View Full Version : Paint!


65Cadirat
10-18-2008, 09:08 AM
Ok, Im prepared to catch some sh!t because my screen name has "rat" in it and my car is 40 years newer than most of yours so If you have an issue, please read my intro and hopefully that will clear things up for you. Now that were past that; Im workin' on painting my 65 cadilllac. This is my first "Rod" and Ive never painted anything before. I think that Im finally finished with my sanding and my plan is to paint it rustoleum "Satin White" since a) the car was originally white and b) everybody else paints their sh!t flat black and its tired and completely uncreative. What I was wondering is since its rustoleum do I need to primer it first or just shoot the satin on the car after Ive sanded? I painted my tool box with the rustoleum heavy metal primer and then black a long time ago and it turned out pretty good so I bought another quart of the heavy metal primer and a quart of the satin because I just assumed that I would have to prime it with the rusty metal primer first, but after thinking about it Im really wondering if I do have to prime? Help! :confused:

Rich Rogers
10-18-2008, 09:14 AM
I would shoot a coat of primer sealer first for a little added protection and once it's covered you'll be able to see any imperfections better. Just my .02

pimpin paint
10-18-2008, 11:32 AM
Hey,

The purpose of a primer coat is to provide a surface for the top coat (in your case Rustolem) to adhere to. Some rust protection is offered by a
primer coat, but not much. Primer, by nature, is porous so it will do its' job
of allowing the top coat to "soak" into it, and provide adheasion and good
colour holdout, for the top coat. Most "satin" & "flat" paintjobs that turn out "blotchy", once dry, are the result of a paint job being shot over a sur-
face that wasn't primed or prepared correctly. Triggering of the spray gun
and improper mixture can be factors, but an unprimed surface usually starts the paintjob on the road to ruin.

Swankey Devils C.C.
"Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"

57JoeFoMoPar
10-18-2008, 11:37 AM
Just a side note, if you paint the car with the rustoleum and later want to paint the car with real automotive paint, it ALL needs to be sanded off because the fish oil base of the Rustoleum will be incompatible with any automotive paint you use. The solvents will peel the rustoleum right off.

Food for thought

65Cadirat
10-19-2008, 06:42 AM
Hmm. Wow! Well, looks like I might want to go a different direction with my brand choice then. For my ultimate goal of a satin white finish how would you guys recommend going about that. (keep in mind Ive never painted before so the easier the better). I like satin white because a) its not flat b) pinstripes look goofy on glossy cars (to me).

Kustom7777
10-19-2008, 06:55 AM
if i were you, and i was set on doing a flat white,,first use a primer/sealer...then i'd buy some white automotive paint and add a flattening agent to it,,any good automotive paint store should be able to guide you as to how much flattener to use depening on finish (ie, matte, satin, etc)...as mentioned above,,primer is not waterproof,,,but if you use flattened PAINT as your topcoat you'll be fine..a basic white automotive paint shouldn't be terribly expensive either,,,

joeycarpunk
10-19-2008, 10:54 AM
if i were you, and i was set on doing a flat white,,first use a primer/sealer...then i'd buy some white automotive paint and add a flattening agent to it,,any good automotive paint store should be able to guide you as to how much flattener to use depening on finish (ie, matte, satin, etc)...as mentioned above,,primer is not waterproof,,,but if you use flattened PAINT as your topcoat you'll be fine..a basic white automotive paint shouldn't be terribly expensive either,,,

This is the direction I would go as well versus Rustoleum, white is reasonable as far as a paint compared to high metallics and reds. Also prep with primer/sealer, any short cuts at this point you'll regret later.

Mike Miller
10-19-2008, 11:25 AM
Base coat white with out clear coat is the cheapest way to get a satin paint job without causing your self a lot of grief later.

SlowandLow63
10-19-2008, 11:34 AM
Base coat white with out clear coat is the cheapest way to get a satin paint job without causing your self a lot of grief later.

Except for when the entire job fails because basecoat is just as pourous as primer. But other than that, no grief at all. :)

rustynewyorker
10-19-2008, 11:41 AM
Got a big Napa or auto paint store handy? Keep an eye out for a dented can or mismix paint, and you can usually score it fairly cheap.

Fish Tank
10-19-2008, 11:53 AM
Have you checked out Hot Rod Flatz yet? Here's a link:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx
It's what I plan on using when I get to that point. I've seen it used, looks real good up close. Plus, it's easy to mix and it's a flat...how hard is that?

Check 'em out.
There are multiple colors to choose from as well as satins and pearls.

magsnubby
10-19-2008, 10:09 PM
Since i want my '56 to look like gray primer, the paint store guy (NAPA's paint store) recommended just shoot it with a light gray then use a flattened clear. They also sell an already flattened clear so you don't have to worry about getting the right mix every time.

65Cadirat
10-23-2008, 03:51 PM
Yeah, I checked out the Hot Rod Flatz and they looked pretty cool. Kind of expensive though. Im not sure I want to throw $180 down the drain at my first paint job. Quick question though for the guys that were mentioning a flattening agent. Can I add a flattening agent to ANY color to get a flat or a satin paint? If so, I might go with a satin blue or something. I just need something moderately simple since its my first job. Something that 10,000 other people havent already done.

t-town-track-t
10-23-2008, 03:59 PM
to give you a short answer yes, you can add a compatible flatener to most any type of paint.

I must also add:

"If it were easy, little girls would do it"

Being different is not always easy

SlowandLow63
10-23-2008, 04:32 PM
$180 is nothing for materials. You're better off spending a few extra bucks rather than piecing your materials together on your first job.

Mopar34
10-23-2008, 04:38 PM
57JoeFoMoPar wrote:

Just a side note, if you paint the car with the rustoleum and later want to paint the car with real automotive paint, it ALL needs to be sanded off because the fish oil base of the Rustoleum will be incompatible with any automotive paint you use. The solvents will peel the rustoleum right off.



Actually Rustoleum no longer has fish oil in it, at least that is what I was told after making a comment similar to yours. However, I wouldn't use it anyway. At least not on any visible part.:D

Gene@Gearworksmfg
10-23-2008, 04:52 PM
I painted many things with Rustoleum Enamel (and cheap hardware store enamel) I would reduce it with DuPonts 3812 fast reducer and some Centari catalyst (hardner)

all jobs would come out great. For fun, you can put some silver in there.

SlowandLow63
10-23-2008, 04:54 PM
57JoeFoMoPar wrote:


Actually Rustoleum no longer has fish oil in it, at least that is what I was told after making a comment similar to yours. However, I wouldn't use it anyway. At least not on any visible part.:D

Its still oil-based. What oil they use is not the issue.

I painted many things with Rustoleum Enamel (and cheap hardware store enamel) I would reduce it with DuPonts 3812 fast reducer and some Centari catalyst (hardner)

all jobs would come out great. For fun, you can put some silver in there.

Rustoleum and great don't belong in the same description, unless the word not is also included.

Gene@Gearworksmfg
10-23-2008, 05:01 PM
Rustoleum and great don't belong in the same description, unless the word not is also included.

I'm not speaking of bc/cc jobs with colorsanding all the texture off for mile deep 'shine.

I've sprayed a few bikes/cars with said rustoleum jobs, that were satin, and for what it was, came out just fine. Now I don't believe that their is enough UV protectant for the paint to last, but it's not as bad as a cracking laquer job either.

For the cheap, it worked just fine for me.

38plymouth
10-23-2008, 06:31 PM
I agree with most of whats been said. If you are certain you will not want to repaint it again in the near future then go with the Rustoleum.

Alot of times when a person looks at their fresh cheap paint job they wish they had of taken it one step further. Then its too late unless its stripped. But if that's what the budget is then go for it and have fun doing it.

bobwop
10-23-2008, 07:34 PM
Since i want my '56 to look like gray primer, the paint store guy (NAPA's paint store) recommended just shoot it with a light gray then use a flattened clear. They also sell an already flattened clear so you don't have to worry about getting the right mix every time.
this is right on. go with the base color of your choice and then put on a couple of coats of clear. add your flames if you choose, then flatten the clear for the last coat. This is a very durable finish and you can wash it, leave it in the rain and even dust it with your CA duster! Only way to go.

indyjps
10-23-2008, 07:56 PM
$70, park outside for one summer and it will be satin.

Youll be using automotive paint, you can paint over it later.

http://stores.ebay.com/TCPGlobal-AutoBodyDepot_W0QQfcdZ2QQfciZQ2d1QQfclZ4QQfromZR10 QQfsnZTCPGlobalQ2dAutoBodyDepotQQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQs aselZ5549674QQsofpZ0QQtZkm

65Cadirat
10-27-2008, 06:05 PM
Ok, now that Ive figured out how to post pics here goes...Some pics of the car as I got it and some after sanding with 40 grit. As can be seen, the original partial flat black bastardation the previous owner had started. You guys are right; wont come off. Thats also partially why I would just like to primer it and use rustoleum satin white as my final coat, I know it will stick. Bye-the-way, I bought some of that "Aircraft Paint Remover" from the local parts store and holy crap! That stuff's insane! It also simply uncovered about 9 more layers of old paint before bare metal. Hmm....:(

cody repp
10-27-2008, 06:24 PM
Just a side note, if you paint the car with the rustoleum and later want to paint the car with real automotive paint, it ALL needs to be sanded off because the fish oil base of the Rustoleum will be incompatible with any automotive paint you use. The solvents will peel the rustoleum right off.

Food for thought


my thoughts exactly.....

MXmaniac
10-27-2008, 07:17 PM
Eastwood has a line of single stage paint that is real reasonable, and they have flat colors now. I can't speak of its quality because I haven't used it nor do I know anyone that has, but for a budget paintjob at home I'm sure it would be fine. Its probably very similar to the Hot Rod Flatz line. Just another option to consider.

Here's their white flat:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=22197&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=1334&iSubCat=1453&iProductID=22197

65Cadirat
11-04-2008, 07:18 AM
Im still not sure whether or not Im going to use them or not but I bought the vid for hotrod flatz and Im itching to check it out. I did actually start painting with the rustoleum last night and man I love that paint. It went on extremely smooth, albeit after I got all of the issues with my gun worked out....Ill post some pics when Im done.

zman
11-04-2008, 07:28 AM
Base coat white with out clear coat is the cheapest way to get a satin paint job without causing your self a lot of grief later.

Except for when the entire job fails because basecoat is just as pourous as primer. But other than that, no grief at all. :)


not only is the base coat pourous but it has no UV protection. Now a flattened single stage is the way to go. UV protection. Fairly cheap. Easy.

65Cadirat
11-22-2008, 04:24 PM
Ok, so I got some primer on it (snowed about 12 hours later...yay.) and heres how it looks...


now, its getting pretty cold here so I dont think that Ill have another window to paint (after this weekend) until the spring. I had bought satin wite for it but I dont think that It will cover this brown without doing 40 thousand coats, or will it? (if not, I guess its the "CoCo Bomb" until further notice...

HighSpeed LowDrag
11-22-2008, 05:04 PM
Just out of curiosity, if you knew that you were going to paint it white, why didn;t you get a white primer?

I try to get all of my primers tinted the same color as the final color. Less chances of rock chips showing and "seems" like less coats of base color.

VonDust
11-22-2008, 05:17 PM
Just put it in White Sealer and leave it. Or... you can also take whit base coat and add some hardner to it. Do test panels and see how much you have to add to get the right sheen you want. The hardner will also add some durability to the paint.

jalopy_jimmy
11-22-2008, 05:24 PM
AS A PAINTER ID GO 2 STAGE BASE / CLEAR W/ A FLAANING AGENT IN IT AND IT WONT CHALK UP N WILL LAST JUST DO SOME TEST PANALS TILL U GET THE SHEEN UR LOOKIN 4:cool:

Strange Agent
11-22-2008, 05:26 PM
Just out of curiosity, if you knew that you were going to paint it white, why didn;t you get a white primer?

I try to get all of my primers tinted the same color as the final color. Less chances of rock chips showing and "seems" like less coats of base color.
I was thinking the same thing... especially with white.

65Cadirat
11-22-2008, 09:24 PM
Yeah, Im an idiot. I had used this primer before and I was really happy with it and I was so focused on using it that when I picked up the white it was almost an afterthought. I didnt even realize what I had done until I already had one coat of primer on and wet sanding done. Big ass "duh" on that one.

HRK-hotrods
11-22-2008, 10:03 PM
Yeah, Im an idiot. I had used this primer before and I was really happy with it and I was so focused on using it that when I picked up the white it was almost an afterthought. I didnt even realize what I had done until I already had one coat of primer on and wet sanding done. Big ass "duh" on that one.


Let me guess, you still used the Rustoleum primer AFTER everyone told you the end result?:rolleyes::eek:

You could have went to AutoZone, bought a gallon of duplicolor Light Gray acrylic laquer primer for $30 and at least you would have had AUTOMOTIVE primer on it. ;)

One other thing, you mentioned you used 40 grit... I hope you went over that with some 100, 220, 320 then 400... If not, it's gonna look like you went over it with a rake.

Just because it's your first paintjob, it doesn't have to look like it is. There are a lot of people on here offering good advise. Soak it up, plan it out using some of the tips you get and don't rush it. It will turn out fine.:D Remember this, the paint job is only as good as the prep that's under it...

Goozgaz
01-29-2009, 02:02 AM
I'm no painter. So here's my input.

Good single stage auto paint is the easiest and most cost efective way to go for what you want. Did a few cars with a single stage PPG and added flattner to get that satin/flat look. Infinate color possibilities and you can get it as flat or shiney as you want it.

On another note. I'm going to be painting a car with a roller and a can of Rustolem. Yup, a foam roller approach.

Why???

(1) I want to see the results for myself. (2) I can live with the results of my labor good or bad (3) I have the time (4) I believe that there are many ways to skin a cat.

HotRod33
01-29-2009, 08:41 AM
Rustoleum and great don't belong in the same description, unless the word not is also included.[/quote]
wow that is an understatement....sand the car down and take it to a shop that just paints cars....we have one here called Earl Shriebs and they will paint a car with their ambassador paint job for 245 dollars....they wipe the car dwon mask it off and shoot it in a booth...they will put a flattener in it......check out the shops around your area and see if there is one that does this...... Not what I would do with mine but it would get it done for you.....