This may seem like old hat to some of you but.....Boneville

[Roothawg]

I still haven't been able to shake the Salt Flats bug. I really wanna build a car to take out there.

So here's the question.

What kinda speeds could a guy obtain out of a car that could be driven daily and then taken to the flats?

The car I think would be the most to my liking has probably the most competetion. I like the idea of a 26-27 roadster. The only thing is that a Bonneville car is pretty much just that. Can't really sell one at a later date except to another flats racer.Is theree such thing as a dual purpose car? I really don't wanna tool around in a full cage but....I hate to invest tons of money in something that I can't resell. I just wanna discuss LSR cars I guess. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Unkl Ian]

I'm guessing a bolt in cage isn't legal in a roadster.

[side_valve]

There are major rules for each class: roll cage, fire ex. system and more - I suggest getting a rule book from SCTA

http://www.scta-bni.org/

Good luck!

[tommy]

Did'nt that 32 roadster with the dual intercooled turbos compete at B'ville with a bolt in cage. I saw the car in Tenn. and if you didn't know you couldn't tell.

I had thought about a budget car just to say I competed at B'ville. I'd be embarrassed about the speeds, but how many people can say they ran Bonneville? Do you need qualifying speeds to run? I don't have the cubic cash necessary, but somebody has to be an also ran. I'd be happy with that!

[modernbeat]

Root, I think you'd have more fun, and spend less cash building an ADDITIONAL car that is built strictly to run a the lakes. Pick a small, unpouplated class and have fun.

My pick, race in MR/V4F, that's a Modified Roadster with a pre-'35 flathead 4 cylinder.

Hell, if you do it right, you might even break 100mph and make it into HopUp's elite club.

The thing is, if you have to decide why you want to do it: For fun, for bragging rights, for a record entry, or a prioritized combo of the three.

[Cword]

The name won't come to me, but there was a car campained out of Kansas (I think). Did the "Hat Trick" Ran Bonneville, Dragged, and did the Grand National Roadster Show. A little investigation into how it was run might provide some clues.
Also Jim? Kitchens C Street Roadster (San Berdoo Roadsters) just ran a 201 record during World Finals. In the Inspection line up during Speedweek Jim told us the car has been a street driven rod for 30 years.

Our truck is B'ville purpose built, and would take a fair amount of work to make comfortable for daily use.

mike

[38Chevy454]

Root, I think the requirements for safety would make it quite difficult to drive any distance on the street. I agree that the best is to investigate the SCTA rulebook and see what is required. Then figure out a class and determine then if you could actually make a car that could race and drive it on the street. You could make a car that has limited street ability and probably succeed in your goal for a street and race car in that sense.

One big thing to consider is that it has been done before. Although all of these cars to my knowledge had numerous changes between race and street trim. Still very cool to actually drive the car and race the same car.

I may be giving away a little too much info here, but originally the BFD crew was considering to build a dual purpose car, drags and salt. There was just way too many differences in car design and set-up, that made this not a practical alternative. So the BFD is a dedicated drag car.

Believe it or not, the SCTA safety requirements are tighter than NHRA. I think a salt car would have an easier time to be converted to drag than vice-versa.

[Deuce Rails]

Roothawg, here's an intersting R&C story on an east coast car:
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/featuredvehicles/53818/
Is that kind of what you're thinking? 170 mph at Muroc.

You're right. A dedicated Bonneville car is going to be more competitive than a street car. Just like in drag racing. But a drag racing car is a lot easier to resell.

Go for the dual purpose car. Maybe you won't set any records, but you'll enjoy the car a lot more. And just think how reliable it will be racing with all the road miles.

How about driving your land speed racecar to Bonneville and back? That would be pretty damn cool.

(Could you design a roll cage that you could cut out in August, and then weld back in at the end of July?)

[Tman]

Well, we are going to try. My boss is building a 34 3 window for Drag/Salt and he plans on driving it the 12 hours to get there. Frank Currie did 200+ in his street driven 32

[Roothawg]

I have an old rulebook that AV8 sent me a long time ago. I realize that safety standards are most important but I want to be able to drive this car later. I know I won't set any new records but wouldn't it be cool to have a timeslip with 160 mph pass on it for braggin rights?

[Roothawg]

Here is something I found interesting on a web page.


How to Avoid Tech Inspection Blues

Yep, you guessed it, I am the dreaded Tech Inspector. I am the one who will tell you that after all those late nights in a cold shop working diligently to get ready, after hauling yourself, your car, tarps, tires, tools, spares, a thousand miles (at least) through the snarl of urban traffic and then through the miles of deserted desert, that unless you can find or fix this or that detail, you did it all for nothing, can't let you run like that. Yeah, that's me.
I do understand that when you're standing there in the blazing sun, so far from home and your local parts store, listening to me quote scripture from the rulebook and nit-pick at the one little thing on your car that was over looked in the rush to get ready, that you must wonder why the #&%! #@ I don't want you to race. Damn inspectors anyway!
So, while the Salt flats are underwater, and its still months till racetime, and the sun isn't roasting you like an ant under a magnifying glass, lets take a calm moment to talk about this Tech Inspection thing.
First of all, I want you to know- I DO want YOU to race! Truth be told, I am your biggest fan, and most ardent supporter. I spend my vacation working at the World of Speed each year, cause I love this last living form of amateur racing. I respect the hundreds of hours of planning and fabricating that goes in to each of these incredible vehicles. I also realize that you builders/drivers/designers/owners are doing some of the most creative and innovative design work to be found anywhere today.
That said, is it that hard to remember throttle return springs? Simple as it seems, that is the most common problem I see on cars passing through Tech Inspection. Not only is it common to see engines with out the required two (2) return springs, but the book clearly states "attached directly to the throttle shaft." Yet, I see throttle return springs separated from the throttle shaft they are supposed to close by multiple shafts, pivots, rod ends, heim joints, and couplings. I know that these arrangements function adequately in the pits and can be demonstrated to work with the engine off in the Inspection Tent, but what about when the vibration of 8,000 RPM and 200 MPH shake that linkage like a dog shaking a squeaky toy? I know where you're going when you leave Tech Inspection, and I know how you drive. I need to know that even if the worst happens, and your linkage binds up or comes undone, (it does happen) that at least the throttles WILL close and give you a decent chance to drive your way out of trouble. Every year I send someone off searching in Wendover for throttle return springs; don't let this happen to you. The devil is in the details.
Another point of contention often seen in inspection are gaps and holes in the firewall. I stick my head under the dash and if I can see the sun shining through, it's a problem. When you have an under hood problem that results in fire, the 200 MPH breeze under your hood turns a small fire into a blowtorch, headed straight for you. It can be very difficult to find the proper materials to seal up firewall leaks at the Salt Flats, wouldn't it be easier to stick your head under the dash while your still at home in the shop? You know I'm gonna do it at the Salt. Again, I'm just hoping to give you an opportunity to drive your way out of trouble, without that pesky blowtorch roasting your tootsies every time you try to use the brakes.
While we're on the subject of fire protection, let's talk about your driving suit requirements. When I inspect your personal safety equipment, Flamesuit, Gloves, Boots, Helmets, Safety Harness, Rollbar padding, etc. I am not looking to critique your choice of color, or which manufacturer you chose to buy from, or whether it's shiny new or funky dirty with lots of use, I am looking for the SFI tags. That is what I need. Without it I can't tell ski gloves from the finest Nomex gloves made. I'm not the mattress police, (insert "do not remove this tag" joke here) but what I need to see is the manufacturers certification that the item meets a specific SFI standard. With out the tag, I can't tell.
Probably the next most common item of concern flagged in the Safety Inspection process is the issue of shielding the fuel line where it passes through the plane of the flywheel. This seems straightforward enough, but every year we have someone try to insist that the stainless braid covering their fuel line is adequate to meet the requirement. The book specifies "fuel lines in the area of the clutch and flywheel, shall be run through heavy steel tubing ". Does that sound like braided hose to you?
The last common item that causes problems is the venting of the fuel tank. The '99 rules have added a line to clarify this which reads, "all fuel tanks shall be provisioned to eliminate spillage in the event of a rollover." There are a couple of different ways to accomplish this, how you choose to deal with it is up to you. But you must address the issue. Make the unthinkable survivable!
These five items probably comprise 80% of the problems we see in Tech Inspection. They are seen on veteran vehicles as well as new. They are all very basic safety issues. I really do want you to run. Not only this year, but to survive to run again for many years to come. My biggest thrill each year is clocking someone new into Impound after a record run
If I were asked on how to best prepare yourself for your next visit to Tech Inspection at the Salt Flats, my advice would be this simple.
1. Before you leave for Bonneville, get your rulebook in hand and go stand next to your car and carefully read through sections 2 (II) and 3 (III) and check how each item pertains to your particular car. Pay special attention to items in BOLD text; those are the new revisions. If you aren't sure what a particular paragraph means, get some advice from someone with greater experience or ask someone from Tech Inspection. I don't know all the answers, but I will find someone who does.
2. Show up at the Inspection Tent prepared. This includes having your LOGBOOK properly filled out and up to date, and your car along with your personal safety gear ready to be looked at, (panels off, suit out, etc.).
By doing your homework in advance, you will find that we really do want you to run, Tech Inspection will be a much more pleasant process, and you won't find yourself in Wendover looking for that missing link.
See you on the Salt.
You can contact me via email at dan@saltflats.com

[Dreamweaver]

I think this would be the easiest way to go salt flat racing:

Utah Salt Flats Racing Association
130 MPH Club Rules
All drivers must be members of USFRA, be a licensed driver, and sign a loss damage waiver to participate.
A maximum of five (5) runs will be allowed per entry fee paid.
The 130-mph format is specifically designed for street cars/ motorcycles. To gain entrance into the 130-mph club, the vehicle must run the measured mile twice in the same day at a speed no less than 130 mph. The two runs are then averaged. Once a driver & car combination has achieved 130 club status no more runs will be allowed
An initial "licensing" pass at no more than 100 mph will be required to calibrate on board speed gauge equipment. i.e.; tachometer, speedometer, etc.
Maximum speed will be 140 mph - any vehicle exceeding 140 mph will be disqualified from making anymore passes and will not receive a timing slip.
The driver must wear a Snell 95 approved, full-face helmet, long sleeve shirt or jacket, and long pants.
Motorcycle riders must have full leathers, which zip together, including boots and gloves.
Open cars must have a 4-point roll bar. After market roof modifications are considered "open car". Factory only T-tops must have fiberglass or steel inserts in place when running.
Cars must be equipped with OEM lap and shoulder belts. If vehicle was manufactured prior to belts, they will be added.
Only gasoline, propane, or natural gas fuels may be used - NO nitrous, alcohol or nitro-fueled vehicles will be allowed.
Cars must have an adequate battery tie down.
Drive line loops are required in the front 25% of each section of drive shaft on rear-wheel cars where adequate retention and control of a broken driveline is not assured by body/frame design.
Dual throttle return springs are recommended.
Vehicles must have H, V, or Z rated tires which are rated for speeds in excess of 130 mph.
Tires & wheels for all vehicles will have metal valve caps (metal valve stems highly recommended) & crack-free valve stems. No tires wider than 10" will be allowed, unless the tires are OEM to the vehicle. (Narrow tires work better on the Salt).
Wheel covers will be positively attached or removed.
All cars will have a small fire extinguisher securely mounted inside the vehicle.
A ground cover must be used under the vehicle in the pit area. Waste fluids will not be "dumped" they will be taken off the salt for disposal. Pit areas and general Salt will be kept neat and clean at all times
Rental Cars will not be allowed.
INSPECTION:
-All vehicles must be currently licensed and street legal in their respective state.
-Fees will not be charged for an inspection.
-Inspection will verify the acceptable condition of the engine, drive train, wheels, tires, fuel, steering, braking, and safety systems to an approved checklist.
-Decisions of the inspector are final in the areas of safety assessment and requirements.

Utah Salt Flat Racing (http://www.saltflats.com/I30%20Club.html)

[Anderson]

Try looking at it from the other way...build a car that will race at Boneville, then do what you can to make it street legal.