Clearing over striping

[Tony Bones]

How does one do this? Do you scuff everything w/ 1000, have it striped, then spray clear over?

[slammed]

One way is base/clear, wet sand, stripe it, clear, wet sand, buff!

[Barn-core]

If you are using One Shot you should mix it with the same catalyst you are using for the clear. HOK striping paints are made to be cleared over.

[Bass]

Yep, well... sorta.

Sand the part your planning on striping. You can use 1000 grit...but anything more agressive than 800 and the clear won't "melt" the sanding scratches. Clean with wax and grease remover, then stripe.

Use a small amount of hardener in the One Shot...I usually use PPG urethane hardeners, but the hardener for the clear you'll be using will work fine. A good acrylic enamel reducer can be used to reduce, but when I'm clearing over striping, I use lacquer thinner personally....some don't like it becuase it's hard on the brushes. I use mineral spirits any other time, but it slows the drying / flash time of the One Shot which I believe ends up working against you.

After you are done striping, and are absolutely positive you don't want to make any changes, then apply the clear in two very light coats to start. After that you can apply the rest of the clear as normal to bury the work. Be sure you apply enough material to cut and buff to get a glass-like surface.

Good luck.

[Bass]

A couple side notes I'll add:

One...I've used the One Shot brand "hardener". It's expensive and doesn't work any better than any other urethane hardener/ catalyst. My opinion.

Two...the House of Kolor striping urethanes are good for work that's going to be cleared over. But if you are used to the way One Shot works and feels, you'll be better off using One Shot and adding hardener. Again, my opinion.