SamIyam
09-04-2004, 04:13 PM
I've had to write this description over a couple of nights... palms sweat, feel kinda light headed, write a little and then take a break. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Anyway, I was wondering if it says too much... just right, or not enogh. You guys are like brothers, and you were there watching this thing get built, so you know just as much about it as anybody. Also, know how many characters you can put in an auction? Is my leagalease ok? The last thing I want to do is get burned on something I need the money from. Anyone else want to add anything? Please no derogetory comments, as it's the shits that this thing has to get sold. I also don't wanna hear any "sorry ya gotta sell it" comments. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
1923 Ford Hot Rod CRA Track Roadster not a Rat
Up for auction is a 1923 Ford Model T track styled roadster. The body started out as a 1923 Ford Model T coupe. I found the body in the back of a dilapidated Ford Ranchero at Taluca Lake Bob’s Big Boy in the summer of 2000 the night before the LA Roadster’s show, and bought it there on the spot. (two doors, two ¼ panels and cowl sheet metal) Shortly thereafter I acquired an old T bucket frame that was built in a local welding shop in 1969. A teacher friend of mine taught the class, and the student who built the frame did not have the wherewithal to finish the project, so the frame sat until I got it from him. This car is patterned after the CRA “Roaring Roadsters” of the 50’s… a look that is characterized by the stance, wheel placement, and look and feel of the car. So with that in mind I tried to get the nose as close to the cowl as possible, without having to notch the firewall for engine clearance. This was achieved by placing the (brand new, with new hoses) radiator behind the 8” Z’d custom made front cross member and in turn getting the engine mounted four blade fan 1” away from the radiator. Using a short Chevy water pump on the motor, enabled me to get the look I was after. The front cross member kick-up, as well as the entire frame itself was constructed out of 1 ½” x 3” .125 wall thickness square tubing. Welded into the kick-up are two machined bungs that mount the un-bent F-1 shock mounts. These bungs prevent the square tubing from collapsing. Front shocks are vintage NOS Gabriel hooded shocks that mount to the ’33 Ford axle with reinforced shock mounts. The steering box is a Dodge D-100 van box. The front brakes are ’56 Ford F-100 self energizing Bendix brakes mounted to ’39 “round” spindles. The front king pins and wheel bearings are new, as well as the brake drums and linings. In addition, all brake and fuel lines are held onto the frame with aircraft style ADEL clamps, evenly spaced, and held in place with ¼” -20 fasteners that thread directly into the frame. All brake hoses were new when installed, as well as all brake hard lines. The 350 Chevy engine (more on this later) was mounted in the chassis using a genuine Hurst motor mount that was manufactured before the Big Block Chevy… the tell tale signs are in the fact that this “front mount” Hurst engine mount lacks the extra holes for the Big Block. The engine is mated to a Wedge Engineering 4130 scatter shield. Cast into this scatter shield that encases the clutch and flywheel 360 degrees is: “Wedge Engineering Co. 4130 ’55-’59 Corv Pass NHRA approved”. This leads me to believe that this bell housing/scatter shield was cast in 1959 and is probably no longer NHRA approved. Attached to the scatter shield is a Saginaw 4 speed manual transmission with Hurst 4 speed shifter. Next in line is the balanced ($200 new) drive shaft with new u-joints. The rear end is a 9” Ford that measures 61 ¼” wide, flange to flange, with 3.08:1 gears and a posi carrier. The transmission is held in place with a speedway saddle mount that is welded into the frame rails. The transmission can be removed with the engine still in place by taking out the transmission tunnel. The rear end is located with ’36 Ford wishbones (thanks Jay) that still function as a wishbone via a Model A front wishbone yoke and ¾” heim joint. A mount is securely welded and braced to the trans cross member. This style of rear end location is superior to a ladder bar set up (for street car) because it locates the rear end, allows it to rotate torsionally and cycle vertically without ANY binding. Not to mention it provides awesome traction to the rear tires. In addition, this system does not require a pan-hard bar or track locater because it is triangulated. The rear spring is a ’48 Ford front spring that is supported by the original ’36 Ford wishbone spring mounts. The front wheels are desirable 1940 Ford (a one year only wheel) 4” wheels with Firestone 5.00 x 16” Deluxe Champion tires. The rear wheels are later 40’s Ford 4 ½”ers with 7.00 x 16” Firestone deluxe champion tires. The wheels were sandblasted, checked for straightness and painted white when the car was first built.
The engine… ah, the engine… despite what was written in Rod & Custom magazine, this engine is a rebuilt 350 small block Chevy that is disguised to look like a 60’s 283… so well that it fooled a friend of mine that restores Corvettes. The engine was built using a 350 Chevy block (thanks Steve). It has been bored .030 and has Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons, cast rings, a Crane Cam, resized rods, new rod bolts, .010-.010 cast crank, Cloyes True Roller timing chain, The heads are 461 castings with stainless valves (1.94 1.50) and springs that match the cam, the installed height on the springs have been checked and hardened seats installed. In addition, the bowls have been blended and the intake valve un-shrouded (port work that makes a big difference in flow at low lift numbers). The rocker arms are long slot Summit brand rockers and push rods are Comp Cams units. The heads also have screw in studs. Great pains were taken to disguise this motor as a 283. The casting numbers were ground off and a 283 block was sacrificed in order to get the correct (for a 283) casting number in the block. The numbers were cut out and machined down… and then JB welded in place of the 350’s numbers. Up front the tell tale 283 “rib” was ground into the block near the stamped number ID pad. All the tin from a 283 was installed on the motor as well as the harmonic balancer and reconditioned water pump (a stock 283 one w/o the boss on the top) The valve covers are very early chrome-ribbed units. The ignition system consists of a Petronix kit in a reconditioned stock distributor and an MSD 6A box hidden under the dash. An MSD Blaster coil was also used and the distributor was set up on a Sun distributor machine to have the correct curve and advance for this motor. The intake… ah, the intake… the intake manifold was hand built by myself and two very good friends of mine. The basis for this very trick yet nostalgic manifold was a Weiand X-celerator single plane intake manifold. I then designed, and had machined on a CNC mill (thanks Phil), an aluminum plate that mounts two BOP Rochester 2G carburetors that flow 381cfm apiece… that’s 762 cfm, about right for a healthy 350. The manifold was hand ported inside and on the top to mount the plate. The plate was then welded onto the manifold (thanks Steve). After welding, all welds were ground down and the entire manifold was sand blasted to give it an “as cast” look. The carburetors were re-jetted, and the power valve springs massaged. This is an extremely well operating induction system. The car starts on the first bump of the starter, gets 19mpg on the freeway if you drive it at 80mph and has no off-idle flat spots. You can feel the linkage grab the second carburetor at half throttle with your foot… but the transition is smooth and you do not feel it “tip in”. In addition having EXCELLENT street manners, this car hauls a** at the drags. During Rod & Custom Magazines’ Ego-Rama competition where this car placed 3rd overall out of 6 cars that were chosen by the readers to participate, the car ran a 13.07 at 106mph at the drags. (best 60 foot time was 1.90 w/o hammering it off the line) That’s pretty impressive considering the car has a 4 speed and rear tires that are only 5 ½” wide. The “altitude corrected” time for the temp and altitude there that day is down in the 12.70’s.
The body is a 1923 Ford Model T coupe. The body panels were acid dipped and primed using DP90 primer. The 1” round tube that forms the “very Ford roadster looking” belt line was built using a home made form. The floor structure was made using 1/8” steel angle and ¾” plywood (good insulator from heat and noise). The rest of the bodies’ framework is made up of 1” square tubing and 16ga steel. There is a 1 ¾” .120 wall “hoop” at the firewall that supports the steering shaft and swing pedals. The rear deck lid was hand made and has a natural crown to it. It latches and is keyed. The seats are 914 Porsche seats with the ungodly headrests cut off. The steering wheel is a white vinyl wheel. The only gauges are vintage Stewart Warner water temp and oil pressure gauges… no speedometer or tach… ya drive this thing by the seat of your pants. I also installed three-point seat belts (the local fire chief here in town said “It’ll help us find the body”). The windshield posts are ’23 Ford roadster posts that have been chopped 8” or so. The nice thing about the cockpit of this car is that it is very roomy. I am 5’11” tall and weigh 210 pounds, and designed this car to fit me. If you are shorter, the seats will move forward as they are mounted on their original Porsche seat tracks. Also, my friend Tim who is 6’5” tall has driven this car, albeit looking over the windshield and his legs scrunched up a tad. Shoulder room is also not a problem, I am broad shouldered and if I am in the car with another adult, there is usually six to eight inches between us. Another benefit to the way this car is set up is that the body sits on top of the frame and is not channeled. This allows you to sit IN the car and not ON it. Wind noise is comparable to my friend’s ’32 Ford roadster at 75mph. I have had the car up to 125mph and it's solid (depends on the road you're on). This car also rides nice for as light as it is. Naturally, the bias ply tires let it “ride the ruts”, but if a guy was concerned about that, and not the vintage looks of this car, he could update to Coker’s new radial tires that look similar to bias ply’s. The car is also very nimble and well balanced, it does not bottom out under normal driving conditions, and you can drive it over speed bumps and up driveways as fast as you’d like. In addition the above mentioned items, the car has Guide headlights and a custom fabricated track nose that was patterned after the Spalding brother’s #43 Track T and Barney Navvaro’s T. The grille was fabricated out of a ’53 Chevy pickup cab roof, and a custom aluminum insert was made by me. This car has also been in countless magazines such as Rod&Custom March 2002 pg. 60, Rod&Custom October 2002 pg. 86, Rod&Custom September2003 pg. 178, Rod&Custom April 2003 cover shot, pg. 40, 41, 46 and 54, Rod&Custom August 2003 “Build a hood for the Roach Rod” (Thanks to Steve at Industrial Chassis in Pheonix, AZ), Rod&Custom July 2003 pg. 110 “honorable mention”, Rod&Custom March 2003 pg. 130, The Premier issue of SHOP RAG magazine Summer 2002 pg. 13 &14, Car Culture Deluxe in the “Sam’s Motor Meltdown” article, several Goodguys Gazettes and was just recently in a little blurb about the Ego-Rama in Hot Rod Magazine. I would also like to thank the HAMB message board for their help in making my trip to the Ego-Rama competition a reality. The screen names of the people who had a direct impact (gas and beer money) on my trip are written on the dash.
TERMS OF SALE: A non refundable $1000 deposit to my Pay Pal account is due within 48 hours of the end of this auction. With the entire deposit due to me IN CASH within 7 days of the close of the auction. Buyer to arrange ALL shipping details and pay for ALL shipping charges. Overseas Buyers must somehow arrange the CASH payment to me within 7 days of the auction’s close. I will trailer this car to either LA or SanFrancisco to a dock/shipper/container for $2.00 per mile, paid IN FULL, for BOTH DIRECTIONS prior to leaving my house. In addition, payment for this vehicle must be made BEFORE it leaves my garage to be delivered in any way, shape or form. When you bid on this item, you are entering a legal and binding contract and agree to pay according to the above terms and conditions. Don’t bid if you ain’t got the CASH.
If you are interested in this vehicle and have any further questions or would like to come by to look at it, or call me to ask questions, feel free to send me an e-mail through e-bay. No tire kickers or lookie-loos wanting advice or knowledge about personal projects please.
Anyway, I was wondering if it says too much... just right, or not enogh. You guys are like brothers, and you were there watching this thing get built, so you know just as much about it as anybody. Also, know how many characters you can put in an auction? Is my leagalease ok? The last thing I want to do is get burned on something I need the money from. Anyone else want to add anything? Please no derogetory comments, as it's the shits that this thing has to get sold. I also don't wanna hear any "sorry ya gotta sell it" comments. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
1923 Ford Hot Rod CRA Track Roadster not a Rat
Up for auction is a 1923 Ford Model T track styled roadster. The body started out as a 1923 Ford Model T coupe. I found the body in the back of a dilapidated Ford Ranchero at Taluca Lake Bob’s Big Boy in the summer of 2000 the night before the LA Roadster’s show, and bought it there on the spot. (two doors, two ¼ panels and cowl sheet metal) Shortly thereafter I acquired an old T bucket frame that was built in a local welding shop in 1969. A teacher friend of mine taught the class, and the student who built the frame did not have the wherewithal to finish the project, so the frame sat until I got it from him. This car is patterned after the CRA “Roaring Roadsters” of the 50’s… a look that is characterized by the stance, wheel placement, and look and feel of the car. So with that in mind I tried to get the nose as close to the cowl as possible, without having to notch the firewall for engine clearance. This was achieved by placing the (brand new, with new hoses) radiator behind the 8” Z’d custom made front cross member and in turn getting the engine mounted four blade fan 1” away from the radiator. Using a short Chevy water pump on the motor, enabled me to get the look I was after. The front cross member kick-up, as well as the entire frame itself was constructed out of 1 ½” x 3” .125 wall thickness square tubing. Welded into the kick-up are two machined bungs that mount the un-bent F-1 shock mounts. These bungs prevent the square tubing from collapsing. Front shocks are vintage NOS Gabriel hooded shocks that mount to the ’33 Ford axle with reinforced shock mounts. The steering box is a Dodge D-100 van box. The front brakes are ’56 Ford F-100 self energizing Bendix brakes mounted to ’39 “round” spindles. The front king pins and wheel bearings are new, as well as the brake drums and linings. In addition, all brake and fuel lines are held onto the frame with aircraft style ADEL clamps, evenly spaced, and held in place with ¼” -20 fasteners that thread directly into the frame. All brake hoses were new when installed, as well as all brake hard lines. The 350 Chevy engine (more on this later) was mounted in the chassis using a genuine Hurst motor mount that was manufactured before the Big Block Chevy… the tell tale signs are in the fact that this “front mount” Hurst engine mount lacks the extra holes for the Big Block. The engine is mated to a Wedge Engineering 4130 scatter shield. Cast into this scatter shield that encases the clutch and flywheel 360 degrees is: “Wedge Engineering Co. 4130 ’55-’59 Corv Pass NHRA approved”. This leads me to believe that this bell housing/scatter shield was cast in 1959 and is probably no longer NHRA approved. Attached to the scatter shield is a Saginaw 4 speed manual transmission with Hurst 4 speed shifter. Next in line is the balanced ($200 new) drive shaft with new u-joints. The rear end is a 9” Ford that measures 61 ¼” wide, flange to flange, with 3.08:1 gears and a posi carrier. The transmission is held in place with a speedway saddle mount that is welded into the frame rails. The transmission can be removed with the engine still in place by taking out the transmission tunnel. The rear end is located with ’36 Ford wishbones (thanks Jay) that still function as a wishbone via a Model A front wishbone yoke and ¾” heim joint. A mount is securely welded and braced to the trans cross member. This style of rear end location is superior to a ladder bar set up (for street car) because it locates the rear end, allows it to rotate torsionally and cycle vertically without ANY binding. Not to mention it provides awesome traction to the rear tires. In addition, this system does not require a pan-hard bar or track locater because it is triangulated. The rear spring is a ’48 Ford front spring that is supported by the original ’36 Ford wishbone spring mounts. The front wheels are desirable 1940 Ford (a one year only wheel) 4” wheels with Firestone 5.00 x 16” Deluxe Champion tires. The rear wheels are later 40’s Ford 4 ½”ers with 7.00 x 16” Firestone deluxe champion tires. The wheels were sandblasted, checked for straightness and painted white when the car was first built.
The engine… ah, the engine… despite what was written in Rod & Custom magazine, this engine is a rebuilt 350 small block Chevy that is disguised to look like a 60’s 283… so well that it fooled a friend of mine that restores Corvettes. The engine was built using a 350 Chevy block (thanks Steve). It has been bored .030 and has Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons, cast rings, a Crane Cam, resized rods, new rod bolts, .010-.010 cast crank, Cloyes True Roller timing chain, The heads are 461 castings with stainless valves (1.94 1.50) and springs that match the cam, the installed height on the springs have been checked and hardened seats installed. In addition, the bowls have been blended and the intake valve un-shrouded (port work that makes a big difference in flow at low lift numbers). The rocker arms are long slot Summit brand rockers and push rods are Comp Cams units. The heads also have screw in studs. Great pains were taken to disguise this motor as a 283. The casting numbers were ground off and a 283 block was sacrificed in order to get the correct (for a 283) casting number in the block. The numbers were cut out and machined down… and then JB welded in place of the 350’s numbers. Up front the tell tale 283 “rib” was ground into the block near the stamped number ID pad. All the tin from a 283 was installed on the motor as well as the harmonic balancer and reconditioned water pump (a stock 283 one w/o the boss on the top) The valve covers are very early chrome-ribbed units. The ignition system consists of a Petronix kit in a reconditioned stock distributor and an MSD 6A box hidden under the dash. An MSD Blaster coil was also used and the distributor was set up on a Sun distributor machine to have the correct curve and advance for this motor. The intake… ah, the intake… the intake manifold was hand built by myself and two very good friends of mine. The basis for this very trick yet nostalgic manifold was a Weiand X-celerator single plane intake manifold. I then designed, and had machined on a CNC mill (thanks Phil), an aluminum plate that mounts two BOP Rochester 2G carburetors that flow 381cfm apiece… that’s 762 cfm, about right for a healthy 350. The manifold was hand ported inside and on the top to mount the plate. The plate was then welded onto the manifold (thanks Steve). After welding, all welds were ground down and the entire manifold was sand blasted to give it an “as cast” look. The carburetors were re-jetted, and the power valve springs massaged. This is an extremely well operating induction system. The car starts on the first bump of the starter, gets 19mpg on the freeway if you drive it at 80mph and has no off-idle flat spots. You can feel the linkage grab the second carburetor at half throttle with your foot… but the transition is smooth and you do not feel it “tip in”. In addition having EXCELLENT street manners, this car hauls a** at the drags. During Rod & Custom Magazines’ Ego-Rama competition where this car placed 3rd overall out of 6 cars that were chosen by the readers to participate, the car ran a 13.07 at 106mph at the drags. (best 60 foot time was 1.90 w/o hammering it off the line) That’s pretty impressive considering the car has a 4 speed and rear tires that are only 5 ½” wide. The “altitude corrected” time for the temp and altitude there that day is down in the 12.70’s.
The body is a 1923 Ford Model T coupe. The body panels were acid dipped and primed using DP90 primer. The 1” round tube that forms the “very Ford roadster looking” belt line was built using a home made form. The floor structure was made using 1/8” steel angle and ¾” plywood (good insulator from heat and noise). The rest of the bodies’ framework is made up of 1” square tubing and 16ga steel. There is a 1 ¾” .120 wall “hoop” at the firewall that supports the steering shaft and swing pedals. The rear deck lid was hand made and has a natural crown to it. It latches and is keyed. The seats are 914 Porsche seats with the ungodly headrests cut off. The steering wheel is a white vinyl wheel. The only gauges are vintage Stewart Warner water temp and oil pressure gauges… no speedometer or tach… ya drive this thing by the seat of your pants. I also installed three-point seat belts (the local fire chief here in town said “It’ll help us find the body”). The windshield posts are ’23 Ford roadster posts that have been chopped 8” or so. The nice thing about the cockpit of this car is that it is very roomy. I am 5’11” tall and weigh 210 pounds, and designed this car to fit me. If you are shorter, the seats will move forward as they are mounted on their original Porsche seat tracks. Also, my friend Tim who is 6’5” tall has driven this car, albeit looking over the windshield and his legs scrunched up a tad. Shoulder room is also not a problem, I am broad shouldered and if I am in the car with another adult, there is usually six to eight inches between us. Another benefit to the way this car is set up is that the body sits on top of the frame and is not channeled. This allows you to sit IN the car and not ON it. Wind noise is comparable to my friend’s ’32 Ford roadster at 75mph. I have had the car up to 125mph and it's solid (depends on the road you're on). This car also rides nice for as light as it is. Naturally, the bias ply tires let it “ride the ruts”, but if a guy was concerned about that, and not the vintage looks of this car, he could update to Coker’s new radial tires that look similar to bias ply’s. The car is also very nimble and well balanced, it does not bottom out under normal driving conditions, and you can drive it over speed bumps and up driveways as fast as you’d like. In addition the above mentioned items, the car has Guide headlights and a custom fabricated track nose that was patterned after the Spalding brother’s #43 Track T and Barney Navvaro’s T. The grille was fabricated out of a ’53 Chevy pickup cab roof, and a custom aluminum insert was made by me. This car has also been in countless magazines such as Rod&Custom March 2002 pg. 60, Rod&Custom October 2002 pg. 86, Rod&Custom September2003 pg. 178, Rod&Custom April 2003 cover shot, pg. 40, 41, 46 and 54, Rod&Custom August 2003 “Build a hood for the Roach Rod” (Thanks to Steve at Industrial Chassis in Pheonix, AZ), Rod&Custom July 2003 pg. 110 “honorable mention”, Rod&Custom March 2003 pg. 130, The Premier issue of SHOP RAG magazine Summer 2002 pg. 13 &14, Car Culture Deluxe in the “Sam’s Motor Meltdown” article, several Goodguys Gazettes and was just recently in a little blurb about the Ego-Rama in Hot Rod Magazine. I would also like to thank the HAMB message board for their help in making my trip to the Ego-Rama competition a reality. The screen names of the people who had a direct impact (gas and beer money) on my trip are written on the dash.
TERMS OF SALE: A non refundable $1000 deposit to my Pay Pal account is due within 48 hours of the end of this auction. With the entire deposit due to me IN CASH within 7 days of the close of the auction. Buyer to arrange ALL shipping details and pay for ALL shipping charges. Overseas Buyers must somehow arrange the CASH payment to me within 7 days of the auction’s close. I will trailer this car to either LA or SanFrancisco to a dock/shipper/container for $2.00 per mile, paid IN FULL, for BOTH DIRECTIONS prior to leaving my house. In addition, payment for this vehicle must be made BEFORE it leaves my garage to be delivered in any way, shape or form. When you bid on this item, you are entering a legal and binding contract and agree to pay according to the above terms and conditions. Don’t bid if you ain’t got the CASH.
If you are interested in this vehicle and have any further questions or would like to come by to look at it, or call me to ask questions, feel free to send me an e-mail through e-bay. No tire kickers or lookie-loos wanting advice or knowledge about personal projects please.