cost to rebuild a hemi?

[51Hg]

I want to know how much does it cost to rebuild a hemi? I'm thinking nothing to wild just a rebuild for street use and the goodies for handling a row of 3 or 6 stroms. If you could break down the costs that would be great, like how much for the machine work, new pistons stuff like that. If you got pics of yours post em, nothing like looking at a fully dressed hemi. any body got one for sale?

[Andy]

Go to Hotheads.com and look up prices. It varies tremendously which year and make you want to build. If Chrysler, also look at PAW.

[51Hg]

thanks for the info on the web site. anybody else have any input?....bttt

[Stoner]

What year hemi are you lookin' at? My '53 is sometimes called a 'long bell' because of the cast-in bellhousing. You can usually find these cheaper than later blocks since you either have to do some machining (which can lead to cracking if you're not careful) or find an adapter depending on what kind of tranny you want to run. If you want an automatic, go to transmissionadapters.com and ask for Bob Bendtsen. He makes adapters for all kinds of weird apps and he'll help you out. Manuals are easier to get adapters for.

Also, if you want to warm it over a little, be prepared to change the water pump to make room for a long-nose cam that can give you a little more spring in your step.

Hot Heads makes their own intakes that are real neat. Ask Bob Walker down there about all the goodies. He's a great guy and will take the time to answer your questions.

STONER

[yorgatron]

it's gonna cost at LEAST 2-3000 bucks to build ANYTHING anymore.i'm building a Rambler flat 6 for a friend right now,even doing everything on the cheap and donating my labor it's still around $1750!

[porknbeaner]

We just checked prices at Egge for a '53 desoto (331 I think). 800.00 for pistons, rings, and bearings. No gaskets etc.

[Just Gary]

I don't have specific $ numbers, but as I'm making plans for my 354, am quickly learning a rule of thumb-
Hemi parts cost twice what the equivilant SBC parts cost. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

[plan9]

i paid $1700 for my 331 chrysler, off a HAMB'r... it had some speed parts installed.

-sheiffer magneto
-roller cam (unkown specs for now)
-firepower valve covers
-jahns pistons (i think)
-dual quad intake

fair price as its in pretty good condition. missing a few small bits, but overall the engine is there.

im going to tear it down and send it to the machine shop for a checkup... im intending to drag race and my overall cost will be in the $3000 area, maybe more.. goal is to be in the low 12s/high 11s in a roughly 2500 pnd car.

IMO - no matter what you do, it wont be as cheap as other engine options out there... HEMI name has a perfomace stigma about it, therefore prices are over the top.

[mr.midnite]

cost shouldn't even be a factor as long as it's what you want. Here is my makings for a kool motor,

[dehudso]

I got a completely rebuilt 1956 DeSoto hemi for $2800 with the chevy trans and adapter plate too.
Really expensive, but none cooler.

[cadlights]

$600.00 takes this 55 Desoto Hemi if ya want to come to Utah and get it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v298/cadlights/56desotohemi001.jpg

[Gr8ballsofir]

I'm doing a pretty much stock rebuild right now and I'm probably looking at about $2000.00 (machine work plus parts)

[Tman]

Anything odd is pricier than an SBC. My CHEVY 348 will be close to 2 grand for the longblock ready to run, minus intake and carbs.

I have priced out Hemis for guys and it goes to 4 and 5K REAL quick! It all depends on what you start with? Is you block good? is your cranks scored? etc. Many said my 348 would cost 5K to do it right?

[Thirdyfivepickup]

I'm just starting plans for a 392... my research, so far, has scared me to death! I'm a wholesale performance warehouse and the stuff I can get (which isn't much) is still expensive as hell!

...although... the Weiand blower setup wasn't as bad as I thought.... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[speedaddict]

it can jump up to 8k real fast http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif. I know somebody that knows somebody that rebuilt one here in Austin... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[51Hg]

don't know what year yet because I don't have a block yet. All I'm doing now is wanting some numbers on build up costs? I'm looking for some thing different to put in my 50 merc besides a SBC and cost could make me decide on a different mill.

[Blownolds]

These things will make a huge difference:

1) Do you have an engine core?
2) How complete is it?

I sold a disassembled early long-bell 331-- block (needing at least 3 sleeves), crank, rods, bare heads, Jahn's pistons, and stock rocker arm assemblies, and that's IT-- for $400. Engine cores will generally cost you $400 on up to $2000, depending on which hemi you want (Dodge, Desoto, Chrysler), and which year and CID you want. Big differences in these things.

I also sold a 331 to another HAMB'r for $1700 that had a roller cam (and roller lifters), Scheiffer magneto, chromed Firepower valve covers in pretty nice shape, Weiand 2x4 intake, yes, Jahn's pistons, extra capacity oil pan, adjustable pushrods, and some other trinkets on it like an aluminum valley pan (flat plate, but still). It still needed a few items but was mostly there.

Plan9, how's that going for you? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Now back to the original question--

Figure on at least $1000 for machine shop work depending on what you do, plus a bunch of money for a "complete" rebuild kit that WON'T be complete for a rebuild. You'll have to spend $ on core charges for things like oil and water pumps, or rocker assemblies. Hopefully things like your rocker assemblies will be in good shape, but if not, you'll have to send them out for rebuilding. Plus shipping. You'll have to purchase an engine to start with. And then you'll be paying for any missing components that you'll need to complete it.

Figure on an easy 4K-6K for a complete overhaul including the cost of the engine core and parts, but if you get crazy, even more. There are guys that have over 10K in non-race streetrod hemi's, but they went all out on everything. Not trying to scare you, just trying to prep you.

To put this in perspective though, it's not even that hard to put 4-6K in a nice small block Chevy street-strip engine. Really, it's not.

[plan9]

[ QUOTE ]

I also sold a 331 to another HAMB'r for $1700 that had a roller cam (and roller lifters), Scheiffer magneto, chromed Firepower valve covers in pretty nice shape, Weiand 2x4 intake, yes, Jahn's pistons, extra capacity oil pan, adjustable pushrods, and some other trinkets on it like an aluminum valley pan (flat plate, but still). It still needed a few items but was mostly there.

Plan9, how's that going for you? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif



[/ QUOTE ]

hey nate http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

ive shifted focus for awhile, getting the 57 ranchero to a respectable level of finish, meanwhile the coupe and all its pieces are on hold. i was dropping too much coin on too many different things... money got extremely tight (out of work for a long period of time). so the cookie crumbles.

nice thing is ive come up with a solid design which includes fenders. soon, VERY soon the coupe begins...figuring at the very least an additional $3k on top of the purchase price of the motor.... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[Blownolds]

Cool, Mike. You are going to want to get a flywheel for that engine, and of course while you have it apart, go ahead and rebalance.

I understand about going on the back burner for a while, I've had to do that too. But I'm going to toss a LOT of stuff on eBay in the next two months and then I can do some more to get further along. It's just crazy money.

Let me know if you still want that 312 head for $75. I also think I still have a pair of very nice side blades for the 1/4's of a '57 Rancho. I will want $60 for the pair, they are straight with no dents. I don't remember selling them, they might still be up in the rafters.


Back to the topic again-- other things that will make a difference in the total price of your engine-- new custom lightweight forged pistons vs. cast pistons, stainless valves vs. stock valves, whether or not you do any head porting, whether or not the heads get bronze guides, or PROPER valvesprings for the cam you have, the list goes on, trust me. Your engine will be what you put into it.

[plan9]

[ QUOTE ]
Cool, Mike. You are going to want to get a flywheel for that engine, and of course while you have it apart, go ahead and rebalance.

I understand about going on the back burner for a while, I've had to do that too. But I'm going to toss a LOT of stuff on eBay in the next two months and then I can do some more to get further along. It's just crazy money.

Let me know if you still want that 312 head for $75. I also think I still have a pair of very nice side blades for the 1/4's of a '57 Rancho. I will want $60 for the pair, they are straight with no dents. I don't remember selling them, they might still be up in the rafters.

[/ QUOTE ]

nate - im gonna adapt a TH350 to it... wonder if you can use a chevy flywheel?? i sit in the garage and smile like an idiot everytime i look at it... deffinately worth the money spent.

gonna send you a pm about the 312 heads.

[desoto]

[ QUOTE ]
I don't have specific $ numbers, but as I'm making plans for my 354, am quickly learning a rule of thumb-
Hemi parts cost twice what the equivilant SBC parts cost. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

That doesn't look like a 354 intake in the picture. Looks more like a 331 intake (thermostat in the intake, not in the removable casting across the front of the heads)

Anyway, when I went through the '53 block in my '34 back in the winter of ’92 - '93 it ran me $5,200.00 and change to do it.

Used the same pistons, cam, heads and intake.

I had another “standard” crank turned (mine was already 0.010” undersized) and resized another set of stock rods (mine were starting to crack….get the parts magnafluxed)

Anyway, I bored out a $100.00 block from 3-13/16” to 3-15/16 and put my 12.5:1 pistons in it.

Crower welded up the two worn journals on my cam and reground it as well as rebuilding 14 roller tappets and replacing two, all for under $300.00. At the same time, I dropped the valve spring pressure down from 170 pounds on the seat to 130 pounds. The new Crower springs were included in the above monetary figure. I was always galling rockers and wearing out pushrod ends. Now, after more than 11 years, I haven’t had a single problem. It won’t rev past 6,000 rpm anymore (valves float) but I never ran it up that high that often before I changed the springs so it wasn’t a big deal. I just set the rev limiter and he valves don’t float.

What killed me was the cost of the gasket set and bearings. …..and, since the engine is bored an eighth, the 331 head gaskets in the set wouldn’t work. I couldn’t use 354 gaskets, either, because the pushrod hole extends out beyond the deck. Can you say oil leak?

The aluminium (hey Carps, see, I remembered) flywheel was dished from the years of running a 12-spring Dodge truck pressure plate so I replaced it with a new-in-box Weber aluminium unit and an 11” Centerforce clutch.

The heads got 16 new valves and 16 new guides. ALWAYS replace the guides, especially on the intakes. Stay away from bronze guides. They don’t last on the street and the cold-clearance is 3 or 4 times wider than the sintered iron (stock) guide so the valves dance around until the heads heat up. This isn’t a good idea considering the geometry of the intake rocker system.

DON’T knurl the guides, either. The knurl won’t last much over 1,000 miles and you’ll start sucking oil down the guides.

Bottom line is, other than the flywheel and clutch, the rebuild was pretty much routine. ….and I DIDN’T have to buy pistons or a cam and my core only cost me $100.00.

Fifty two hundred is a bit expensive when you compare it to a similar rebuild for a SBC.

Bearings have come down in cost since Egge Machine commissioned King Bearing to build them again but gasket sets are still right up there, dollarwise.

[Blownolds]

DeSoto, did you have custom gaskets made, or did you modify the 331 gaskets? If custom, who made them?

[desoto]

Funny you should ask. I was just going to go back and edit my post 'cause I forgot to mention the cost.

Tom Hanaford at Antique Auto PArts Cellar in Weymouth, MA had a set of dies made to punch out a 3-15/16 bore gasket that matched ther rest of the holes in a '51-'54 head gasket.

Actually, what happened was I loaned him one of my Fitzgerald 055nSR gaskets and he used it for a pattern.

They're around $75.00 a pair and they're made out of Armstrong Thermo-torque. It's a linoleum style of gasket (i.e. you can roll it up like a piece of linoleum) that’s used in the nuclear power industry. It cures under extreme pressure and heat. It’s used on the cooling pipe flanges and turns to a ceramic-like state once it’s cured.

You HAVE to use a mold release on it, otherwise, you won’t be able to get the heads off later. It actually imbeds itself into the pores and seals good enough that you can run the engine for a bit w/o the head bolts.

I use a spray can of Copper Coat gasket sealer. I put on a couple of coats and the heads are still a bit difficult to get off but they DO come off.

You put the gaskets in place, torque ‘em down, wait overnight and torque them again THEN you put the coolant in.

Tom sent me a set of his “composite” head gaskets in the spring of 2000 when I did a valve job on the heads. They’re that new, high tech, carbon-impregnated stuff that the car manufacturers are using these days. They’re supposed top be slippery enough to “slide” into place as you torque the heads.

The problem with these gaskets is that they’re real thin. The Thermo-torque gaskets squash down to approximately 0.050”. That’s a pretty thick gasket, so, my 12.5:1 compression pistons work because the gasket’s so thick it effectively lowers the compression.

The new high tech gaskets made gobs more horsepower BUT I blew one right in the garage even before I got the car down off the jack stands. If you look at the pictures you can see where about ¾” of the gasket blew away right at the pushrod hole on cyl. #4

I took the car out for a ride to “clean off the plugs” and get rid of the skip. Turns out it wasn’t a dirty plug, it was a blown gasket. The oil smoke out the breathers was so bad I thought I’d blown a rad hose but as soon as I lifted off the accelerator, the smoke went away.

[desoto]

the head

[desoto]

Armstrong Thermotorque

[cadlights]

If ya want to adapt a 350 Chevy trans to it, here's what I did.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB3&Number=442542&Forum=U BB3&Words=hemi%20adapter&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Sea rchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=6months&Main=441822&Search= true#Post442542

[cadlights]

By the way, I still have the pattern.

[Blownolds]

Thanks, DeSoto!$75's not expensive at all for custom gaskets! Sure beats the $3500 I'd have to pay Cometic for a batch of 25 pairs (only way they'll do it).

I want to run my blower hard on race gas, and with coolant in it, and that creates a problem. Copper gaskets seep coolant and won't be good for street use or any pressurized cooling system. So I have been eyeballing the Cometic's.

How easy is that Armstrong stuff would be to trim with a pair of scissors????

Please post that guy's contact info for his shop too, I'd like to know what size bore dies he has on hand.

[Just Gary]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I don't have specific $ numbers, but as I'm making plans for my 354, am quickly learning a rule of thumb-
Hemi parts cost twice what the equivilant SBC parts cost. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

That doesn't look like a 354 intake in the picture. Looks more like a 331 intake (thermostat in the intake, not in...

[/ QUOTE ]

Very observant, DeSoto.
It's a '58 354 Chrysler Hemi out of a Dodge school bus. Truck Hemis had the thermostat in the intake and tall, narrow carb heat riser passages in the heads.

I've since bought a set of '56 354 automotive heads with the water outlets on the fronts of the heads. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Now back to your regularly scheduled programing...

[unclescooby]

I've got a rebuilt 392 hemi with a blower on Ebay with no reserve at $6500. They seem to sell in the $9000-10000 range typically. Here is a link if you need one....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2491908471&rd=1&sspage name=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT