Nutserts, tire balancing questions

[392_hemi]

I channeled the body on my '34 pickup and made up some mounts. Can somebody tell me how to put the nutserts into the fully boxed frame? Is it ok to MiG these in? Also, I want to run Moon discs but don't know how they'll mount with the wheel weights being in the way. Does anyone know how to get around this?

[NealinCA]

I have the same question on the nutserts. I need to put some in a boxed area also.

Your tire shop should be able to balance with all of the weights on the inside. I have always requested that and not had a problem.

I would like to see more pics of your project, the chassis looks well thought out. What kind of bed are you going to run?

Neal

[tommy]

The trade name "Nut serts" came with a tool. The correct size hole is drilled in the frame. The nut sert screws onto the tool. Place it in the hole and the tool tightens the nut sert expanding it inside the frame. Same theory as a pop rivit or a threaded drywall anchor. Unscrew the tool to leave the threaded nut sert locked in place.

You can mount the Moon discs to beauty rings and they will work just like a hub cap or you can "static" balance the rims just like mags with the weights only on the inside.

[392_hemi]

Thanks for the information guys. I didn't know "nutserts" was a brand name. But I'll check them out. What I was planning to do is weld some grade-8 nuts into the frame to bolt the body down. I know that's a common practice, but I've never seen it done. Regarding the truck, I'll try to post some photos when I get a chance, but here's some info. It's a Roadster Shop chassis with a 6" kick up in the rear, a Model A front crossmember, and lowered radiator mounts. The body is chopped 3" (I may take out another inch or so) and channeled 6". I'm going to run a '53 Mercury with '39 3-speed and '40 rear end (I actually found one with a factory 3.55 ratio). For the rear end, I cut down the '40 torque tube, drive shaft and radius rods. The radius rod mount was moved way back on the torque tube. The rear has the orignal '40 Ford spring and modified '37 tube shock mounts. The front end has a Chassis Engineering axle with a Posies spring (it's a slider but not the kind with the button insterts) and split '40 wishbone mounted to the frame rails. Wheels and brakes are '40 Ford all around with 7.50x16s rear and 6.00 x 16s front. I'm building a new bed from Mac Hills panels (I have to make up my own frame for the bed as that's going to be channeled as well). This photo is a bit dated, so I'll try to put up something more recent, and maybe even do some tech articles.

[NealinCA]

[ QUOTE ]
I'm building a new bed from Mac Hills panels (I have to make up my own frame for the bed as that's going to be channeled as well). This photo is a bit dated, so I'll try to put up something more recent, and maybe even do some tech articles.

[/ QUOTE ]

I would like to see more. I am using original bed sides on my 32 project, but am building a new subframe. Mine isn't channeled, so I only raised my floor 2 inches for gas tank and rearend clearance.

Keep us posted.

Neal

[Digger_Dave]

[ QUOTE ]
The trade name "Nut serts" came with a tool. The correct size hole is drilled in the frame. The nut sert screws onto the tool. Place it in the hole and the tool tightens the nut sert expanding it inside the frame. Same theory as a pop rivit or a threaded drywall anchor. Unscrew the tool to leave the threaded nut sert locked in place.


[/ QUOTE ]

Just a caution, my boxed frame came with "Nutserts" for the body bolts. When the body and frame was being trailered back to my place, the driver had to make a sudden stop.
The body bolts weren't cinched down tight and the sudden forward shift of the body broke the "Nutserts" free.

Have now drilled them out and welded nuts in their place.

[InPrimer]

I used a lot of nutserts on the body where the fenders bolt on(its a 37 GLASS car) I wouldnt recommend using them on a frame because they are aluminum and really can't take the stress .IMO. what i would do is take some nuts that have a shoulder or a built in washer on them Drill a hole in the frame the proper size then chamfer the hole so the nut/flange countersinks in the hole and give it two zaps with the MIG. the bults will not pull out when welded as opposed to be rivited in. Hope that makes sense.

[392_hemi]

I looked at nutserts and agree those aren't going to do the job. So what I want to do is weld some grade 8 nuts into the frame. From what I can tell, the way to do this is: 1) mark the location with a transfer puch, 2) drill a hole just big enough for the nut, 3) insert the nut, 4) mig weld the open spots (the gaps between nut and the hole), and 5) grind it smooth. Anyone have comments or suggestions before I start drilling holes in my frame? Thanks.

[fab32]

When you get the nuts to weld in the frame ask for flanged nuts. They have a flange sort of like a washer already forged on the nut, The flange makes it super nice to weld to instead of concentrating all of the heat on the nut proper. This sometimes causes the threads to distort and lock the bolt in place before it's tightened.

Frank

[fab32]

When you get the nuts to weld in the frame ask for flanged nuts. They have a flange sort of like a washer already forged on the nut, The flange makes it super nice to weld to instead of concentrating all of the heat on the nut proper. This sometimes causes the threads to distort and lock the bolt in place before it's tightened or at least strips the threads off the bolt.

Frank

[fab32]

I could repeat that if you like. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Frank

[392_hemi]

The flanged nuts seem like a good idea. But without the flats, there's no gap for filler. Will a mig weld on the flange nuts be strong enough?

[tommy]

Don't use plated nuts. The plating just burns off and makes a mess in the threads. I use a bolt in the nut for a handle and to keep sparks out of the threads. You'll probably clean the threads with a tap anyway.

[Digger_Dave]

[ QUOTE ]
I looked at nutserts and agree those aren't going to do the job. So what I want to do is weld some grade 8 nuts into the frame. From what I can tell, the way to do this is: 1) mark the location with a transfer puch, 2) drill a hole just big enough for the nut, 3) insert the nut, 4) mig weld the open spots (the gaps between nut and the hole), and 5) grind it smooth. Anyone have comments or suggestions before I start drilling holes in my frame? Thanks.

[/ QUOTE ]

That's exactly how I did it, but I also made a shallow counter sink of the hole(s) before welding the nut(s) in place. (a little more area to weld to)

I had discussed with a couple of guys about using long bolts and "crush tubes" (tube with inner dia the same as the bolts) that went from the top to the bottom of the frame rail welded solidly in place. Then the bolts would pass completely thru with washers and nuts on the bottom.

But settled on the welded nut solution.

[Digger_Dave]

[ QUOTE ]
I use a bolt in the nut for a handle and to keep sparks out of the threads. You'll probably clean the threads with a tap anyway.

[/ QUOTE ]

I went one step further. Used a scrap "U" shaped piece with a hole in the center of the top, a piece of threaded rod, the nut to be welded on one end, the U piece sandwiched between two more nuts further up the threaded rod. The "jig" allowed up and down adjustment of the nut to be welded in the hole on the frame. (Helps "shakey" folks like me!)

[392_hemi]

Sounds like a good idea to me. Thanks again for the info.