Model A Roadster body, OG or Brookville?

[Kilroy]

Looking for a little advice here folks...

If you had to choose between buying an original Ford body that's had some questionable work done to it over the years but looks pretty solid over-all, and a brand new Brookville body for a couple grand more, what would you do?

Why?

I'm a little indicisive on this one so thanks for the advice.

[yeahyeahyeah]

is the brookville body metal? what's it cost?

[Action Girl]

Depends on how important 'original' really is to you.

Knowing how much work it takes to get a car ready for paint, etc. I'd say if you HAVE the money for a Brookville, you'll save yourself loads of time taking that route. You don't have to worry about fixing all the body problems you might find on the original, and if what were really talking about is metal vs metal here it's all a matter of choice. I saw the Brookville roadster up close and it's a really nice repro.

If you don't really care about the opinions of people who will call you a goldchainer for buying a repro body(something they'll probably only know if you TELL THEM), than I'd say go Brookville and get that sucker on the road a little faster.

Stacey

[yeahyeahyeah]

actually if you fixed up an original body you'd end up using some aftermarket repro panels... so who cares? the brookville would be like the same thing.. only lots more aftermarket repro stuff! and it beats the pants off of fiberglass.

is your time and effort worth the price difference to you?

[wingnutz]

I found several 30-31 roadster bodies and I have to agree its hard to find an original under $3,000 that doesn't need a ton of work...!

You could easily spend another 2 grand cherrying it out... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif!

The $5,500 Brookville bodies seemed steep at the time, however if you're not handy at doing your own body work this would be the best route... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif!

Mark

[The37Kid]

The big question is about your bodywork skills. Can you get the original to paint grade or will you pay someone to get it there? The Brookville bodies are VERY nice and I'd go that route if you have the funds.

[Curt R]

metal fatigue! metal fatigue! metal fatigue! how much has that old roadster body been shrunk, stretched, welded, picked, filed etc. If, resale value is your concern, the old body gives you bragging rights, what that means is the $ value depends on how bad the buyer wants the "original bodied blah blah" and how deep his pockets are. Are you good at massaging old metal or replacing sheet metal with new? or will it be a learning process? no better way to learn. Bottom line, if the $ invested in the old body result in quality work and a solid, sound body and are not a whole bunch more than the new, I would lean towards the original body. If, the body repair has to be sourced out, the problems and cost generally exceed the cost of the new body. This subject should fire up the worms. If, you are building an "early style hot rod" clone for low buck, it doesn't matter. The nature of your question leads me to believe you have a different style in mind. Get a concept, picture, drawing or whatever of the end result that you are aimimg for. Post it or describe it on HAMB and some of the HAMB replies may be helpful.Personally, dollar for dollar, I would go new. Nostalgia and tradition are great. 30's and 40's parts and bodies were only 10 to 20 years old, when I started. Now, they are 50, 60 to 70 years old. Stepping up to parts with current technology and mettulurgy has appeal, also. Hey Jim A, should I listen for the "INCOMING"?

[Muttley]

[ QUOTE ]
actually if you fixed up an original body you'd end up using some aftermarket repro panels... so who cares? the brookville would be like the same thing.. only lots more aftermarket repro stuff! and it beats the pants off of fiberglass.

is your time and effort worth the price difference to you?

[/ QUOTE ]

Hey look a new guy who isnt a total jackass! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

BTW I agree spend a little more and get the Brookville. If the other body has questionable work you will spend more fixing it in the long run anyway.

[marq]

My two pennies worth here
If you like the thought of the car having another life before you owned it and all the nostalgia that goes with it then get the original,if that don't matter buy new.Now i like original because i love the thought of the car/trucks previous existence.I love the dents and the suede paint and every new dent or chip will stay as to me it's part of the history of the car to me the Brookville would just be a repro and i may as well buy a new Honda.That all said it was just my opinion and it's your opinion that counts not mine,Brookville make nice bodies but they aint a model A Ford stopped making model A's in 1931 or so i'm told and thats they way it should be whatever Brookville make it aint a model A it aint a Ford either...........Marq

[Kilroy]

Thanks for your time.

I have the SKEEEELLLZZZ to fix the original...

I just don't know if it's worth my time. The original body is under 3k. It was rat-rodded and that's where the questionable work comes in. It's history to me has already been bastardized by someone else's interpretation of what a Hot Rod should be. It's confused right now and I would be charged with giving it a new life. So to a certain extent it is no longer a Ford body. It's had the floors replaced and some patching done.

I'm planning a fairly traditional rod. It will have a flathead, 3spd, and banjo. and it will be on duece rails. And to be totally honest... I want to CREATE history with this car, not regurgitate it. So all in all the historical aspect of it is not very important to me. It's more about saving a couple of bucks.

[slammed]

The old body has real 'soul' as some of the 'elite' claim. From a pure dollar stand point the new will be less $ in the long run: Time is money no matter how you slice it. A Roach with your added touche's wlll be cheaper. Want it NICE? Shiney? Really straight panel's w/out a ton of time? Now is Real Henry Ford tin what you want....or Reproduction?

[The37Kid]

I do know a guy that downgraded a Brookville body for use on a Rat Rod. A tube of construction adheasive was used to run fake chickenshit welds anong the lower cowl, door and rear quarters, then brush painted. This was then covered with two shades of gray primer. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[klazurfer]

Hey Kilroy .. The Gold Chainers have added new rules to their pissing-contest. Remember when "Steel was real" , "Glass was Class" or " Wrap your ass in fiberglass" .. ?
Now, it is Ford-body against Brookville ,Rod-bods or Reprosteel. To me , it has been all about the $$ & lack of skills .I have had more than one opportunety to buy a real deuce body , but they have all been exspensive & in need of work far beyond my skills .My car is Real Ford all the way BUT the body & "HOP UP"-Parts, and I have NO problem living with that. If your gut says "Ford-Body" , then go for that ( Time-consuming or not ). If you don`t care too much aslong as it is a Steel-body , Then the Brookville bodies are the way to go , Hands down !!
The main goal is to have fun , so choose what gives you the most FUN for the $$$$ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[choprods]

I used a rough REAL one-[lots less $] I would use a Glass one If it suited my budget-But in your case IF the funds were there, Id buy the Brookville body.
Its just as nice as real and would 9 times of ten be less money if repair hours parts and materials were considered

[fab32]

One thing to remember is when Brookville first finished their Model A roadster bodies, they put one on an A chassis and went to a Model A restorers meet. The car won "best of show" against some of the best restored Model A's in the country. they were PISSED when it was reveiled that it was a reproduction, but it sure proved what a great job Brookville did with their product. I guess there are still some of the old timers talking about that one.

Frank

[wideglide74]

I was reluctant to use repro body parts but out of desperation ordered a brookville subframe for my rpu... It's beautiful... Just think of how much faster you'll be on the road and let me at that gennie body...

[MIKE-3137]

Or you can be somewhere in the middle like me. An original 31 roadster body with one new brookville quarter, and to be honest even that much repo bugs me, i'd swap it in a minute for a good original quarter. I guess i'm alone here, but to me, steel AIN'T real unless Henry built it, might as well be glass, which is fine too, if thats what you want. A replica. I mean, is it a 31, or 32 if it wasnt made back then?

No question i'd be driving my roadster now if I'd used a brookville, but I think just the fact that the old ford survived this long is cool. For me it wasnt about bragging rights or resale, I just wanted it to be what it looks like.

To each his own....

[marq]

well said mate and hear hear,if it aint a ford it aint a ford even if it looks like one.It may be a hotrod i will admit i dont mind glass or steel copies but get pissed if i know it's a copy and someone says oh my 32 blah blah blah .They should be saying my 2002 blah blah blah.It it aint a real 31,32 whatever body then it aint real and thats why i went all out to get my truck right,ok it aint quite right yet as i needed to get it done but it will be period correct within a couple of years..........Marq

[yeahyeahyeah]

another thing about that original body, if you don't care too much about having the original thing and keeping the history as you said, you would be doing someone else a favor that is interested in that aspect. ask around and pass the original to someone else who's into that, and get the brookville for you.

[hatch]

Built at home with Brookville stuff was my choice....The history goes back to 1997 when I started it. My youngest son learned how to drive in it...illegal backroad underage cruising http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif.... Every day adds another page or chapter to it's pedigree.

I have the skills to rebuild rust and have done quite a bit since 1975...but this one was for me and I'm tired of rebuilding junk....I would do the same again...Brookville.

[C9]

Brookville makes a nice body.
Nice part about them is, when you get it you're over the bodywork hump for the most part and that gets the car on the road that much quicker.

Other nice part about the Brookville is you don't have to re-do someone else's shoddy work and questionable ideas.

Far as history goes, nothing wrong with making your own history right from the get-go.

Nothing wrong with fiberglass either. I made a conscious decision to run a Wescott body after I'd found a Deuce roadster for 7 grand. I was tired of dealing with rust after doing battle with the Rust-Devil on my 63 Chevy pickup.
My 32 with Wescott body and other aftermarket as well as many home-made components has made more than a bit of history itself.
41,000 miles and counting.... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[Deuce Roadster]

[ QUOTE ]

If you had to choose between buying an original Ford body that's had some questionable work done to it over the years but looks pretty solid over-all, and a brand new Brookville body for a couple grand more, what would you do?

[/ QUOTE ]

For me..............no question.........I would buy the original Ford body. You say it's in pretty solid over-all condition. If it was a pile of poo......different answer.

I have a original Deuce Roadster body. Not a patch in it anywhere but I have had it many, many years. And paid a ton for it back then. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

This whole deal is sort of like the blonde, brunette and redhead thing. Each has it's own good and not so good points. I prefer original cars ( and brunettes http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ). They have a soul about them. The history, the feel...... it's just a feeling.

<font color="red"> With that said........I may buy a 32 Brookville 3 window body.

Because I cannot afford a original 1932 Ford 3 window. </font> http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif


.

[continentaljohn]

I have a brookville roadster PU 30-31, with the new bed.. I tried to build it a number of times, it just didn't feel like the real thing to me.. I put her on a orignal 1932 chassie.. and still it didn't do antthing for ME.. Looked cool as hell, but I'm a bit weird and like the old tin, it's got history and patina.. I'm sticking with the oldstuff http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Any body want to buy or trade a RPU..

[yeahyeahyeah]

sorry for the stupid question but does brookville have a website?

[MIKE-3137]

Thats where i'm at Continentaljohn, I'm not trying to step on anyones toes, and I sure wouldn't insult anyones car. But lets be real here, (no pun intended) I got into the old car hobby because I like old cars. Hey a PT Cruiser looks alot like my 37 slantback, I could have just bought one of those if ease is the goal. They even make the 37 tudors in fiberglass now. Yea, its a ton of work getting a original back on the road, I thought that was part of it. And sometimes you have to redo something. The notion that original cars are rusty, and patched junk is driven by the reproduction companies. A patch panel doesnt make an original body lesser in some way. Brookville filled a need with the steel 32s as original steel 32 roadsters are out of reach nowadays, for me anyway, but steel Model A roadsters are at every swap meet. Find one and build a real one. Whats up with Brookville charging twice as much for a 32 over a model A too?. Another problem is down the road as these steel replicas become more exact, and are titled as 31s or 32s, they will be passed off as originals by unscrupulous owners. Ever try to buy an original 32 roadster title?
anyway, Is a cobra or lamborghini replica any different that a ford repo?
Okay....blast away http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[deuce]

i have an original body and a repro (glass) body. the original has been on the road for many years and the repro is getting to the finishing point. when i drive the original bodied car, i can't help but wonder what the original owner thought as he first drove away from the dealership and what the car went through over the years. both methods of building have their merits, but in the long run i would go with the brookville and be done with it.

[Curt R]

FIRST BLAST
so "My31and37" and "Continentaljohn" I ain't gonna step on your toes and I respect your opinion and choices about the cars you own and build. What concerns me, as I read more and more of HAMB, is a whole lot of the "speak" seems to be getting stronger and stronger with the elitist, "if ain't original", "genuine old", "don't stray from the old tried and true" crap that I heard from the looking down their nose Model T, A and V-8 purists and restorers during the 60's and 70's. Hot rodding grew because hot rodders ignored the narrow vision and close mindedness of "formula", "original this, origial that" crap and didn't care about any one passing off their hot rod as some original whatever.
Are some of the "traditionalists" becoming "hot rod restorers"? Are they assuming the "traditionalist",
"restorer", "original only" POSE to be apart from or just a little better than the common rodder?

[tunglegubbin]

There is no way you could take a Brookville A-body off the shelf and go and get "best in show"!

I have one and if I had the choice today between a Brookville and decent Ford, I'd go for one that Henry built.

In my opinion Brookville is the best thing since pre-sliced bread but it still takes alot of bodywork to fix it and it will still not be as crisp a Ford body.

[Kilroy]

This body will probably never be as crisp as an original Ford body either. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

The desire to have a "perfect" all Ford hot rod is understandable to me. The delimma for me right now it that I'm building a hot rod and don't really care all that much about "Perfection." Or rather, I have a different idea of "perfection" as it will exsist for this car. I will be modifying the body to a certain extent and would never even consider a nice original Model A body for that reason. I'll leave the surviver bodies to the restorers.

But all that being said I might go with the Ford body just because life's about it's little challenges and I just feel better about a thing after I've dicked with it and made it "better." http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Thanks for all the opinions, I expected 8 posts tops on this one.

Let's hear some more.

[Elrod]

I'm not saying that you should go with one or the other.

My input is more of how will you feel talking about each once you are done?

"The body is a Brookville. They really make great bodies that even fool the hard core original guys."

- or -

"Yup. That's an original Henry Ford. I put a ton of time into that body. Infact, this part was a part that I worked on for about a week... Check out these before and after pictures. etc...."

If you seriously don't care about the stories, labor, and nostalgia, get a Brookville. Seeing them on the pallet in person makes you say wow! They are very nice.

[Kilroy]

To me, it's either you like it or you don't. Life's to short for pissing contests about the origen of the body (as long as it's steel, fiberglass is for packers... Of Mufflers!). I'll spend more time ridiculing SBC people. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

I worked hard and saved a long time (4years) to finally have some money to buy the parts needed to build my car. I also provided for my family first and am just as proud of that as I would be about fixing a body. No matter what, I'll have my head so high no amount of snobbery would be able to pull it down. In fact, there may be a snob or two waking up to a beautifull view of the sky above them if they waste my time bickering about brookville/Ford parts. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Seriously though, this car will be about the fun of Hot Rodding. It won't be pure in any way but it will be driven!

[Rand Man]

Brookville is not the only company making repro A parts. When I finally get my Model "A" on the road, she will have some reproduction panels. It shouldn't be too hard to guess which parts are new. They'll be the pretty ones. I'm hoping to get the wife some repro parts too. If I can touch 'em, they're real!

[Oilcan Harry]

It doesn't matter much to me. Original steel, Brookville or glass. I don't care. Ya still gotta build the thing. My T-coupe is Ford steel but only because thats what I happened to find at a price I could afford. Brookville or glass are fine with me and both make great Hotrods. Original steel with history or patnia is just a bonus. Some guys fume about only building original Ford bodies, but love silicone tits? Go figure......

[hatch]

Henry Ford didn't make all the bodies....Briggs and also Murray did tin work for Henry......now Brookville is helping them!!!....so WHAT is a REAL Ford body???......and fwiw, I agree.....The car in your driveway doesn't mean your shit don't stink.

[lehr]

I dont know how many of you guys have worked on a brookville body but,that brown primer can be deceiving I'm working on a 32 brookville for a guy and i had to hammer the door out so far to meet the quarter panel that it came off the inner panel and the leading edge near the cowl was the same. Be prepaired to skimcoat the hole car.

[Slag Kustom]

being a body man and sheet metal fab guy of many years i would buy the brookville body before bothering with a stock one unless you plan on channeling it or doing alot of custom mods that will become overlapping with the repairs needed.

[klazurfer]

Lehr ... You gotta be kidding !! Who paid you to post this shit ????? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[lehr]

Hey I'm not saying that I would rather start with a rusted out piece of shit or even worse fiberglass I'm just saying be ready to put alot of work in it to make it staight,by the way surfer the dude that owns the car is paying me alot to make it nice.

[swissmike]

I started with a Brookville body and frame and I couldn't be happier. (except for the money spent)
The quality of the bodies is generally very good ( as confirmed by my friend's '32).
The problem with the doors is inherent to the desing by Ford. They just don't have much rigidity and can be twisted and tweaked by hand or over your knee. Dont forget to properly shim the body, else the doors won't never be close.
The door gap "problem" is also seen on very nice original Ford cars. They were not designed to line up as perfectly as on a new car. It will take a good amount of work to get the doors 100% aligned!

Here's a picture of my Brookville A

[Kilroy]

Swissmike...

That's a bitchin MODEL A. Don't call it a Brookville unless someone asks! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Can you give me a run-down on what you ordered specifically? Like Options etc...

[modernbeat]

Debating between a repro body and a stock Ford body? Answer all these questions and I'll be glad to tell you what’s right for you (grin).

We’ll start out with the universally recognized business equation of

TIME or MONEY or QUALITY

You’ll have to sacrifice one of them ‘cause you can only have two. For our purposes, we’ll rate bodies in the following manner:

NOS Ford: Lot’s of time to find, lots of money to buy, as close as possible to a quality Ford product (lots of quality)
Brookville: Minimal time, lots of money, very good quality
Restored Ford body: Little time, lots of money, fair quality but may have some secrets
Ford body with Brookville panels: Some time, less money, fair quality but still may be hiding something.
Old Ford body: Lots of time, some money, low quality
Ruined Ford body: Lots and lots of time, little money, low quality

Do you want to put a perfect body and a shiny paint job?
Do you want a field car look?
Do you just want a cheapo paint job – like real cheap paint, or flat paint?
Are you doing radical body modifications, like sectioning or custom molding – channeling is not included.
Are you doing heavy modifications like channeling or stretching the doors, or smoothing out the cowl?
Are you doing minor hot rod modifications like lowering the seat, shaving the fuel filler or door handles, cutting the tank out and using a ’32 dash?
Are you experienced in metal bodywork and repair?
Do you have experience with OLD or RUSTY metal?
Do you have the facilities to work with metal?
Do you want a standard body style?
Do you want a unusual/unpopular body style?
Are you a vintage Ford elitist?
Will you be embarrassed if you are outed as owning a reproduction body?
Will your peer group care?
Do you have nothing better to do that talk to folks about your car? (It’s all original including the dust under the floor mats, and those are Alex’s fingerprints on the dash…)
Will your car speak for itself?
Do you require that the body have no surprises?
Do you require a complete body?
Do you have a lot of cash?
Do you have a lot of time?
Are you working on a short timeline?

Frankly though, there is a place for any and all bodies - even <gasp> NON-FORD bodies, like Pontiacs and stuff. Even bodies made from sheetmetal like that Aluminum approximation of a '28 roadster with Alvis running gear running around in the UK.

[swissmike]

Kilroy,
I ordered the body (which was $4600 at that time) with the following options:
smooth cowl cover $250
steel front floor $175
rear roll pan $120
lower stanchions installed $150
32 style dash installed $115

I also ordered their perimiter 32 style frame set up for the P&amp;J ladder bars and buggy spring rear suspension. That's a whole other list.
Spend a good amount of time going over the catalog and ask the guys at Brookville. They are very helpful.

This was my first car project and I didn't want to go in over my head. Now I would be confident to take on a project where I had to start with a pile of parts..

[Tudor]

hey kilroy - just remember if you are going on Duece rails you are going to have to whack the shit out of the rear floor. I would hate to do that to a new brookville body.

I think the original would be a better candidate for that.

Interesting topic. Last night I was grinding bondo off my cowl and wondering - "what should I do - keep grinding, let it alone, am I going to be able to fix what I find? Oh shit - it'll be OK, oh shit - no problem. It'll just take time. Hell I'll just drive it and fix it later. No, I want it perfect. Hell I am going to bed."

I just have to remember, I bought this car because I wanted to learn. I don't think there is much easier body work to learn on than a model A. I learned from the 5000K dollar build post that I was on the wrong track - the lesson was build what you can and like and enjoy.

[kritz]

whatever route you choose to go with just have fun doing it, that's what this car thing is all about anyways. if you feel you'll have a more rewarding time resurrecting an old body, then by all means do it. if you'll have more fun not having to stress about metalwork, and instead spend your time making it go,mechanical aspects, and working on the interior then do that. the brookville bodies are damn nice. i can't say that i wouldn't go with one given i had the dough to spend.
it all comes down to personal preference....it really doesn't matter what anyone says, aslong as you are happy when the day is through.
i guess choosing your battles is a good term to use...
bodywork vs. modification. where do you want to spend the majority of the work??
good luck with the project whichever body you choose to go with.

[swissmike]

Tudor- the only thing I had to cut out was a approximately 6"x12" rectangle where the rear crossmemeber sticks through the trunk floor. This is easily covered by a sheetmetal "hump" (some people use the spare tire section of a fender).

Kilroy- let me know if you want to go the Brookville route and need more info. I'd be glad to help.

[AV8Paul]

When I was collecting parts for my AV8 project in the early 1990's, I couldn't find a body that I could afford to fix up. I wanted a nice finished look, not a primered jalopy. I found a Brookville dealer that would sell me a body for $100 over his cost. I scraped up the money and haven't regretted it once. The car went together easily. If anyone asks about the body, I tell the truth. I'm not embarrased.

[Kilroy]

Thanks Swissmike...

If I think of anything else you'll be the first to know.

My thinking about cutting up a body is that a repro body would be kinder to cut because anybody could go buy one but I don't know...

[Broman]

Seems kinda funny that anyone would ever be embarassed of a car they built....glass, repro-steel, or origional. If you do the work and you like the car - fuck 'em all.

[Tudor]

Kilroy - I see what you are saying, but I feel the opposite. If I had a new sweet ecpensive correct non rusty body, I would not want to cut it at all! The original one that had already been molested would be the better candidate for fitting to a 32 frame.

I am confused by swissmike's statement that he didn't have to cut much to fit his a body to 32 rails. Unless the 32 perimeter rails by brooksville are flat to fit the model a bodies.
Is that the case?

Or are roadster bodies easier to fit to the hump on the 32 frames?

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[flatheadnut0]

Hey Kilroy, What do you want? Do you have the time to do the old body? You will have to do a little cutting on the floor but use 32 subrails out back, that helps. It's easier too if you do a trunk and not a rumble. Do what you really, really want and have FUN!!!!!!!

[Bill.S]

I would think the steel that they are using today would be a better quality.
Do they use the same gauge sheetmetal that the originals used?

[Kilroy]

Weeeeeelllll!

I baught the original 31 Roadster body. He threw in a nice original quarter, too.

The downside is that I'm gonna have to "touch" every pannel. The upside is that I get to "touch" every pannel. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

It's also a little too wobbley to do C9's frame building technique too. But I have money left over so I might just have one made for me.

I'm stoked! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[tokyo]

If i could afford it, I would go with brookville, but I can't so I won't right now..

maybe later...

tok

[38pickup]

Deleted by 38pickup

[38pickup]

I would say go with the Brookville . . .
Thats just my 2 cents