy]

Get Patrick's Catalog even if you don't buy anything from him. It has a wealth of info that will help you. I think you have a late model, that is 1954 or later 235, I looked at your pictures and I didn't see the triangle on the block. If it does it is a babbit bearing and you need to be very careful if it is. The problem with those is you can't find anyone to repour the babbit for the rods. Also get a book titled Chevrolet Inline six-cylinder. There is another book that is a wealth of info but I don't remember the full title I think it is California Bill's hop up for Chevrolet six, GMC and Buick straight eight. Both can be gotten at Barnes and Noble. Patrick's Phone is 520-836-1117 and hope you get the son because if you get the old man sit down cause your going to be on the phone for a while, he loves to talk. You have just crossed over to never never land and you will soon be running down the track in an open car and you will never want another door slammer. :D Roy

[greasel]

Thanks Roy. We've got a casting #3835911, which everything I'm finding says it's a 53-55 235, some sources reference that casting number had a powerglide behind it. What triangle are you talking about, where would that be? I thought the 'babbitt pounders' were pre-53, am I wrong?

[64 DODGE 440]

You have just crossed over to never never land and you will soon be running down the track in an open car and you will never want another door slammer. :D Roy

AMEN to that comment Roy. I got to make a pass in Old6rodder's Barn Job at the Eagle Field meet and I'm hooked for life!!:D

[esfoder]

Could it be a 261? they look alike

Dusty

1.5 or 2 ton truck might have the bigger engine in it.

[nexxussian]

What number is stamped on the flat pad by the distributor? specifically interested in the first 3 digits.

[Joe Hamby]

The easiest way to tell a 235 from a 261 is to look at the oil line holes on the left side of the block, on a 235 those holes are about 3/8, and on a 261 they are 1/2 inch. You can see that even if it is covered in dirt, and can't see those captian's bars, that are on the right side to the rear of the dist. and on the left side of the block toward the front. Joe

[bobw]

The casting number greasel listed does indeed indicate a 235, according to Inliners.org.

[kustomdlux]

. Patrick's Phone is 520-836-1117 and hope you get the son because if you get the old man sit down cause your going to be on the phone for a while, he loves to talk. You have just crossed over to never never land and you will soon be running down the track in an open car and you will never want another door slammer. :D Roy



So what I'm hearing is that gearing is going to be pretty important to get the most we can out of this motor. Roy, thanks for that number for Patricks. I had found a lot in info that referenced them, but never any contact info. And I can't wait for that first run in an open car!

[leeberz]

GIT R DONE .........let the fun begin

[greasel]

Get Patrick's Catalog even if you don't buy anything from him. It has a wealth of info that will help you. Patrick's Phone is 520-836-1117 and hope you get the son because if you get the old man sit down cause your going to be on the phone for a while, he loves to talk.

Man, I got Patrick's son on the phone and he was willing to talk to me for a while, good grief they know a lot about these inlines! It was nice to have an engine enthusiast on the phone and not a typical mail order parts salesman, that phone call was by far the most informative 15 minutes of this project, so far; and he didn't push a single product other than getting a catalog to me.

[greasel]

Well this evening didn't go completely as planned. The cranking compression was decent, 100-110 psi with the engine cold but the main bearings were sub-optimal. The rod bearings looked fine, usual even wear but the 4 main bearings were not good with a few little grooves in the crank journals.

Now I've got to talk to a local engine rebuilding machine shop and see what he thinks, maybe it won't be too bad.

And to answer some previous questions, no, it's not a babbitt pounder; it's a full pressure 235 with drop in bearings.

[kustomdlux]

A quick update on our build. We had a machine shop guy take a look at the crank and we just need new main bearings so those will be on order. Also we started work on the rails last night and started to put together the front suspension setup. It's starting to almost look like we might be building something rather than just collecting parts.

[butch nassau]

I bought a brand new set of 235 main bearings by Speed Pro for $58.00 through Advance Auto Parts.

You can do it online.

Butch

[Royalshifter]

Awesome.....I was the the pilot for ThingyM at Eagle Field and what a rush.....can't wait to do it again.

[ThingyM]

You will be Mark...Making a few changes for the better...

[bob hindman]

I make intake & ex header flanges for 235-261....

HINEY....

[greasel]

I make intake & ex header flanges for 235-261....

HINEY....

We don't have any money, is that a problem? ;)

Butch, thanks for that tip! We were looking at about $100 through Patrick's or Summit just for the mains and we need the rod bearings, too.

[Toymaker]

Greasel. Kustom, any progress?

[greasel]

Yeah, we're pluggin away on it one night a week. The brackets for mounting the rear end to the frame rails are 90% done, the front suspension tube is welded into the rails, we found a Saginaw 3 speed w/OD from my '56 chevy that now has a 700r4. I think we're ready to locate the engine and make the mounts for that now, then on to building a cage.

[Toymaker]

I hear the guys are making progress with their build, can't wait to see the results. Rocky

[ThingyM]

Get'er done Greasel.. Would love to see it at Eagle field.. Dick M..

[greasel]

The rear end is mounted and we're stoked that it turned out how we planned it! The front suspension tube is welded in, our next objectives are mounting the front axle and fabbing the engine/trans mounts. I keep meaning to post some pictures up, I do have them, I just have to get them from my camera to my computer.

[greasel]

Here are a few pictures of mounting the front axle/suspension arms:

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S5KGxL4Z7eI/AAAAAAAAADc/SDJ7_vMboTs/0302002019b2.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S5KGxFBkYDI/AAAAAAAAADg/mDZ8bR4BG5Q/0302002018b2.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S5KIFMvhDII/AAAAAAAAADo/fce2y92XoB0/s640/1123092059b.jpg

[greasel]

Mounting the rear:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S5KKxAB88yI/AAAAAAAAAD0/r9SQUHIc-6U/s640/0126001832.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S5KLNjPO5LI/AAAAAAAAAEI/NydpVC8gAnw/s640/0126001903.jpg

[bobw]

Nice to see progress on your HA/GR. Looks like the rear end is going to be your rear crossmember. Keep the pics coming.

[ThingyM]

Please don't take this as a dirogitory remark. Because I'm very glad you are building your car.. BUT, Why is everyone building their cars so heavy,?? Most guys are building their cars like they are taking them down the Baja..These chassis need to be light, But strong enough to do the job, But thats it. Weight is your enemy in these cars. Low HP. plus HEAVY= slow car. Just like any other Drag racing vehicle.
Again, This is not meant to be a sarcastic remark. Just an observation...Dick M

[greasel]

Dick, we're building the car with parts we have available and what we can afford. I had the 10 bolt posi rear axle sitting in the shop; for the front we couldn't find a car axle with all the parts that we could afford; Rocky gave us a deal on the truck axle, spindles and the extra parts, the frame rails can't be any thinner and still be strong enough.

Yes, the rear axle is a crossmember as well as the rear anchor pad for the roll cage, the front suspension tube acts as a crossmember and the engine/trans mounts will provide additional bracing, albeit less substantial than the rear. Two guys can pretty easily pick our frame up right now as is. We did ditch the truck 4 speed in favor of the lighter Saginaw three speed (which I also had sitting in the shop).

If I'm not mistaken, the point of this class is to have some good cheap fun, so we're building what we can afford. Cutting weight costs money and we are more than willing to accept parts/financial donations and sponsors to get our speed up a bit.

[348chevy]

Your Saginaw 3 speed with OD is a desirable unit for the Hot Rod crowd and is weaker than a straight 3 speed. You should be able to trade and you both will feel like you made a good deal. I can't tell from the pictures if the rearend is welded to the frame but if not you have a real safety problem because the rearend could rotate and you would be singing soprano through the lights.:( Roy

[bobw]

I was figuring if racing the dragster was fun, then over time a person could add horsepower and lose weight. Building it and getting it on the strip is job 1.

Dick is right that saving weight is as good as adding ponies. But there's that damn budget to pay attention to.

[ScottV]

I am all about the budget ... I am into it almost $3000.00 and all I have to show for it is a Model A front end, 2 - 21" Model A wheels, and a leaky snowmobile gas tank !!! Oh and a big headache from the IRS !!!:confused:

[64 DODGE 440]

If I'm not mistaken, the point of this class is to have some good cheap fun, so we're building what we can afford. Cutting weight costs money and we are more than willing to accept parts/financial donations and sponsors to get our speed up a bit.

You have it right...keep up the good work!!

[ThingyM]

Look, Like I know where you are coming from.. Iam in the same boat as all the rest of you are.. I'm a 74 yr old retired fabricator on social security. My car is just about built on my friends donations. My frame rails were made from, A mistake in the fabrication of a conveyor frame. My engine, A 194 cu in chev 6. given to me by my friend Joe. The engine has been in the corner of his garage for 15 yrs. The trans came all the way from Elm Center Kansas, Also from a friend. Oh and the carbs from the same guy.So you see, I'm right there with you..
My coment on the plate material is what I was talking about..The use of 1/4" plate and thicker..I just don't think that the steel has to be quite so heavy duty on these low horse power cars.. I also have a Fiat altered that I built back in 1999. There isn't one piece of 1/4" plate anywheres on it. This car runs in the 150s..Again, This was not meant to be head banging. just an observation that I made. Continue on, And we will se ya at the races.... Edit... Roy. That rear end couldn't rotate if it wanted to..That mount would hold a 800hp motor with no problem..Believe me... Dick M

[Toymaker]

Looks great guys, keep it up! Rocky

[duke182]

would love to see more pics. especially the front end and the cage when you get started on it.

[greasel]

I can't tell from the pictures if the rearend is welded to the frame but if not you have a real safety problem because the rearend could rotate and you would be singing soprano through the lights.:( Roy

That thought definitely went through our minds, that's why we overbuilt the crap out of the rear axle mounts. They are bolted but there's absolutely no way they're going to come apart with the power/traction we'll have available.

[greasel]

Made some more progress last night:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S5gBvPKJjJI/AAAAAAAAAFg/f--Qt_o5yOM/downsized_0309002035a.jpg

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S5gDlUHaU2I/AAAAAAAAAFs/kZ6IRS6iV_8/downsized_0309002035b.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S5gBvDcKjFI/AAAAAAAAAFk/jbhHMKZhD5k/downsized_0309002117a.jpg

[Old6rodder]

Good looking front end.
Over built rear mounts? Perhaps, but a damn sight better'n underbuilt ones. :cool:

Besides, if you should have to deal with NHRA (open bodied, dedicated design, removable, solid mount rear end, minimum; three 1/2" grade 8 bolts per side) their rules outweigh even common sense and you have'em covered.

[greasel]

At least if the front end doesn't work as good as it does in my mind, it'll still look good! :D

Another part of the reasoning in overbuilding the rear mounts is an attempt to set tech inspectors at ease.

Good looking front end.
Over built rear mounts? Perhaps, but a damn sight better'n underbuilt ones. :cool:

Besides, if you should have to deal with NHRA (open bodied, dedicated design, removable, solid mount rear end, minimum; three 1/2" grade 8 bolts per side) their rules outweigh even common sense and you have'em covered.

[Royalshifter]

Looking great....I am getting excited to run again.

[sgtlethargic]

The rear end as crossmember: Is that an original idea?

[Drewfus]

The rear end as crossmember: Is that an original idea?

No, I can think of a few examples that are like this, mine included...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/18110609net.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/18110611net.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/18110611net.jpg

When combined with a simple but effective trans mount, the whole chassis is light, and doing the front suspension like you are will be a big saving and effective.

Keep going, great to see people still having a go with what they have.

Cheers,

Drewfus

[greasel]

Here it is after messing with it on Saturday, rolling chassis with the engine/trans mounted in place, just have to add a few bolts for the engine mounts and that'll be done. Next step is the cockpit/roll cage.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S50LTXXmqMI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/dMSZ5T2J0JI/s640/0313001215.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S50LdY2yDPI/AAAAAAAAAI4/mivejtrpWas/s640/0313001533.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S50LfWN3qMI/AAAAAAAAAJE/OjqUftD37EM/s640/0313001622.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S50Ltcub_qI/AAAAAAAAAJY/jKwLEEpZLkY/s640/0313001624.jpg
:D:eek:;):):D:):cool:

[ThingyM]

That will be one neat little hot rod when you get it finished..Plan on alot of fun with it.....

[Old6rodder]

Rollin', rollin', rollin, get them dogies rollin, ................... :D

Definitely a "feels good" stage, ain't it? :cool:
Looking good, too.

I rather like that second shot, with someone's feet exiting the camera's field of vision rapidly.
No need to be nervous, we seldom get Fresno wanted posters this far south. :p

[bobw]

Your front end looks very sanitary. Trimming the spindles and the junk off the axle and drilling holes in the axle helps a lot. Using the torsion bar (what kind is it?) adds to the overall neatness of the front.

Looking forward to your roll cage design.

[greasel]

Absolutely, if pushing it out the door was so much fun, I can't imagine what firing it up or letting the clutch out is gonna be like!!
Definitely a "feels good" stage, ain't it? :cool:
Looking good, too.

Thanks, it's a VW suspension tube; there's two tubes on the front end of a VW with a square stack of leaf springs inside the torsion tube. We cut the tubes, arms and springs all apart and welded it back together, it was pretty labor intensive to get that front end put together...funny how some simple looking things take just as much work as the complex stuff.
Your front end looks very sanitary. Trimming the spindles and the junk off the axle and drilling holes in the axle helps a lot. Using the torsion bar (what kind is it?) adds to the overall neatness of the front.

Looking forward to your roll cage design.

[Drewfus]

Trimming the spindles and the junk off the axle and drilling holes in the axle helps a lot.

so are you planning to weld a steering arm onto what's left of the stub?

I know you've just got the engine temporarily sitting there, you might want to slide it forward a bit as that i'm rather cramped into my my cage, which is a good thing, and you do get used to it, but in hindsight it would be just that much more comfortable if I had another 3" more.....(no puns intended...:rolleyes:;):D)

Looking good,

Drewfus

[greasel]

Not much build progress last night but we figured out the layout of the roll cage, should be able to get the tubing we need and borrow a tubing notch tool by next Tuesday.

[Toymaker]

It's really great to see you guys getting it together!

[Toymaker]

Greasel and KustumDlux came by this week and we got the cage bend. The car is really coming along and being built by a talented crew!

[40WILLYSCRAZY]

Hi: Count me in. My dad was the starter at raisin city drag strip. My grandmother had sewn the flag that he started the cars off in. He was replaced by the christmas tree light at the strip and by then he was too busy for it anyway. I would like to know who is in charge of this event. My old man has a million stories and raced at hammer field long before raisin city. Bryan....

[ThingyM]

Our very own.. "Toymaker" Rocky Phillips...Right here on this board..

[kustomdlux]

Rocky, thanks again for all your help bending that cage. But I must admit, out build has often felt more like monkeys with wrenches rather than a "talented crew". Hopefully this week we will get the seat started and maybe get the cage tacked into place. I really can't wait to get to put my foot down in this thing.

[Toymaker]

I dunno, you read a tape pretty good!:D

[greasel]

Greasel and KustumDlux came by this week and we got the cage bend. The car is really coming along and being built by a talented crew!

Well we just stopped by so we could help you set your bender up for 1 5/8":D. Really, though, thanks for the help bending those. We got the hoop and backbone in place, having some trouble fitting the two side tubes but will get it knocked out pretty soon. We also found a top loader trans that might make things a lot easier for us.


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S8ZNhYPtQCI/AAAAAAAAAKc/vataLAlAAGc/railrolloverstruct.jpg

[Toymaker]

Well we just stopped by so we could help you set your bender up for 1 5/8":D. Really, though, thanks for the help bending those. We got the hoop and backbone in place, having some trouble fitting the two side tubes but will get it knocked out pretty soon. We also found a top loader trans that might make things a lot easier for us.


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S8ZNhYPtQCI/AAAAAAAAAKc/vataLAlAAGc/railrolloverstruct.jpg
NOW I have to go and redo our cage:rolleyes: Looks great, how about a side and 3/4 view from the front:D

[ScottV]

Yes Rocky, please more detail photos !!! That is the look that I want for the main hoop.

Thanks, ScottV

[348chevy]

I'm trying too figure out how you guys are running a cage like that at NHRA tracks. I am adding about 50 lbs more steel to my cage to meet NHRA specs and yours looks alot less steel than mine. :confused:Roy

[Toymaker]

I'm trying too figure out how you guys are running a cage like that at NHRA tracks. I am adding about 50 lbs more steel to my cage to meet NHRA specs and yours looks alot less steel than mine. :confused:Roy
They still have two pieces to add (making it a 5 pt) plus the helmet bars.

[greasel]

Yep, we've got two more pieces for the rollover hoop and a couple more pieces on the sides. We're going by an NHRA rulebook, which is pretty clear on what to do.

[greasel]

:D Progress. It's gonna take a while but I'm more comfortable TIG welding those joints, I'm just not good enough on the mig to do compound curves with vertical variations.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S9JP4GC_h-I/AAAAAAAAALI/eXhgYBiCni0/s640/0420001905a.jpg

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_JSJW-nXtecY/S9JP8OzhHpI/AAAAAAAAALQ/Li23W4AykKw/s640/0420002115.jpg

[Toymaker]

Damn that looks good! :D

[Drewfus]

Damn that looks good! :D

Ditto, out of curiousity, how wide is your chassis at the rear?

Cheers,

Drewfus:)

[Katuna]

Ditto, out of curiousity, how wide is your chassis at the rear?

Cheers,

Drewfus:)

That sounds a bit personnal, doesn't it?

[Toymaker]

Ditto, out of curiousity, how wide is your chassis at the rear?

Cheers,

Drewfus:)
26" OD Drewfus.

[Drewfus]

Thanks for that, comparing radius of cages, interesting to note that most of our cages are only 1" wider....we need a diet:D

That sounds a bit personnal, doesn't it?

We're all family here...;):D

Cheers,

Drewfus

[64 DODGE 440]

Thanks for that, comparing radius of cages, interesting to note that most of our cages are only 1" wider....we need a diet:D


We're all family here...;):D

Cheers,

Drewfus

If it makes ya feel any better, the rear of our chassis measures 36".:p

[greasel]

Thanks for that, comparing radius of cages, interesting to note that most of our cages are only 1" wider....we need a diet:D

Thanks for answering, Rocky, I was going to have to wait to get back to the shop and measure it 'cause I didn't remember.

Our cage *may* be that wide specifically to fit me...that could just be speculation, though.

[greasel]

On order: crank/rod bearings, aluminium timing gears, shop manual, safety harness and c-clip eliminator.
*My order from Patrick's just got here, so now I have an engine to put together!

We have a complete cage, bare cockpit(no seat/controls), no driveshaft...and 20 days with our real jobs taking priority to get this thing done. Any bets?

[bobw]

Man, I sure hate to bet against you, but, your plate is really full. I know I couldn't do it, but then, I'm old and slow.
Bob's Building Law is: When you think you're half done, you're one quarter done, when you think you're three quarters done, you're half done, etc.

I'm pulling for ya though.

[64 DODGE 440]

Man, I sure hate to bet against you, but, your plate is really full. I know I couldn't do it, but then, I'm old and slow.
Bob's Building Law is: When you think you're half done, you're one quarter done, when you think you're three quarters done, you're half done, etc.

I'm pulling for ya though.

And when you think you are 90 percent done there is all of that little stuff that takes forever.

Having scratch built an aircraft from plans I have a little experience on this front.:eek:

[motorgod7]

Great work guys, keep it up!

[Skip Pipes]

I've got a Harbor Freight pipe bender (kinker) and I'm wondering how you created the smooth, nice, larger radius bends for your roll cage? I'm using the 1 1/4 die on 1 5/8 OD tube (fits nice) but the radius is tight and it slightly collapses the tube. There's lots of forum references for this bender and most are not too kind, however, there's also a recommendation for a center strap to stop the collapsing. I didn't find any info on increasing the radius. I tried segment bending but it didn't turn out well. I've got a JD2 for other projects, but the radius is too tight and modern looking for this car. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks - Skip Pipes

[Joe Roseberry]

Welcome to the 153624 group. I am no expert but I do have some experience with these beasts and have parts to share.........Joe

[Toymaker]

I've got a Harbor Freight pipe bender (kinker) and I'm wondering how you created the smooth, nice, larger radius bends for your roll cage? I'm using the 1 1/4 die on 1 5/8 OD tube (fits nice) but the radius is tight and it slightly collapses the tube. There's lots of forum references for this bender and most are not too kind, however, there's also a recommendation for a center strap to stop the collapsing. I didn't find any info on increasing the radius. I tried segment bending but it didn't turn out well. I've got a JD2 for other projects, but the radius is too tight and modern looking for this car. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks - Skip Pipes
Skip, I built the bender we used on this car starting with a piece of pipe bent in a Harbor Frieght bender. Much to long of a project to try to explain:D Rocky

[ThingyM]

When bending pipe on one of those "Harbor Freight Benders" Use some good moly lube on the die, So the tube can slide a bit when in the bending mode.. We do this at work..It helps a bunch..

[Skip Pipes]

Thanks Rocky.

After ruining 5 test pieces I figured there were modifications and not technique that made it work. I even built a die follower to limit collapsing, but to no avail. I tried segment bending and lube, which was a pain, but worked; however, it collapsed the tube more that I liked and thought I could get to pass tech.

So I just pulled out the JD2 bender and went with the tighter radius. Sometimes you gotta go with what you know.

Thanks,
Skip Pipes

[Toymaker]

Look forward too gettin' a look at it soon!

[Toymaker]

Any updates?

[kustomdlux]

No major progress, but work is still being done on the car. We will post more pics once a little more visible progress has been made.

[Toymaker]

No major progress, but work is still being done on the car. We will post more pics once a little more visible progress has been made.
Thanks Danny!

[greasel]

We got new main/rod bearings installed, took a bit of time to mess with the shims under the main bearing caps and the plasti-gauge fun times. Installed an aluminum cam gear in place of the OEM fiber gear and found a few slightly bent pushrods. Now the oil pan, timing cover and side cover are all permanently installed, we even remember to put the oil pump in before the pan went on!!

The only visible difference in all that work is that now there's not a crankshaft in a box on the floor.