plym49
08-09-2008, 07:38 PM
Hi all, I'm new to the forum. I own a 1917 Ford Touring hot rod that was, I believe, built by Fred Gerhardt in Fresno around 1953. It has a 53 Buick 322, Dynaflow, 3 97s, 32 front and rear axles, a sectioned 49 Ford dash, and a unique tube frame that incorporates stock front and rear crossmembers. The body is channeled over the frame. The rear doors are welded shut and the steel body is mounted integrally with the frame. The suicide perch is mounted between the spring and the axle. The car has a perfect stance and it handles well, not surprising since it was built by a well-known race-car fabricator.
The car spent most if its time in Fresno where it apparently went through two or three owners. But it spent most of its time in storage, so it survived intact. It looks like someone had a naugahyde interior professionally fabricated in the 1960s. The car was registered in California in the 60s and I have the black plates.
Anyway, when I got the car it was all there but it took quite a bit of work to get it running dependably. Once sorted out, though, it has been a very dependable and fun rod, and I drive it as much as I can.
Three years ago, one of the axle shafts sheared where the taper enters the hub. This, again, is a 32 V8 rear end. I had trouble finding an 18 tooth axle shaft. I did find a good 16 tooth axle (from a later year banjo) which has the same taper and keyway. I had my 18 tooth inner mated to the new outer by rifle drilling, slugging and welding. The repaired axle ran true.
Well, last weekend - a few years and a few thousand miles later - that weld broke. I pulled it all apart today and it looks like the weld had poor penetration and it also seemed like the drilling/slugging was inadequate. So, now I need to find a good 18 tooth axle. Alternately, I can have my pieces again spliced together, as there is still plenty of meat, but this time it would have to be done properly.
A third option is to have my rear modified to use modern hubs so that I eliminate the tapered ends. This is the strongest but it is not authentic to the way the car was built so I doubt I will go this route.
The 32 rear is kind of weak for this application, but with the Dynaflow the rear does not see shock loading. Also, the car is light and the rear 7.60 x 16 Firestones are not that sticky. I should be able to continue using the rear that is in the car.
It is important that I keep the car as original as possible. Nowadays folks call it a rat, but it was no rat when it was built. There are many custom-facbricated parts, many of them chromed, and no billet. This car was built to the standard of the day by a pro. I appreciate its 55 years of patina. :)
I installed safety brackets the first time the axle broke. These are the type that bolt to the wheel cylinder and wrap around the drum. As a pure bolt-on, I can accept this even though this is not original to the car. I am glad that they were on the car, though, when that axle let go again.
I'd appreciate it if anyone can help hook me up with a good 32 V8 axle (18 teeth), or if you can recommend someone who can properly repair my axle, or if you have any other ideas.
Thanks, John
The car spent most if its time in Fresno where it apparently went through two or three owners. But it spent most of its time in storage, so it survived intact. It looks like someone had a naugahyde interior professionally fabricated in the 1960s. The car was registered in California in the 60s and I have the black plates.
Anyway, when I got the car it was all there but it took quite a bit of work to get it running dependably. Once sorted out, though, it has been a very dependable and fun rod, and I drive it as much as I can.
Three years ago, one of the axle shafts sheared where the taper enters the hub. This, again, is a 32 V8 rear end. I had trouble finding an 18 tooth axle shaft. I did find a good 16 tooth axle (from a later year banjo) which has the same taper and keyway. I had my 18 tooth inner mated to the new outer by rifle drilling, slugging and welding. The repaired axle ran true.
Well, last weekend - a few years and a few thousand miles later - that weld broke. I pulled it all apart today and it looks like the weld had poor penetration and it also seemed like the drilling/slugging was inadequate. So, now I need to find a good 18 tooth axle. Alternately, I can have my pieces again spliced together, as there is still plenty of meat, but this time it would have to be done properly.
A third option is to have my rear modified to use modern hubs so that I eliminate the tapered ends. This is the strongest but it is not authentic to the way the car was built so I doubt I will go this route.
The 32 rear is kind of weak for this application, but with the Dynaflow the rear does not see shock loading. Also, the car is light and the rear 7.60 x 16 Firestones are not that sticky. I should be able to continue using the rear that is in the car.
It is important that I keep the car as original as possible. Nowadays folks call it a rat, but it was no rat when it was built. There are many custom-facbricated parts, many of them chromed, and no billet. This car was built to the standard of the day by a pro. I appreciate its 55 years of patina. :)
I installed safety brackets the first time the axle broke. These are the type that bolt to the wheel cylinder and wrap around the drum. As a pure bolt-on, I can accept this even though this is not original to the car. I am glad that they were on the car, though, when that axle let go again.
I'd appreciate it if anyone can help hook me up with a good 32 V8 axle (18 teeth), or if you can recommend someone who can properly repair my axle, or if you have any other ideas.
Thanks, John