More driveline questions...will they never end?

[CURIOUS RASH]

<font color="green"> So, I am on the quest to toughen up the 59's driveline and some questions have come up.

On transmissions with a splined slip type output shaft, (yes, I'm talking about a TH350), how much of the shaft should be out of the tranny, or in other words, how much play should there be?

Should it be measured from the tailshaft to the flange or is it more acurrate to loosen the u-joints from the diff yoke, push the driveline in as far as it will go (carrier loose if present) and then measure the gap?

Also, I am told that there is a certain degree the carrier should be set at so that it is not in perfect alignmnet. I am assuming this is meant for left to right or vise-versa. For example the center would be aiming towards the driver or passenger side.

Any info on this?

RASHY
</font>

[flt-blk]

When I measured for my driveshaft I inserted the yolk all
the way, pulled it out 1" then took my measurement.

I don't understand your other question.
TZ

[CURIOUS RASH]

[ QUOTE ]
When I measured for my driveshaft I inserted the yolk all
the way, pulled it out 1" then took my measurement.

I don't understand your other question.
TZ

[/ QUOTE ] <font color="green">An inch I've got! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

The other question, imagine you are looking down on your driveline from above.

from front to back, there should be a slight zig zag, rather than a perfect straight line, if I'm understanding my info correctly.

On another note, I've had a strange grumble in my daily for quite a while now, got under there and that carrier is shot also.

Carrier bearings are not my friend. </font>

[flt-blk]

We had this discussion the other day and ElP gave some good
reference links. It took me a minute to find it, go here.
Driveline Post (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&amp;Board=UBB1&amp;Number=544141&amp;Forum=A ll_Forums&amp;Words=1555&amp;Match=Username&amp;Searchpage=1&amp;L imit=25&amp;Old=allposts&amp;Main=542863&amp;Search=true#Post5 44141)
TZ

[CURIOUS RASH]

[ QUOTE ]
We had this discussion the other day and El-P gave some good
reference links. It took me a minute to find it, go here.
Driveline Post (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&amp;Board=UBB1&amp;Number=544141&amp;Forum=A ll_Forums&amp;Words=1555&amp;Match=Username&amp;Searchpage=1&amp;L imit=25&amp;Old=allposts&amp;Main=542863&amp;Search=true#Post5 44141)
TZ

[/ QUOTE ] <font color="green">Perfect!!!

Thanks Tyler, and El-P.

</font>

[LoungeLife]

Hey Rashy - you might check out an S-10 set up - the shaft past the carrier is a slipyoke already. Also there's a place that advertsies in Lowrider magazines that sells polyurethane carrier bearings designed to take the abuse of bouncing a car around on hydraulics.

Last time Josh knocked a carrier out on the Impala we welded steel strap around the housing before we installed the new one (purchased at O'Really's) and you see what kind of abuse it takes.

lounge

[choprods]

Rashy here's what I know[and thats all I know] http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
an Inch is plenty of gap fo the yoke to tailshaft housing....My 1988 ORIGINAL -chevy- work truck has more like 1-1/2"-2" hangin out-BUT I've never had it out to see if its longer as some Ford yokes are.
as a side note ..a good way to lengthen the carriers life is to NOT jack up car by its frame BUT JACK UNDER THE REAR END as this eliminates the thrust force put on the carrier bearing as the rear end is hanging down as low as it can hang while jacked off the ground....This causes the bearing to be "pushed forwards and out of the rubber surround its bonded in.
OK....Lecture is over! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[CURIOUS RASH]

<font color="green">Well hell,

That's some good info.

Everytime I jack that Beotch up, I lift the frame as high as it will go and then jack up the axle for tire clearance.

Just gotta figure out how to get a jack under the axle and have enough room to work the jack with it sitting at ride height.

Very interesting. </font>

[oldchevyseller]

just drive it up on some 2x6 blocks sloped like people use for leveling the camper , little ramps i made, and then you can get a jack under the rear end i drive a 60 belair,and it is way low

[choprods]

Rashy-just take three peices of 2x6lumber....ONE 3 feet long -then drywall screw a second peice 2 feet long on it then a third peice 1 foot long screwed on top of second board....now you have a-1/2" thru 4-1/2"graduated "ramp" to raise the car-so a jack will fit under the rear control arm when you have a flat out on the road...or make a pair http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
also helps when gettin a car on the hoist at a shop if your car is low.

[ray]

for your front shaft, you want at least 1 degree of angle to the carrier bearing, so the u joints do their job and prevent vibration, side to side would work just as well as up and down. straight on is bad. that's where the side to side offset can help you on the rear shaft, by having a degree or so of horizontal offset to the pinion, you can help avoid vibrations if you happen to operate your car with the driveshaft staight on, like if you have airbags and drive at different heights. cause the needed offset is always there.

another thing that gets little thought with driveshafts with carrier bearings, is how the carier bearing is mounted, you have to match the pinion angle to the carrier to the output shaft, both vertically and horizontally, if the carrier bearing is twisted slightly or something it can throw everything off.

for a good interesting technical read, find some newer factory shop manuals that detail tracking down vibrations in cars by measuring the frequency of the vibration, understanding the different orders of the frequencies of vibration, etc. they get pretty involved!