The HAMB is an Invaluable resource. 351 windsor final chapte

[roadstar]

I posted a situation I had with a engine and in less than 2 hours I had more than one response correctly identifiying my problem. With pictures detailing the possible cause of my no oiling problem no less!

Well With the advise of some very knowlageable people I was able to solve the problem in the engine I've been working on.

I was having a situation where no oil was getting to the top end of a 351 windsor engine I have in a customers brand new 36 Ford sedan I have been building. The engine was supplied be a local engine builder and when we went to fire it for the first time there was no oil pressure( well 20 lbs at 2000 RPM) and the lifters were dry as a bone, and making lots of noise.

It was sugjested that a oil galley plug was not in place under the intake and letting the oil just pour into the lifter valley.

Beatnik (MY buuddy Gus) even went so far as to post a pic of an engine with an arrow pointing to the plug under the intake manifold.

Well tonight I pulled the intake and sure enough the plug was MISSING http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Going back to the Machine shop post http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif. But the builder admits to some ofthe blame, Although stated the Machine shop removes these plugs to clean the block throurly and is responsible for reinstalling new ones.

I have some pic showing the problem and what happens to the oil when the plug is not in place.

All I can say is the HAMB has become such an invaluable resource for all of us no matter what kind of problem we are dealing with.

Thanks Ryan for this place, and thanks for everyone that takes the time to read and try and help someone out here. less than a few years ago this would not of been possible and I just can't get over how much help this place can be when you really need it.

Ok, Back to work on the hotrods everybody http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

First pic is what I found when I removed the intake.

No plug!!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

[roadstar]

Where the oil goes instead of going to the cam and lifters

[roadstar]

The plug installed....all systems go http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Thanks again to those that helped me figure this out.

[hotrodladycrusr]

BEATNIK ROCKS!

[beatnik]

I'm happy you got it figured out with out having to pull the engine out. When Jim mentioned the galley plug, I remembered that Ford Motorsport had a few crate engines they sent out missing that plug, and people had the same problem because they didn't notice it, before they put the intake on.

[Fat Hack]

We'll make a Ford Believer outta you yet, Mister!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

(And, yes...it is way common for machine shops to leave them plugs out. When I'm putting together an engine, I always replace every plug as a matter of habit...especially the coolant plugs! Nothing worse than having one of the freeze plugs behind the flexplate or one of the oil plugs like yours pop or go missing when ya wanna fire up the new mill!)

The HAMB has given us a valuable resource with nearly instant access to several individuals who can help out with a problem when we get stuck on something. It's FAR nicer than days of old when you had to rely on a small circle of locals you may only see once a week or so...or write letters to the tech columns in magazines and hope your queery gets answered six months later to solve an aggravating problem! Ryan has spoiled us, for sure!

(Someone on here suggested, probably jokingly, that I use a ten speed brake cable to hook up my throttle. Well, guess what I did!!??!! Ha Ha Ha! The HAMB ROCKS!!)

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[roadstar]

Opps...Almost forgot to thank Jim Forbes, for his speedy and accurate reply. In less than 2 hours http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Who needs a manual when you have the HAMB http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[3blapcam]

My 2 cents: Don't use cork gaskets under the intake - It's not worth the possibility that they'll slide out of position when installing the manifold. I used them a lot when first building engines, but have found the bead of silicon is a sure fire way of sealing the intake to block. Silicon's not going to dry out like the cork will and cause future leaks.

Looks nice and good luck with it.

Alec.

[zman]

Jim was always a valueble resource on the old truck list. It look like he'll be the same here.

As for the cork gaskets. I still use them. I don't do a bead of silicon as it can be pushed into the valley and clog an oil galley. If installed correctly the cork works fine...

[3blapcam]

[ QUOTE ]
I don't do a bead of silicon as it can be pushed into the valley and clog an oil galley

[/ QUOTE ]???? Wow, how long do you wait to install the manifold? One must be able to control the goo coming from his tube, and if done properly... then there's no mess! "clog an oil galley" - That's the lamest excuse I think I've ever heard! I guess if you do sloppy work, that could happen.

It's just a guaranteed seal. Cork is old school technology, and it used to be fine. I would never use cork gaskets for valve covers or oil pans either. They're a waste of time, they soak in the oil and never seal worth a shit. If you like leaky motors, cork it up! Otherwise, be friends with silicon and rubber, learn it's advantages!

[Fraz]

3blap, I'd highly suggest you go sit down and hush.

As far as silicone goes, I'll let my mechanic friend tell you about the engines he's had to replace due to that crap being overused.

BTW, when the only thing for your motor is a cork gasket, you by God use it!

I personally use the a very thin application of silicone to hold the cork in place. That's it.

[3blapcam]

[ QUOTE ]
3blap, I'd highly suggest you go sit down and hush.

As far as silicone goes, I'll let my mechanic friend tell you about the engines he's had to replace due to that crap being overused.

BTW, when the only thing for your motor is a cork gasket, you by God use it! <font color="blue"> </font>

I personally use the a very thin application of silicone to hold the cork in place. That's it.

[/ QUOTE ]

LMAO!!!

I never said to use it when installing bearings, headgaskets, rocker arms, valve seals... but if that's how you want to take it, that's cool too!

I guess being around race motors and people who spend a lot on motors, I just get used to doing things right the first time. Sorry.. I was just adding my 2 cents... I'll hush if you want to keep thinking your old school ways are superior. It's your motor, put sand in it if you want.

[zman]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I don't do a bead of silicon as it can be pushed into the valley and clog an oil galley

[/ QUOTE ]???? Wow, how long do you wait to install the manifold? One must be able to control the goo coming from his tube, and if done properly... then there's no mess! "clog an oil galley" - That's the lamest excuse I think I've ever heard! I guess if you do sloppy work, that could happen.

It's just a guaranteed seal. Cork is old school technology, and it used to be fine. I would never use cork gaskets for valve covers or oil pans either. They're a waste of time, they soak in the oil and never seal worth a shit. If you like leaky motors, cork it up! Otherwise, be friends with silicon and rubber, learn it's advantages!

[/ QUOTE ]

It's not a guaranteed seal, sorry to say. And I guess you do everything from start to finish the first time. But then my opinion is if you can't get the correct gasket to seal the first time you're a f#cking moron. The 235 in my truck has cork on the valve covers and oil pan, not a leak in sight... and by the way the cheap potshots aren't gonna fly. I'm not sloppy but I've fixed a lot of sloppy wanna be's work.



[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
3blap, I'd highly suggest you go sit down and hush.

As far as silicone goes, I'll let my mechanic friend tell you about the engines he's had to replace due to that crap being overused.

BTW, when the only thing for your motor is a cork gasket, you by God use it! <font color="blue"> </font>

I personally use the a very thin application of silicone to hold the cork in place. That's it.

[/ QUOTE ]

LMAO!!!

I never said to use it when installing bearings, headgaskets, rocker arms, valve seals... but if that's how you want to take it, that's cool too!

I guess being around race motors and people who spend a lot on motors, I just get used to doing things right the first time. Sorry.. I was just adding my 2 cents... I'll hush if you want to keep thinking your old school ways are superior. It's your motor, put sand in it if you want.


[/ QUOTE ]

If you were doing it right the first time you would be using a gasket.. I've built quite a few motors in my time and there is a place for silicone in moderation. But not as a replacement for a gasket...

your attitude makes you look stupid...

[Flat Ernie]

Leave silicone in chick's tits where it belongs.

Using RTV silicone to in place of gaskets is lazy AND sloppy. I have built many different brands of engines, but mostly Fords - I have NEVER had to use silicone to get my intake end gaskets to seal.

Glue the cork down to the block with permatex #2, coat the intake side of the cork with grease or vaseline, put a dab of permatex #2 in the corners if you like and only use the thinnest of skims coats of RTV around the water ports/passages &amp; then only if your surfaces aren't good. Otherwise, any quality grease works better than anything else. Oh yeah, you can use the vaseline to rub one out - sure can't do that with RTV! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

RTV silicone, despite what many say on the packages, is not designed for constant exposure to any petroleum products. Ever see it jelly up from gasoline contact? Same thing happens with oil contact - it just takes longer. That's why it stays "pliable" - it's breaking down slowly.

Oh yeah, I've seen one or two engines ruined due to excessive RTV blobs finding their way into the oiling system or clogging the pickup tubes. Also seen radiators damn near choked off completely.

Just cuz the factories use it these days, don't make it right. Bean counters drive the boat &amp; they don't build cars to last anymore anyway. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif


Kids these days. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif


http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[roadstar]

Well jsut came in from the garage. ( what a concept http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

All is fine. 65 lbs of oil presure. No engine noises. I'd have to say I got off pretty cheap. 20 bucks for intake gaskets and we're ready to wrap this baby up.

Oh and as far as the cork gasket deal. I don't mind using them. They still sell them for this application so they must be ok. And the one thing I though was cool is they have a self adhesive tape on the block side to keep them in place. I do use a dab of silicone in the corners where the gaskets all meet and usually don't have any problems.


I'm looking forward to my next delima http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

[RileyRacing]

When's the last time you saw a bottle of Dom sealed up with RTV? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Way to go guys. This is what the HAMB is for.

Jay

[roadstar]

[ QUOTE ]
When's the last time you saw a bottle of Dom sealed up with RTV? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Way to go guys. This is what the HAMB is for.
Jay

[/ QUOTE ]


http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gifgod JAy that is too funny

[a/fxcomet]

My machinist swears by this stuff (when used in the proper places): http://www.permatex.com/auto/autouh.asp?automotive=yes&amp;f_call=get_item&amp;item_no= 25223 .
http://www.permatex.com/images/catalog/gaskets/25224.jpg

I used it on the ends of my intake. The cork gasket was way too thick (heads milled .050"). Havent had a leak yet.

[3blapcam]

[ QUOTE ]
Leave silicone in chick's tits where it belongs.

Using RTV silicone to in place of gaskets is lazy AND sloppy. I have built many different brands of engines, but mostly Fords - . <font color="blue"> </font> .

Glue the cork down to the block with permatex #2, coat the intake side of the cork with grease or vaseline, put a dab of permatex #2 in the corners if you like and only use the thinnest of skims coats of RTV around the water ports/passages &amp; then only if your surfaces aren't good. Otherwise, any quality grease works better than anything else. Oh yeah, you can use the vaseline to rub one out - sure can't do that with RTV! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

RTV silicone, despite what many say on the packages, is not designed for constant exposure to any petroleum products. Ever see it jelly up from gasoline contact? Same thing happens with oil contact - it just takes longer. That's why it stays "pliable" - it's breaking down slowly.

Oh yeah, I've seen one or two engines ruined due to excessive RTV blobs finding their way into the oiling system or clogging the pickup tubes. Also seen radiators damn near choked off completely. - <font color="blue"> </font>
Just cuz the factories use it these days, don't make it right. Bean counters drive the boat &amp; they don't build cars to last anymore anyway. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif - <font color="blue"> </font>

Kids these days. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif




http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

The machine shop I worked in never used cork unless it was a stock motor. They've built several 8 sec mustangs, and I have never seen a lick of cork on those motors. They also built several Arias blown alcohol drag boat motors, so I think they're qualified as a "Good" machine shop. <<< point here is they aren't building mickey mouse bullshit. If you use the black silicon like A/FX posted, it may deteriorate, but not like the clear does. GM and Toyota, I know for a fact, uses black Silicon on their motors, aren't they the two leading car manufacturers? They probably don't know what you know though.

I use Silicon under my manifold. I run a blown EFI 351 in a late model mustang and I don't get any oil mess coming out from motor. When I used cork, I didn't have a problem either. However, in my years of installing intakes in the car and dealing with underhood clearance problems, I have had one or two squeeze out the back. If you use a bead of silicon, this doesn't happen. It's strictly a maintenance issue. The bean counters have moved from using cork on factory motors to rubber for valve covers and oil pans, what does that mean? Cork is cheaper, right?

AND, one last point of interest - have you looked at an older motor with 150K miles and compared it to a late model motor w/ 150K miles on it? Doesn't the late model have less oil running down the side of the block?

Just my 2 cents.

- Stupid

[zman]

[ QUOTE ]

The machine shop I worked in never used cork unless it was a stock motor. They've built several 8 sec mustangs, and I have never seen a lick of cork on those motors. They also built several Arias blown alcohol drag boat motors, so I think they're qualified as a "Good" machine shop. <<< point here is they aren't building mickey mouse bullshit.

[/ QUOTE ]

But you are also talking about an engine that is getting torn down very often. More often than no if there is a rubber gasket available I'll use it. But I also make an awful lot of my own gaskets as well. I'm sorry a bead of silly-cone is not a replacement for a gasket...

[3blapcam]

[ QUOTE ]
I'm sorry a bead of silly-cone is not a replacement for a gasket...

[/ QUOTE ]

Why not? What is the definition of a gasket?

- stupid

[fab32]

Just like everything else Silicone has its CORRECT uses. if your not willing to research what the proper application is you'll have problems. It's not a cure all for AIDS or TERRORISM but if properly applied it can save you time and give a superior seal. BTW, I've used it for the end of intake manifolds for years and wouldn't use anything else. I've had too many squeeze out and cause leaks when the heads have been milled.

Frank

[Hot Rod To Hell]

[ QUOTE ]
I'm sorry a bead of silly-cone is not a replacement for a gasket...


[/ QUOTE ]

What about the stuff that is labeled as "SILICONE GASKET MAKER"??? I use that "Right stuff" for intake end seals all the time with great sucess...

for what it's worth that is what you HAVE to use on my girlfriend's 96 Saturn. The factory used it for the timing cover/ valve cover, so there IS no gasket available... the service manuals AND dealership will tell you to use that stuff. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

[zman]

[ QUOTE ]

Why not? What is the definition of a gasket?


[/ QUOTE ]

A cord or canvas strap used to secure a furled sail to a yard boom or gaff.

[zman]

[ QUOTE ]
I've had too many squeeze out and cause leaks when the heads have been milled.


[/ QUOTE ]

I can see that, I tend to use some paper gasket material the correct thickness and then a very light coating on both sides.

[3blapcam]

[ QUOTE ]
A cord or canvas strap used to secure a furled sail to a yard boom or gaff.

[/ QUOTE ]

I like that response - it's as correct as silicon vs. cork!

[Hot Rod To Hell]

Also Mr. Blap Cam, it's siliconE not silicon. Silicon is what they make circuit boards out of, and I have to agree, that would not work to replace a gasket.

[squirrel]

you're welcome!

On the cork/silicone thing, I quit using the gaskets at the ends of intakes years ago, mainly because the blower intake on my big block (and some other aftermarket intakes as well) is machined so that they won't work--it just pops out the gaskets and leaks oil.

Silicone has 2 uses on an engine, one is at the ends of the intake, the other is to join up the corners of the oil pan gasket. I don't use it anywhere else.

As for using gaskets just because they're in the kit....consider the case of exhaust manifold gaskets for engines such as the Chevy V8s that never had these gaskets installed from the factory. All the gaskets do is insulate the manifold from the head, so the manifold can overheat and warp.

maybe I spent too much time in engineering school! but at least I was working at a junkyard at the time so I got to see the results of bad design.

[3blapcam]

[ QUOTE ]
Also Mr. Blap Cam, it's siliconE not silicon. Silicon is what they make circuit boards out of, and I have to agree, that would not work to replace a gasket.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes, you're right... my mistake. That does make more sense. Si wouldn't act as a good sealer by itself.

[enjenjo]

There are many cams wiped out because people insist in using rubber or cork gaskets on the ends of an aluminum intake. From experience, if you do use the runbber gaskets, it will distort the manifold when you tighten it down, enough that the water crossover on the front will seep antifreeze into the valley, wiping out the cam in the process, because it's not a good lubricant for breakin. Don't believe me? Fine with me, but don't blame me when you wipe out a cam. I learned the hard way too. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[3blapcam]

[ QUOTE ]
Don't believe me? Fine with me, but don't blame me when you wipe out a cam. I learned the hard way too. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Run a roller, not a problem.

[squirrel]

fun gasket story--a month ago we took the kid's new 6 cyl 70 Camaro cruising, and it overheated. Got hold of a 9/16" wrench, pulled the thermostat out, and made a new gasket from part of a kleenex box. Worked fine.

Gaskets are whatever you want them to be.

[Flat Ernie]

[ QUOTE ]
GM and Toyota, I know for a fact, uses black Silicon on their motors, aren't they the two leading car manufacturers? They probably don't know what you know though.


[/ QUOTE ]

Actually, I'm sure they know exactly what I know - silicone is not a good gasket replacement, however, it will last long enough for the car to go out of warranty &amp; not be their problem.

FWIW, I wouldn't buy a new GM or Toyota product, but that's not germane to the topic at hand.

Lots of race teams use it because it's EASIER and works just as well for short periods of time. That does NOT mean it's better no matter how fast they run or how big their engine is. If you're building an engine to last, use gaskets.

[ QUOTE ]
I use Silicon under my manifold. When I used cork, I didn't have a problem either. However, in my years of installing intakes in the car and dealing with underhood clearance problems, I have had one or two squeeze out the back. If you use a bead of silicon, this doesn't happen.

[/ QUOTE ]

I've had 'em squeeze out too before I figured out to glue them down. I do the same on valve covers &amp; never have leaks. I've got a set of cork gaskets on some aluminum SBF valve covers that have been there at least 12 years with no leaks. I remove &amp; replace the valve covers from time to time and always coat them with grease. Never a leak.

Also, if you have those same clearance issues that force you to slide the intake back &amp; forth, you run a very real chance of rolling that black gooey turd into your lifter valley and just like with the cork, you won't realize it until you crank the engine &amp; it leaks or, worse, doesn't leak so you don't fix it &amp; it works its way into your oiling system.

[ QUOTE ]
If you use a bead of silicon, this doesn't happen. It's strictly a maintenance issue.

[/ QUOTE ]

You can look at it that way if you don't plan to keep your engine. Otherwise, it's lazy IMNSHO. I build my engines as if they'll never come apart again. I learned this building diesel engines years ago.

[ QUOTE ]
The bean counters have moved from using cork on factory motors to rubber for valve covers and oil pans, what does that mean? Cork is cheaper, right?

[/ QUOTE ]

Actually, synthetic rubber is probably cheaper than natural cork - particularly given the EPA/Greenpeace/eco-nazis. But it's probably more to protect against warranty claims. There is ALWAYS a dollar amount figured into ALL business decisions.

[ QUOTE ]
AND, one last point of interest - have you looked at an older motor with 150K miles and compared it to a late model motor w/ 150K miles on it? Doesn't the late model have less oil running down the side of the block?

[/ QUOTE ]

Motors don't normally leak oil, but engines do. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[ QUOTE ]
What about the stuff that is labeled as "SILICONE GASKET MAKER"??? I use that "Right stuff" for intake end seals all the time with great sucess...


[/ QUOTE ]

It will work, for a while. It will eventually leak - I don't care what anybody says, who uses it, what it says on the tube, or how big an engine you build with it. The length of time will be determined by the type of RTV silicone used, additives in it, exposure (quantity &amp; duration) to petroleum products, and surface prep - but it will leak eventually.

[ QUOTE ]
for what it's worth that is what you HAVE to use on my girlfriend's 96 Saturn. The factory used it for the timing cover/ valve cover, so there IS no gasket available... the service manuals AND dealership will tell you to use that stuff.

[/ QUOTE ]

That don't make it right. It's because it's cheaper for them to have a computer squeeze out a perfectly measured bead of silicone than to manufacture a gasket for it. It's all about money, man - the almighty dollar. I have made my own gaskets in those situations. Beside that, your hand-eye coordination isn't quite as good as that computer &amp; you're several times more likely to put on too much "just to be safe" - a prime candidate for goop-osis and little solid turds of goop shit in your oiling system. I make my own gaskets.

It's kinda like windows. Everyone knows windows is for people who don't know how to use computers, but everyone uses windows. The people that DO know how to use computers will look upon windows users as somehow inferior because they choose to use a wimp (windows, icons, mouse, pointer) interface instead of machine code. Is it easier to use windows? Absolutely. Is it better? Very debatable. It is a form of snobbery, so I suppose that makes me a gasket snob. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I do view it as lazy to use a big wad of poop when there is a perfectly good gasket. You shouldn't say it's better just because you don't know how to use the gasket properly (not "you" specifically, "you" generally). It's the duct tape equivalent for gaksets!

Besides, I like silicone in chick's tits better than gooping up my engines! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[3blapcam]

Wow, how profound. I can tell I am dealing with someone who's never wrong and always has a better solution.

"goop-osis and little solid turds of goop shit in your oiling system" << I'm not sure where you squeeze this stuff into or how much muscle control you have, but this has NEVER been a problem I've had?! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

When building SBFs I use the factory metal and rubber VC gaskets and factory rubber Oil pan gaskets w/ a dab of GM black at the corners of the oil pan/TC cover and OP/rear main. I use 4 dabs around the water jackets on the intake and lay a 1/4" bead across where the cork gaskets would reside on your engine. I have not once had pucky in my oil, or had it run down the inside of the motor or have any leaks. The cork gaskets, in my experience, when glueing them down or not, don't fit very well, and still require pucky at the corners where it makes the transition to the cyl. head. Cork it up if you like, no cork here. I build my SBF to run like a scalded dog and am not concerned about putting 100K on it. I'm trying to make as much possible HP without splitting the motor in half. If I take it apart in 6 months, that's fine. If I don't and it makes it a year w/o a blown head gasket or other block failure, that's even better.

Good Day!

[zman]

[ QUOTE ]
Wow, how profound. I can tell I am dealing with someone who's never wrong and always has a better solution.


[/ QUOTE ]

pot, kettle, black....

[3blapcam]

Zman - I'm gonna have to disagree with you on that one. I basically follow the same thought process and procedure as that of Jim Forbes... I've said time and time again, use the cork if you like. Silicone is not the work of the devil is all I'm saying. It can be used and works fine. Others disagree.

[Ayers Garage]

Geez, I wish I had paid attention to the original post.

I'm one of those poor bastards that bought a Ford Motorsport 5.0L shortblock for my Mustang. At idle, no pressure, at higher revs, it had pressure and dry top end.

The FMS tech guy totally stonewalled me till I got nasty with him and he clued me into the probability of the missing galley plug.

We pulled the intake and sure enough, they had never put one in. It cost me like 70 cents at -Reilley to get the little sucker and get the problem fixed.

It was pretty stressful on a new 1200 dollar shortblock.

[zman]

One of the great thing is how opinionated we all are. we have our ways we stick to them. it's fine....

[Flat Ernie]

[ QUOTE ]
Quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Wow, how profound. I can tell I am dealing with someone who's never wrong and always has a better solution.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



pot, kettle, black....

[/ QUOTE ]

My thougths exactly. The problem is, I tell you WHY silicone won't work &amp; you tell me that it does because you build big engines with it. That doesn't mean anything - the two are not necessarily related. Please use a logical progression of thought.

Yes, I am opinionated. Yes, I am often wrong. It doesn't make me less opinionated. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I will always give opinion as opinion &amp; fact as fact (as I know it). For example, in another post, I said I did not believe that Ford put a posi in any 2.75:1 ratio rear ends, but caveated it with I did not know that to be a fact. I try to differentiate between the two.

FACT: Silicone will break down when exposed to petroleum products.

Please discuss logical points why I'm wrong. Engine builder X or machine shop Y using it, does not make it any different. I have conceded that it will work - for a while. If you are happy with that, that's fine.

My opinion is that if you KNOW something to be inferior &amp; use it because it's easier or less work, that is LAZY. But that's just my opinion - you may think it efficient. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[squirrel]

I've noticed that cork shrinks long before silicone breaks down.

But if you can make cork manifold end seals work, then good for you! It also adds a bit of a nostalgia look to an engine.

[JoeCollectible]

I had the intake off of this here 390, and the kit that I bought for it had 2 of those nice thick blue gaskets and 2 cheaper looking cork strips for the ends. I thought to myself... how cheap. I used all of em and no leaky for over 1 and 1/2 years http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I used the yellow gasket goop on the blue gaskets and some black silicone on the cork. Blue and yellow go good together as dose the black and cork.

Some of us here wish we knew half as much about motors as you guys know in general. - and here you guys are arguing over gaskets... You should be ashamed!