I finished this T up a few weeks back

[gowjobs]

http://graveyard.realmofshadows.net/mistaya/rodstuff/bigredrat8.jpg
http://graveyard.realmofshadows.net/mistaya/rodstuff/bigredrat10.jpg
http://graveyard.realmofshadows.net/mistaya/rodstuff/bigredrat7.jpg
http://graveyard.realmofshadows.net/mistaya/rodstuff/bigredrat11.jpg

Took these pics this morning and thought I'd share. Yeah, it's a scale model, but they'd fool a lot of people.

[Nick32vic]

Holy cow. I think i remember you doing that once before, i you posted a pic and i thought it was real then you said it was a model. Well this time im like "ok self, this may be a model, be on the lookout" so i started looking and im like "damn, its actually real" then i read the bottom. lol

nice job.

Nick

[famous59]

fooled me, good job

[InjectorTim]

I'm speechless, I thought it was real! You are goooood!

[SamIyam]

Bitchen!

The thing that tipped me off is the tires... they stay round where they touch the ground... if you "flattened" them, it would look more realistic...

But BRAVO on the rest! That must have been a lot of work!

Can we get a pic of it next to you?? For perspective...
Sam.

[gowjobs]

Ask, and ye shall receive:

Well, how bout my ol' pit bull/akita mix instead of my ugly mug?

[G Griffin]

Wow.
G.

[Mojo]

Good grief, that's SWEET. Nice stance, great detail. Is that the Lindberg T? Does normal weathering techniques work for 1/8th scale? I've got some ideas for the Big Deuce like that, i'm thinking of starting it soon, and i'd like to waether it a good bit. Very sweet model...

[gowjobs]

Normal weathering works great in 1/8 scale.

Most of the little rock chips were done by painting my "oxidized steel" mixtures on the part first. I then added moistened salt (table salt for small chips and sea salt for bigger flakes) to the parts and let it dry before painting the piece with the "paint" color. The salt rubs off easily, leaving little pieces of rusty metal showing underneath. For larger peeling paint effects like my brake backing plates, I used rubber cement applied by dabbing with a green kitchen scrub pad, and removed it after the cover layer of paint was dry by tapping it with masking tape to pull it free.

Washes and dry-brushing work just fine. I actually plan to weather it out a bit more, add a few more wires leading to the lights and starter, and add a coolant-soaked rag tied off around a leaking upper radiator hose, so I'll have to add some spray on the engine and some pools of rusty coolant in the depressions in the intake on that old Y-block.

To answer the first part of your question:
Yes, it IS the Lindberg T. I made a mold off the Deuce shell, and cast a couple in resin so I could section this one. In case anybody is interested, I made the weld beads by masking off either side of the weld, leaving less than 1/16" between them, then I applied a tiny little roll of filler to the seam. I used the end of a 3/64" round rod to make the "stack of dimes" look to the bead, then peeled the masking tape away. After the filler cured, a couple of passes with 400 grit took off the high points and paint did the rest of the effect.

[Nads]

That's amazing. You are a talented fuck.

[TheRev]

DAM...ya had me until Sam pointed out the "over inflated" tires!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
NICE!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[whodaky]

Nice model Gowjobs. great use of stuff from the old Lindeberg kit and the new issue of the Big Duece. I never really liked the Lindeberg T body. But the style in which you have built your T lends it so well to that body! Geoff aka Whodaky

[fab32]

FANTASTIC !!!! I want one in 1:1 scale. Thanks for posting it, you could fool just about anyone with those photos.

Frank

[cornfieldrodder]

Do those tyres come with the Lindberg kit?! The "finger grips" are a great detail. That thing looks really good. For welds, Have you ever tried "welding" a styrene rod with a Dremel tool into a groove. It gives a great looking bead and even can hold parts together with a bit of practice.

[Foul]

That's incredible, man. Could you fill us untalented folk in on how to cast resin? I may consider doing that soon for a non-automotive project.
dan

[laverda]

Ha! Great job ... until I read the last line I was completely fooled. Keep up the good work.

Later,
papa al

[Anderson]

Seen it once, love seeing it again. Awesome work!

[Mai Ki-Ki]

Had me fooled......man thats fucking brilliant.

=]

[The37Kid]

Nice work! Guess I don't have to warn you about the front brake hoses rubbing on the tie rod afterall.

[mikes51]

Great job! That's the most realistic model I've ever seen.

[SanDiegoJoe]

how does it run in the highway?


- looks super realistic

[gowjobs]

Smooth-On makes some good stuff for somebody who hasn't done much resin casting, and sells it in kit form (resin and hardener) in several different quantities. The resin is cheap - it's the silicon to make the molds that's expensive.

Last year, Fine Scale Modeller or Scale Auto magazine (both from Kalmbach Publishing) had a really good article that showed prepping the item to be molded and the process of making a multi-part mold in a step-by-step format. One of the ideas that I liked was the use of Legos to make a box to contain the silicon mold. The mold-making process is much more involved than the resin-pouring process.

To help eliminate bubbles in the resin as it hardens, it will help if you have access to a vacuum chamber to help the air escape from the mixed resin. Whether or not you can vacuum the wet resin mixture before you pour it, it'll also help to eliminate bubbles and voids if you can fill the mold (actually, over-fill it a little to make sure the mold is completely full) and then place it in a pressurized chamber while it cures. A painter's pot hooked up to your air compressor with a pressure gauge and ball-valve to regulate it will go a long way if the mold is small enough to fit in there. Experiment with pressure. Some molds like more (up to 80psi) and some only need 20psi or so.

Hope this gives you a few ideas. I have a buddy who casts and sells model car bodies as a side-business. He's been kicking around the idea of holding a three-day seminar on how to cast in resin - he figures it'd take that long to make sure every participant has a chance to perform the whole process, from start to finish and learn all the tricks he's come up with in the last fifteen years of doing this stuff.

The wheels, tires, salt-flat discs, indian blanket and most of the rear suspension came out of the Revell-Monogram 1/8 "Big Deuce" kit just recently re-issued. The deuce is my next project... a deep channel, flathead powered with magnesium Americans and white wall slicks. I'm thinking that one will be lime gold metalflake.

Dave

[bigron]

that's pretty neat!

[Winfab]

Your model is so realistic I was fooled. Great job!

I haven't built a model, with the exception of helping my son, for almost 40 years. I still have quite a few of my models including the Monogram "Big T" that I built back when I was about 13 or 14. I've always thought it would be fun to rebuild it. Some of the parts are falling apart. Any suggestions for an old novice that would help with disassembly to some extent to enable a rebuild?

Thanks for posting your pictures.

[deuceguy]

Ya had me too! Very nice.

[FoMoCo_MoFo]

FOOLED AGAIN!

[BARNETT]

You are SICK! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[stan292]

Damn nice! I gotta admit, you faked me out bigtime.

I've done a good bit of modeling (although it's been several years back), and this is the first time ever that I recall being totally fooled. Even looking back through the shots after you "fessed up", it was hard to convince myself it wasn't real.

Great fun, and very cool. Thanks for sharing.

P.S. You must have some other neat stuff. How about showing it too?

[Antibilly]

thats fucking on hit man......IM FOOLED BIG TIME!!! hahahah

wanta sell it? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Peter Pan of Chicago]

Beautiful model, man! I love it.

You're one hell of a modeler. Like the others, I thought..."Well, he finally got a project car done."...Lo and behold...........Sweet!


Joel http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

[gowjobs]

Thanks for the kind words guys. I've been really busy in the last few months, and this is the only one I've finished lately. I say, "only," but this was a pretty intensive project compared to most of the ones I've built lately. I try to limit the number of full-detail builds I do a year to one or two, and this being a big 1/8 scale job, everything just took that much more work.

This one isn't for sale - my buddy has already made me promise to sell it to him if I ever get rid of it. For the next few months, I plan to take it to a few contests/shows... maybe next year.

As far as dis-assembling a model, there are several different methods, and I use them in combination. If there's anything that comes of easily, just carefully remove it. Freezing the model helps to loosen glue joints. To loosen stubborn joints, you can dip the assembly in water, and then freeze it - the water expands in the joints and will often pop things loose. This is usually enough if tube glue was used to assemble the model. If liquid cement was used, or there are unusually stubborn tube glue joints, you can apply liquid cement to the joint to soften the bond. If the model was painted with enamels or acrylics, the best thing to use to strip the paint off that I've found is Castrol Super Clean concentrate. Pour the CSC in a tupperware container and let the parts soak. CSC will strip chrome in minutes, and enamel paint and/or the clear paint under the chrome within an hour or two. Scrub the parts and rince them well after the soak. This stuff is extremely damaging to flesh - USE GLOVES and rinse withing a minute or two if you get any on you. Another popular stripper is 91% rubbing alcohol, available at the local drugstore.

I hope some of the info I've posted can help somebody, and if anybody has anything to add, please do. I'm the first guy to admit that I don't know every trick.

Dave

[flatoz]

Now build the real thing! two thumbs up http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[HotRod60F100]

Daaamn man i thought it was real but the tires like many on here say were different i was like hmm somthings not right about this cars tires yer slick man killer job on the 'model' http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[Winfab]

gowjobs....thanks for the dis-assembly tips!