Help me asess this gasket head thing... I'm a lil dumb...

[burndup]

Ok, well, this pretty much hasta be the reason I had water in cyl #2 (327" sbc)

http://photo.starblvd.net/~burndupcrx/3-4-1.jpg?i=1069449156&pw=*173D3FA57599

But I also had water in #8, and the gasket doesn't look nearly as bad... is this just due to the extra pressure in places where it shouldnta been? Also, When I took out the bottom row of headbolts, water came outta there (ok, I mean coolant...) zat normal?

http://photo.starblvd.net/~burndupcrx/3-4-2.jpg?i=1070687117&pw=*74643FA6A62F

why are the water passages in the head and block so big, and the ones in the gasket so small?


Ok, I think I finally figured out the camel hump thing, its been a mystery to me.

uhm, I know this isnt gonna be scientific, but how do these margins look on the valves?
http://photo.starblvd.net/~burndupcrx/3-3-3.jpg?i=1070681430&pw=*3003FA6A686


What is going on here with my combustion making the coloration like it is... anything bad? obviously the rust was the cylender that was wet while I drove for a mile and a half... and then let it sit four days before I had a chance to tear it down and clean it out... #8 at the top

http://photo.starblvd.net/~burndupcrx/3-3-4.jpg?i=1070686238&pw=*B153FA6A749

and heres just a shot of the bores before I doused em with marvel and cleaned them up... (yes, got rid of the rust) no ridge! I can't see crosshatching anymore, but they look good otherwise...

http://photo.starblvd.net/~burndupcrx/3-3-5.jpg?i=1069021166&pw=*F4D3FA6A7B8


How should I clean the heads and the block up? carefully with a razor blade?

Should I have the heads hot tanked? Can I check em myself for straightness with straightedges and feeler gauges? Interested when I pull the other side, theres one chamber the gets quite oily... I don't see valve guide seals... is there a possibility I don't have em?

How much would a shop charge me to clean(tank), inspect and replace the seals? Anybody around burbank?

WHat kinda stuff is used to seal the gasket? I see copper shtuff here... is "gaskacinch" sufficient, or should I get sumpthin more hi tek? why?

Is it possible to get a real thick gasket to lower my c/r? Thing is just a driver... and likes to ping.

Any other advice?

Thanks,
J

[53choptop]

I had the same problem with water leakage, I can answer a couple of questions about the leaking, I hope. In my case, also double pump heads, I had to get the heads worked on 4 times before it was right, the head seemed to have been “cut” and a one way then the other, not in one direction which the machinist says prevented the surface from being level.
…..

“How should I clean the heads and the block up? carefully with a razor blade?”

Yes, then use silicone/grease remover to get it clean

”Should I have the heads hot tanked? Can I check em myself for straightness with straightedges and feeler gauges? Interested when I pull the other side, theres one chamber the gets quite oily... I don't see valve guide seals... is there a possibility I don't have em?”

Hot tanked? If you can afford it, I tried everything in the book to check the straightness of my heads but it became almost impossible to find out, a straight edge works, but can be deceiving, after 3 trips to the machine shop, and 3 sets of gaskets ruined, we finally got it. Machine shop guy sprayed the head with paint and flat sanded the fucker…. I am not complaining cause the guy did it for free…

If you do have an oily chamber, replace all valve guide seals, cheap insurance,

”How much would a shop charge me to clean(tank), inspect and replace the seals? Anybody around burbank?”

??

”WHat kinda stuff is used to seal the gasket? I see copper shtuff here... is "gaskacinch" sufficient, or should I get sumpthin more hi tek? why?”

I would suggest you not use anything, get fel-pro perma-torque gaskets, those are pretty good and fairly inexpensive. Copper seals I think is for really mainly for racing.

I ruined 3 sets of gaskets messing around with the same leaking problem, the first 2 times I used the same gasket twice, big mistake, bought a new set, still leaking, however it was not the gaskets fault, was tempted to use the sealer but was warned against it..Todays gaskets are pretty hi tek themselves.

”Is it possible to get a real thick gasket to lower my c/r? Thing is just a driver... and likes to ping.”

Thicker gaskets for a driver may not help with the c/r or pinging.


“Any other advice?”

Take it to a machine shop, take the gasket and ask them the exact same questions you asked here.

Hope it helps, again the best thing to do is go to a machine shop, I tried avaiding that as long as I could, but, just ended up wasting $$ on gaskets.

Rey

[SKR8PN]

You have a VERY bad habit you need to break........DO NOT lay nuts,bolts or other parts INSIDE an engine you have opened up like that......Get that shit outta there and lay it on a bench........You ever fuck up and leave one where it AIN'T supposed to be,it WILL cost you an engine.......

[Bruce Lancaster]

On the pinging, is this a points distrib or an HEI?
Pinging is often caused on Chevies by running a vacuum can from a car with EGR on a non-EGR setup--the vac advance is about twice what it needs to be. If your pinging happens at part throttle cruise and light accel, and goes away when you stomponit, look at the mount for the vac can. It will have some part numbers and usually a number indicating degrees of advance--you want one that is in the 10-12 area, an EGR one will be like 22. If it's an HEI, the only junkyard source will be bigger trucks with no EGR. If points, you just need an older one.

[Luckypabst]

I like to use Copper coat on my head gaskets - copper gaskets or fiber ones. I spray both sides of the gasket, the head and the cylinder deck, let it set up for a few minutes and slap it together. Many gaskets require re-torquing after a heat/cool cycle, some don't - it's a good idea to go over the bolts anyhow.

For cleaning gasket surfaces, I like to use a scotch-brite roloc surface conditioning disc. They look like little 3" diameter super scrubby pads but are quite abrasive. I think harbor freight may have something similar. You can mount it in your drill motor but I use a right angle die grinder. Be careful with a die grinder though as they will remove metal if you're not careful.

Chris

[Revhead]

I looked at the other posts and didn't see an answer, but YES water comming out of the lower row of head bolts is normal. Make sure you use thread sealant on all the bolts when you put it back together.

Also I found that those plastic wire brush things for drills clean up combustion chambers real fast with no risk off messing anything up. I also clean up my pistons with them.

[burndup]

Rockers and rods got tossed into a bag... and counted before then! Thats all that was in the valley...

HEI distrib... need to take a moment when I have it and reread that reply... didn't get it... (on my lunch, I mean, dinner break...)

Thanks!

[burndup]

Ok, bruce, I think you nailed it... those are my symptoms, specially when pulling up a hill.

I also think that the diz was recurved by an... uhm, novice.

Initial timing when I bought it was 0 deg, haven't messed with it ever.

what about an aftermarket vacuum can?

Anybody have any thoughts about the inconsistant color of the soot on my exhaust valves?

What kind of $ am I looking at if I just drag them over to a machine shop and say "Here ya go, rebuild 'em?" I know they prolly don't need it but just curious.

Also, is there anything inherent to the castings telling me which one is left or right? otherwise I gotta mark one of em...

Don't really have anyone to pop over and tell me what I need to know, so you guys are a great help!

Thanks
J

[Deyomatic]

I'm not sure, but I would say that the white exhaust valve, if it is anything like a white spark plug, means that it was really lean in that cylinder. If the rules of spark plugs apply, white = hot.