Conduit Seat, Episode 3 "The Folding Menace"

[Mike Paul]

I messed around in the shop this evening and fab'd up another seat. This ones for the Mrs., and it folds to let the rugrats in back. I still have a bunch of finish work(grinding sharp edges,welding,etc.)to do but you get the idea.

Next week, the back seat!!!

Enjoy!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/MP31A/Picture033.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/MP31A/Picture034.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/MP31A/Picture035.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/MP31A/Picture036.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/MP31A/Picture037.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/MP31A/Picture038.jpg

Just look how happy they are to have a place to sit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/MP31A/Picture028.jpg

Just right
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/MP31A/Picture031.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/MP31A/Picture032.jpg

[Special Ed GT]

Neat - how'd you make the bends?

[PEDDRO]

Check the smile on that kid's face! Good to see.

Gonna cut some foam cushioning? I think Skipstich did a quick tech in Rev mag on making up your own seat base profile.

[Max Gearhead]

Nice work Mike!
Max

[QQMOON]

good on ya

[burndup]

MMMM squeezytits...




*Oh..* Hey, those seats rock! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[manyolcars]

Conduit is very flimsy and has no strength. Flake board is crap and has very little strength. These are nice for mockup but I sure hope you aren't going to subject yourself and your family to such danger by actually using these while driving. Imagine what will happen if you press on the brake hard! Better yet, grab the steering wheel and pretend to panic stop. Do it now, dont wait for it to happen on the road. Flake board crumbles, conduit bends way too easy.

[dvlscoupe]

I'm kinda with manyolcars on this. I'm making some seats too and thought about using conduit as a jig for the sheetmetal forming but I also think if it's braced up with some ribs the conduit could be strong enough...but it would definitly need those ribs!

[oldandkrusty]

I really like the simple design of your seats. However, I think I am going to have to agree with manyolcars that the frame should be constructed from a stronger more durable material. Just my take and not a real criticism of your work. One thing I did notice that, perhaps, could use some review is the passenger seat braces; the triangular pieces that go from the seat bottom to the seat back. My experience with the type of seat construction (British sporty-car seats in an Anglia) leads me to say without hesitation-DON'T DO IT! Everytime your wife, or anyone else, gets in the passenger seat they will be scraping their hip and fanny over that triangular piece. It is very annoying plus it hurts! I think that if you put a radius on that piece you will avoid putting some black and blue marks on the people you love. Just a thought and not a criticism or putdown. Plese keep the construction shots coming-I love them.

[46stude]

[ QUOTE ]
Flake board is crap and has very little strength.

[/ QUOTE ]

Might go w/ ya on the conduit being a little light, but OSB (or flake board) is plenty strong enuff for a seat. Its used for flooring, roofing, & exterior walls in new home construction all over down here. And if it can pass the hurricane requirements from the insurance companies, then it oughtta hold up to a person sitting on it just fine.

[Dan]

cool - machined from the same material as your carb spacers! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif How do you plan on attaching the wood to the seat frames?

[cosmo]

I have been following this with some interest: you see, my car has "conduit" seats from the factory. They are also the MOST comfy seats EVER.
So I took some pics:

[Django]

I have no idea on whether or not the conduit is strong enough, but on the passenger seat, do you plan on putting a pin release for something to hold the seat in the locked position while driving?

[cosmo]

That was an overview of the back seat, which is substantially the same as the front seat. Here is a side view:

[cosmo]

Note the bends in the frame, esp. on the seat back (to the right in pic.). This is to allow movement WITHOUT your body hitting the frame, which would hurt. The lower frame curves so that you can be suspended above the body structure. Now, for a pic of the underside, showing the "rubber bands" which support your weight, and, by doubling, are adjustable. This also show just how simple the upholstery is as well.

[cosmo]

Yup, the upholstery is simply a muslin backing, with about a 1/4 inch of padding, then the covering, stitched for pattern. Hog rings secure it to the outer frame along the sides. The upper and lower covers are NOT connected, which allows even fat bastards to sit comfortably without the weight pulling on the seat back. And, truly, no factory seat covers are connected lower to upper.
Now, a closeup of those "rubber bands"...

[cosmo]

And the best part: these seats weigh much less than your will after you add foam and upholstery.
Open cell foam, if noone has told you, will "sack out" once you sit on it, which leads quickly to feeling like you are sitting on the board that supports the foam. Closed cell foam does not do this (which is why good custom seats are made from this, see Corbin seats. (http://www.corbin.com)), but it is hard to source. It is also quite heavy, motorcycle seats weigh more than my car's bench seat!!
Folding front seats could be easily made by making the back separate and curving the side pipe to match the lower's side, hinging it about 1/3 from the rear, thus eliminating the possibility of hitting it when you get in.
Lastly, this design allows for maximum interior space because the upholstery is only about 1/4 inch thick, the seat with "rubber bands" (easily available from many suppliers, BTW), measures only about 1/2 inch thick. So, instead of about four inches of foam, 1/4 inch of board and 1/4 inch of upholstery, you have about four more inches of interior space.
Takes more bending, and more head-scratching, but you could end up with very comfy seats AND more space inside your interior as well. Not so bad, no??
Cosmo

[Rand Man]

Cosmo,
Your seats do have a tube frame but they "aint" made of electrical conduit. Conduit should never be used as a structural member. Look for a local steel supply company. They will usually sell you a twenty-foot stick of mild steel, seamless tubing for about the same cost as the electrical conduit from a hardware store.

[cosmo]

And you are, of course, correct. I forgot to mention the tube size, which is 22mm OD x 1.5mm wall seamed tubing. Or, about .875" OD x .075" wall.
And, conduit is always galvanised, welding fumes of which are NOT good for you.
Cosmo

[james]

Rand- I want to know where you get steel. Around here 3/4" sched 40 is $1.50 so a foot. Conduit is about that for 10 feet.

[Mike Paul]

I thought conduit may be a little lightduty but I have a 3/4 conduit bender and thought "what the hey" I'll give it a try. If I could come up with a way to bend 3/4 or 1" DOM I will scratch the conduit idea and use them for patterns. I only have abouy $15 into the anyway.

Thanks for the input
.....Mike