A Body mount, wood or rubber

[PDX Lefty]

The A has wood between the body and the frame. Sine it needs replaced I was thinking of replacing this with rubber. Does any know if some one sells this already made or is it a bad idea to use rubber on the A?

[C9]

If you're running an A body on an A frame, I'd replace the wood pieces with new ones.
Brookville has a very nice set, made of Rock Maple like the originals - darned stuff is hard as a rock - and it should be a total bolt-in.

I don't think the rubber will cut it in this case.
Mainly due to the clearances - and lack thereof - the body has from the frame.

On my 31 on 32 frame rails roadster I used UHMW - a form of white plastic 70% stronger than Teflon - set between body and custom mounts.
The UHMW custom cut and fit.
(UHMW stasnds for Ultra High Molecular Weight and is available at shops that handle rubber (neoprene in bulk sheets) as well as plastics houses.
Cost is about 10-20% the cost of Teflon and it cuts easily with hole saws and drills.

Rubber would have worked ok, but I think the UHMW is a better choice.

The Rock Maple mounts aren't too expensive so that's a good way out for a sorta stock body/chassis combo.

[Tman]

C9 is right, wood is good.
It has excellent vibration dampening qualities. If you are worried about rot, dip em in boiled linseed oil.

[Digger_Dave]

[ QUOTE ]
C9 is right, wood is good.
It has excellent vibration dampening qualities.

[/ QUOTE ]

Most "A" restoration outlets stock NEW wood replacement pieces. Both for the body mounts and the top wood. (top bows, header pieces, etc.) Because they have them made in quantity, they are are a lot cheaper than trying to make them yourself. (plus some of the pieces are kind of "tricky" to shape)

[ QUOTE ]
If you are worried about rot, dip em in boiled linseed oil.

[/ QUOTE ]

Or several coats of SPAR VARNISH.

[Detonator]

Does anyone make a wood piece to go between a flat A body and a curved Deuce frame rail?

[PDX Lefty]

If you are worried about rot, dip em in boiled linseed oil.
Or several coats of SPAR VARNISH.


Thanks. Yes I was concerned about rot. Being in the rainy NW and planning to drive this year around.
Great advice!

[C9]

[ QUOTE ]
Does anyone make a wood piece to go between a flat A body and a curved Deuce frame rail?

[/ QUOTE ]

Don't think so, but I have seen em bandsawed from a piece of hardwood.
One really long cut on each cut to length piece will do it.
Hardest part is generating the pattern.

If a bandsaw wasn't available I'd bet a regular Skilsaw/circular saw would do it.
The curve is subtle enough that you could follow the line with said saw.

All that said, there are better ways out.
Some guys do a horizontal pie-cut at the cowl to bring the body down. Done right it looks good.

What worked for me on my 31 roadster was cutting off the rear frame horns and cutting out the little kick-in at the front bottom of the wheelwell which lowered the body into place. Sort of a mini-channel on a stock width Deuce frame.
You still end up with a gap, but it's only 1/4-3/8" and you can't see it unless you get down on your knees.

It helped that I used a Brookville body set up for 32 rails, but the only difference far as I know is the trunk floor is altered to accomodate the 32 frame and it has a built in channel on each side for the frame to go up into.
All of which would be easily done on a stock A body. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[Dirk35]

I made my own for my 35 pickup. It didnt take but one evening to make both sets, one for me, and one for Root's dad who loaned me the originals to use as patterns. Originals were in two peices joined by a finger joint, but I just used a biscuit joiner to join the two peices as a finger joiner bit is $100plus, and to have a shop do it wouldve added $50 for th ehour labor shop time, where as biscuit joints are ten cent each. It cost me less than a set of repo, but if consider time, I lost money.

I used Marine grade Laqour on mine.

Ill buy my next set.