56 Chevy with 59-64 Chevy rear suspension ??

[Baumi]

Some sick thoughts about my 56 chevy 2dr have been wandering through my brain for a while . Why not drop the factory leaf springs out and install a 59 to 64 Chevy rear suspension .
At first I was thinking about a 4-link and then I changed my mind when I checked out my 62 Impala´s rear suspension.
I run a pretty strong 327 sbc in the 56 and I don´t like the hopping and the lack of traction of my rearend as it is now.
It doesn´t look that dumb to me as the factory originally used the same suspension on the 409 chevys.
Here´s a drawing of my 56 frame as it is now(black lines).The later Chevy parts are marked red. Am I on the wrong side of life??Has anyone done that before?
Should I better find a good doctor? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Just Gary]

That's a fair amount of welding/fabrication, even if you use a kit.

I assume you/ve already exhausted ALL efforts to correct the existing parallel leaf spring suspension (i.e. slapper bars, weight redistribution, adjusting tire pressure, etc.)

[40StudeDude]

I don't think you need a doctor...just a good donor car...I, too, have thot that maybe this was a cheap (read that "inexpensive") way to get a better ride...so much so, that I'm measuring up the Caddy frame I have now to see if it'll work...my local boneyard has a ton of these set-ups laying around.

Go for it!
R-

[Baumi]

Thanks!I don´t mind welding, it gives a healthy color to my face.But I prefer welding overhead. The big sparks make me dance sometimes... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
It´s good to hear that I´m not alone with this idea. I´ve bought a rear half of a 60 El Camino frame along with all the parts I need for 150 Euros,that´s about 180 US$, which is supposed to be pretty cheap or inexpensive.
The angle of the home made rear crossmembers have been set excatly like the X- frame angle.All the crossmembers and links are already welded in, my next step is to weld in the brackets.
What do you think I´ll have to take care of?How can I make sure, that the axle will be aligned correctly?
Is there anything about the driveshaft I should know??
40StudeDude, in what kind of car are you going to drop the caddy rear suspension?

[40StudeDude]

Baumi,
Guess you misread my post...I have a '48 Caddy that I'm measuring for a '64 Chevy rear-end set-up...it now has leaf springs...I think the ride would be better using a set-up similar to what you are doing...and it'd be easier to install airbags.

I, too, need more specifics on centering, driveshaft, etc...take lots of measurements I guess.
R-

[Baumi]

Oh, I thought you were going to put a x-frame and coil spring type caddy rear( like my 62 caddy) into something else. Thanks for removing the fog in my head http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
In my 56 it´s about the airbags ,too.I want it to be fast,low and well driving. You see, christmas is near , I´ve lots of wishes.
Are you going to use the stock caddy axle welding all the brackets to it or would you rather mount the 64 rear as it is? I´m not already sure about that because I don´t know whether the 59-64 axle is wider than the 56 item.

[40StudeDude]

The plan at this point is to use the '64 axle/rear-end...toss the ancient Caddy unit. The '64 unit is wider than the '56 (and I think anything after '58 was)...but my Caddy has a rear trak width of 63 inches so I shouldn't have any problems there.
R-

[Baumi]

BTTT
Has anyone done that before?

[DrJ]

I think I'd go with the '60-'66 Chevy Truck rear suspension.
It still works for NASCAR!

[38Chevy454]

You are essentially making a two-link rear suspension. As long as the crossmember and the mounts are welded in place straight and with good welds it should work.

Like DrJ said, the 60-66 Chevy trucks use that suspension design for years as well as the 59-64 GM cars.

[Hackerbilt]

Didn't the 409 chevy have a 3 link suspension that was known for ripping out the single top link? Use the leaf suspension or a factory style 4 link swap if you need strength.
Your traction is still gonna be iffy with a factory 4 link because the angles are wrong for planting the tires.
On the Mustang and Fairmont street/strip cars my buds and I built we would use a fabricated 9" housing mated to the factory Fox chassis lower rear arms and fabbed upper arms with higher axle mounting points. Poormans drag 4 link!
It worked, was smooth and quiet and the competition couldn't figure how we were getting better launches then them with just a "Stock" suspension!
Ahhhh...the good 'ol days! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Bill

[Baumi]

Thanks , that´s much more info than I ´ve expected! You´re great!!
I didn´t know by now that this kind of suspension is being used on Nascars! I guess it can´t be that wrong for my 56 then... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Bill , I have also been thinking about the correct angle a lot. The only thing I´m pretty sure about is that the links have to be placed at an angle that will push the ass up when you step on the gas. The hub of the axle should be lower than the front pushrod brackets that are welded to the frame I guess.What angle would be ok, what´d be too much?

[cornfieldrodder]

Why not just use traction bars that are the same length as the foward portion of the leaves. Pivot them at the frame , runing parralell to the line between the leaf eye and spring pad. The set up is similar to 70s Mopar leaf-link set ups. No traction problems there. Its got to be easier too

[Shiva69]

Why dont you check out using either compitition engineering
"slide o links"

or caltracs

here is a link to DIY the caltracs
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

Garth

[Hackerbilt]

I don't think NASCAR is using 60 Chevy car style suspension Baumi...They use a setup based on the later Chevy coil spring truck suspension. That uses two I beam like angled control arms, U-bolted to the rear axle and pivoting close to the trans output. A Panhard rod controls sidesway.
That setup is too long to provide proper tuning for drag racing but is very stable and strong for a street car. It would last forever and would be real easy to bag if you later went that route.

That 60 EC frame...2 lower control arms and a mid mounted upper triangular link to control torque and side sway? Not a bad design that is still in use today on various SUV's. You could make that work too!
The 409s had a different design I think...(not really into the early 60's Chevys myself so I could be very wrong!) they used a Panhard bar to control side location, not a triangular upper link. The triangular upper link has the added benefit of spreading the torque load over a broader area of the crossmember, thus helping to eliminate torn mounting points.

I'd think very hard before I decided to open the can of worms that is a REAL Drag Racing setup. Lots of math involved to get the required angles where they need to be. You can't just assume on pivot locations because you'll never get it right. (Books have been written!!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif) Done correctly for a straight line it can also compromise the use of the car on the street and you DON'T want that!

Bill

[chickenridgerods]

The '58-64 X-frame cars used a 3 link rear with a panhard bar. The lower control arms were triangulated and the upper arm was parallel to the driveshaft mounted off to the passenger side of the pumpkin. If you're putting down lots of power. There are some places that have bracketry to mount a second upper arm which would help out some. (http://www.bruneauperformance.ca/product.html)

It really isn't a design I'd try to retro fit to a different car. You'd be much better off just going with a regular parallel or triangulated 4 link style suspension or the truck arm style used in NASCAR.