Need Info on Flattop 32 rails for Model A???

[hdv32]

I know that Brookville and SoCal make a flattop and pinched set of 32 rails for Model A (31 in my case) Does anyone know of other chassis builders who are offering these. I think Hammering Hank had one under his 31, but I can't remember who he said built. Any help would be appreciated.

[lownrusty]

Dagels in Orange Ca. makes them?

[roadstar]

Zack and Pat at ThunderRoad in Mansfield Ohio Built Hammer HAnks Chassis. I have the number at the shop I can post it here in the morning.

They will build you anything you want.

[tunglegubbin]

Not really my business but...It took me a long time to figure out why the brookville framed cars looked weird, until I heard that they don't have the frame rails running uphill from the firewall to radiator, that was it.

Compare pictures of '32 framed cars and Brookville framed ones so you're sure it's really what you want.

[Tudor]

H and H Speed and Machine did mine. They are near Ill.
http://www.hhspeedandmachine.com/

They are not flat top though? Just pinched.

[Rusty]

[ QUOTE ]
H and H Speed and Machine did mine. They are near Ill.
http://www.hhspeedandmachine.com/

They are not flat top though? Just pinched.


[/ QUOTE ] Man they got some pretty good prices

[Tudor]

I am real happy with mine. I got the rear housing loose, rear 4 bars and brackets loose, front hairpins loose, front pan hard losse, steering box bracket loose, traverse springs cross member installed, cross members installed, motor mounts installed, front and rear spreaders, all boxed, tig welded, pinched, and stainless batwings, for 2900 bucks. He even delivered it to my house free on his way through Atlanta.

The guy "Rich" that owns the shop is a cool guy. I have called him several times with questions and he is always glad to help.

[Just Gary]

TCI advertises pinched rails for Model A bodies.
http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/

[C9]

I'll go along with Tunglegubbin on the flat-top 32 frames under Model A's.

Something gets lost style-wise when the swoopy and good looking it's own self Deuce frame gets flattened.
Ends up looking like any other frame and in fact not as good looking as running a Model A frame under a Model A.

To go along with that, the 2 degree kickup under the cowl on a stock Deuce frame adds genuine lowness to the car as well as adds a perceived lower look. Not a bad combination when you can have a low appearing car that goes over speed bumps and driveways without dragging.

There should be some extensive discussions on Deuce framed A roadsters in Tech O'Matic. Do some digging there cuz it may not be listed under what you want.

It's no big deal to put a virtually stock Deuce frame under the A's. No pinching required.
In fact, pinching can create some space issues and to an extent can limit your engine choices to the small blocks.

Here's the basic run-through using ASC frame rails and stock width front and rear spreaders for the initial setup.
Use of a Wescott Deuce frame blueprint will help.

For the initial setup - assuming we're dealing with a roadster:

Remove the doors and make some "door spreaders" out of 1" aluminum angle. One long piece and two short pieces plus 4 nuts and bolts will do one side. Bolt the spreaders to a hing hole and a latch hole.

Turn the body upside down and set it on several layers of cardboard. Be careful and don't put too much weight on the cockpit rear sheet metal. Some padded shims can be used.

Set the ASC framerails on the body one at a time.
Bolt the front and rear spreader bars on.

Place the frame on the body where it goes paying special attention to matching the body's cowl width to the frame. You'll find the rear axle center point is just about the same as the Deuce. Use the body's embossed rear wheel well center line for a reference.

Clamp or tack weld some angle or rect tubing across the frame rails on the bottom so as to maintain squareness and frame rail location.
Cut the rear frame horns off with a hacksaw.
The cut will be made so the frame rails can drop into place in the body.

If you have the Brookville body option that's for the 32 rails you'll need to make a hacksaw cut in the upper and lower legs of the frame proper - do not cut the frame sides - near the front of the wheel well.

Tweak the rear frame rails out 3/4" per side and the frame will drop almost all the way into the channel where it's supposed to go.
Tack-weld the cuts.

The frame will be sitting up about 3/4" above where it's supposed to seat on the body. (Keep in mind everything is still upside down.)
To make that last little bit of drop, cut the kick-in at the front lower corner of the wheelwell (the for-real front lower corner, as if the body was right side up). It's three thicknesses of sheet metal. A cut 3/4 - 1" deep and long enough to remove the kick-in so the frame rails can drop into place. Alternatively the kick-in can be cut, heated and bent into place, but it's easier to cut it out and make a rolled bottom edge to finish it off.

Remove the frame, set it up on a frame table or shimmed floor stands and weld the cuts solid. It's a good idea to make some backing plates from .120 flat strap and weld those over the cut area. When the boxing plates are added this area will be more than strong.

What you'll have when done is a frame that had minimal work done to it, the body sits over the frame about 3/4 - 1" inside the body - very similar to the Deuce body's overhanging of the frame rails.
The body sits down very close to the top of the frame rails and in fact has a bit of a mini-channel, about 3/8 - 3/4" deep depending on where measured.
Wheelbase will end up approx 105".
Hood length measured from cowl to sitting in the standard location Deuce grille shell will be approx 32 3/8" measured down the centerline.

Once you get the front crossmember in and the trans etc. crossmembers in you can take 1 x 2" x .120 wall rectangular tubing, cut them about 2-4" long - depending on what's required - cut away one of the 2" sides, round the corners on one end and weld these in appropriate locations for body mounts.
I used UHMW plastic for body mounts, but neoprene would work about as well.
I have ten body mounts on my roadster along with a very stiff and well reinforced frame.

You will have a frame/body interface area where the body sits about 1/4" above the frame rails, but you can't see it unless you get down on your knees.
Once the webbing and other accessories are added this area will be well disguised.

Doing the frame this way is easy and not too much work.
You just need to think it through as you go.

Best part?
It's very traditional looking. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[hdv32]

Roadstar can you post the number when you get a chance. Also thanks to all for the info on the flat top. I will look at some pics of A's on Brookville chassis. C9, once again great technical info and great to have you back online and contributing.

[roadstar]

Thunder Road Rod and Custom

419 1/2 sixth ave

Mansfield Ohio 44905

Zack or Pat 419 522 4712.

[Mart]

Gotta agree with the above, a 31 will look better on a stock 32 frame than a straight one. That kink in the rails gives almost 2" of lowering to the body. If the front body mounts are trimmed away the 31 cown will JUST clear an unpinched 32 frame. I did it on mine (Old Rusty).
Mart.

[Dirty2]

C9, Thanks for that info. It my sway me to use my 32 frame as to the model a. Thanks again

[choprods]

Mine is swept up from cowl 3" [over a stock 32] frame-I cant imagine it being stone level on top..........

[a boner]

Not flat, but pinched AM. STAMPING ....BILL'S ROD & CUSTOM in Springfield OH.
phone# 937-322-5134

[Nimrod]

One more vote for not using the flat frame.