Chassis & suspension set up...more questions

[Tinbender]

Finally got caught up on everyone else's projects, and got to spend a little time on my own. I pulled the 33 off the back burner. It looks like I'll be able to start making some progress again.
I'm mocking up the front end, and have some questions.
I'm running a 36 axle and bones, suicided. The spring & mount are going to be hidden in the grill shell, and the spring will be attached to the bones.

First question. Anyone have a measurement from the top of the spring to the bottom of the eyes, under load on a similar set up?

[Tinbender]

Here,s another angle.
I'm going to use cowl steering. Should my link from the pitman arm to the steering arm be parallel to the bones?

[Tinbender]

I'm using econoline spindles. I need to put the rod end thru the top of the steering arm. Whats the best / easiest way to deal with the tapered hole? Should I weld it up and have it re-drilled from the top, or drill it out, and have a tapered sleeve made?
Also, if anyone sees anything wrong with this set up, feel free to let me know...this is my first suicide suspension.

[Tinbender]

I'm also going to have to shorten the grille. I think I have a handle on how I'll do it, but I welcome sugestions from anyone who's done it.
Ground level is at the bottom of the chassis jig.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I can only tell you how I would do those things. First off I would mount the rear ends of the split 'bones so that the 'bones are level when the car is at ride height. I would alter the length of the 'bones so the arc of travel at the left front is as close as possible to the arc of travel of the forward end of the drag link. Also, keep the drag link level. That means mount the steering gear first then adjust the length of the 'bones to suit. My motive in doing this would be to eliminate as much bump-steer as possible. If mounting the 'bones level means you don't end up with the six or so degrees caster that's required, I'd re-shape the ends of the axle (from the perches out) to achieve that amount of caster.

I can't answer the question about the eyes in the steering arms without more info. Can you buy a reamer with the same taper as your tie rod ends ? You might just have to ream the eyes some to accept the rod ends you've chosen. You may have to make a tapered bushing to fill the gap if the tie rod end taper is too small for the reamed hole. I'll be doing this on my '36 spindle/Chev tie rod connection.

I would build a suicide spring perch that can be adjusted for height (series of holes) like the old sprint car and supermods ran back when they used transverse springs. You can always go back and remodel it after the car has been run and the spring has found the height it wants to be at.

One more thing...I like to weld a bushing through the wishbone's oval tube for the shackle mount. I use a shackle mount with a bolt that goes through that bushing so I can have an infinite adjustment in the front to back angle of the spring. No bind in the spring that way.

[Tinbender]

Thanks SJ. My plan was to mount the spring to the bones with a bracket that would allow for hight adjustment. I'll have to re-think that, and see if I can incorporate some spring angle adjustment. I have to keep the spring perch as small as possible to clear the radiator and grille shell. The tie rod also has to go thru the shell.
I'm not sure I'm clear on the draglink. The front mounts directly above where the axle and bone join. Should I extend the other end of the bone, so that the link is the same length as the bone? How critical is this? Right now the bones end about 6" in front of where the pitman arm will be.
The problem with the steering arm is that the taper is upside down. The rod end used to come up from the bottom, but I need it to mount on the top, to clear the bone. I either have to weld it up, and re-ream, or drill out the hole and make a tapered bushing. I'm sure my machinist can do either, I just wondered which would be the best way.

[Killer]

Tin.

Every car/front end/engine... blah blah blah is gonna be different.

Your best bet is to set the front end up with the wheels/tires you plan to run. Take the spring pack apart and put only the main leaf in. Make a spacer block the thickness of the spring pack and put it on top of the main leaf...

Make your suicide mount where it needs to be... Tack everything together REALLY good. Put all the leafs back in the pack, put the motor and trans back in and put it on the ground.

Now you can check it out and make sure it looks good to you. If it looks good, take everything back apart and weld er up. If not, it's easier to fix when it's only tacked together!

There's really no easier way to do it.

[enjenjo]

[ QUOTE ]

The problem with the steering arm is that the taper is upside down. The rod end used to come up from the bottom, but I need it to mount on the top, to clear the bone. I either have to weld it up, and re-ream, or drill out the hole and make a tapered bushing. I'm sure my machinist can do either, I just wondered which would be the best way.

[/ QUOTE ]

You can retaper it from the top,half way through, and use it that way no problem. Some of the aftermarket pitman arms come that way.

[Tinbender]

Thanks guys! I guess it's time to just build this thing http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[willowbilly3]

I agree that the bones and drag link need to be parelell to the ground and each other. For looks and avoidance of bump steer. I am using the whole econoline axle and steering box. Not sure on the cowl steer yet but I want to. I am going to just cut the end off the steering arm, flip it over and weld it back on. Now some guys poo-poo welding on steering parts but if it is done right and in a professional manner there should be no problems.
If you haven't read the tech on cowl steering yet I would recomend doing so.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

"I'm not sure I'm clear on the draglink. The front mounts directly above where the axle and bone join. Should I extend the other end of the bone, so that the link is the same length as the bone? How critical is this? Right now the bones end about 6" in front of where the pitman arm will be."

That should be fine. 5" would be better, 4" would be better than 5", etc. I attempt to make the drag link's forward end travel in the same arc as the left front spindle.

[Tinbender]

Cool, thanks! I'm heading off for some minor surgery today. I'll be out of the shop for a few weeks. (and offthe HAMB for a few days) I'll post some pictures, and more questions I'm sure in a few weeks.

[Rand Man]

Those Econoline spindles look a lot like '49 F1 Ford Pickup spindles except the steering arm comes in from the top, with a ball and socket type connection. I have a '36 front axle for my A project. I'm thinking of using the spindles, brakes and steering from the old '49 farm truck. If the king pins are the same, why not. I suspect the "Econoline" suspension was a carry-over from the pre-twin-I-beam Ford truck. Are there any old Ford mechanics or parts counter guys out there who might know for sure.