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CptStickfigure
09-09-2004, 04:58 PM
The short version here is that my car won't start. The engine ran before I messed with it, but it's old and was poorly maintained, so something may have just caught up with me. I've been doing a lot of electrical work (12 volt conversion and a complete rewiring), so I'm guessing that's where the problem is, but I'm running out of ideas.

Since ignition questions seem fairly common, I wonder if we could turn this into a sort of checklist of things to look for, easiest/most likely solutions first. If you've had starting trouble before, how about giving us your symptoms and solution.

On to the specifics. This is on a splash oiled Chevy 235 with a stock Rochester BC carb if it makes a difference.

Symptoms:
The engine cranks, but never really fires. If I really lean on it with the air cleaner off, it'll sort of pop and spit back through the carb, and maybe give me a little backfire or smoke.

Electrical:
-I installed a new generic ignition switch to cut the separate starter button and ignition switch out of the equation.
-Currently wired without gauges, so that shouldn't be an issue
-Replaced and gapped points and spark plugs
-Using an internally resisted 12v coil, so no external ballast resistor
-Voltmeter shows 12 volts at the battery
-Ohmmeter shows a good ignition circuit
-I've got power to the coil
-I've got sparks across the point gap
-Coil/Plug spark seems weak

Fuel:
-Put fuel in the tank (it was empty on the first try)
-Poured a little gas down the carb throat
-Gave it a few shots of carb cleaner
-Monkeyed with idle speed screw (back and forth until I got consistent promising results)

At this point I'm guessing grounding, timing, compression, or bad distributor, but I not sure what I'm looking for.

Unkl Ian
09-09-2004, 05:09 PM
If the coil is wired backwards,you will get a weaker spark.


Check the points.Do they actually open and close?
I had a Genius claim he could set points by eye.
And they were actually pretty close,when they were on the bottom of the cam. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Trouble was,they never closed. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Id the condenser attatched properly ?

CptStickfigure
09-09-2004, 05:32 PM
[ QUOTE ]
If the coil is wired backwards,you will get a weaker spark.

[/ QUOTE ]

First thing I checked.
It's wired properly.

[ QUOTE ]
Check the points.Do they actually open and close?

[/ QUOTE ]

They do now.
I was getting NO spark for a while because my open gap was right but they weren't closing all the way. I didn't even think of it until my landlord asked me the same question.

[ QUOTE ]
Id the condenser attatched properly ?

[/ QUOTE ]

As far as I know.
Hard to describe, but from inside out I've got nut, washer/plate, condenser wire, edge of distributor.

I'll compare it to the shop manual when I head out to work on it, but it looked right.

CptStickfigure
09-17-2004, 04:50 PM
Just a followup in case anybody does a search.
Timing and carburetion were both a little off,
but the real problem was that the center contact on the distributor cap (the one that touches the rotor) was basically cracked in half.