View Full Version : The Official Tube Bending Thread


Pages : [1] 2

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 08:39 AM
Hey guys,

It's Shane from Baileigh Industrial here in Wisconsin. As you know, we deal with the Hot Rod and Restoration crowd on a daily basis and would love to get a little more involved on the board and help out in our area of expertise.

We have a whole team of metal fabrication experts here and we specialize in tube bending and odd applications.

So, I will start this tube bending thread. If you have any questions about roll cages, bending tube or pipe, application issues, what wall thickness will work or not, wall thickness vs. center line Radius or what material will bend. Pretty much anything related to tube bending......ask away.

mottsrods
01-12-2009, 09:14 AM
I know how to bend, but as everyone here will say, they would like to find an affordable mandrel bender...maybe even a bench mount one. Then can be made to be affordable....

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 09:23 AM
I know how to bend, but as everyone here will say, they would like to find an affordable mandrel bender...maybe even a bench mount one. Then can be made to be affordable....

Rotary draw benders for roll cages and tube chassis can be pretty affordable and can be bench mounted.

Unfortunately if you are looking to do exhaust, mandrel benders that will handle exhaust are quite spendy.

Von Hartmann
01-12-2009, 09:25 AM
I know how to bend, but as everyone here will say, they would like to find an affordable mandrel bender...maybe even a bench mount one. Then can be made to be affordable....

i second that

LUX BLUE
01-12-2009, 09:39 AM
I would imagine that the actual bendier for the exhaust is reasonable...it's the "draw through" part that makes it get exciting.

Do You guys have anything that will adapt My Hossfeld number 2 from manual to air over hydraulic, or something similar?

The worlds toughest rowing machine is about to get used again, and since I use 1-3/4 .180 wall, ....I could use some help.:D

budd
01-12-2009, 09:47 AM
i think just about any rotary draw bender could have a mandral attached, it just requires a place to mount the mandrel and of course a mandrel, i built my own hydraulic mandrel bender to bend 1-1/2"dia, 1/16" wall staniless, made my own mandrel, i would think it would take alot of effort the operate a manual mandrel bender.

73RR
01-12-2009, 09:51 AM
... i would think it would take alot of effort the operate a manual mandrel bender.

Arms the size of your leg...lol:D

.

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 10:00 AM
I would imagine that the actual bendier for the exhaust is reasonable...it's the "draw through" part that makes it get exciting.

Do You guys have anything that will adapt My Hossfeld number 2 from manual to air over hydraulic, or something similar?

The worlds toughest rowing machine is about to get used again, and since I use 1-3/4 .180 wall, ....I could use some help.:D

We do not offer anything like that. But there are tons of guys out there that will just weld up some brackets and go to Harbor Freight and get an air / hydraulic kit and mount it up. Pretty common and it saves your back when bending heavy wall material.

born loser
01-12-2009, 10:04 AM
Hossfield hydraulic attatchment:http://www.hossfeldbender.com/tooling/hydraulic-attachment.php

attatchment for air (hoist) type ram roe JD2 and Protools bender:
http://copperheadfab.com/index.php?action=catview&cat=Tool%20Accessories

ebay dies to bend 3/4 or 1/2 tube in a cheap HF bender:
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/moto9ll

new cheapie HF tube roller $159:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/99700-99799/99736.gif

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 10:16 AM
Hossfield hydraulic attatchment:http://www.hossfeldbender.com/tooling/hydraulic-attachment.php

attatchment for air (hoist) type ram roe JD2 and Protools bender:
http://copperheadfab.com/index.php?action=catview&cat=Tool%20Accessories

ebay dies to bend 3/4 or 1/2 tube in a cheap HF bender:
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/moto9ll

new cheapie HF tube roller $159:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/99700-99799/99736.gif

The Harbor Freight roll bender is pretty popular for large radius work, but does not work for roll cages or chassis.

born loser
01-12-2009, 10:23 AM
was just throwing it out there for those looking to do large radius bends.

f1 fred
01-12-2009, 10:26 AM
thanks for posting
lets hear it for a guy who shares useful knowledge of his trade on the board.

JohnnyFast
01-12-2009, 10:43 AM
I have used my Hossfeld #2 hydraulic bender for over 30 years and it's pretty much bulletproof. Of course, like any machine, it has its limits. One of these being its inability to make smooth bends on thin wall tubing.

I've often thought about packing some sand into a piece of 1 1/2" Dia. X 16 Ga. tubing to see if that might help. Has anybody tried this ?

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 11:00 AM
The secret to bending tube successfully (no ripples, wrinkle or kinks) is to make sure the tube wall is thick enough to support being bent at a given radius. This is why roll cages and tube chassis can be bent with a simple open rotary draw bender.

If the tube is not thick enough (like most exhaust) it will require a mandrel inside of the tube to support it as it is being bent. Without a mandrel, it will be like trying to bend a pop can. It will just crush.

I have heard of guys using sand to bend exhaust to large radius, but I have never seen any pictures of any tight radius bends (like headers) that look any good.

Kevin Lee
01-12-2009, 11:12 AM
Tightest/most realistic radius for 1 3/4" .125 wall tubing and the method used to get it?

budd
01-12-2009, 11:12 AM
i would say that in the same amount of time it would take to use sand to make bends in two pieces of 1-1/2" dia. 1/16" wall tubeing you could build and install a mandrel on your Hossfeld bender.

I have used my Hossfeld #2 hydraulic bender for over 30 years and it's pretty much bulletproof. Of course, like any machine, it has its limits. One of these being its inability to make smooth bends on thin wall tubing.

I've often thought about packing some sand into a piece of 1 1/2" Dia. X 16 Ga. tubing to see if that might help. Has anybody tried this ?

Thunderace
01-12-2009, 11:15 AM
I have a hydrualic bender for heavy stuff,
and an old Laco manual bench mounted machine for thin walled,
it's just like a scaled up version of the thing plumbers use to bend very soft thin walled copper, only you bolt to a bench and it's made from heavy iron and got a big handle.
makes lovely smooth bends in 16swg but the radius of the bends is quite large,and it's quite physical, larger diameters require the handle to be extended to about eight feet to be able to pull the bend smoothly, but the results are good.
Firm down the road has a fancy machine which can be programed to make whole exhaust systems, but when it comes to high performance stuff they still pack the pipes with sand and bend the pipes using a manual machine very like the one I use.

I like that Harbour Frieght Tube Roller, what a great little machine for making hoops,
what diameters and wall thicknesses does it work best with ?

zman
01-12-2009, 11:20 AM
I
Do You guys have anything that will adapt My Hossfeld number 2 from manual to air over hydraulic, or something similar?

LOL, when I bought mine the moron had yanked the cylinder and pump and scrapped them or some other such nonsense. I ended up putting together my own cylinder and pump. It actually runs off of a car battery until I get a power source for the pump.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3448/3191085711_51b1e69287.jpg?v=0


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3397/3191932970_98356cae1b.jpg?v=0

We do not offer anything like that. But there are tons of guys out there that will just weld up some brackets and go to Harbor Freight and get an air / hydraulic kit and mount it up. Pretty common and it saves your back when bending heavy wall material.


I've found their cylinders to be questionable quality, I've had better luck at Agri Supply or Northern....

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 11:20 AM
Tightest/most realistic radius for 1 3/4" .125 wall tubing and the method used to get it?

5.5" or 6.5" are pretty common bend radius' for 1 3/4' x .125 wall. Any simple open rotary draw bender can bend it. You will just need the correct die set.

Eyeball
01-12-2009, 11:24 AM
When using .120 wall DOM for a cage where the minimum wall required is .120 what are the chances that the wall will be under spec on the outside edge of your bends?

Are you better off going with at .134 wall tube?

oj
01-12-2009, 12:14 PM
On the subject or radius' it would be handy to have different radius' avail for small tubes, ie brake lines and fogger lines. I have the rigid benders for small tubes but cannot bend one tube to lay proper inside another since they share the same radius. Shane, you got something to accomodate? Thanks, oj

hugh m
01-12-2009, 12:24 PM
I fabbed a hydraulic setup for my Hossfeld bender by scaling up the photos in their catalog, and used a cylinder from Northern Hydraulics (which was American made at the time.) used an old enerpac pump, and all worked great. We now have an Ercolina bender, also works great, have heard of guys fabricating their own mandrel bending attachments for this, anybody seen one?

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 12:26 PM
On the subject or radius' it would be handy to have different radius' avail for small tubes, ie brake lines and fogger lines. I have the rigid benders for small tubes but cannot bend one tube to lay proper inside another since they share the same radius. Shane, you got something to accomodate? Thanks, oj


PM sent

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 12:29 PM
I fabbed a hydraulic setup for my Hossfeld bender by scaling up the photos in their catalog, and used a cylinder from Northern Hydraulics (which was American made at the time.) used an old enerpac pump, and all worked great. We now have an Ercolina bender, also works great, have heard of guys fabricating their own mandrel bending attachments for this, anybody seen one?


I know Ercolina makes a mandrel bender, but I have never heard of anyone fabbing an attachment.

Morrisman
01-12-2009, 12:33 PM
On the subject or radius' it would be handy to have different radius' avail for small tubes, ie brake lines and fogger lines. I have the rigid benders for small tubes but cannot bend one tube to lay proper inside another since they share the same radius. Shane, you got something to accomodate? Thanks, oj

PM sent


Is this some sort of secret squirrel club, with personal requests for info, or is there some chance we could all see the answer to the question? :confused:

budd
01-12-2009, 12:54 PM
heres a sweet little vice mounted mandrel bender, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v98jtIja3U0

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 01:00 PM
heres a sweet little vice mounted mandrel bender, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v98jtIja3U0

That is pretty neat.

Sounds like he is bending 1" x .065" in the video. You can actually bend that material on a 2.75" center line radius empty (with no mandrel)

K13
01-12-2009, 01:19 PM
It's hard for a company to tout their attributes without somebody crying foul (or spam) and I believe that Baleigh is providing answers in a p.c. way (politically correct) so nobody can accuse them of "Spamming"...!

I say they have a great product line and should let the guys be aware of their quality and show why their products features and benefits openly on this thread.


I agree it is definitley a pretty fine line that they have to walk on this matter. Obviously they are here to promote and sell their products (not a bad thing) and have clearly stepped up to support the HAMB and provide valuable information but there are always those that think this type of input is inappropriate.

But if a question is asked that they can provide a product to solve the problem I am sure more than one person has the same question and the product info would be valuable to many.

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 01:33 PM
Is this some sort of secret squirrel club, with personal requests for info, or is there some chance we could all see the answer to the question? :confused:

Not trying to ruffle any feathers here. Just didn't want to get flamed for spamming. This is a legitimate thread so I was keeping our product line out of it. But if you would like to see what bender we have, here is a link.

http://www.bii1.com/benders/compact-bender-650.php

This would be the least expensive option for brake lines and such, our larger bender also can have small die sets made for small tubing, but that might get a little spendy for 1 off projects.

hugh m
01-12-2009, 01:42 PM
Never seen a video, or machine showing how the mandrel actually works inside the tube , or how it gets out after the bend is made....nobody I know has one to actually look at...

LUX BLUE
01-12-2009, 01:49 PM
LOL, when I bought mine the moron had yanked the cylinder and pump and scrapped them or some other such nonsense. I ended up putting together my own cylinder and pump. It actually runs off of a car battery until I get a power source for the pump.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3448/3191085711_51b1e69287.jpg?v=0


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3397/3191932970_98356cae1b.jpg?v=0



I've found their cylinders to be questionable quality, I've had better luck at Agri Supply or Northern....

Cool.
looks good!

and...Nice spinna, Yo.:D

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 01:50 PM
Never seen a video, or machine showing how the mandrel actually works inside the tube , or how it gets out after the bend is made....nobody I know has one to actually look at...

Just cruz on over to You Tube. There are many mandrel benders on the market with plenty of videos to look at.

budd
01-12-2009, 01:58 PM
the best info i got when planing my mandrel bender came while i was at FAB TEC a few years back in Chicago, there were tons of beautiful benders there, tooling supliers, and i just went around looking and asking questions, one fellow took the time to listen to what i was building, we kicked around some different ideas and he did a few bends for me on his machine, a piece of 4"dia thin wall on a 3" radius, the tooling supliers gave me the run down on all the different types of mandrels, gave me catalogs, there were machines there makeing brake lines, cut, fittings installed, flared and bent as fast as the robot could take them away pretty much, i learned alot.

hugh m
01-12-2009, 02:06 PM
Wow, never would have thought to look on You Tube, thanks...

PBRmeASAP
01-12-2009, 02:15 PM
How about something cheap, simple, and cheap that could do 1"x1" square...say 16 gauge...something for us guys replacing wood in early chevys.

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 02:18 PM
Wow, never would have thought to look on You Tube, thanks...

Glad I could help

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 02:21 PM
How about something cheap, simple, and cheap that could do 1"x1" square...say 16 gauge...something for us guys replacing wood in early chevys.

1" x 1" x .065" is easy to bend, no problem. Just about any manual tube bender can handle that.

zman
01-12-2009, 02:58 PM
Cool.
looks good!

and...Nice spinna, Yo.:D

LOL, you caught that... we refer to the car it's on as "The Dub"... gotta pay the bills... and this one goes down on the bumpstops with 22's yo... :p

But to keep it on topic, I to have noticed that the Hossfeld does not like thin walled tubing, it bends the medium to thick stuff the best...

BAILEIGH INC
01-12-2009, 04:33 PM
LOL, you caught that... we refer to the car it's on as "The Dub"... gotta pay the bills... and this one goes down on the bumpstops with 22's yo... :p

But to keep it on topic, I to have noticed that the Hossfeld does not like thin walled tubing, it bends the medium to thick stuff the best...

Let me know what material you are trying to bend and to what radius, and I can tell you how thick you need your wall to be to get a good looking bend.

Weldemup
01-12-2009, 06:53 PM
I've always used the formula 3-1/2xOD for the Minimum Bend Radius of a round tube.
For example,if you're bending 1-3/4-in.-OD tube,Minimum Bend Radius=3-1/2x1-3/4 in.=6-1/8 in. so a 6 in.radius is close enough.
This is straight out of one of Ron Fournier metal fab books.

Drewfus
01-12-2009, 08:16 PM
How about something cheap, simple, and cheap that could do 1"x1" square...say 16 gauge...something for us guys replacing wood in early chevys.

think 3/8" plate, 1" pivot bolt, and a few machined spacers.

The centre die is about 3" dia, out of some 1/2" plate, with spacers either side to suite whichever size RHS. (Note: if using 1" RHS, add about 1/16"-1/8" spacing to allow the RHS to deform.

bolt the stand to the concrete, and have a BIG lever.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/090306026.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/090306027.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/090306028.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/090306030.jpg

this made these bends....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/RHSbends.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/RHSbends2.jpg

Note: a larger dia dia is preffered if you want to minimise the distortion, cheap and simple to do, with plenty of easy options.

Cheers,

Drewfus

metalshapes
01-12-2009, 08:27 PM
Hey guys,

It's Shane from Baileigh Industrial here in Wisconsin. As you know, we deal with the Hot Rod and Restoration crowd on a daily basis and would love to get a little more involved on the board and help out in our area of expertise.

We have a whole team of metal fabrication experts here and we specialize in tube bending and odd applications.

So, I will start this tube bending thread. If you have any questions about roll cages, bending tube or pipe, application issues, what wall thickness will work or not, wall thickness vs. center line Radius or what material will bend. Pretty much anything related to tube bending......ask away.

Do you sell the Tool or do you bend tubes as well?

Reason I ask is that I need one Hoop in Rollbar legal tubing.

I want to copy the Shape, Size & Radius of the Hoop that is on this car already.
But out of a material that will get me through Tech for Vintage Road Racing, and give more safety incase something would go wrong.

( there is a double Hoop on it right now, I want to put on a single...)

Chaz
01-12-2009, 08:41 PM
The Tube Shark bender we have sells a follower bar with "egg shapes" that turns out mandrel type bends according to their video. Heres a picture. I can't really say how well it works, or even if it works.
The bender itself is a nice unit though.

gotham
01-12-2009, 09:26 PM
When using .120 wall DOM for a cage where the minimum wall required is .120 what are the chances that the wall will be under spec on the outside edge of your bends?

Are you better off going with at .134 wall tube?

I think the .120 refers to the material you are required to use. They aren't going to drill a test hole in any of your bends.

Kenneth S
01-12-2009, 09:48 PM
When using .120 wall DOM for a cage where the minimum wall required is .120 what are the chances that the wall will be under spec on the outside edge of your bends?

Are you better off going with at .134 wall tube?


The problem is not on the outside of the bends, the problem is that due to manufacturing tolerences .120" DOM tubing can get as thin as .108", if your building a roll cage for a drag car it will usually fail the sonic thickness test, so all the chassis people that build or sell mild steel roll bars or cages for dragracing use the .134" wall tubing so it will pass the sonic test, they check the wall thickness on a straight section.

choke
01-12-2009, 10:13 PM
Dose any body know where you can get .134 wall 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 locally in the San Francisco bay area. You can get it out of state but UPS can only ship 8 ft lengths. Not long enough for your average main hoop. I don't need to order a 1000 ft mill run!!!! Any help is apppreciated thank you.

ric
01-12-2009, 11:02 PM
Dose any body know where you can get .134 wall 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 locally in the San Francisco bay area. You can get it out of state but UPS can only ship 8 ft lengths. Not long enough for your average main hoop. I don't need to order a 1000 ft mill run!!!! Any help is apppreciated thank you.

Have you tried Van Bebber in Petaluma ? Not sure if they have it but they could probably get it for you.

BAILEIGH INC
01-13-2009, 06:31 AM
Dose any body know where you can get .134 wall 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 locally in the San Francisco bay area. You can get it out of state but UPS can only ship 8 ft lengths. Not long enough for your average main hoop. I don't need to order a 1000 ft mill run!!!! Any help is apppreciated thank you.


Have you tried www.onlinemetals.com (http://www.onlinemetals.com)

BAILEIGH INC
01-13-2009, 08:01 AM
Do you sell the Tool or do you bend tubes as well?

Reason I ask is that I need one Hoop in Rollbar legal tubing.

I want to copy the Shape, Size & Radius of the Hoop that is on this car already.
But out of a material that will get me through Tech for Vintage Road Racing, and give more safety incase something would go wrong.

( there is a double Hoop on it right now, I want to put on a single...)

Unfortunately, we do not do any bending for customers here. I do test bends all of the time to test out applications, but nothing like what you are looking for. I'm sure someone on the board has a simple rotary draw bender that could handle that application.

BAILEIGH INC
01-13-2009, 08:03 AM
The Tube Shark bender we have sells a follower bar with "egg shapes" that turns out mandrel type bends according to their video. Heres a picture. I can't really say how well it works, or even if it works.
The bender itself is a nice unit though.

I'm familiar with the tube shark bender, but have not heard anything about that mandrel set up they have. Anyone ever used it?

BAILEIGH INC
01-13-2009, 08:03 AM
I think the .120 refers to the material you are required to use. They aren't going to drill a test hole in any of your bends.
Not sure on that one

BAILEIGH INC
01-13-2009, 02:52 PM
think 3/8" plate, 1" pivot bolt, and a few machined spacers.

The centre die is about 3" dia, out of some 1/2" plate, with spacers either side to suite whichever size RHS. (Note: if using 1" RHS, add about 1/16"-1/8" spacing to allow the RHS to deform.

bolt the stand to the concrete, and have a BIG lever.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/090306026.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/090306027.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/090306028.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/090306030.jpg

this made these bends....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/RHSbends.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/RHSbends2.jpg

Note: a larger dia dia is preffered if you want to minimise the distortion, cheap and simple to do, with plenty of easy options.

Cheers,

Drewfus

Did you make that bender?

Drewfus
01-13-2009, 04:08 PM
Did you make that bender?

a friend did, tis rough and nasty, but works a treat, and easily modified to suit different size radius dies, and RHS.

Cheers,

Drewfus

BAILEIGH INC
01-15-2009, 08:56 AM
a friend did, tis rough and nasty, but works a treat, and easily modified to suit different size radius dies, and RHS.

Cheers,

DrewfusLooks like it works good

BAILEIGH INC
01-19-2009, 10:06 AM
Any other questions about tube bending or roll bending?

Let me know.

RonH
01-19-2009, 11:15 AM
Here's a question for you, it's been mentioned before to try freezing water in tubing to keep it from collapsing when bending. Has anbody heard of cutting the water with soap to keep it from fracturing while frozen?

I watched a show where they were making trumpets (clearly thin wall tubing) and they used that technique to produce perfect bends.

Ron

BAILEIGH INC
01-19-2009, 11:19 AM
Here's a question for you, it's been mentioned before to try freezing water in tubing to keep it from collapsing when bending. Has anbody heard of cutting the water with soap to keep it from fracturing while frozen?

I watched a show where they were making trumpets (clearly thin wall tubing) and they used that technique to produce perfect bends.

Ron

Yes, they had an episode on "How it's made" on that same application. Sounds and looks like it works great for smaller, thin walled and softer materials.

I'm not sure how well that method would work for larger material. I have never heard of it working.

projim64
01-23-2009, 10:05 AM
Alright ,who out there bends .083 chrome moly with there Hossfield bender ? If it can be done, what die set do you use and what radius is it. There web site says that the thinest it will bend is .095 on a 7 inch radius and that die set # is 28741. Thanks,Jim.

BAILEIGH INC
01-23-2009, 11:21 AM
Alright ,who out there bends .083 chrome moly with there Hossfield bender ? If it can be done, what die set do you use and what radius is it. There web site says that the thinest it will bend is .095 on a 7 inch radius and that die set # is 28741. Thanks,Jim.

I'm not sure about Hossfeld specs, but the same "laws" to tube bending should apply for any rotary draw or rotary compression bender. Baileigh, JD2, Pro Tools, Hossfeld, Tube Shark...etc.

1 5/8 x .083 chromolly bent on a 5.5 CLR (center line radius) is a borderline application. Meaning it will bend very nice most of the time without wrinkling, but every once in a while it will give you problems with little wrinkles on the inside of the bend.

It is better to increase your CLR to at least a 6 or a 6.5. to keep this from happening.

Hope that helped, let me know if you need further information. This is a very common dragster application and I field these phone calls on a daily basis.

Hanksville Hot Rods
01-28-2009, 12:21 AM
Once you get past the price of the equipment, a mandrel bender can let you do some really neat stuff.

One of our commercial customers is building a prototype hybrid car and recently hired us to bend and notch a bunch of frame tubes from 1.625"x.083" chrom-moly. We chose to use our mandrel bender because it securely clamps the tube in place, allowing us to get dead-nuts accuracy on our bend rotations and angles. Our Baliegh/RMD MB-350 has a 9 ft-long mandrel table and each of the long lower framerails started out 16 ft long. Once you make a bend on the mandrel bender, you can't reinsert the mandrel, so we needed to have our bend locations, angles and springback planned out exactly, otherwise we'd need to start from scratch with a new length of tube (this is different from a regular rotary die bender or a shoe-type bender, where you can re-bend to add degrees if necessary). We were able to bend the framerails out of single, continuous lengths of tube by starting in the middle, working our way out to one end, then reversing the tube in the machine and starting in the middle again.

Recently we also bent some 2"x.065" 304SS stair railings for a customer using the same machine.

We mostly use this machine for exhausts, headers and chrom-moly cages. Like mentioned in an earlier post, any application where you have a tight bend radius on thin-wall tube. The great thing about having a mandrel bender is that it allows you to make multiple bends on a continuous length of tube. This saves the cutting/splicing/welding that is needed when you are piecing together mandrel U-bends. Also, if you need, say, a 33-degree bend for a tight header or exhaust project, it's nice to be able to walk over to the bender and bend it up instead of having to cut into a 45, a 90 or a U-bend to make it.

Hanksville Hot Rods
01-28-2009, 12:34 AM
I think the .120 refers to the material you are required to use. They aren't going to drill a test hole in any of your bends.

Right. When doing road race tech inspections, we drill inspection holes in straight sections of the bars, away from bends and tube joints. For NHRA inspections, we do not drill inspection holes at all.

I've always used the formula 3-1/2xOD for the Minimum Bend Radius of a round tube.
For example,if you're bending 1-3/4-in.-OD tube,Minimum Bend Radius=3-1/2x1-3/4 in.=6-1/8 in. so a 6 in.radius is close enough.
This is straight out of one of Ron Fournier metal fab books.

That's a useful formula. FWIW, some racing sanctioning bodies actually limit the bend radius to a minimum size. For instance, NASA (road racing) specifies a minimum of 3xOD for roll cage bend radii.

BAILEIGH INC
01-28-2009, 07:57 AM
Once you get past the price of the equipment, a mandrel bender can let you do some really neat stuff.

One of our commercial customers is building a prototype hybrid car and recently hired us to bend and notch a bunch of frame tubes from 1.625"x.083" chrom-moly. We chose to use our mandrel bender because it securely clamps the tube in place, allowing us to get dead-nuts accuracy on our bend rotations and angles. Our Baliegh/RMD MB-350 has a 9 ft-long mandrel table and each of the long lower framerails started out 16 ft long. Once you make a bend on the mandrel bender, you can't reinsert the mandrel, so we needed to have our bend locations, angles and springback planned out exactly, otherwise we'd need to start from scratch with a new length of tube (this is different from a regular rotary die bender or a shoe-type bender, where you can re-bend to add degrees if necessary). We were able to bend the framerails out of single, continuous lengths of tube by starting in the middle, working our way out to one end, then reversing the tube in the machine and starting in the middle again.

Recently we also bent some 2"x.065" 304SS stair railings for a customer using the same machine.

We mostly use this machine for exhausts, headers and chrom-moly cages. Like mentioned in an earlier post, any application where you have a tight bend radius on thin-wall tube. The great thing about having a mandrel bender is that it allows you to make multiple bends on a continuous length of tube. This saves the cutting/splicing/welding that is needed when you are piecing together mandrel U-bends. Also, if you need, say, a 33-degree bend for a tight header or exhaust project, it's nice to be able to walk over to the bender and bend it up instead of having to cut into a 45, a 90 or a U-bend to make it.


Nice!!

Thanks, it's always good to hear from you guys!

yoyodyne
01-28-2009, 10:17 AM
Alright ,who out there bends .083 chrome moly with there Hossfield bender ? If it can be done, what die set do you use and what radius is it. There web site says that the thinest it will bend is .095 on a 7 inch radius and that die set # is 28741. Thanks,Jim.

What diameter? I bend 1.625 dia X .083 4130N on Hossfeld 6"R dies. I bet they are being conservative for their safety against complaints, because I've run into trouble on other sizes because of variations in the material hardness as mentioned by Baleigh Inc. For example, I bent lots of 1.5 X .058 4130 on 6"R, then suddenly one day it started kinking and wouldn't stop. We decided is was the material and I had to change all my designs to 7.5" R on that material and buy new dies.

BAILEIGH INC
01-28-2009, 10:41 AM
What diameter? I bend 1.625 dia X .083 4130N on Hossfeld 6"R dies. I bet they are being conservative for their safety against complaints, because I've run into trouble on other sizes because of variations in the material hardness as mentioned by Baleigh Inc. For example, I bent lots of 1.5 X .058 4130 on 6"R, then suddenly one day it started kinking and wouldn't stop. We decided is was the material and I had to change all my designs to 7.5" R on that material and buy new dies.

Yes...I have taken a few phone calls in my day, from upset customers who have been burned by the 1 5/8" x 5.5 CLR die.

Hanksville Hot Rods
01-28-2009, 10:42 AM
I also have not had any issues bending 1.625"x.083" CM on our non-mandrel bender with a 6" centerline radius. I prefer to use our mandrel bender because it gives me more control and a better-quality bend, but the non-mandrel bender provides good results.

yoyodyne, I have had the same issues with 1.5"x.058" on the non-mandrel bender with the 6" die. It's just a little too thin for angles over 75* or so. .065" wall bends better if you want to keep the tighter bend radius.

BAILEIGH INC
02-03-2009, 03:45 PM
I also have not had any issues bending 1.625"x.083" CM on our non-mandrel bender with a 6" centerline radius. I prefer to use our mandrel bender because it gives me more control and a better-quality bend, but the non-mandrel bender provides good results.

yoyodyne, I have had the same issues with 1.5"x.058" on the non-mandrel bender with the 6" die. It's just a little too thin for angles over 75* or so. .065" wall bends better if you want to keep the tighter bend radius.

Thanks for the info

BAILEIGH INC
02-11-2009, 06:24 AM
Any other questions on the art of tube bending? I'm here to help. Ask away!

BAILEIGH INC
02-18-2009, 02:16 PM
I would still like to see some pics of "sand bent" exhaust that has a tight radius. Guys say they can do it, but I have not seen pictures of "tight bends"

FresnoRatRod
02-18-2009, 02:17 PM
Great thread, I love being able to ask those in the know questions.

35WINDOW
02-18-2009, 02:36 PM
I do have a question-I am putting a tubing structure in my '35, and am using 1' X 1" .065 tubing-I am using a Pro Tools HMP-200 Bender, w/a 6" radius die-so far so good, but:

My challenge is to make a more gradual bend, say, 18-22" radius-I only need to make two of them, and I am at a loss on how to do this with this Bender-looks like the Harbor Freight tubing roller would work, but it looks like it only does round tubing-any thoughts? I hate to buy another Bender for two pieces, but..........

BAILEIGH INC
02-18-2009, 03:07 PM
I do have a question-I am putting a tubing structure in my '35, and am using 1' X 1" .065 tubing-I am using a Pro Tools HMP-200 Bender, w/a 6" radius die-so far so good, but:

My challenge is to make a more gradual bend, say, 18-22" radius-I only need to make two of them, and I am at a loss on how to do this with this Bender-looks like the Harbor Freight tubing roller would work, but it looks like it only does round tubing-any thoughts? I hate to buy another Bender for two pieces, but..........

Yes, 18" to 22" radius bends could be done very easy on any inexpensive roll bender with standard tooling. I'm sure there are enough people on this board in your area with a small roll bender.

35WINDOW
02-18-2009, 03:19 PM
Yes, 18" to 22" radius bends could be done very easy on any inexpensive roll bender with standard tooling. I'm sure there are enough people on this board in your area with a small roll bender.


Thanks, I'll try the local HVAC Shop-

BAILEIGH INC
02-19-2009, 02:34 PM
Thanks, I'll try the local HVAC Shop-

Not sure an HVAC shaop would have a roll bender. They would probably have a slip roll though.

Borris
03-03-2009, 01:33 PM
does anyone know where I can get a 1" tube die at 2" CL radius? I haven't bought a bender yet but I have a big job that I'm going to do, and the die is a priority. or anyone who makes custom dies?

3" seems to be standard for 1" tube but I need tighter.

BAILEIGH INC
03-03-2009, 01:58 PM
does anyone know where I can get a 1" tube die at 2" CL radius? I haven't bought a bender yet but I have a big job that I'm going to do, and the die is a priority. or anyone who makes custom dies?

3" seems to be standard for 1" tube but I need tighter.

That is pretty tight for 1" tube. What is your wall thickness?

You will need at least .083" wall to get a descent bend on a 2" CLR. Tell me a little more about your application, what are you making?

Borris
03-03-2009, 03:06 PM
I've been a car builder for years but I have a pretty big job thrown at me to possibly build a bunch of custom display units with 1" tube on each side, 4 bends into a rectangle with parts hanging in between. theirs are welded at the corners because the guy making the prototype is a cheater. it needs to be super tight bends so there is max usable area to hang parts on the end. .083 wall is doable, strength isn't an issue for this.

BAILEIGH INC
03-03-2009, 03:13 PM
I've been a car builder for years but I have a pretty big job thrown at me to possibly build a bunch of custom display units with 1" tube on each side, 4 bends into a rectangle with parts hanging in between. theirs are welded at the corners because the guy making the prototype is a cheater. it needs to be super tight bends so there is max usable area to hang parts on the end. .083 wall is doable, strength isn't an issue for this.

Cool, if you can live with an .083 wall thickness, you should be ok. I have sold tons of benders to guys doing display racks, and a 3" CLR is a more common size. If you go with a 3" CLR you can get away .065" wall material.

Food for thought

Borris
03-03-2009, 03:15 PM
so you can make a 2" clr? what machine am I looking at for that $$ wise? I'm still trying to do this on a budget.

BAILEIGH INC
03-03-2009, 03:16 PM
so you can make a 2" clr? what machine am I looking at for that $$ wise? I'm still trying to do this on a budget.

PM sent

Borris
03-03-2009, 03:27 PM
I just emailed you. thanks

torkasmax1320
03-09-2009, 09:12 PM
Hey Shane,


My question is how much torque is involved to bend 1.750” OD X .083” WALL DOM tube @ 6” RAD. (approx. NHRA /SCTA cage material. I don't have the rule books.) I'm building a mandrel bender, I'm to cheep to buy, and am dome scratching on the length of the lever arm needed. The Machinery's handbook is insuficent in that all the formulas don't take into account bending around a radi.


Thanks for reading.


Tork

BAILEIGH INC
03-10-2009, 08:11 AM
Hey Shane,


My question is how much torque is involved to bend 1.750” OD X .083” WALL DOM tube @ 6” RAD. (approx. NHRA /SCTA cage material. I don't have the rule books.) I'm building a mandrel bender, I'm to cheep to buy, and am dome scratching on the length of the lever arm needed. The Machinery's handbook is insuficent in that all the formulas don't take into account bending around a radi.


Thanks for reading.


Tork

Tork,

I'm not sure on that one. All of the manual rotary draw benders I have experience with work off of compound leverage, kinda like an old 70's car jack. 1.75" x .083 wall can be easily bent with these types of benders. You would not need a mandrel inside of the tube on a 6.25 or a 6.5" radius. Are you locked in at 6'?

Will your bender be a rotary draw or a rotary compression bender? Manual, hydraulic or electric?

Kenneth S
03-10-2009, 08:41 AM
Here's a couple of pics of the new roll cage on my altered made from 1 5/8" x .083" CM tubing, I have a JD2 model 3 mechanical bender with a 180 deg x 4 1/2" radius die, I used a 4 1/2' long lever extension pipe, and it was relatively easy to bend the tubing.

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/58/l_8397ea50531d4c5bbcd48468dbfb8bc5.jpg

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/35/l_bef0795f577b4d23b041eedf9502951c.jpg

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/40/l_c733d7f85d69461fa227c69a0030aa8a.jpg

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/51/l_b2ed96ddda974488b76e172645b5946c.jpg

BAILEIGH INC
03-10-2009, 09:01 AM
Here's a couple of pics of the new roll cage on my altered made from 1 5/8" x .083" CM tubing, I have a JD2 model 3 mechanical bender with a 180 deg x 4 1/2" radius die, I used a 4 1/2' long lever extension pipe, and it was relatively easy to bend the tubing.

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/58/l_8397ea50531d4c5bbcd48468dbfb8bc5.jpg

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/35/l_bef0795f577b4d23b041eedf9502951c.jpg

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/40/l_c733d7f85d69461fa227c69a0030aa8a.jpg

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/51/l_b2ed96ddda974488b76e172645b5946c.jpg

Are you sure that is a 4.5 CLR?

Kenneth S
03-10-2009, 12:32 PM
Are you sure that is a 4.5 CLR?

Here's the die, JD2 no longer makes this die.

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/53/l_82eb104e6b234ca082adc1aebf877e7e.jpg

torkasmax1320
03-10-2009, 06:37 PM
Thanks for the response Shane, and no, not locked in to bend radi or tube dimensions. Mostly looking for ball park numbers so I don't build a yard ornament. I think what I have in mind would be a rotary draw type of deal, but I am not exactly sure. Plan to have a hook anchor on the inside die and apply torque with a hydraulic cylinder. A moving die on the outside at the bend and stationary mandrel on the inside of the tube. I would like very much to bend up to 2.5” thin wall at a tight radi for header applications. But this would be primarily a chassis and cage application. Have you ever had a pressuer gauge on any of the hydro. converted benders? The lever arm on most of those benders look like 12” or so and with a standard Port-a-power 1” cyl the torque would be the gauge reading.


Ken, the bends on your cage look great, and the hole deal looks like a wild ride. What are ya going to put in the middle to make noise with?


Tork

Kenneth S
03-10-2009, 07:20 PM
Ken, the bends on your cage look great, and the hole deal looks like a wild ride. What are ya going to put in the middle to make noise with?


Tork

To start out with I'm using a tame lil .030" over 302 that pushed a 3200lb 66 mustang I used to have to 12.0's, should do pretty good in a car that's around half the weight of the mustang, eventually a alky injected 408" sbf with yates heads.

BAILEIGH INC
03-10-2009, 09:57 PM
To start out with I'm using a tame lil .030" over 302 that pushed a 3200lb 66 mustang I used to have to 12.0's, should do pretty good in a car that's around half the weight of the mustang, eventually a alky injected 408" sbf with yates heads.


Nice!

HOTTRODZZ
03-10-2009, 10:38 PM
Kenneth, real nice bend ups - position & fittment dude..!

But do your nose & lungs a favor - loose the old paint at least 1 inch back from were you are going to weld your seams.

One more thing - if you have a caliper, could you measure across the middle of your bends ?? - measure the inside ( thinner ) and then 90 deg's across.

Nothin wrong, just somthing I like to check on 4130N & 1020 DOM bends.

Kenneth S
03-10-2009, 11:02 PM
Kenneth, real nice bend ups - position & fittment dude..!

But do your nose & lungs a favor - loose the old paint at least 1 inch back from were you are going to weld your seams.

One more thing - if you have a caliper, could you measure across the middle of your bends ?? - measure the inside ( thinner ) and then 90 deg's across.

Nothin wrong, just somthing I like to check on 4130N & 1020 DOM bends.

Thanks.

I plan on removing more paint around the joints before welding.

I'll get and post the measurements for you tomarrow (I also have a piece of 1 5/8" x .134" wall 1020 DOM tube that was bent with the same die, I'll get, and post those for you also).

Rick Sis
03-10-2009, 11:59 PM
If you have a tube with a bend in it and you want to duplicate the bend, what is the best way to measure the radius of the bend on the original part? Is the industry standard spec for dies always CLR?

BAILEIGH INC
03-11-2009, 08:00 AM
If you have a tube with a bend in it and you want to duplicate the bend, what is the best way to measure the radius of the bend on the original part? Is the industry standard spec for dies always CLR?

[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]Yes.....when speaking "tube bender language" you always want to measure CLR (center line radius)

Here is a link to our library with a ton of "fun facts" that will make you life easier when bending tube.

http://www.bii1.com/library.php

hugh m
03-11-2009, 08:55 AM
Just bookmarked that link, thanks...

BAILEIGH INC
03-11-2009, 09:14 AM
Here's a couple of pics of the new roll cage on my altered made from 1 5/8" x .083" CM tubing, I have a JD2 model 3 mechanical bender with a 180 deg x 4 1/2" radius die, I used a 4 1/2' long lever extension pipe, and it was relatively easy to bend the tubing.

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/58/l_8397ea50531d4c5bbcd48468dbfb8bc5.jpg

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/35/l_bef0795f577b4d23b041eedf9502951c.jpg

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/40/l_c733d7f85d69461fa227c69a0030aa8a.jpg

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/51/l_b2ed96ddda974488b76e172645b5946c.jpg

What kind notcher are you using on this cage? Notching on a bend like that can be pretty challenging. Looks like you have it mastered.

Ian Berky
03-11-2009, 09:28 AM
I sure wish i could have had access to a nice bender! I ended up going to a muffler shop to get this piece bent and now i have to deal with these corners!!
Damnit!!

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g251/iancarie/IMG_7031.jpg

Ian

BAILEIGH INC
03-11-2009, 09:34 AM
I sure wish i could have had access to a nice bender! I ended up going to a muffler shop to get this piece bent and now i have to deal with these corners!!
Damnit!!

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g251/iancarie/IMG_7031.jpg

Ian

Sorry, but you lost me. What part are you talking about?

Ian Berky
03-11-2009, 10:00 AM
Sorry, but you lost me. What part are you talking about?

Top corners have the indentation from the bender.

BAILEIGH INC
03-11-2009, 11:47 AM
Top corners have the indentation from the bender.


Oh OK......you had them bent with a HUTH or a "ram style" exhaust bender.

Ian Berky
03-11-2009, 12:09 PM
Oh OK......you had them bent with a HUTH or a "ram style" exhaust bender.

Yep!

torkasmax1320
03-11-2009, 09:07 PM
Great link, some good info. Still not sure on the amount of force needed to make common bends in “cage size” tubing. Anybody got a WAG.


Hey Ian,


Nice work, the grill opening is very good. The “bar” looks like something I have seen before, what is it?


Later
Tork

Ian Berky
03-11-2009, 09:30 PM
Great link, some good info. Still not sure on the amount of force needed to make common bends in “cage size” tubing. Anybody got a WAG.


Hey Ian,


Nice work, the grill opening is very good. The “bar” looks like something I have seen before, what is it?


Later
Tork


Hey thanx tork! I bought the middle piece from a hamber and the description was " over rider bar", it used to be shaped kinda like the kaiser bar but i cut the ends off to fit some dummy lights which i reversed and also cut the ends and mounted lenses to use as turn signals.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g251/iancarie/IMG_7032.jpg

wfo guy
03-11-2009, 09:47 PM
For those of you that are involved with drag racing and haven't been to your first chassis inspection, NHRA uses a sonic wall tester. If the tube in question isn't the proper thickness or above, you will be sent home to repair your chassis. No exceptions.

BAILEIGH INC
03-12-2009, 05:51 AM
Hey thanx tork! I bought the middle piece from a hamber and the description was " over rider bar", it used to be shaped kinda like the kaiser bar but i cut the ends off to fit some dummy lights which i reversed and also cut the ends and mounted lenses to use as turn signals.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g251/iancarie/IMG_7032.jpg


Looks great though. Good job

onlychevrolets
03-12-2009, 06:04 AM
a few words on tube bending, if any of you guys need exhaust tubing mandrel bent I can do that for you. I can do from 1 3/4 to 5 inch. It aint cheep but neither was the bender, three inch works well in custom body work. I'm not a vendor I'm just trying to help fellow hodders.. ( Atlanta area ) send me an PM with your needs.

Kenneth S
03-12-2009, 04:15 PM
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq182/sar4306/My%20Altered/d79c8391.jpg?t=1236891177

Here is a piece of 1 5/8" (1.625") x .083" CM tubing that was bent 85 deg on a 4 1/2" CLR JD2 Model 3 die, this is the cut was made in the middle of the bend.
A: .096"
B: .076"
C: .079"
D: 1.490"
E: 1.647"

HOTTRODZZ
03-12-2009, 09:41 PM
Thanks Kenneth - that's what I was looking for.

The tube kinda take's on a ( D ) shape.

I have been watching this for 15 years or so,

Back in the mid 90's - using a JD2 bender - then a JD3, I would see about a .040 to .050 differance in 1.625 x .083 4130N Tube with a 5.5 die.

These day's - I am getting similar results to yours.

I believe the material is not being made the same way as it was.

Kenneth S
03-12-2009, 10:19 PM
Yep, they don't make things like they used to that's for sure.

willysguy
03-12-2009, 10:43 PM
Shane, I had a question about bending some 1/2" chromemoly tubing for a parachute mount. Can you sand bend it with heat or is it to hard? Thanks Duane

BAILEIGH INC
03-13-2009, 10:18 AM
Shane, I had a question about bending some 1/2" chromemoly tubing for a parachute mount. Can you sand bend it with heat or is it to hard? Thanks Duane

I'll tell ya.....

I am not a sand bending expert by any means. I thought it was more or less a myth before getting on the HAMB. I have been dealing with tube and pipe benders forever and have just never come across the "sand bending" crowd.

I'm sure there is someone else on this board that would be more help on this question. Sorry.

Ian Berky
03-13-2009, 03:47 PM
Looks great though. Good job

Thanx BAILEIGH!! i rounded the hood corners, it flows better now i think.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g251/iancarie/IMG_7069.jpg

Ian

BAILEIGH INC
03-14-2009, 08:02 AM
Thanx BAILEIGH!! i rounded the hood corners, it flows better now i think.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g251/iancarie/IMG_7069.jpg

Ian

In agree with you. Looks way better.

Nice work!

BAILEIGH INC
03-22-2009, 08:20 AM
Some of that material coming out of China is pretty inconsistent. I have had a couple customers struggling with it. <!-- / message -->

GAB-KC
03-22-2009, 12:40 PM
I just bent this scrap piece of tubing on my Hossfeld bender and here is what I found. The tube is 2" x .120" HREW P & O material. The die set is a 6" CLR. I have a 36" stroke cylinder for doing 90° bends in one stroke that has a 2-1/2" bore. At the start of the bend (when the leverage is the lowest) my pressure gauge reads just at 500 PSI. As the cylinder extends, the pressure drops to a little over 400 PSI and then starts climbing as it approaches the 90° mark.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v707/gbarnes/DSCN1671.jpg

The area of the piston for a 2-1/2" cylinder is 4.909 Sq. In.. Thus the force exerted by the cylinder at 500 PSI is 2454.5 Lbs. The force is applied at a pivot pin that is 19" from the center pin. The pin that the wiper die is pivoted on is 8-3/4" from the center pin. Thus there is a ratio of 2.171 to 1 to add into the calculation. That gives a force of 5325.72 lbs at the wiper die pin.

Converting this to torque is where I get lost on this. Maybe one of the engineers on here can check my math and take it from here.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v707/gbarnes/Bend002.jpg

Also, I measured the diameter (?) across the center of the bend in the plane of the bend and it was 1.858" and perpendicular to the plane it measured 2.001" I didn't cut it apart to check wall thickness, but I'm sure that it would be similar to other results already posted.

BAILEIGH INC
03-23-2009, 09:28 AM
I just bent this scrap piece of tubing on my Hossfeld bender and here is what I found. The tube is 2" x .120" HREW P & O material. The die set is a 6" CLR. I have a 36" stroke cylinder for doing 90° bends in one stroke that has a 2-1/2" bore. At the start of the bend (when the leverage is the lowest) my pressure gauge reads just at 500 PSI. As the cylinder extends, the pressure drops to a little over 400 PSI and then starts climbing as it approaches the 90° mark.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v707/gbarnes/DSCN1671.jpg

The area of the piston for a 2-1/2" cylinder is 4.909 Sq. In.. Thus the force exerted by the cylinder at 500 PSI is 2454.5 Lbs. The force is applied at a pivot pin that is 19" from the center pin. The pin that the wiper die is pivoted on is 8-3/4" from the center pin. Thus there is a ratio of 2.171 to 1 to add into the calculation. That gives a force of 5325.72 lbs at the wiper die pin.

Converting this to torque is where I get lost on this. Maybe one of the engineers on here can check my math and take it from here.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v707/gbarnes/Bend002.jpg

Also, I measured the diameter (?) across the center of the bend in the plane of the bend and it was 1.858" and perpendicular to the plane it measured 2.001" I didn't cut it apart to check wall thickness, but I'm sure that it would be similar to other results already posted.


Very good information! Thanks for keeping this thread alive with great info like that!

Right on!

BAILEIGH INC
03-25-2009, 06:18 PM
Looks like you are getting a pretty good bend off of that Hossfeld. :D

BAILEIGH INC
04-13-2009, 09:11 AM
Anybody ever wonder how to figure out how much tube is consumed in a bend?

(CLR) Center Line Radius of die x Degree of bend x .0175

mottsrods
04-13-2009, 10:31 AM
Anybody ever wonder how to figure out how much tube is consumed in a bend?

(CLR) Center Line Radius of die x Degree of bend x .0175

Ya know, i had to learn this formula when I was in college taking an engineering class. Almost wasteful knowledge, but usefull for just being something no other person would know.... campfire talk.

BAILEIGH INC
04-17-2009, 01:17 PM
Actually, I have plenty of customers that have found it useful. It helps when you need to know how much tube to buy.

BAILEIGH INC
05-22-2009, 09:37 AM
Let's keep the tube bending thread alive.

willymakeit
05-22-2009, 11:06 PM
When are they going to give the price on the new bender coming out in June? I will be buying a bender and I like what I've seen so far.

392_hemi
05-22-2009, 11:25 PM
Are you guys going to have this stuff at AWS/Fabtech in November?

BAILEIGH INC
05-23-2009, 08:26 AM
When are they going to give the price on the new bender coming out in June? I will be buying a bender and I like what I've seen so far.



Thank you for your interest in our RDB-050 tube bender. There are many advantages to the RDB-50 over other manual benders on the market.

The highest capacity of any manual bender on the market
3 bending speeds
180 degrees in one shot, you do not need to stop every 40 degrees and re-pin or start the bend over
2 1/2" OD capacity
Aluminum bronze bushings at all pivot points for a long service life
Heat treated pins
Anti-spring back lever
Fast and easy hook arm inserts for different size tube, no U straps to mess with
Replaceable aluminum bronze counter bend die insert
Affordable die sets are available in 90 or 180 degrees
Best bend quality on the market
Made in the USA
Ship UPS in 3 boxes
Here is a quote and a link to the machine specs. We are offering a 10% discount on the bender and all die sets for all orders before June 1st. Please read over the specs of the machine, watch the video and you will quickly see why this bender is better than any manual bender on the market. We have a ton of dies available for this bender. They are available in 90 and 180 degrees. Here are some common die prices, but remember, we have a ton of them to choose from. These are just a few. Call me if you have any questions.

RDB-050 $805.50
1" x 3" CLR $114.30
1 1/4" x 4" CLR $154.80
1 1/2" x 5" CLR $202.50
1 3/4" x 6" CLR $243
1 5/8" x 6" CLR $250
2" x 6" CLR $250.20
2 1/2" x 7" CLR 443.70


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe7xkG70zsc

http://www.bii1.com/benders/manual-rotary-draw-bender-050.php

http://www.bii1.com/images/rotarty-draw-benders/rdb-050-large.jpg

http://www.bii1.com/images/rotarty-draw-benders/DSCF1839-large.jpg

http://www.bii1.com/images/rotarty-draw-benders/DSCF1836-large.jpg

http://www.bii1.com/images/rotarty-draw-benders/DSCF1832-large.jpg

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=363948&highlight=baileigh

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/DSCF1835.jpg?t=1237560685

Baileigh Industrial’s newest bender, the RDB-050, was designed from the ground up to deliver world class bend quality in an affordable package. This unit is aimed squarely at the serious home fabricator who may not be able to justify a larger hydraulic or programmable bender but still wants the quality and performance Baileigh Industrial is famous for.

This revolutionary new design incorporates features previously seen only on much more expensive benders. Heavy duty bushings incorporated at all wear points for incredible service life and increased bend capacity. This is a bender for life!

Three speed operation makes quick work of any bending job. Simply change pin location to adjust the amount of movement per “pull” (4, 8, or 12 deg.) – no confusing or time wasting disassembly required. For very light weight materials the operator can bend in one smooth pull all the way to 200 deg. This new leverage action along with an incredibly rigid framework allows for huge bend capacity – up to 2 1/2” OD (.120” wall) Mild Steel or 2” OD (.120” wall) Chromolly Tubing.

A simple anti-spring back mechanism assures precise bend control and increased operator safety. At no time does the operator have to “hold” the arm in place and be subjected to dangerous backlash, an important consideration when bending the likes of Chromolly. Tooling changeover is fast and easy as no disassembly of the machine is necessary. Simply pull a few pins and slide in the new tooling – it’s that easy! The whole process can be accomplished in a matter of seconds.

Once the part is completed simply slide the finished piece out of the machine. Our innovative design eliminates the need to disassemble the unit or remove tooling to release your work piece making the bend process clean and simple. Round tube tooling is available for either 90 or 180 degree bends and incorporates the same replaceable aluminum/bronze counter die inserts that Baileigh Industrial is famous for. Hook arm inserts for varying tube sizes assist with fast tooling changes. True to form, our tooling remains the best in the industry.

The RDB-050 comes complete with the stand, handle and degree dial included. Simply add your desired tooling sizes and you can be up and bending in no time. It is UPS shippable to keep freight charges reasonable.

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/DSCF1839.jpg?t=1237559319

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/DSCF1832.jpg?t=1237559368
If you have any questions about the bender, how it works or a shipping quote just shoot me a PM or reply to this thread. Give me a call or an email shenderson@bii1.com


Best regards,

BAILEIGH INC
05-23-2009, 07:34 PM
Are you guys going to have this stuff at AWS/Fabtech in November?

Not sure yet.

Kenneth S
05-27-2009, 04:22 PM
What kind notcher are you using on this cage? Notching on a bend like that can be pretty challenging. Looks like you have it mastered.

Here's what I use to notch, and fit the tubing with, and if you you have a drill press set up right (speed vs down feed pressure) the bi-metal holesaws will last a long time, even without using any coolant/lubricant. (But now I need another drill press):D
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/88/l_44fca3b62e804e2a92652101348573d7.jpg

Right angle die grinder with a expandable mandrel, and sanding drums.
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/65/l_aa875c5334cd43749839c6ca9846f691.jpg

The final fit!
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/35/l_bef0795f577b4d23b041eedf9502951c.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/40/l_c733d7f85d69461fa227c69a0030aa8a.jpg

BAILEIGH INC
06-02-2009, 11:21 AM
sanding drums :rolleyes:

Good idea

392_hemi
06-02-2009, 01:06 PM
Hole saw and sanding drums work well, but it's slow going and a lot of work if you want to get a good fit. And starting over from scratch after spending 30 minutes on a joint is not fun. But I did the headers and complete dual exhaust on my '32 5-window that way and the end product is 100x better than anything that's commercially available.

HOTTRODZZ
06-02-2009, 01:24 PM
A cool trick to speed up the cope'n n fitt'n is with a Hand held belt sander.

I have one that use's a 1.1 wide belt - one with a .750 & one with .375.

You work the joint with the nose of the belt -

Yup - it all takes time

& it AWAYS shows.

3M sells some KILLER belts - The 36G ones will move the material pretty fast.


Very NICE job Ken..!

Kenneth S
06-02-2009, 01:36 PM
As many of them as I've done with the hole saw, and sanding drums I've been getting them done pretty quick, I don't have to use the sanding drum on every tube for the final fit, if you do it enough with the hole saws like I do you can get the majority of them fitted on the first cut.

BAILEIGH INC
06-06-2009, 02:47 PM
A cool trick to speed up the cope'n n fitt'n is with a Hand held belt sander.

I have one that use's a 1.1 wide belt - one with a .750 & one with .375.

You work the joint with the nose of the belt -

Yup - it all takes time

& it AWAYS shows.

3M sells some KILLER belts - The 36G ones will move the material pretty fast.




Very NICE job Ken..!


Have you ever used a computer program that prints wrappers for your notches?

HOTTRODZZ
06-06-2009, 08:47 PM
Nope - But Im willing to.

Streetwerkz
06-06-2009, 09:20 PM
Shane
here is a thread I came across on another forum people use the sand bending method
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40895&highlight=sand+bending

InDaShop
06-06-2009, 10:10 PM
As many of them as I've done with the hole saw, and sanding drums I've been getting them done pretty quick, I don't have to use the sanding drum on every tube for the final fit, if you do it enough with the hole saws like I do you can get the majority of them fitted on the first cut.


I use a Port-a-Band, and sanding drums.
Fishmouth the tube with the port-a-band, then pretty up the radius with the grit.

I have not had any love with holesaws. I have that same style hole saw, mine is a Pro-tools. And as Baliegh said its troube close to the radius. I find thats always where I'm wanting/needing to notch. I converted to the Port-a-band, and its so fast....and I dont need a 2nd drill press....

BTW I bend with a Pro-tools 105 manual bender setup with a Homebrew hydralic kit. Rarely use it on hotrod stuff, but I've built a handful of offroad chassis, and tons of offroad roll cages.

BAILEIGH INC
06-08-2009, 08:37 AM
Nope - But Im willing to.

Then check this out.....http://www.bii1.com/benders/tube-bending-layout-software.php

BAILEIGH INC
06-20-2009, 04:03 PM
Shane
here is a thread I came across on another forum people use the sand bending method
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40895&highlight=sand+bending


Cool thanks!

BAILEIGH INC
09-14-2009, 04:50 PM
Nope - But Im willing to.

Bend Tech pro....you will love it

BMS
09-23-2009, 06:52 PM
First post. Signed up so I could ask this question.

If you had to buy a die for each size tube, is there a CLR size that is a good one to start with? At $200-$300 per die, I can't afford a 3", 3.5", 4", etc CLR die for each size tube.

murfman
09-23-2009, 07:04 PM
Bend Tech pro....you will love it

What he said x elevnty billion:eek:

Off topic pic, but I bent this bumper up for my truck, the main bar has 7 bends in it, as it follows the contours of the grill and headlights. I made my own bender, and bought the Bendtech "Pro" edition. This bumper is the first thing I've ever bent, and it came out perfect on the first shot. The "CUT" feature lets you print out a paper wrap for the joints. I used my plasma to cut the joint close, and a 4" flap disc to finish it off. It is unbelieveable how easy it is. If I can do it, ANYBODY can.
Pics:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/ram/DSC01640.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/ram/DSC01607.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/ram/DSC01643.jpg

BAILEIGH INC
09-23-2009, 07:42 PM
First post. Signed up so I could ask this question.

If you had to buy a die for each size tube, is there a CLR size that is a good one to start with? At $200-$300 per die, I can't afford a 3", 3.5", 4", etc CLR die for each size tube.



What will you be building?
Roll cage?
Tube Chassis?
Dragster?

BMS
09-23-2009, 08:56 PM
appreciate the reply. Planning to build small off road buggy. "shifter" style kart. maybe a chopper. The chopper plans I have call for 1.25"x.120 tubing with all bends made with a 4.5" CLR. Kart will probably be 1" tubing. Buggy probably 1.25" or 1.5" tubing.

It will all be pretty rough as I'll be a first time builder for this stuff. It's more about creating and doing than doing it 100% correct. For now at least.

1320GASSER
09-23-2009, 09:47 PM
what kind of lubricant do you recommend for the dies or tube while bending....most of what I bend is 1.625 x .134 wall on a 6" clr.... (roll cage stuff)

thanks

murfman
09-23-2009, 10:21 PM
I use spray lithium grease, it comes in an aerosol can, and is easy to clean up.

Kenneth S
09-23-2009, 10:39 PM
I use the spray lithium grease also, it works great, and it's also a lot less messier than the cheap tub of wheel bearing grease

BAILEIGH INC
09-24-2009, 09:01 AM
what kind of lubricant do you recommend for the dies or tube while bending....most of what I bend is 1.625 x .134 wall on a 6" clr.... (roll cage stuff)

thanks

x2 on the lithium grease. :D

Good bending lube.

BAILEIGH INC
09-24-2009, 09:04 AM
appreciate the reply. Planning to build small off road buggy. "shifter" style kart. maybe a chopper. The chopper plans I have call for 1.25"x.120 tubing with all bends made with a 4.5" CLR. Kart will probably be 1" tubing. Buggy probably 1.25" or 1.5" tubing.

It will all be pretty rough as I'll be a first time builder for this stuff. It's more about creating and doing than doing it 100% correct. For now at least.

Here are some common dies we sell the race car crowd:

Racing die package:
1 x 3
1 1/4 x 4
1 1/2 x 5
1 5/8 x 6
1 3/4 x 7

These are common dies, but any set can be made. Let me know if you have any other questions about bending tube or tube benders.

BMS
09-24-2009, 10:40 AM
thanks.

1320GASSER
09-24-2009, 11:45 AM
I will give the spray grease a try.....thanks

Carl E. Hagan Jr.
09-24-2009, 12:02 PM
Newspaper works real good as a lubricant in my hossfeld #2....just lay it around the die & then it's sandwiched between the die & the tube. I use a piece on the following die, the big radius die & also where the main die pinches the tube to the lock. Carl Hagan

hugh m
09-24-2009, 01:30 PM
We got a tip a while ago to use plastic bags. they work good, and don't mess everything up. We have a large paper cutter set up to cut it in strips, although that's not neccessary. we use 'em till there's nothing but crumbs, and then get a new strip.

BAILEIGH INC
09-24-2009, 02:03 PM
We got a tip a while ago to use plastic bags. they work good, and don't mess everything up. We have a large paper cutter set up to cut it in strips, although that's not neccessary. we use 'em till there's nothing but crumbs, and then get a new strip.

What kind of bender? Does it have a bronze counter bend die?

hugh m
09-24-2009, 02:15 PM
Yup, it's an Ercolina. how'd you know?

BAILEIGH INC
09-24-2009, 02:19 PM
Yup, it's an Ercolina. how'd you know?

I was just wondering....

We have aluminum bronze counter bend dies on our benders as well. I just have never heard of anyone using plastic bags for lubrication. I'm sure it protects your material. How well does the counter bend die hold up?

Plastic bag would be easier to clean up :D

hugh m
09-24-2009, 02:26 PM
Holds up well, except for the one that is subject to a weld getting pulled through it sometimes.

BAILEIGH INC
09-24-2009, 02:30 PM
Holds up well, except for the one that is subject to a weld getting pulled through it sometimes.

That is wild. Do you have any pictures?

eye bone
09-24-2009, 03:19 PM
subscibing

hugh m
09-24-2009, 03:25 PM
Here's a quick photo of the part subject to marking up the die. If the weld is perfect it just misses...we've made thousands of bends on this machine, still looks OK...it's part of a boat cart we make...not from a hotrod , sorry, but it is fabrication just the same...

BAILEIGH INC
10-10-2009, 02:47 PM
Here's a quick photo of the part subject to marking up the die. If the weld is perfect it just misses...we've made thousands of bends on this machine, still looks OK...it's part of a boat cart we make...not from a hotrod , sorry, but it is fabrication just the same...

Thanks for the pic! New info to me.

BAILEIGH INC
11-06-2009, 03:10 PM
Here's a quick photo of the part subject to marking up the die. If the weld is perfect it just misses...we've made thousands of bends on this machine, still looks OK...it's part of a boat cart we make...not from a hotrod , sorry, but it is fabrication just the same...


I spoke with another gentleman about this yesterday, still not sure about it though. Anyone else try this?

Ratfink749
12-08-2009, 10:17 PM
Got a quick question about benders in general. I've seen many benders that are available with both 90 and 180 degree dies. Why would someone get a 90 degree die when they could just buy the 180 and only bend 90 of it? Am I missing something here?

BAILEIGH INC
12-09-2009, 08:22 AM
Got a quick question about benders in general. I've seen many benders that are available with both 90 and 180 degree dies. Why would someone get a 90 degree die when they could just buy the 180 and only bend 90 of it? Am I missing something here?


We sell both 90 and 180 dies.

The 90 degree dies are less money and weigh less for shipping. The 90 degree dies are very popular with the back yard off road fabricators.

BAILEIGH INC
04-12-2010, 09:09 AM
Any of you guys using Bend tech software to design your tube chassis?

Ratfink749
04-12-2010, 10:26 AM
Any of you guys using Bend tech software to design your tube chassis?
I fully intend to, once I get a Windows emulator for my Mac, and a bender. After reading their pages, features, and abilities it seems like one hell of a package both for the amateur and pro builder. Just gotta keep adding $ into the savings account and I'll have it one day soon! I'd like to design something similar to Rodrobb's '26 T chassis shown in the Tube Chassis thread.

BAILEIGH INC
08-26-2010, 07:28 PM
Any other tube bending questions for the tube bending guru?

InDaShop
08-26-2010, 08:15 PM
Any other tube bending questions for the tube bending guru?

Wait, are you calling yourself the guru? You just sell the equipment, right? I can think of some tube bending guru's and you arent one of them. Please elaborate what makes you worthy of that title?

BAILEIGH INC
08-27-2010, 06:23 AM
Wait, are you calling yourself the guru? You just sell the equipment, right? I can think of some tube bending guru's and you arent one of them. Please elaborate what makes you worthy of that title?

Well, where do I start? :rolleyes:


I have years of experience bending tube, 8 to 10 hours a day, 6 days a week in my early 20's. Miles of tubing. Stainless, Hastelloy and many exotic metals. I worked at a company named Micro Motion in Colorado. I was a production tube bender and tig welder. I built flow sensors there for 10 years. Surrounded by manual and mandrel benders all day, every day.

I have also worked at Trick Tools for years prior to coming to Baileigh years ago. Dealing with the off road, race car, hot rod, chopper and industrial market on a daily basis, all day, every day. I am constantly helping people with custom and difficult bending applications, doing customer demos and test bending for customers all around the world. I can help you bend tube, pipe, square, rectangle and oval, heck..I can even help you bend square on edge like a diamond.

I have done many trade shows, SEMA, Hot Rod and Restoration and Off Road Expo just to name a few. I have used and sold just about about every bender on the market and can tell you the pros and cons of each, how they work, where they are made, and the name of the owners of the companies. I know most of them personally. I can explain the difference between open rotary draw bending, versus rotary compression bending, roll bending and ram bending. Want to know why you can't bend exhaust on an open rotary draw bender? Or why square will deform and how to minimize deformation? I can help any of you with wall thickness, vs. CLR (center line radius) I can explain why your bends are flat on the outside, or why you are getting wrinkles on the inside of the bend. I can explain the benefits of having elliptical dies vs. having a true radius die. Even if your questions are about handrail, ADA (Americans with disabilities act) and what specifications you need.

Tube bending, tube benders? I can answer your questions.......period. Even if it is not a Baileigh bender. I eat, sleep and breath tube bending.

Is that Guru enough for you? :)

Morrisman
08-27-2010, 12:34 PM
Well, where do I start? :rolleyes:......

....Even if your questions are about handrail, ADA (Americans with disabilities act) and what specifications you need.

Tube bending, tube benders? I can answer your questions.......period. Even if it is not a Baileigh bender. I eat, sleep and breath tube bending.

Is that Guru enough for you? :)


That works for me dude. :D

117harv
08-27-2010, 01:31 PM
Any other tube bending questions for the tube bending guru?

Yes, can you tell me how to get people to stop calling it PIPE.

BAILEIGH INC
08-27-2010, 04:11 PM
Yes, can you tell me how to get people to stop calling it PIPE.


I deal with that same problem all day long. :D

InDaShop
08-28-2010, 01:41 PM
Is that Guru enough for you? :)
[/FONT][/SIZE]

Yep sure does, now post up some of your work.

hotrod316
08-28-2010, 02:59 PM
it may sound nutty but it worked for us. To do exhaust stuffs we tack welded the 1.3/4" exhaust tubing to the die and obtained very nice bends. There is mild deformation but if a customer needs exhaust tubing bent and you have the correct size die- it is possible. Our use was for zoomie headers for a FED.

BAILEIGH INC
08-29-2010, 03:16 PM
Yep sure does, now post up some of your work.


Not a problem......stay tuned :cool:

Pics will be posted.

BAILEIGH INC
08-30-2010, 08:54 AM
Yep sure does, now post up some of your work.


Here is just a sample on what goes on here on a daily basis. Let me know if you need more examples. :D

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/IM001154.jpg



http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/IM000957.jpg

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/DSC08610-1.jpg

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/DSC08396.jpg

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/DSC08395.jpg

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/DSC08040.jpg

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/DSC04405.jpg

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/DSC02957.jpg

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/DSC02764.jpg

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/1SQAluminum083R4003.jpg

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/StainlessSteelbendsonastandardshed40003.jpg

gearheadbill
08-30-2010, 09:33 AM
I'm sure convinced

budd
08-30-2010, 09:54 AM
your the man, so i have been asked about bending polished stainless tube, 1-1/2" with a 1/16" wall, i'm pretty sure its going to need a little repolish afterwards, i've heard that other shops just will not do it? thanks

BAILEIGH INC
08-30-2010, 10:07 AM
your the man, so i have been asked about bending polished stainless tube, 1-1/2" with a 1/16" wall, i'm pretty sure its going to need a little repolish afterwards, i've heard that other shops just will not do it? thanks


If your stainless tube or pipe has a #3 finish, it will bend up nice with standard tooling, like this.

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/StainlessSteelbendsonastandardshed40003.jpg

If your stainless has a mirror # 8 finish, special tooling might be required.

With the correct tooling, a true radius die and a nylon or plastic counter bend die or plastic rollers, you can bend stainless with virtually no marks.

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/stainlessbend4.jpg

budd
08-30-2010, 10:43 AM
its for rear bumpers, boat radar mounts and truck racks, and its polished, not sure of the numbers, i have what i call brushed finished tube and it bends fine. thanks

BAILEIGH INC
08-30-2010, 10:53 AM
its for rear bumpers, boat radar mounts and truck racks, and its polished, not sure of the numbers, i have what i call brushed finished tube and it bends fine. thanks


I often deal with marine applications.....tuna towers, bow rails on yachts, radar towers. These types of applications work well with nylon tooling and give you a nice looking bend.

hugh m
08-30-2010, 11:35 AM
We've talked about using plastic strips for lube, but never heard of nylon tooling...could you tell us a little about it?

BAILEIGH INC
08-30-2010, 11:40 AM
We've talked about using plastic strips for lube, but never heard of nylon tooling...could you tell us a little about it?

Notice there is not a counter bend die on this bender. They are actually nylon rollers. Bends up stainless real nice!



http://www.bii1.com/images/rotary-draw-benders/rdb-325-closeup2-large.jpg

http://www.bii1.com/images/rotary-draw-benders/rotary-draw-bender-rdb325-topview-large.jpg

budd
08-30-2010, 01:31 PM
thanks, i just bought some 3" UHMW for a different boat peoject and i have enough left over to make some rollers, and i just saw a neat inside radius attachment for a lathe.

BAILEIGH INC
08-30-2010, 01:39 PM
thanks, i just bought some 3" UHMW for a different boat peoject and i have enough left over to make some rollers, and i just saw a neat inside radius attachment for a lathe.

Cool man!

Let's see some pics and see how it turns out.

budd
08-31-2010, 12:34 PM
heres a beauty of a homemade tube bender, and also one of his radius cutter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47QjQpqdMts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyTWmCeAJGs&feature=related

heres a good look at a radius cutter, would need to be cut deaper for a tube bender is all.

http://www.youtube.com/user/CARDAN531#p/u/26/c-G2FV67g4c

BAILEIGH INC
09-14-2010, 03:50 PM
heres a beauty of a homemade tube bender, and also one of his radius cutter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47QjQpqdMts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyTWmCeAJGs&feature=related

heres a good look at a radius cutter, would need to be cut deaper for a tube bender is all.

http://www.youtube.com/user/CARDAN531#p/u/26/c-G2FV67g4c


Nice!

nash011
12-01-2010, 07:17 PM
hey guys i got a question about bending 4" SS pipe on a 5.5 CLR, does not matter what i do, (increase the pressure on my pressure die, push....) The wiper is positioned good, with no positive or negative rake, the mandrel is 4 ball brass! the wrinkles r located right at the beginning of the bend, and the rest looks fine!! i also checked the position of my clamp die, to make sure its clamping with the even pressure on the tube!! i m not sure what else to try, and dont feel like wasting money since this material is not cheap!!! if someone has any suggestions or solutions, please help!!!!! thank you!

BAILEIGH INC
12-01-2010, 07:33 PM
hey guys i got a question about bending 4" SS pipe on a 5.5 CLR, does not matter what i do, (increase the pressure on my pressure die, push....) The wiper is positioned good, with no positive or negative rake, the mandrel is 4 ball brass! the wrinkles r located right at the beginning of the bend, and the rest looks fine!! i also checked the position of my clamp die, to make sure its clamping with the even pressure on the tube!! i m not sure what else to try, and dont feel like wasting money since this material is not cheap!!! if someone has any suggestions or solutions, please help!!!!! thank you!


What bender do you have?

nash011
12-01-2010, 07:44 PM
robitec, schwarze R130-CNC-MR bender if that helps!!!!!

BAILEIGH INC
12-01-2010, 08:15 PM
robitec, schwarze R130-CNC-MR bender if that helps!!!!!


WOW! :eek:

I just checked out their website.

http://www.tubefirst.com/newsphotos/robitec2.jpg

Now that is a bender!

Post up some pics of the bend and lets check it out.

nash011
12-01-2010, 08:17 PM
hehehe, yeah its pretty big and powerful, i will post some pics tom, and hopefully someone will be able to help me! thank you in advance!!

nash011
12-02-2010, 08:41 PM
here r some pics, of the bend, and again they r located right at the beginning!

BAILEIGH INC
12-14-2010, 04:48 PM
here r some pics, of the bend, and again they r located right at the beginning!


Still having the problem?

BAILEIGH INC
01-31-2011, 04:54 PM
Any more questions on tube bending?

BAILEIGH INC
03-15-2011, 10:51 AM
Good stuff right here!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6336436#post6336436

:cool:

gil-+
03-29-2011, 02:35 PM
new to form
i just received a hossfeld 2 bender and im wondering how to bend to degrees when there isn't any degree scale on the hossfeld bender?

BAILEIGH INC
03-29-2011, 02:46 PM
new to form
i just received a hossfeld 2 bender and im wondering how to bend to degrees when there isn't any degree scale on the hossfeld bender?

http://www.vansantent.com/images/bend_protractors.jpg


Search Ebay for angle finders

Jogyver
03-29-2011, 04:09 PM
Sand bendng is not easy with flame heating. One time it took 5 pieces to get the bend to be within 10% of the dimension needed. We used a wood pattern and 4 oxy/ ac torches.Keeping the heat uniform was the biggest challenge.
Then we found the easy way to do it. You need to get the heat uniform throughout the pipe. The most effective way to do this is with high frequency induced current. Of course this process is not very affordable . I was lucky to know someone in the piping and boiler tube bending industry. We packed the 2" dia. w/ .120" DOM tubing with oiled sand. The placed it on a steel bending table which had holes drilled at various pitches. We installed roller pins in the table for shape need. Heated the pipe up 875 F with the current . It was orange hot. Then used the roller ram to push the pipe up against the stationary roller pins. Air cooled , followed with a water quench . The finished bend had no dimples, flat spots or kinks. And the bend dimension was dead on. My cost a couple cold cases and a bit of welding.

ZX14DREAM
04-05-2011, 03:24 PM
Hello HAMB members,
My first post here, looks like lots of info.
I found this site while searching for information on roll benders.
I hope to make my own as the size unit needed for the tube/pipe I wish to use is EXPENSIVE
I have access to an old commercial washer.
it is large industrial solution washer with a 200+ lb tub.
The unit has 3 motors ,air compressor w/air brake, water pump, full siemens/allen bradley control panel and a whole lots of plumbing related stuff that can be stripped off.
With the tub and front elements stripped it would start to look very similar to the 3 roll benders on the market that are capable of 4" SCH40.
This unit has gear reduction and lots of other control elements.
I am hoping to design to use existing rollers from BAILEIGH or similar.
So what do you think, am I on the right track?
I'll post pics soon.

ZX14DREAM
04-07-2011, 08:43 AM
here r some pics, of the bend, and again they r located right at the beginning!
Could that be caused by a worn die or rollers lead-in surface?
Hard to tell from the picture is that protruding out more than in?

kkustomz
04-09-2011, 08:32 AM
I have a Jd square model 4 bender and I have been wanting to make a die to bend 1-5/8" od header tubing in a 3.5" radius. 5.5" radius just won't cut it. Will I be able to bend the tube with minimal distortion to 3.5" radius? And if so what wall thickness? Thanks

budd
04-09-2011, 09:35 AM
i think your going to need a mandrel bender, heres a chart that will tell what type of mandrel you need, i just watched a video of the jd 4 and if your a bright guy you could build a mandrel atachment for it.

http://www.omni-x.cz/en/c/mandrel-and-wiper-die-selection-chart/mandrel-and-wiper-die-selection-chart.htm

I have a Jd square model 4 bender and I have been wanting to make a die to bend 1-5/8" od header tubing in a 3.5" radius. 5.5" radius just won't cut it. Will I be able to bend the tube with minimal distortion to 3.5" radius? And if so what wall thickness? Thanks

kkustomz
04-09-2011, 11:01 AM
The part that will be difficult is the mandrel that goes on the tube would have to attach to the follower part of a jd2 bender, so you would be limited on lengths you could bend . Does someone have pics of the homemade mandrels?

BAILEIGH INC
04-11-2011, 07:52 AM
I dont think you could set up a JD2 with an internal mandrel easily.

kkustomz
04-11-2011, 08:44 PM
can I bend a 1-5/8" tube in a 3.5 radius without it distorting bad with no mandrel?

BAILEIGH INC
04-11-2011, 08:47 PM
can I bend a 1-5/8" tube in a 3.5 radius without it distorting bad with no mandrel?

What is the wall thickness.

kkustomz
04-12-2011, 02:07 AM
Thats part of the question, what would you suggest? And is it even doable thick or thin? I guess 14 or 16 gauge are my options

BAILEIGH INC
04-12-2011, 07:53 AM
Thats part of the question, what would you suggest? And is it even doable thick or thin? I guess 14 or 16 gauge are my options


No, that is way too thin to bend that tight without an internal mandrel.

the shadow
05-19-2011, 05:02 PM
I am in need of a hamb'r who has mastered a tube roller to make me a 13.5" X 3/4" ring for a custom steering wheel. I hate to sound cheap but I am not going to run out & bu equipment for one project so i fugured I'd ask here? If anyone can help or direct me to someone who can do it please PM me.
thanks,
Paul

jeroentje
05-23-2011, 03:50 PM
Hi shane,

Im building my own tube bender and tube dies.

I have bending dies Sizes like in the picture (MM)
Tube 0.866 inch (22MM) CLR 5.51" (140 MM)
Tube 1.1 inch (28MM) CLR 7.87" (200MM)
Tube 1.25 inch (32MM) CLR 8.85" (225M)
Tube 1.49 inch (38MM) CLR 8.85" (225MM)

This is all done with the formula 3 to 4 times the outer tube diameter.....

I use standard mild steel tubing no fancy stuff, and a aluminium counter die (with a bit grease).

But it seems that i can't get a decent bend made with the 32mm die :confused:

you posted a reply you where saying you know everything about ube bending soooo :D


Hope to hear from you soon.


cheers

jeroen

BAILEIGH INC
05-23-2011, 04:43 PM
Hi shane,

Im building my own tube bender and tube dies.

I have bending dies Sizes like in the picture (MM)
Tube 0.866 inch (22MM) CLR 5.51" (140 MM)
Tube 1.1 inch (28MM) CLR 7.87" (200MM)
Tube 1.25 inch (32MM) CLR 8.85" (225M)
Tube 1.49 inch (38MM) CLR 8.85" (225MM)

This is all done with the formula 3 to 4 times the outer tube diameter.....

I use standard mild steel tubing no fancy stuff, and a aluminium counter die (with a bit grease).

But it seems that i can't get a decent bend made with the 32mm die :confused:

you posted a reply you where saying you know everything about ube bending soooo :D


Hope to hear from you soon.


cheers

jeroen

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/3inchpipeCD001-1.jpg


I think you might be seeing that flattening due to your "true radius" counter bend die. Imagine if you were to bend tube over your knee. It's naturally going to want to flatten on the outside of the bend. A way to counter this effect is to have an elliptical shaped counter die to squeeze the material and not let it flatten.

See how our aluminum / bronze counter bend die is not "true radius?" Notice it is not perfectly round. It has an slight egg or elliptical shape. This helps with the flat bend problem.

Hope this helps.

jeroentje
05-24-2011, 03:46 PM
Aha that sounds logical...:rolleyes:

Is there a sort of formula or standard for how much elliptical shape i need, i mean 5% of the outside tube diameter for example?

I have more raw die material lying around, i think im making the next dies with a bigger CLR.

Thanks for your help.


greets

jeroen

BAILEIGH INC
05-24-2011, 03:57 PM
Aha that sounds logical...:rolleyes:

Is there a sort of formula or standard for how much elliptical shape i need, i mean 5% of the outside tube diameter for example?

I have more raw die material lying around, i think im making the next dies with a bigger CLR.

Thanks for your help.


greets

jeroen

Not sure of a formula or a % of an ellptical shape. (not sure I can share that info on a forum)

I'm sure any eliptical shape would be an improvement

jeroentje
05-24-2011, 04:12 PM
I understand ;)

I post the pictures of de new die and bend when i made them(i hope soon).

Greets

CoolHand
05-24-2011, 04:41 PM
Aha that sounds logical...:rolleyes:

Is there a sort of formula or standard for how much elliptical shape i need, i mean 5% of the outside tube diameter for example?

I have more raw die material lying around, i think im making the next dies with a bigger CLR.

Thanks for your help.


greets

jeroen

I'd measure what you have now (the flat sided tube) to determine how flat it really is, and then use that dimension as the basis for your ellipse die.

Start by pinching it half as much as it flattened on each side (half on top, half on the bottom) and see what happens.

You will then have a baseline to adjust from.

If you don't have any data to work from, you're into cut-n-try territory.

Take your best guess to start, and go from there.

BAILEIGH INC
05-24-2011, 04:48 PM
I'd measure what you have now (the flat sided tube) to determine how flat it really is, and then use that dimension as the basis for your ellipse die.

Start by pinching it half as much as it flattened on each side (half on top, half on the bottom) and see what happens.

You will then have a baseline to adjust from.

If you don't have any data to work from, you're into cut-n-try territory.

Take your best guess to start, and go from there.

:cool: thanks!

jeroentje
05-25-2011, 03:58 PM
Most of the time that's the standard, Trial & error :D.

Im thinking of making a sort of 2 part die so i can adjust it, that saves me a lot of time in the "testing fase".

Im dubbing about how to shape it....i can shape it like the pointiest side of an egg (don't now how, except with an cnc mill) or just make it like an oval which is much easier to shape for me.

i gues if the tube is formed in an oval shape it ok no matter how.


First i have to finish a couple off other project's.
My bike keeps falling, so....(also when im not on it by the way)

Thanks for the response

greets jeroen

jeroentje
05-27-2011, 03:55 PM
For some one who want to learn more about tube bending and mandrel building

http://www.bendtooling.com/

A lot of info and pic's

bye

jeroentje
05-27-2011, 04:13 PM
tube bending trouble shooting.

http://69.15.95.27/getattachment.php?data=NDR8T21uaS14IHBvc3Rlci5wZGY %3D

Greets jeroen

jeroentje
06-10-2011, 04:49 PM
Today i saw an episode of "how it's made" on discovery channel in holland.
1 item was about making a trombone or trompet and bending the ultra thin pipe, what they did was filling it with soap water and putting it in the freezer (and then bend it in a normal bender).
Some people talk about filling with lead, sand, powder etc but never something like this....

Any body heard from this methode or tryed this with thin wall pipe?

greets

BAILEIGH INC
09-07-2011, 10:39 AM
Today i saw an episode of "how it's made" on discovery channel in holland.
1 item was about making a trombone or trompet and bending the ultra thin pipe, what they did was filling it with soap water and putting it in the freezer (and then bend it in a normal bender).
Some people talk about filling with lead, sand, powder etc but never something like this....

Any body heard from this methode or tryed this with thin wall pipe?

greets

I have heard of Cero bend. It's a low melt alloy.

XxStrait-EdgexX
09-17-2011, 10:23 PM
I was wondering how effective the 12 ton harbor freight hydraulic bender is with exhaust tubing????? I just bought it tonight and I haven't got to play with it yet. Any tips or tricks so I don't ruin too much of my tubing??? I'm gonna be making some slight bends and a few "L" shaped bends for my 50 dodge.

badshifter
09-17-2011, 10:40 PM
I was wondering how effective the 12 ton harbor freight hydraulic bender is with exhaust tubing????? I just bought it tonight and I haven't got to play with it yet. Any tips or tricks so I don't ruin too much of my tubing??? I'm gonna be making some slight bends and a few "L" shaped bends for my 50 dodge.

I predict other than the slightest of bends, you are going to scrap all of your exhaust tubing. It's a pretty crude pipe bender, pipe having a much heavier wall than exhaust tubing. It works, to a degree on small diameter tubing, but from 1 1/2" and up 16 gauge it collapses the tube. Did I mention my neighbor went through all this?

XxStrait-EdgexX
09-18-2011, 12:58 AM
Well shit. Not what I wanted to hear.... I'll try to take it easy and see what happens. If it doesn't work worth a damn I'll return the p.o.s. And let you guys know of course.

seventeenseconds
01-12-2012, 09:12 PM
This is an awesome thread!

I'm getting ready to start a project that's going to require a couple of 3" radius bends on 1"x2"x.049" rectangular tubing. Is there any hope to bend this without a mandrel? I'm looking to make a DIY bender for this, I have access to a Hossfeld and I'm considering making a set of dies for it. I'm a total noob to rectangular tubing bending, any advice would be greatly appreciated!

BAILEIGH INC
01-13-2012, 07:49 AM
This is an awesome thread!

I'm getting ready to start a project that's going to require a couple of 3" radius bends on 1"x2"x.049" rectangular tubing. Is there any hope to bend this without a mandrel? I'm looking to make a DIY bender for this, I have access to a Hossfeld and I'm considering making a set of dies for it. I'm a total noob to rectangular tubing bending, any advice would be greatly appreciated!


I would be happy to help. ;)

seventeenseconds
01-13-2012, 02:54 PM
Do you think that for tubing that thin I'll need a mandrel?

BAILEIGH INC
01-13-2012, 04:22 PM
Do you think that for tubing that thin I'll need a mandrel?


Totally a mandrel application. That will pucker like a pop can.

midwestmetalworks
01-14-2012, 04:32 PM
I just bought a used Hossfeld #2 bender with the original hydraulic set up and the special "L" shaped attachment for doing up to 180 degree bends. The problem is I don't have any of the hydraulics. What is the simplest and most cost effective way to adding hydraulic power? I already tried the Harbor Freight air over hydraulic cylinder and it puked fluid all over my shop floor. Also, I would like the cylinder to retract (double acting or spring return ram?).

60 Belair
02-01-2012, 07:24 PM
Hi I just purchased a jd model 3 tube bender I am making my own stand for it most of the stands I see look realitivly short for a comfortable pull. What height are you guys at on the handle for ease and usability.:) Thanks Andy

BAILEIGH INC
03-02-2012, 08:26 AM
I just bought a used Hossfeld #2 bender with the original hydraulic set up and the special "L" shaped attachment for doing up to 180 degree bends. The problem is I don't have any of the hydraulics. What is the simplest and most cost effective way to adding hydraulic power? I already tried the Harbor Freight air over hydraulic cylinder and it puked fluid all over my shop floor. Also, I would like the cylinder to retract (double acting or spring return ram?).

Copperhead fab has adapters I think

TheEquineFencer
05-15-2012, 08:48 PM
4 WIW, here's a link to a free bending guide.

http://www.midmoracing.com/bendit.htm

SniffnPaint
05-15-2012, 09:51 PM
Alright, Ill throw a curveball. The material is T-110 Copper tubing 1.13" x 1.13" square x .63" round ID tubing. It comes in 40' lengths from Finland.

I anneal the tubing with a natural gas torch as its pulled around a buck. Basically there is a 22" diameter drum supported horizontally by two a-frames bolted to the floor. (I wish I had a picture of the fixture) On the right side of the a-frame is a pulley, attatched to the pulley is a cable to an electric hoist.
As I anneal the tubing i bump UP on the crane to wrap the tube around the drum about 40 degrees at a time. 160' of tube and hours of silver soldering later I have super secret cooling coils. You dont see these everyday.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/P5190103.jpg (http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/?action=view&current=P5190103.jpg)

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/P5190111.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/P5190103.jpg

BAILEIGH INC
05-16-2012, 12:15 PM
Alright, Ill throw a curveball. The material is T-110 Copper tubing 1.13" x 1.13" square x .63" round ID tubing. It comes in 40' lengths from Finland.

I anneal the tubing with a natural gas torch as its pulled around a buck. Basically there is a 22" diameter drum supported horizontally by two a-frames bolted to the floor. (I wish I had a picture of the fixture) On the right side of the a-frame is a pulley, attatched to the pulley is a cable to an electric hoist.
As I anneal the tubing i bump UP on the crane to wrap the tube around the drum about 40 degrees at a time. 160' of tube and hours of silver soldering later I have super secret cooling coils. You dont see these everyday.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/P5190103.jpg (http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/?action=view&current=P5190103.jpg)

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/P5190111.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/P5190103.jpg


Wow :cool:

JustBryan
05-18-2012, 11:45 AM
WOWx2

stealthcruiser
05-23-2012, 08:07 AM
Alright, Ill throw a curveball. The material is T-110 Copper tubing 1.13" x 1.13" square x .63" round ID tubing. It comes in 40' lengths from Finland.

I anneal the tubing with a natural gas torch as its pulled around a buck. Basically there is a 22" diameter drum supported horizontally by two a-frames bolted to the floor. (I wish I had a picture of the fixture) On the right side of the a-frame is a pulley, attatched to the pulley is a cable to an electric hoist.
As I anneal the tubing i bump UP on the crane to wrap the tube around the drum about 40 degrees at a time. 160' of tube and hours of silver soldering later I have super secret cooling coils. You dont see these everyday.



http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/P5190103.jpg (http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/?action=view&current=P5190103.jpg)

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/P5190111.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/P5190103.jpg


So, are they so super secret you can't divulge?...............Submarine parts?:eek:

exwestracer
05-23-2012, 09:04 AM
Square tube with a round ID... You're right, you don't see that every day. Neat stuff!

SniffnPaint
05-29-2012, 07:28 PM
Yes super secret.

BAILEIGH INC
05-30-2012, 10:31 AM
Any other questions on tube bedning or chassis fabrication?

bodi
06-08-2012, 03:05 AM
You still looking for pictures of sand filled tight radius bends? I have some 14 ga. AK exhaust tubing and sand. I could probably throw some in my big radial die walking shoe exhaust tubing machine for shits and giggles if you'd like.

BAILEIGH INC
06-21-2012, 08:25 PM
Any more tube bending questions for the guru?

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2

Suicide-D
11-21-2012, 05:55 AM
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=34914&pictureid=427247

I picked this bender up from a co-worker for about a third of the price of a new one. I haven't bent a thing with it, but it looks purdy.

1 5/8 die and a ratcheting gear drive.

here's a better pic of the gear drive.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=34914&pictureid=427248

roseville carl
11-21-2012, 12:48 PM
Originally Posted by SniffnPaint http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/hamb/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7772820#post7772820)
Alright, Ill throw a curveball. The material is T-110 Copper tubing 1.13" x 1.13" square x .63" round ID tubing. It comes in 40' lengths from Finland.

I anneal the tubing with a natural gas torch as its pulled around a buck. Basically there is a 22" diameter drum supported horizontally by two a-frames bolted to the floor. (I wish I had a picture of the fixture) On the right side of the a-frame is a pulley, attatched to the pulley is a cable to an electric hoist.
As I anneal the tubing i bump UP on the crane to wrap the tube around the drum about 40 degrees at a time. 160' of tube and hours of silver soldering later I have super secret cooling coils. You dont see these everyday.



http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/P5190103.jpg (http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/00Design/?action=view&current=P5190103.jpg)

Uh this ain't for a still is it??????

BAILEIGH INC
05-01-2013, 07:43 PM
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=34914&pictureid=427247

I picked this bender up from a co-worker for about a third of the price of a new one. I haven't bent a thing with it, but it looks purdy.

1 5/8 die and a ratcheting gear drive.

here's a better pic of the gear drive.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=34914&pictureid=427248


JMR builds a nice bender, sold plenty of them in my day. Nice score.

paul hebert
05-03-2013, 07:42 AM
Great infomation. Thanks for this post.

Jeff-72
07-07-2013, 01:17 PM
Hi Shane,

Good thread - thank you.

I wish I would have seen this before I bought my tube bender.

I am new to this so you know, but do have a mechanical and fabricating background. So lease excuse my lack of proper terninology for this...

I am building a cage - DOM 1025 - 2" - .120
First one I have done.

I bought a Woodward fab manual bender - out of the box my opinion of it is not good. Terrible instructions etc etc. mandrels are full of tooling marks, so bad I spent an entire afternoon filing and polishing, the round mandrel - the part the holds the pipe hoop broke off. Spent the morning fixing and gusseting that.
At this point the bender is mounted, not scoring or peeling back the tube (it was that bad), and bending.

3/4 chromoly no problem.

2" .120 DOM 1025 - it flattens the bend - not alot but enough - too much for me, and int the process of the tube flattening, it leaves tooling marks on the outside edge as it expands. As I said it is not that much, but enough I can not accept it and question if it would pass tech inspection. (Sanctioning body is SCORE by the way - off road racing)

I don't know if the mandrel is too shallow, or the bender is at max cap., (it takes alot of pull to get it too bend), or if I am missing something? Or just scrap this thing, already wasted one weekend just to get it to this point - and order one of yours. Which I will ultimately do at some point. But I do have about $1k into this thing at this point, would like to see if I can do this job for now and re-tool after. (That is my wallet speaking). Not too mention time frame - starting to get squeezed for time. I have been told of filling with sand and wetting it and packing it etc etc etc... I have no interest in a jimmy fix or fixing the symptoms, unless that really is the procedure??...

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks
Jeff

BAILEIGH INC
07-07-2013, 01:53 PM
Hi Shane,

Good thread - thank you.

I wish I would have seen this before I bought my tube bender.

I am new to this so you know, but do have a mechanical and fabricating background. So lease excuse my lack of proper terninology for this...

I am building a cage - DOM 1025 - 2" - .120
First one I have done.

I bought a Woodward fab manual bender - out of the box my opinion of it is not good. Terrible instructions etc etc. mandrels are full of tooling marks, so bad I spent an entire afternoon filing and polishing, the round mandrel - the part the holds the pipe hoop broke off. Spent the morning fixing and gusseting that.
At this point the bender is mounted, not scoring or peeling back the tube (it was that bad), and bending.

3/4 chromoly no problem.

2" .120 DOM 1025 - it flattens the bend - not alot but enough - too much for me, and int the process of the tube flattening, it leaves tooling marks on the outside edge as it expands. As I said it is not that much, but enough I can not accept it and question if it would pass tech inspection. (Sanctioning body is SCORE by the way - off road racing)

I don't know if the mandrel is too shallow, or the bender is at max cap., (it takes alot of pull to get it too bend), or if I am missing something? Or just scrap this thing, already wasted one weekend just to get it to this point - and order one of yours. Which I will ultimately do at some point. But I do have about $1k into this thing at this point, would like to see if I can do this job for now and re-tool after. (That is my wallet speaking). Not too mention time frame - starting to get squeezed for time. I have been told of filling with sand and wetting it and packing it etc etc etc... I have no interest in a jimmy fix or fixing the symptoms, unless that really is the procedure??...

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks
Jeff

No worries, I can help and glad to do it. :cool:

The tube flattening could be caused by a couple reasons.

The "true radius" dies that came with your bender. They offer no "pinch" from top to bottom on the counter bend and forming die. This can cause flattening.

Another thing to check would be to make sure the tube is not slipping as you bend it. Mark it with a magic marker and see if it "pulls" through as you bend. If it does, additional clamping can help with the flattening.

2" x .120" wall should bend up nice if your bending process and tooling are correct.

If you need additional help, take some pics and send them over to me shenderson@baileighindustrial.com I would be more than happy to help, just give me a call 920-482-3220

....all for the love of tube bending :)

Jeff-72
07-07-2013, 01:55 PM
Thank you, I'll give those a try this afternoon and let you know how I make out. Ill take a few pictures as well as send along.

Jeff

BAILEIGH INC
07-07-2013, 02:31 PM
Thank you, I'll give those a try this afternoon and let you know how I make out. Ill take a few pictures as well as send along.

Jeff


I'll be waiting to hear from you. Good luck!

Jeff-72
07-07-2013, 06:17 PM
Hi Shane,

Well it worked a bit better, but still some flattening of the tubes. And tooling marks.

I sent you an email, with explanations and pics. Take a look when you can and let me know what you think.

Thanks again,
Jeff.

Jeff-72
07-07-2013, 06:39 PM
Hi Shane,

Well it worked a bit better, but still some flattening of the tubes. And tooling marks.

I sent you an email, with explanations and pics. Take a look when you can and let me know what you think.

Thanks again,
Jeff.

BAILEIGH INC
07-08-2013, 08:08 AM
Hi Shane,

Well it worked a bit better, but still some flattening of the tubes. And tooling marks.

I sent you an email, with explanations and pics. Take a look when you can and let me know what you think.

Thanks again,
Jeff.


No problem Jeff, I'm on it.

BAILEIGH INC
08-14-2013, 08:40 AM
Any other tube bending questions?

I am happy to help any of you, even if it is not a Baileigh bender. I have sold every bender on the market and know them all like the back of my hand.

Here to help. :cool:

BAILEIGH INC
11-01-2013, 02:31 PM
Tube bending is my life.........and metal shaping.....:cool: