who's had good luck with "rust fixin" paints and chemicals?

[SwitchBlade327]

This old truck has plenty of solid metal left, but it's got lots of pits in it, and I'm hardcore Anti-sandblasting sinless it's area i just can work out by hand/grinder/sander.
I've used por15 before, didn't care too much for it, the shit peeled up on half the car even after i used the "metal ready" on the clean metal. and it was expensive as shit. Had people tell me to try "rust converter" that you buy at wal-mart, and others have to told me to try "rust buster" from the tractor supply, but i've yet to try them. I'm gonna use whatever sounds to be the best from you guys.
I wanna hear you what you guys have used, how it turned out, and how long it has or did hold up...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/EVERYlosersHERO/Car%20Pics/eecdfbc8.jpg

[Petejoe]

There's been alot of past posts on rust treatment. Do a search. My experience is... after removing the rust with all the tools you can muster. Use Picklex, it is a rust neutralizer with great results. After that prime with an etch primer. Epoxy primers are good for this.

[Dirk35]

Ya, do a search. The rust converter is not a substutite for cleaning a part of major rust.

We have had good luck on the tractors with Mar-hyde brand Rust converter. Smells like rotten eggs, goes on white, water soluable, turns purplish with no rust, and deep black with rust. Shit is hard as hell when it cures though (which is a good thing). Hard to get smooth though. Youll need to prep it first, which it looks like you have started already.

You probably already know this. But, you do know you have to take the thing completly apart, right? It looks like you have sanded it some. If you try to spray that thing with out taking it aprt, the rust converter will not get in the seams, and it will just come right back, but in the bad areas, like where its bolted together.

[Morrisman]

Just curious, but what is it about sandblasting that you dislike so much? I've never had any done myself, though I am busy building a sandblasting cabinet, so I'm wondering what I can fuck up with it on my car.

I tried a 'rust convertor' called Kurust (In England), on my wheels. Wire brushed the the shit outta them first, coated them with Kurust, painted gloss black over that, and a year later they are rusting through again and they've not been out on the road yet

[moondisc]

I use this shit called Rust Convertor from Walmart.
$3.96 a spray can.
Wire brush, spray it on, wait 24 hours, prime & paint.
Never used it on outside body panels, but I've used it on frames, floors, inner fenders etc with good results.
I'm anti sandblasting too. Warping metal isn't a problem 'cause I know what I'm doing, but it hardens the metal, and the sand gets into places you can never get it out of.
But with that much surface rust, it might be a nessesary evil.

[SwitchBlade327]

I did a search before I posted this and found one, but it was mostly just info on the different stuff, not really any stories of how well things worked. Plus I have shitty luck with the search feature.
The first thing I hate about sandblasting is the mess....nothign feels quite like having sand in your ass crack adn chafing your balls....
secondly, warping this shit out of the sheetmetal, it's bad enough without fucking it up any worse. If we had a blasting cabinent, I'd defintely do the smaller parts in it since a cabinent cuts the mess out.
All, the really bad rust will be cut out, I'm just trying to sand and grind as much of the surface rust off as possible, which is working pretty good so far, but theres always the little shit down in the pits.
I was thinking about trying Zero Rust, but don't know a whole lot about it. Heard some good things about Eastwoods stuff, but Zero Rust price is alot friendlier.
Of course I'm gonna blow the truck apart and de-rust everything..... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I'm just stripping what I can with it together so it doesnt' clutter up the shop so bad since I have to share it with alot of other people. After all the big areas are done it's gonna start being tore down.

I'm not trying to have a "pretty" or show quality truck here, just a mean lookin' shop truck. It'll be left a little rough around the edges, but no damn rust will be left on it!

[slazzen]

media blasting is the way to go you need to take it completely apart I am taking my roadster today $100 to do the whole thing and be ready to prime it when you get it home

[SwitchBlade327]

theres no one aorund here that does that kinda stuff. That'll be one of the things I try to do when I build my shop though....i just hate the sand....

[lesabre59]

I used Mar-Hyde on my 59 and it worked fine, JC Whitney used to sell it along with most auto paint stores

Used a product called Rust Bullet on the A, 2 coats and its hard a concrete, then i shot urethane prime and painted, seems to be working jus fine so far. This stuff uses 2 coats...one to neutralize and the second to fill pitting, i was impressed but then again i'm for anything that involves less sanding

[FONZI]

Are they close?

http://208.56.73.207/

FinishMakers
305 Executive Park Drive
Concord, North Carolina 28285
704-78-BLAST
info@finishmakers.com

You don't want sand blasting you want plastic media blasting
Just had my chevy done here in california.

FONZI

[Slag Kustom]

nothing works as good as sand blasting or some kind of media blasting. any rust left in the pits will come back no matter what you use.any one that has done sandblasting hates the mess and the clean up. i send all my stuff out and just pay some one. the time you spend trying to clean the metal with wire brush and grinder and drills will never be as good as blasting or acid dipping it.



a friend of mine did a car with rust mort then i did all the body work and paint and 3 years later the tiny pits bubbled up.

[luckystiff]

yeah that place is reasonably close by. justin do yourself a big favor and just take it to someone and let them media(not sand) blast the whole thing. money tight? break it down take just the cab in and get it done. you should be able to get the cab in a pickup bed. get the cab straight and then take the whole front clip in. you get where i'm going here. there's several places in the charlotte area that do media blasting. do your homework call around be sure to find someone that is experienced with doing cars and you shouldn't have to worry with warpage. media blasting is alot easier on the metal itself than sand. you'll be surprised how cheap it is. you'd spend as much or more money in disc and paper grinding sanding that shit away as you would to have it done. and it'd put you weeks ahead of time. you don't have to prep the metal before primer but it's not a bad idea in this humid ass state we live in. i stripped the plymouth the old fashion way(da) it took several weeks of what time i have of a few hours here a few there. charlotte was a bit of a haul for me but if i had it to do over again i'd take it somewhere. sorry i haven't called you back it's been a busy week. i've worked til 11 2 nights this week and all the Howlers are coming down for the br549 show this weekend and i have an estate auction to go to tommorrow. i'll try and get up with you the end of the week...ken....

[chopolds]

What we here call 'media' blasting will not remove rust! It is a plastic pellet, and it is not agressive enough to get rust out. It will remove paint and bondo. Rust requires glass bead, glass slag (Black Beauty), alum. oxide, or sand. Sand is the cheapest. The other materials are too expensive to blast outside, and not many places have indoor recycling booths that do anything other than media, here. I do my cars with sand, in my backyard, and they work out fine. The older cars have thick enough steel, and enough compound curves to resist warping, but take it easy anyway!
Another alternative is chemical rust removal. Oxysolve, Rust Remover, 'Safestrustremover', or Dupont metal prep, even vinegar will do it. Just be prepared to wait a LONG time, and do lots of scrubbing with the chemicals and a wire brush!