49 Ford - Accelerator setup w/ stock pedal?

[ruttencutter]

Has anybody hooked up any sort of lokar throttle cable to a stock pedal in a 49? It is currently set up to simply push down a rod, which pivots and pulls back on the throttle linkage.

Problem is that the motor is in the way of this gizmo, and on the wrong side of the car. And my intake is a torker with the twisted mount, so I need to use a throttle cable.

Any hints on how to do this? I'm about 2-3 days work away from being done, but this is my next big hurdle.

Thanks,

-Scott

[DrDano]

I had to swap mine out for a different pedal that had a hinge to then push down on the pedal and it would pull back from the firewall on the hinge. Then I ran the Lokar cable setup to my carb. The Lokar setup was nearly the only way to do it with my two 94's, the stock firewall rod was too whimpy to open the carbs and would just twist.

[C9]

If you can find one, the 59 Ford throttle pedal/pivot mechanism makes a good bolt on for the 49-51 Fords.

All that's needed is to drill a couple of holes in the firewall for the mounting bolts and hole-saw one hole for the (factory) bent throttle mechanism to go through.
(Do the hole-saw bit first, then you'll be able to drill the mounting holes where required.)
Pay attention to how the throttle set up fits in the 59 (57's & 8's are the same) and you'll see how the mount fits.
The 49 firewall has a similar vertical curve in it and that's where the pedal fits. Comes out just right for your foot.

Once it's in all you need is a 3/16" or 1/4" throttle rod with Heims on the end and you're in business.
You can also use the 59's factory throttle rod (between pedal mechanism and carb).
You may have to shorten it a touch, but it's no big deal.

Early Mustang throttle pedals fit very much like the 59's do.

There are a lot of other throttle pedal setups that are easily adapted to cable and many of them have the cable setup to start with.

Either way you go, I'd make a point to get rid of the 49's Mickey Mouse throttle pedal setup. Seen more than a few of these get loose where the linkage between pedal and throttle pivot mechanism falls out of the cast rubber hole in the throttle pedal.

The 59 throttle mechanism will get the throttle rod over to the left side of the carb where you need it and there will be no conflicts with the engine/bellhousing.

You'll find as well, that if you run a throttle rod instead of cable, changes to the carburetion system are easy to accomplish.
It's easier to shorten or make a longer throttle rod than it is to alter or knock out a new bracket for the cable.

[SamIyam]

Is the motor in? How much did you get done over the weekend??
Sam.

[Bugman]

Sam-
Motor's in and mounted. We were up 'till about 5 sunday morning. About half of the accessorys are in place(pullys, rad, etc). We're hoping to have it fired tonight.

-Jeff

[ruttencutter]

Yeah, the motor is in and we fabbed mounts. Tranny is mounted. Hopefully tonight I will be starting it.

But I'm just trying to think of problems that I will have later this week. I have to have the car finished by Thursday night before I can think about taking it on Friday.

Right now I think we're really really close. Only obstructions are driveshaft, accelerator, shift linkage, exhaust, and trans cooler lines. Need to get my alternator and pulleys mounted too, and break in the engine (hopefully tonight).

The accelerator (and kickdown, but I'll worry about that later) is the only thing that has me puzzled right now. I don't think the stock accelerator rod is going to cut it... so a lokar cable, and a new pedal might do it. I'm just not sure where I can grab a new pedal at such short notice.

-S

[C9]

Ok . . . here's a totally not recommended deal, but . . . it works.
You're on your own if you try it.

Measure how much clearance you need between bellhousing and throttle linkage rod (the rod between pedal and throttle pivot).

It should only require an inch to inch and a half.
Move the throttle pedal over that distance or less, drill new holes in the floorboards. Two for the pedal and one for the throttle linkage rod.
You don't have to go the full distance with moving the throttle pedal left since the throttle linkage rod can operate at a slight angle.

Remove, heat and bend the throttle pivot's lower arm to match up with the throttle linkage rod.

While the throttle pivot is off, cut the right side vertical piece free and weld it to the left side.
Clean up the burrs, re-install.

What you'll end up with is a throttle pedal that's way too close to the brake pedal and things can get clumsy.
A little hazardous too, so think it through before you do it.

I really hesitated to post this info, but it does work.
I did it to one of my Olds into 50 Ford swaps and left it set up in the car just long enough to make the one hour drive - on country roads mostly - to my dad's house so I could use his taps, holesaws etc. to get the 59 pedal in.

[wingnutz]

With the welder working ..., surely you can modify the throttle linkage... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif!

[C9]

I forgot to add that you should be able to swivel the brake pedal pad to gain some clearance from the throttle pedal.

[flatshoebox]

Between my buddies and I, we tried 20 or so different way to hook up my linkage on my 49..cheap cable, lokar cable, shopping cart rods... you name it.. ended up using the stock linkage setup just lowering the pivot piont by the firewall 3" or so.. but thats on a flathead with 94's..