Frame material?

[Tackett]

I'm starting work on a '48 Ford F1 pickup that was planned on being turned into a streetrod by my dad 20 years ago. I get to save it from death by streetrodization.

In any case, all I have is a body and bed; no frame. My brother is giving me a front clip from a Z-28, as well as a rear end. Yeah, it isn't exactly traditional, but it's free - and that'a big part of traditional rods too.

Anyway, I need to mate the front subframe to some sort of frame rails. I was thinking of using 2x4 or 2x6 tubing with 3/16" wall thickness.

It'll be getting a mild smallblock of some sort, and won't be doing much hauling (perhaps a few old bikes and tool boxes on the way to the dry lakes).

Anybody have thoughts and opinions for what material to use?

Thanks,
Tackett

[HotRod31]

I would suggest the 6" instead of 4". I use 2x5 11 ga. on my A models, works good for me.

Later, Mark

[CharlieLed]

3/16ths is mighty heavy, especially for box. Go lighter on the guage and taller on the height. 2x6 is plenty....

[choprods]

whats simpler and cheaper than grafting that subframe to the existing "center frame" of the old truck?think of the time saved if nothing else..........

[Tackett]

>> HotRod31 - I would suggest the 6" instead of 4". I use 2x5 11 ga. on my A models, works good for me.

If I remember, 11 ga is .120, which would drop the weight by 150+ lbs. I like that.
What engine is in your A? I want a nice, stiff frame that doesn't twist too much with small block power.

>> choprods - whats simpler and cheaper than grafting that subframe to the existing "center frame" of the old truck?think of the time saved if nothing else..........

As far as I know, there's isn't any frame at all. But I'm not sure what the bottom of the cab of a '48 looks like - are you saying that there's a "center frame" as part of the cab? Damn, that would be cool.

The truck's at my dad's place in Oregon, and I'll be getting it at Christmas.

When I'm there, I want to finish the difficult part of the chop, then mount the rear end to my frame rails and get a "trailer" plate from the DMV. Load/bolt the cab and front end to it and tow it home with the exta parts in the bed.

The tough part of the chop is the 2" above the doors. He's a hell of a body guy, and it looks good now - it just needs everything except the chop.

Here's a few shots of it.
Photos here (http://liberalredneck.org/gallery/48Ford)

[choprods]

OOOOOOOH-I assumed the old frame was cut off at cowl [for a sub job]-you do have to start from scratch http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

[fordiac]

might be easy to find a 48-52 truck frame to set that body on...

if you dont find one, youd have to fab up all the cab mounts and runningboard mounts if you have boards. sounds like alot of work, i would find a frame...

might even buy a rust bucket truck just for that frame section. most of these old frames are still real solid, but the body is gone...

but youre in CA, im in OH,, it is different here

[NealinCA]

You might check with Ray at Superior Speed in San Luis Obispo.

Last time I was there, they had an F-1 cab and frame sitting on the ground, bare frame and cab. I bet it could be had pretty easily and it would be on your way home from Oregon.

Give him a call if you want, tell him Neal from the HAMB sent you.

Superior Speed
445 Prado Road, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401
(805) 545-7688

[sawzall]

I'd vote for the stock frame as well... if you can find one.. I wasnt able to locate one in the "time" I allotted for my project (I have a 48 f1 as well) so I did a full frame swap. My truck now sits on a 67 - 72 chevy truck frame.

the bottom of the cab is pretty much perfectly FLAT. if you decide to use the subframe you'll need to mock the front clip in position while you build the chassis. remember on these trucks the LOWEST point is the rear portion of the front fender.. email me if you want any photos of my frame swap..

oh and PS if you find a stock frame you can now buy a bolt in crossmember for a mustang 2

[el Roach]

Hey Tackett, I think I met you at Paso this year....right?
You were with Jet Fuel and me and my buddy had the 27 roadster pickup! Anyway, if you're gonna be up in Oregon at Christmas, come on up the road a little more to Wash and I've got a 48 F-2 cab and frame (same cab as yours) on tires that roll I'll sell ya for $300! pm me if ya want.
BTW, your project looks like a great start!!
Rick

[Tackett]

[ QUOTE ]
might be easy to find a 48-52 truck frame to set that body on...

if you dont find one, youd have to fab up all the cab mounts and runningboard mounts if you have boards. sounds like alot of work, i would find a frame...

might even buy a rust bucket truck just for that frame section. most of these old frames are still real solid, but the body is gone...

but youre in CA, im in OH,, it is different here

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah, being in Cali is great - most of the time. Finding old car stuff is easy, but guys want a lot of cash for it.

Fabbing cab/board/bed mounts doesn't seem like it should be too much work, but I've never done it - so of course it's easy. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I have to be a little carefull of how much crap I bring home, as my yard isn't that big and I need all the space I can get. But I'll think about buying an old frame. I'll probably get a lot of shit for it here, but the idea of running a modern front end is one I like. Having this thing handle well would be very, very nice - and a buddy is trying to talk me into building it so I could go to (road course) track days if I wanted. I love road trips, and being able to do a 500 or 700 mile day is important to me.

My daily driver is a 7,500 pound 4x4 with a utility bed and a Cummins turbodiesel (with 375 hp & 800 fl/lb of torque) - it's fun in a straight line, but I want to drive something that enjoy more.

Thaks again for the input,
Tackett

[Tackett]

[ QUOTE ]
Hey Tackett, I think I met you at Paso this year....right?
You were with Jet Fuel and me and my buddy had the 27 roadster pickup! Anyway, if you're gonna be up in Oregon at Christmas, come on up the road a little more to Wash and I've got a 48 F-2 cab and frame (same cab as yours) on tires that roll I'll sell ya for $300! pm me if ya want.
BTW, your project looks like a great start!!
Rick

[/ QUOTE ]

Yup, that was me.
Where's Heaven, Washington?

Tackett

[El Caballo]

That would be the glorius Tri-Cities.

BTW el Homo Roach, I gots yer money, I just need to get the item in question from your pad to mine.

[Tackett]

[ QUOTE ]
Sawzall>>
(I have a 48 f1 as well) so I did a full frame swap. My truck now sits on a 67 - 72 chevy truck frame.

email me if you want any photos of my frame swap..

[/ QUOTE ]

Hmmmm. I have an '86 Chevy half ton that more or less runs. I'd love to see the pictures of the frame swap, as I'm going to think about putting the '48 onto the '86 (hell, it runs, has brakes, seats, pretty much everthing I'd need).

You can send pictures to "tackett (at) liberalredneck.org"

Thanks

[286merc]

Model A used 11 gauge and the 53 F100 used 3/16, dont know what the F1 used. You will be coming in around 3000 lbs ready to drive so I would think 3/16 would be the better choice if you cant locate a useable original.

The stock ladder frame is designed as a twister and the cab is the only thing that gives it rigidity. This was a straight axle vehicle remember.

The Z28 however is a rigid design and when performing the graft it is done at the worst possible place, right at the cab and removing the #2 crossmember. Even done by a pro that joint is prone to cracking since the two frame sections are not compatible in function.
Throw in all the problems involved of hanging sheet metal, radiator and bumpers and you might want to change your mind. Not to mention that you remove the VIN during the swap.

If you want an IFS there are several choices starting with the M11 being offered by HAMBs own ElPolacko. It is the only one I know of that is designed from scratch for a F1. Or he can provide a dropped straight axle if you want to go old style.

[james]

I might catch some flak for this, but seems like a cheap way (and at least easier than trying to make your own) is to find an s-10 frame. You still have to fab body mounts and all, but that's alot easier then making sure the sub frame is square, plumb and level with a homemade frame that also has to be square and level, and also needs all the mounts fabbed. They're cheap and plentiful.

[Tackett]

[ QUOTE ]
I might catch some flak for this, but seems like a cheap way (and at least easier than trying to make your own) is to find an s-10 frame. You still have to fab body mounts and all, but that's alot easier then making sure the sub frame is square, plumb and level with a homemade frame that also has to be square and level, and also needs all the mounts fabbed. They're cheap and plentiful.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hmmmm. Hadn't ever thought of an S-10, because it seems like it would be smaller than an F1. I'll need to measure the frame of my '86 Chevy and see how close it is.

Thanks.

[BELLM]

286merc speak truth. Listen to him, save much heartache and hand wringing later on. Seriously.

[james]

If you want stock, here's a 52'--
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2441173820&category=62 21