battery drain!

[13horrorshow13]

ok fellas....to check for a batt draw I unhook the neg. cable and put a test light inbetween the post and clamp...light comes on. I pulled all the fuses and light is still on. so I pulled the alt. plug and the light went off.
now to be sure its marked "1" and "2" I have the # 1 looped to the batt. terminal on the alt. and the # 2 to a acc. hot.
is this correct? if so any suggestions? its a new alt.


thanks

[jalopy43]

I run a 60amp cutoff switch from the alt. to the batt. Just remember to flick it on when you start.I have the same setup. It is not a one wire,so it does not have a self energizing internal cutoff. Glenn

[oldchevyseller]

did this just??start happening
what amount of time does it take ? ford ?chevy? Disconnect the positive clamp on your battery but take care not to touch the body metal with the wrench when doing this.



Now connect an small light between the + terminal and the clamp. Put the clamp on a rag so it can't touch the sheet metal. If any drain is present the light will glow. Or you can check the amount of drain with an small anmeter

. Now start pulling the fuses in the fuse box one by one until the light goes off. This is the circuit in which the problem lies. Check your manual or the indications in the cover of the fuse box to see which systems are connected to that fuse.

The next steps depend on the systems Try disconnecting each one of the parts connected in the circuit. Again it's the same - when the light goes out you've found the problem.

[oldchevyseller]

one of the Diodes inside the Alternator could be shorted, causing the drain on the Battery, but the Alternator would still put out 12 Volts, and therefor pass the Voltage Output Test, however it could not put out full Current, and would fail the Current Load Test

[choprods]

some alternators have a diode already installed inside an some don't -you can get one that is on a plug that replaces your two wire plug [at your parts store].this allows the exciter wire to feed voltage into the alternator from the accy terminal of ign switch to make it charge-but does not allow the current to flow in the opposite direction which is whats happening, when you have such a drain.

[13horrorshow13]

its a chevy, and it started recently. I had the batt tested...good. I ran the car and disconnected the batt. it kept running under the alt. power...I cleaned terminals, and replaced the ground ( grounded to the block at the head)
and after the batt was checked it seemed ok for about 2 weeks or so. it usually dies overnight. so not sure exactly how long it takes! damn cars who wants a '60 el camino?!!

[oldchevyseller]

[ QUOTE ]
some alternators have a diode already installed inside an some don't -you can get one that is on a plug that replaces your two wire plug [at your parts store].this allows the exciter wire to feed voltage into the alternator from the accy terminal of ign switch to make it charge-but does not allow the current to flow in the opposite direction which is whats happening, when you have such a drain.

[/ QUOTE ]yeah i bet that is it ,napa carries the plug with the resistor to excite the fields and the diode all in a plug

[oldchevyseller]

here is everything and more you want to know

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

[chicken]

If you unplug the connector and the draw is gone,the internal voltage regulator is the culprit 99% of the time.One of the diodes in the diode trio assembly is possible but unlikely to cause draw on that style alternator,and the special harness with the diode built in is designed to keep the alternator from powering the car's ignition system,thus preventing the engine from shutting off,when the switch is turned off.I'd bet on the regulator.
Chicken

[willowbilly3]

I've had the internal regulater go tits and stay full fielded causing battery drain. You can't even mess around inside the delcos for what a recon one wire costs over the counter. I used to rebuild all my own but just the parts at Napa are about double of the cost of buying one ready to bolt on.

[13horrorshow13]

I traced the 2 wires coming out of the plug, and it turns out the #1 was looped to the batt. post on the alt. and the #2 was going to the acc. AND it was hooked to the coil! I switched the wires on the plug and ran a new wire to a acc hot on the fuse box. now with a test light it doesn't show a draw...I jump started it and let it run, but after letting it sit for a short time it was dead...I jumped it again and let it run awhile. guess I'll let it sit and check tomorrow morning. I also ran it again without the
batt. and the alt. was running the car. I guess since an alt. isn't designed to charge a batt but maintain the charge, a quick "sit and idle" didn't charge it enough for another start??

[Machinos]

[ QUOTE ]
I run a 60amp cutoff switch from the alt. to the batt. Just remember to flick it on when you start.I have the same setup. It is not a one wire,so it does not have a self energizing internal cutoff. Glenn

[/ QUOTE ]

I installed an early Chevy alternator with external voltage regulator and I couldn't figure out how to wire up the damn warning light/energizing thingy/whatever does it, so I've been popping the hood and just touching the wire to the positive battery terminal for charging. In other words, I need one of those switches... where did you get it? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[Jimv]

On my GM 3 wire alt I took he two wire on the plug & hooked them together, then ran them to a wire that becomes hot when the key is on.There no drain on anything, i don't use aresisitor in line & everything works out simple & easy!!
jimV

[Model A Vette]

I believe the correct way to wire a three wire GM internally regulated alt is as follows:

Big (10 or 8 ga) wire from battery to the large stud (pretty obvious)
Small (16 ga) wire from above stud to terminal farthest from stud
Small (16 ga) wire from other terminal to ign switch terminal that is on when car is running