Got the engine for my RPU finally.... a few ?'s

[Harrison]

I pulled the 283 for my RPU last Thursday. It came from a numbers-matching 1960 Chevy Impala.

My block is marked "3756519" - '58-'62, 283, 2 bolt main. The heads are marked "3774682" - '60-'64, 283/327, 70cc. According to www.motortec.com. (http://www.motortec.com.)

It had been sitting complete, air cleaner to oil pan, under a closed hood for years. It wasn't stuck and when I pulled the valve covers there wasn't a spot of sludge under them. Clean as a pin. Some thin paint was flaking off a freeze plug or two and under it the plugs shined like new. The engine has been painted red (even behind the flywheel/torque converter) and was wearing Corvette valve covers but running a two bbl carb.

This all leads me to believe it had been rebuilt not long before it was put out to pasture.

I'd naturally like to save myself the cost of tearing it down and rebuilding it. I'd like to flush the water jackets, install new gaskets, four bbl intake and carb, Duntov cam, and run it.

How can I flush it without "hot tanking" it? The water passager were a little "gritty" with rust. Is my Duntov cam selection wise? I'm running a '39 trans and '40 rear so jammin' gears and spinning tires isn't a major concern. Who makes/made an aluminum four bbl intake with the oil fill neck in the front of the thermostat housing? Will I need a dual plane intake or single plane - or will it even matter in this application?

Thanks, JH

[Deuce Roadster]

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I believe the Duntov cam is a good choice. It is fairly lumpy in a 283. It lacks low end torque... which is a good thing. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Lack of torque should NOT be a problem in a light car but does help with preventing 39/trans breakage.

I use a Weiand aluminum intake. Had it for years but see them on Ebay for $60 - $75 quite often.

http://photo.starblvd.net/~DeuceRoadster/2-4-1.jpg

I need to replace the air cleaner with something ole-timey.....just have not found the right one yet.



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[36-3window]

since you are gonna have to partially disassemble the motor to install the new cam,do yourself a favor and go a lttle bit further. pull the heads off,check the cylinder walls,pull out a couple valves from the heads to check their condition and the condition of the valve guides(badly worn valve guides is very common). take the pan off(you will have to get the timing chain cover off to change cams) and pull a couple caps and check the bearings. if everything is OK all it will cost you is price of a gasket set.

you will probabilly want to put in a new timing chain and oil pump anyway...they were weak links in older SBC's.

[choprods]

spray a little wd40 in each hole and then crank it with plugs out- then start it as it sets and see what you have......then you could mix up some weak muriatic acid and water and pour in cooling system and circulate it for a few more minutes then shut down and let sit overnite......drain and flush with plenty of water . this should clean it up or find that weak freeze plug!]

[manyolcars]

to clean the cooling system, put in a tablespoon of baking soda. The radiator repairman told me. I did to a 70 yr Model A engine in the spring. 6 months later I drained the water to put in antifreeze----The water was CLEAR! dual plane for hi torque, low revving street engine, single plane for hi revvving hi horse race engine

[Harrison]

Made more progress today. I decided I wouldn't be the guy always having to borrow a hoist when an engine needed to be pulled, lifted, etc...

I bought a two ton hoist, leveler, and engine stand.

(Now I can get it out of the back of my truck http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif)