How do I inspect a Camaro subbed '39 Chevy?

[Darby]

So I'm going to check out a '39 Chevy truck tonight that's had a Camaro front subframe installed. I know how to look for rust and lakes of Bondo, but I've never really gone over a rod with a new subframe installed. I'm figurin' on taking a few triangulated measurements off stock holes in the frame (there's no motor in it) to see if it was put in square , but
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif what else should I look for/measure??? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Also, if there's any known/traditional problems with '39 Chevy trucks beyond the usual cab corners, body mounts, etc, lemme know.

Thanks!

[Hot Rod To Hell]

Make sure you look at the welds holding the subframe in!

[roadstar]

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Make sure you look at the welds holding the subframe in!

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That is a real good place to start. Also check and see how wide he front end is, AND if it has been narrowed or not. MAny of these applications were alittle too wide and people would narrow them. Thats where most of the trouble would start. The stearing geomatry isn't really ment to be narrower and most people just kinda hack and lash till things fit.

Might not hurt to take some pics of things you find that are questionable and post them here.

[Petejoe]

I think you pretty well thought of all the problem areas.
I usually hate to buy a car that's been sub'd unless my plans are to remove it altogether and replace it with something better.
So many time poor welds can be hid with roof coating, caulking and undercoating. Remove the front wheels and get a real up close and personnal look at that installation.
I hate it when guys think they are making a rod better by doing that.
Oh yea... Where's your intro newbee???

[dvlscoupe]

I sub'd my '53 with a Camaro front steering sub frame, steering geom and engine placement was easiest this way. When you measure make sure to measure from diagnal corners, inspect the welds as if your life depends on it (cause it pretty much dose). I'm trying to think what else I did when I put mine on. Try and make sure it's not warped is the big thing other than the welds,

[Darby]

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AND if it has been narrowed or not. MAny of these applications were alittle too wide and people would narrow them. Thats where most of the trouble would start.

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I'm guessing that I can tell if it's been narrowed if the cross member has been cut in half to be resized? Weld inspection is my top priority, but I look at welds every day at work, so I should be able to spot the uglies there, and I'll scrape off as much trunk paint as I have to.

Somebody asked for an intro: Me- wanna-be rodder living in Boston, MA, moved from Detroit a little while ago. Used to be an engine designer for the Big 3. Motor City guys might have seen my yellow '66 Sport Fury convert rolling its Torque Thrusts down Woodward until recently. I'm looking for a new project, and think something low, loud, and suede would be a nice contrast to all the BMW's and Audi's I have to commute with every morning in this overpriced city. I'm hoping to find a decent truck project that I can put together over the winter (and just moved to a shittier apartment so I can rent a garage- priorities, man...)

[Stevie G]

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I'm hoping to find a decent truck project that I can put together over the winter (and just moved to a shittier apartment so I can rent a garage- priorities, man...)

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Sounds alright to me.
I'm shopping for a large barn/warehouse with a studio apartment.

[Darby]

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Might not hurt to take some pics of things you find that are questionable and post them here.

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Well, just got back. Looks like they chopped the Camaro right behind the trans mount, and used some big plates of 1/8"+ to help strengthen the graft. Supposedly, the swap was done with the truck on a frame machine. Overall, the welds look pretty good in most places, though there are a couple that I'd redo. Diagonal measurements from suspension points to frame points on the truck all checked ok, and the wheels were centered pretty well in the fenders. The cross member under the engine hadn't been sectioned, so I assumed it was the stock Camaro width.

Here's a pic, truck frame at left, with the reinforcing plates/channel in the middle under the wooden "cab mount", nad the trans crossmember heading towards you. Seem like a decent way to do this?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/darbyej/P9140003.jpg

Here's one of the other side. Yeah, it needs cab mounts replaced, but that looks like an easy fab job. I just noticed the dent in the Camaro rail, just ahead of where he clearanced the cab to clear the sub. For some reason, I didn't see it when I looked over the truck...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/darbyej/P9140011.jpg

The rest of the truck was in decent-to-good shape, and we agreed on a price that I think was fair to both of us. I'm going to run this subframe swap past a couple guys I know, but is anybody here scared of the above set-up?

[Hot Rod To Hell]

I think that dent you're referring to is a factory deal... nothing to worry about.

As far as everything else, I think I may box the inside of those frames where the graft is, just for a little "insurance".

[Rocky]

Well, if all the measurements check out,it needs a ton of boxing. I gotta wonder about tire/front fender clearance on this truck. A 39 Chevy pickup is a narrow little booger and the front track on a front-steer Camaro is pretty wiiiiiiiiide. Do the tires fit under the fenders ok? Got room to turn the front wheels after the weight of the engine is in?
I ask because I got a buddy that just sold his 40 chevy pickup...had a moostang front and this thing sat on-the-ground low! He had room to turn the wheels but things were tight. A Camaro sub has a track 3-5 inches wider that the mustang. Are you thinking the front will ride a little high, giving you tire clearance? Keep in mind, "high", for me, is 4 inches off the ground.
BTW, 39 chevy pickup grills are a little hard to find too...got a good one with the truck?

[Darby]

I'd box the living daylights out of that section where it's grafted. The inside of the rails don't all land on the same plane so it won't be as simple as just welding flat plates, but I think it needs to be done. The tires on it do fit under the fenders (they are at the outside of the wells though). I didn't turn them lock-to-lock to see if they'd hit- there wasn't a steering column in the car, just the shaft coming out of the steering box. Obviously, I could have still turned the wheels, but I didn't think of it at the time. I don't plan on running this "in the weeds"- it'll be a daily driver in a neighborhood with bad roads, so I'll lower it, but probably not below 4".

The grill on this one sucks- I'm checking Ebay and some of the re-pop places (looks like Jim Carter has non-chrome ones for $250) to see what another one would cost. It's also missing the emblem in the center of the hood, and I don't know how rare those are either...

[choprods]

If the front clip[sheetmetal] is not mounted and on there I can almost guarantee you its either too wide or it is a situation where the ride height is sky high.
It would be my guess that that old a truck would be narrower than a front steer camaro for sure and damned close on a rear steer....Narrowing would be an option.
TRIANGULATED measurements/ comparison would be smart.

[Darby]

Sounds like I need to go back and check it out again, and really look over those fender clearances. They fit under right now, but they're pointed straight ahead and there's no motor in the truck:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/darbyej/39track.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/darbyej/39track2.jpg