HELP i have had a bloody crap day

[marq]

I broke down in the truck today and had to be lifted home.Seems like the rotor arm condenser and points are all shot.The rotor had a big crack in it which we think caused it to track and bugger everything else.Now no small bones to you lot but chevy parts here dont come up in every car spares place so i will travel a bit tomorrow to get em.Anyone got any suggestions as to what may have caused this?and any idea on a points gap for a chevy as i have no dwell meter ,infact tell me a dwell angle too just incase the books i have all differ in opinion but i have a delco dizzy........Marq

[oldandkrusty]

Marq, if memory serves the dwell angle is 28 - 32 degrees and to get you on the road quick, just use a paper matchstick to set your points. The fact that I remember this and not what the actual measurement in thousandths should tell you something about either my age or my memory, or both. Try it, it works as the matchstick is the approximate measurement you need. When you find out the actual measurement latter you can set the points more acurately. Good luck!

[BELLM]

What Chev engine? If its a V8 I beleive around .015-.016 with 28-32 degrees dwell.

[marq]

It's a 350 ci V8 a 1975 truck engine......Marq

[A32Flathead]

[ QUOTE ]
Now no small bones to you lot but chevy parts here dont come up in every car spares place so i will travel a bit tomorrow to get em.

[/ QUOTE ]

Do you use A to Z on St Albans Road in Watford? Or Watford Motor Accessories...I can't remember what its called this week...seems to have a different name each time I go past!

Sucks getting US bits back in the UK. Theres also a place in Perivale, round the back of HOOVER building on the A40 that does US parts from stock. But can't remember the name offhand.

Is Real Steel still at West Drayton, near Heathrow? They should have that all on the shelf too.

Good luck with your hunt tomorrow.

Dave

[choprods]

Thats weird Marq- a '75 shouda had an HEI ignition instead of the points......did they install an external Ballast resistor [in line] from the hot/POSITIVE wire of ign sw to coil?

[fab32]

.016-.018 should put you right in the ball park. A matchbook cover also works for a quick "on the road" gauge.

Frank

[fab32]

I'm sure this doesn't need to be mentioned, but make sure the points rubbing block is on the high point of the distributer cam when you make the setting.

Frank

[porknbeaner]

Friend Marq
They just wear out man. Don't sweat it.
The match stick is good advice, I always used the cover but either will work.
You've already got good info on the dwell angle and the actual measurement in thousandths.
Now send me your addy. I'm pulling the points out of my dizzy and switching to a petronix unit. My points and condensor are still good and will make you good spares.
Remember the rule of the road is if you're gonna run points keep a spare set in the Jockey Box. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
OH BTW never travel without a good used dollar bill, the most perfect thing to clean the points in a pinch. I can probably round up one of those also. I know that you probably don't have one and a quid probably won't do the job.

[marq]

No a quid wont do the job as it only comes in wide coin format now,Fucking europe i hate it i'll pm ya anything will help .As for a-z yes it is now bob harmon racing and i will get there tomorrow.The distributor was HEI but it was ugly so i changed it now do i need a ballast resistor for a normal coil set-up i cannot ever remember a ballast resistor on just a normal coil this thing is not a power coil just standard....Advice please ..........marq

[Upchuck]

if you can't get the right ballast resistor maybe you can get the single strand resistor wire that runs to the coil?

[plan9]

[ QUOTE ]
Fucking europe i hate it

[/ QUOTE ]

id imagine thats why some of my predecessors jumped across the pond.

europe is cool if your thing is cafe's, THE_FUCKING_FRENCH, art, and history. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[marq]

Ok where exactly does the ballst resistor go? does it go inline to the points or inline to the coil ?i'm real confused in other words does it go on the + or - side?.....Marq

[jerry]

the ballast goes between the power source and the coil.

shoulda stayed in phx! we gots parts here!

i can showyou how to do a simple conversion with an accel and an hei unit if you need. pm me your addy and i can send you one already made. gat rid of the pointsand look like you're running an old dual point!


jerry

jerry

[Bruce Lancaster]

Marq, I assume you have a Delco window distributor. If so, there is a traditional hot rod adjustment technique that requires NO tools other than something to rotate the point adjuster screw. The points are designed in such a way that you can just screwemin and start the thing--they have been close enough to run in all cases I have ever encountered. Let engine idle while tightening adjustment--run it in slowly until the engine is stumbling badly and on the verge of stalling out. Now screw it OUT exactly one turn and back IN exactly one half turn. The pitch of the screw is such that one half turn from dead is verydamnclose on gap and dwell. The out&in technique is just so you are tightening against the spring, a perhaps unnecessary detail--many just screw it out 1/2 turn with perfectly fine results.

[Scotch]

With a ballast resistor in line between the firewall power wire (keyed) coming fronm the ignition and the distributor, you should see about 9V power on the back-side of the ceramic ballast resistor. This power is reduced because the points can't take much more without premature wear. Even with the proper voltage, points still wear and require adjustment about twice a year on a daily driver. At the time of adjustment, it's recommended you also clean the cap and rotor to eliminate the inevitable tracking between the rotor and the cap tower contacts. These surfaces can be cleaned with contact cleaner or wiped down with carb cleaner on a rag. A gentle brushing with mild sandapaper just to clean these surfaces will help ensure a good connection. Once the cap and rotor are cleaned up, I like to spray a light coat of WD40 or similar inside the cap and wipe the contacts clean. This keeps moisture from forming under the cap which can lead to ignition misfire and crossfiring under the cap.

Or,

You can drop in an HEI, (either a new unit from any GM dealer for $100, a rebuilt unit with a warranty from any parts store, or even a low-mileage used unit for squat at the junkyard), wire it in (making sure you see 12V at the connection to the same firewall ignition wire we talked about earlier...) and make sure you've got the right (resistor) wires and plugs (maybe a new set wouldn't hurt?), and you'll not have to worry about dwell, gap, or even a coil or coil wire again (it's all integral in the HEI). The larger cap helps prevent misfire (by spreading the contacts out further) and the larger-dimameter cap needs more clearance. I'm thinking possibly firewall clearance and the need for a small-diameter cap may have been the reason your '75-era Chevy motor (which should have facotry HEI in it already) has been equipped with a higher-maintenance old-school points distributor and external coil. I'd recommend a step up to electronic ignition with your existing distributor by using a conversion kit from PerTronix or Mallory or anyone else you have access to over there. These kits work great when installed correctly (it's easy if you've ever turned a wrench before- just follow the instructions), and you'll have the small-cap you may need with the maintenance-free joy of electronics- and the fatter spark these ignitions produce will help your motor start easier and run better. They simply have more zap at the lower rpm ranges daily drivers most-commonly see. You could see a gain in fuel economy and feel better (crisper) acceleration and throttle response. It's truly a good move.

There is no reason on the planet your small-block Chevy should not be the most-reliable, powerful, maintenance-free, easy-to-find-parts-for engine you will ever have the chance to own in your lifetime. The fact you're having problems at all is what prompted me to scribble so much. There's simply no excuse for it. You should be bragging about this outstanding Amercican V-8 engine instead of it kicking your ass.

Scotch~!

[Flat Ernie]

Yeah, but did you get my package yet? Maybe that will make your day a bit brighter!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif