Removing spring perches from model A I-beam, help!

[daren]

Well so I take the castle nut off of the one on the right side and it literally falls out of the axle. The left side will not budge, ive hammered on it , said a few f-words, soaked it with PB Blaster, more f-words still nothing. I don't want to screw up the threads on it, so I was hammering through a piece of wood.

Should I use a rawhide mallet or what. I don't have a blue wrench to put some heat on it, but I just might have to get one now, its out there soaking in PB. I guess a machine shop could press it out but I hate to haul this shit down there and hate having to pay someone to do it even more.

If anyone here has been through this before, please lend me some tips or tricks to remove this fucker, the beer just ain't making me any less pissed.

[coupeHEAD]

daren, better take it to a machine shop and press it out. They can be very difficult to remove without messing up the threads.

[Zodoff]

Heat,oil,heat,oil.(thin oil) Then a BFH,and try again.
They can be hell to get out.

[willowbilly3]

When freeing up rusty parts, patience is the first order of business. The penetrant is next. Apply it several times a day followed by hammering. Hammer anywhere around the area you can and as hard as possible without damaging anything. The vibration of hammering helps the penetrant get in there. Sometimes it may take a week or two of this but if it can be freed up eventually it will. Of course there is no substituition for heat. Also for hammering on the bolt use a large diameter brass drift to avoid damage. You just can't get enough impact through wood. And when hammering on a bolt or pin that is frozen you are actually swelling the bolt if you hammer too hard directly on it

[Digger_Dave]

All of the above...

Then try threading a nut of the same size as the bolt on the end about 1/2 way down the bolt. (so 1/2 the nut thread is still above the bolt) Take another bolt and screw it in to the top of the nut, tighten it down on top of the pearch pin. (this will keep the hammer blows centered on the pearch bolt)

Heat still is the best cure; invest in a butane torch. (not as hot as an acytelene torch, but be patient; it WILL add some heat!)

[Bruce Lancaster]

Another hammer/press aid: Get a rear axle "knocker" type hub puller, which is just a stout long acorn nut in the same thread (I think 5/8-18?) as perches (and steering too). Screw it onto the perch, adding a ball bearing inside--this bearing between perch center and the drilled center of the knocker allows all force to be taken directly on the end of the perch rather than by the suffering threads. Now you have a way to apply great amounts of violence and pressure without destroying your forging. The knockers are available dirt cheap(~$5)from all the places that sell early Ford repro parts.