electrical problems on my non hot rod 54 ford

[HonkyTonker]

I have a 54 Ford with a 239 Straight Six that has a alternator and external Voltage Regulator done by the previous owner 12V system. Make a long story short, this guy has wires all over the place . I just replaced the alt and it didn't match exactly. Now i'm stuck withing trying to rewire from the alt to regulator. the identifiers on the regulator don't match the alternator. Anyone have an easy no frills diagram/wireing schematic etc you can post?

This thing has a four post regulator which only 3 are being used. The alt has 4 post 1. battery 2. field 3. grd 4 no use. this guy has one wire from the - (neg) post of the coil connected to the old alternator. I've got a real mess on my hands and any help will be appreciated.

Neal0o
btlltw

[oldchevyseller]

ford alt? chevy ? what kind? regulator? give us some more info and go from there, i would trash it all and start again ,give us the details

[HonkyTonker]

[ QUOTE ]
ford alt? chevy ? what kind? regulator? give us some more info and go from there, i would trash it all and start again ,give us the details

[/ QUOTE ]

Well the alternator is FORD. I used a 68 Falcon 200 Straight Six alternator. Used the same for the regulator. The regulator i got matched perfectly. Think i will try and rewire tomorrow if i can find a reference. This is my only car so i'm kinda under the gun. shit I hate electrical problems lol..

Where "Should" the neg post on the coil go? He had it going to the alternator field terminal.

Thanks,
Neal0o

[4t64rd]

When's the last time it ran?

[Pist-n-Broke]

I don't have a scmatic but I can tell you how to wire it.Main batt term on alt goes to started relay batt terminal. Full time 12 volts. Wire should be at least 10 gauge. If you have a amp meter positive side to starter sylonoid neg to alt. terminal. Field wire goes direct to field terminal on reg. Ground terminal on alt goes to a bolt on the block for ground again use 10 gauge. Alt R terminal goes to regulater terminal #2. Terminals 3 and 4 on the reg both go to ign terminal on key switch. you can use a 14 gauge wires for them. That should get you back on the street.
The Wizzard

[HonkyTonker]

[ QUOTE ]
When's the last time it ran?

[/ QUOTE ]

Day before yesterday. I was messing with it because I replaced the alternator about 4 days ago. Though the battery went dead again. I hooked up my amp meter to it and found out that I had a short to grd. had about a half of an amp. isolated it to the alternator. found out that I had the field wire and battery wire connected together. Now that is fixed but after messin with the alternator wiring i can not get the car to stsrt now. turns over find just no fire. Think it has something to do with the
(-)neg coil wire that was connected to the field term.

Neal0o

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[Pist-n-Broke]

Origionaly that car was 6v positive ground. Whoever did the change over just used the same coil and left it wired the way it was. I also havn't read anything about a balast resister in your system. I'd almost bet the bigest problem you have is a burned out set of points, the coil may also be dead. If not it soon will be. My advice for what it's worth is to go get a standard 12 volt coil a stock 57 -64 Ford balast resister a fresh set of points and a condencer. You need to pick up power to the coil from a switched wire from the key full 12 volts. Hook it to one side of the balast. The other side to the pos. side of the coil along with a wire from the I terminal on the starter sylonoid. If you don't have a 4 pole sylonoid get one of them also. The I terminal gives 12 volts to the coil on start only and helps with cold starts.
The Wizzard

[manyolcars]

You can get rid of your problems now and your future problems by using a one wire GM alternator. One wire from alt to the battery and you are done. about $35, same as the cost of the steenkin regulator

[Rocky]

I agree with Manyoldcars........