347(1956) Pontiac. Trans questions. Want to swap for???

[smalltownspeed]

Ive got a rat truck Im building, and it currently has a 56'(347) Pontiac motor and auto trans. All the seals in the trans are shot, at it wouldent hurt to go through it, but the kit from Kanter is something like $800..... Im looking at other options, but am not shure whats out there. Would like to have a stick or newer auto trans.... What can I do???

I know the 56' GMC motor is the same, so Ive thought about tryin to track down a 4 speed from one of them... But beyond that, I have no idea what will work with it....


Thanks,
Cory

[Chandler]

i asked the same question over a 1957 pontiac 347. look back through the posts and read " need advice from old pontiac guys" dallas, huh? im in rowlett

[safariknut]

If it is indeed a 347 it's a 57 motor.Fifty six motors were 316.5 cu.in.The trans are not the same as the 55-and early 56.Even the 56 trans is slightly different from the 55.Physically the same except the 56 output shaft diameter and spline is larger.Found this out when I tried to put a 56 trans in my 55 Safari.Luckily I had the 56 d'shaft.Had to splice the 56 yoke onto the 55 shaft(shaft dia.is the same but U-joints are larger on the 56).

[Justin B]

there's a few companies that make an adapter to put a ford stick behind it, i think offenhauser and wilcap still offer them. i'm running a 59 389 in my a and since it's a 29 and i have big feet there's not enough room for a 3rd pedal so i had to go with an automatic. bendentson's(sp) makes an adapter for the pre 60 pontiac engines to use a chevy automatic. this is what i ended up getting and it seems like it is going to work out really good. the adapter is expensive though, i think it's around $550, but that's with a flex plate and a high torque mini starter. i ended up talking with the owner and getting it for about $400 without the starter and flex plate as i already had several sitting around the garage. it seems like it is really well made and came with everything needed to install it, bolts, spacers, etc. with the $ for the adapter and a rebuilt turbo 350 or 400 you will still be way under the cost it would take to have your stock trans rebuilt.
on the other hand if your trans is a 55-56 slant pan hydro it is a very strong trans and was used alot in the early days of drag racing so it might be worth rebuilding if you have the coin.

[smalltownspeed]

Im sorry, I wasnt thinking when I typed this up, it is a 316... Still the same deal though...

Who can I find to rebuild my trans if I go that route? And what type of shifter should I run(currently has the rod through floor type...) on it?

Do you have the contact information for the company that makes that kit? Guess that means I wolnt be able to run that schaffer Alum. flywheel I just picked up... Damn...

Another reason Im considering running a later model auto, its the avaibilty of of higher stall converters, I cant do anything like that on my current trans, can I?

And thats a good point about not having room for a 3rd pedal, Im 6'4" and have size 13 feet, and with how the truck is channeled I dont think that would work so well...

[smalltownspeed]

[ QUOTE ]
i asked the same question over a 1957 pontiac 347. look back through the posts and read " need advice from old pontiac guys" dallas, huh? im in rowlett

[/ QUOTE ]

Yea, but I def. want to keep the old school pontiac motor... Ive alredy got a 6x2 crossram intake, du-coil distributor and some other parts for the 55-60 that are just cool as hell.... I have thought about trying to find 59' or a 60' 389 for the added cubes and so I can run off of all 6 carbs(still progressive)... If any of yall know of a good deal on a 59' or 60' 389 let me know... Rebuilt, running orignal, low mile what ever... Just everything Ive found has been way over priced and way too far away(to justify paying shipping)...

[JamesG]

The Puple People eater runs a 316 with and orginal B&M tranny.....
http://www.pontiacheaven.org/images/jpgs/street8.jpg
http://www.pontiacheaven.org/images/jpgs/street9.jpg

1930 model A Ford coupe (with rear section cut off) radically modified! The top is chopped a severe 6 inches and body is channeled over the frame another 6 inches. The rear portion of the frame is "Z'ed" ...or kicked up....to lower the rear end of the car even more. The rear wheels are polished 5 spoke Americans while a rare set of polished 12 spoke magnesium rims mount up front. The engine is a real piece of history that was originally built in 1959. It was originally injected and came out of a front engined dragster that held the record at riverside raceway for blown on gas.....149 mph. This was in 1959,1960,and 1961. The engine is a 1956 316 c.i. with 4" bore. It has first production Mickey Thompson Aluminum rods, 9.0:1 Venolia pistons, a highly modified c/t stroker crank, 0.505-inch solid lift Engle cam, dual roller timing chain with custom made aluminum cover. The heads are highly modified 1957 units that have been ported and polished with custom made screw-in studs, and after market rocker arms. Valve covers are finned aluminum by Weiand. Headers are home made zoomies. The blower intake is a Weiand and the 671 blower is a Don Hampton. The blower is 9% under driven. 8 Ford Stromberg carbs sit on top of a rare Cragar intake. The transmission is an original B & M hydro. A new rear was recently rebuilt and installed by Mark. It's a 1957 Pontiac with 4.11 posi . Marky plans on racing this car at nostalgia drag events.

[safariknut]

[/ QUOTE ]

Yea, but I def. want to keep the old school pontiac motor... Ive alredy got a 6x2 crossram intake, du-coil distributor

[/ QUOTE ]
Are YOU the guy who snagged that Du-Coil that was on e-bay awhile back?GRRRRRRR!!!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gifI have been looking for one of those forever!My 57 Safari had a Du-Coil in it when it was built back in 63 and the SW tach in the car has a 4-cylinder sender because of that.The ignition got trashed years ago(as did the rest of the motor!IDIOT!).I got a new Du-Coil cap and rotor when I bought the car which is currently being used to store pencils on my desk.If you ever decide to sell the ignition,let me know please.I also got an Edelbrock W25 2X4 manifold with the car along with a couple old AFBs.

[smalltownspeed]

[ QUOTE ]


[/ QUOTE ]

Yea, but I def. want to keep the old school pontiac motor... Ive alredy got a 6x2 crossram intake, du-coil distributor

[/ QUOTE ]
Are YOU the guy who snagged that Du-Coil that was on e-bay awhile back?GRRRRRRR!!!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gifI have been looking for one of those forever!My 57 Safari had a Du-Coil in it when it was built back in 63 and the SW tach in the car has a 4-cylinder sender because of that.The ignition got trashed years ago(as did the rest of the motor!IDIOT!).I got a new Du-Coil cap and rotor when I bought the car which is currently being used to store pencils on my desk.If you ever decide to sell the ignition,let me know please.I also got an Edelbrock W25 2X4 manifold with the car along with a couple old AFBs.

[/ QUOTE ]


Yep, I really wanted to snag the magneto that was on there right before it, but I was a fuckin idiot and missed the bidding on it, just wasnt thinkin... It sold for only $300 or somethin... I was even willin to go higher than that at that point in time... Anyways, if you can find me a good magneto the Ducoil can be yours...

[hagar]

I've got a '55 with a stick setup,free, if you can get someone near Tampa to pull it for you.

[axle]

i just love my brothers car.
smalltowns peed, if you have a 56 you could have either a hydramatic (like the 55 and earlier GM) or the late 56 on up jet-away.
not to brag but you guys would shit if you saw the garage full of rare pontiac speed equipment marky and i have accumulated over the years.
i'm going to post my latest MICKEY THOMPSON find with pictures real soon.

[Justin B]

here's the info Bendtsen's transmission center, phone # 763-767-4480 and they are in ham lake mn. by the way here's my 389 it should be back in the car by the end of the week.

[rustynewyorker]

I have a .030 '59 389 short block with a pair of planed, hard seats, new guides heads, enough to build a motor short needing to sort out the correct parts to match the non-stock cam up to the '59 heads. Has a late 301 aluminum front cover and HEI distributor on it right now. Close to $1200 in it not counting the car the motor came out of and that doesn't include any labor. Luckily this isnt the classifieds, so I don't need to put a price on it - odds are I'm too far away anyhow.

I did see a guy in Socal somewhere with a '59 short block for sale on eBay a while back - machine shop had redone it and customer didn't pay, so there it was for $500 - a steal.


Motor's not something I'm worried about getting rid of, sooner or later I'll wrap up the loose ends and put it in a car.

Odds are if you dig a core '59-'60 389 should run $400 or so, less if you happen on one in a pull-your-part or something like that. I've seen 61-64 runners for a couple hundred, too.



I believe you can swap anything 55-60 and use any of those hydramatics - I know I was considering a 60 389-trans combo in my '57 and one mount is slightly off, but it would work. They tell me that if you go manual you want a 58-60 bellhousing because the 55-57 unit is more limited with what trans bolts to it - the later unit you can use much later transmissions with.

[Rocky]

You got it right, Rusty New Yawka....just remember if you use a slant-pan hydro [55-56 tranny] against a 57-60 engine, you gotta be careful of interference between the engine half of the fluid coupling and the machined edge of the crank flange. If the two pieces touch, the coupling won't seat against the crank flange and not only will you experience a mega tranny fluid leak, the now-wobbling fluid coupling will take out your Hydro front pump...not good!
The remedy is to simply run your favorite 4" grinder around the edge of the crank flange a few times, knocking off the sharp 90 degree edge and allowing the fluid coupling to fit all the way back on the flat surface of the crank flange.
It's a small thing but if not addressed, you'll spend a lot of money on tranny front pump replacement...plus, you'll prolly get red ATF in your hair....if you HAVE hair.