Did it with tin/lead (70/30)... Is tin an english word by the way?? It's the first time I ever did this. And it came out pretty good I think. Better than bondo, that's for sure!! It's difficult to get it completely filled though.. Especially on the edges.. You know, where the edges of the dent are. When you start grinding it down the edges show up again. Is that because I didn't let it harden out enough..??? Any tips are really appreciated! I wanna do more of this stuff. Mould some welds on my bike and so on.. Thanks!
Good work. You changing the direction of your bike? That looks like a different tank... If so, any mock up pics you'd like to share? I always liked the simple yet mechanical lines of your bike... Tim
Nice Job. Working with lead is a lost art that can be learned. I use it over bondo for fixing my bike parts. The issue is that you need to build it up past the dent area so when you file it down you lose the ability to see where it starts. From the looks of your work you have done well. And although I am a support using lead to finish what you have don't be afraid to use a little putty to fill the seam, unless your a purest then add some more lead.
By the way be careful with that stuff, don't smoke when leading, the lead contaminates go from your hands to the smokes to get into your system if not careful. Dont grind, file the work down, and try not to create a lot of dust to breath in. They say that lead killed many a body man, but I think there was little protection back then and they painted and leaded all day for fifty years, but it is a know health hazzard, so be careful.
Looks like you didn't tin the area first. You need to clean the area completely, apply a flux and melt a small amount of lead to the area. Keep it liqiud with the torch and wipe it all over the area with a clean cotton rag. This must be done beyond the area that will be repaired so that the lead will stick properly. Apparently a self-tinning flux is available that will tin the area without needing to add the lead stick in the initial steps...but I've always done it with the stick itself.
Are you using files or a grinder to shape the lead? I'd use files if I were doing it. Lead is so soft you can melt it back off with a grinder...take your time with the paddle while applying it and it will save you some time while filing. Can't wait to see what you do with the Triumph!
Thanks for the quick replies!! Hackerbill... I didn't really do it in the sequence you are telling me.. I will next time. Someone told me all that before, and I totally forgot. I really degreased the area very well and I did use some flux though. But didn't do the rag thing and forgot to tin it before... I just started filling the dent. Does this mean my lead is gonna fall off soon..?? I used files of course to grind it down.. And a sandpaper with a block... A grinder is a bit to much for work like this. And I don't smoke.. So I won't inhale the stuff very quick.. Haha!! I'll try to fix up those edges later this week..
I really don't know... I've never done it without tinning first so I can't say...although the edge shows poor adhesion so it might be an issue throughout. Take it as a learning experience, melt it out and redo it but tin properly this time. I congradulate you for "trying"...most guys would just blob on some filler and call it good enough. (which it would be!) But YOU went to it and attempted to recreate the old way of doing things! THATS what its all about... Practice...you'll get it right. (heed the warnings however...nasty stuff, especially to kids.)
Just remember that where there is no flux, the lead won't stick. Like hackerbill said, you need to go beyond the actual area you're trying to fill. I do leadwork occasionally at work and mostly use a paste type flux. No-Korrode, I think is the brand name of it. On architectural stuff like Copper flashing and gutters, we generally use a Cut Acid.
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