Silicon brake fluid in a '54 Chevy?

[Nads]

I just bought an NOS Delco MC for my '54 Chevy. I've rebuilt the old sucker three times and I don't want to do the job again, it's a bitch just getting the MC out. Will silicon brake fluid work in these old systems? What's the proper procedure to evacuate the old fluid and replace it with this new fangled stuff?
Anyone had good luck with silicon fluid?

Thanks.

[RileyRacing]

I wouldn't use it unless it was a fresh system. I don't even think it's miscible (sp) with regular DOT3 or 4. But I am probably wrong. Anyways, make sure there is no old brake fluid in the system.

Jason

[continentaljohn]

I woundn't do it, the problem I have found out is , silicon is super slippery and finds it's way around the smallest cracks. My buddy had it in his 39 moredoor had problem with the residual valve, kept creeping past it and loosing pedal. Wildwood told them to ditch the silicon , less problems. Also your whole system will have to be drained and clean as best as possible. I have it in my car it's ok but not worth the hassles. If you can keep a hard pedal your fine, but if she gets soft in a day or so, you'll have nothing but problem till the leak is found
thanks continental

[Nads]

Thanks guys. The system is not new, the wheel cylinders were replaced probably three years ago. I shouldn't have attempted to rebuild the MC the last time, it definitely had some bad pitting. It's hard to hone a dead ended cylinder properly, even if I could have gotten the walls cleaned up they might have been too big for a good seal.
The brakes work really well, but the MC's been leaking for a couple of months now.
Gawd I wish I had a lift to make the job easier, this is one job on a '54 Chevy that's a real bear. I don't have room for a firewall mounted MC because I have a hydraulic clutch MC in the way.
I'll just go DOT3. I guess it's a good idea to replace brake fluid once a year. Fix it and forget it isn't the best policy.

[CharlieLed]

Tha major benefit of the silicone is that it doesn't hold water. If you maintain your present system, that is, change the fluid on a regular basis, you shouldn't have a problem. I broke down and bought one of those self-bleeders from Sears awhile ago and now I can flush the system and fill it with new fluid in less than an hour by myself. Fluid is relatively inexpensive compared to new brake components...

[ELpolacko]

Nads, I wouldn't use silcone fluid either. It is expesnive and does not perform as well as regular Dot 3 or 4 fluid. Its major advantage for its inablility to attack paint. If you have nicely painted undercarriage parts you want to keep from getting eaten up, use a squirt bottle with plain water and wash down any spilled fluid.

If you want some high perfomance fluid look into the stuff offered by Girling, Willwood, Tilton, etc. They offer some really impressive stuff. IF you just want a really good fluid without the expense of the racing stuff, Castrol GTLMA Dot5 fluid is good stuff and will exceed most of our cars abilities. If I remember correclty it is a silcone dirivitive but is not pure silicone fluid and can mix with other fluids. Check it out, http://www.castrolusa.com/canada/brake.html

Everyone should replace all the brake fluid in thier cars and trucks every 3-5 years or so. Regular Dot 3/4 fluid will absorb moisture and will boil at a lower temprature. This moisture is also what causes corrosion inside the system.

[Luckypabst]

I ran DOT 5 in my Dodge, then the Plymouth with no troubles at all. Up front were late model discs, the rear had rebuilt 50 year old stock wheel cylinders

What I understand is you need absolutely new rubber everything. They say the DOT 5 will cause rubber previously used with DOT 3 or 4 to swell and eventually fail.

One other concern is that it's supposedly harder to get the bubbles out of DOT 5, especially when you have many twists and turns in the lines.

Chris

[TagMan]

I changed over to silicone brake fluid in 1984 and it was still holding up fine when the car ('37 Chevy sedan) was sold about 2-years ago - roughly 16+ years with no problems and virtually maintenance free. I also have it presently in my '37 coupe (10 years) & '55 Buick (6 years). I've never had any problems with it, in any of my cars.
When I changed over, I replaced all rubber components, including hoses, and thoroughly blew the lines out with compressed air and solvent, to make sure there was no DOT3 left in the system anywhere. You must use all NEW rubber, not "NOS" crap you find at the swaps and for sure, none of the old rubber that's been in contact with DOT3 previously. If any of the wheel cylinders or master cylinder are at all pitted or worn, sleeve or replace the bad part. Too much honing increases the I.D. and reduces the seal's squeeze. If you think the steel lines might be bad (remember they rot from the inside - out), replace 'em. Brakes are NOT the place to be cheap or do half-assed work, unless you want to leave the wife some money. Done right, DOT5 is terrific stuff. Anything that doesn't suck up the water in the high humidity in our area (New York), has gotta be good.
My 2¢

[Crestliner]

I had it in my model a delivery for 7 years before I sold it and I'll bet its still in it. I have it in my 37 p/u for 11 years with no problems except it does eat pressure type brake light switches. If I had time when the crestliner needed repaired it would have silicon in it. As far as brake light switch, I put one from a early 50s chevy with the lever.

[Nads]

Well shoot, I and Draglinks got her finished tonight....what a hassle. Long story short, I went with Girling DOT4, no problems, she stops just fine. The ride over to his shop sitting on a milk crate, that's another story entirely.